chrisprice12

Yes server 2019. I'll look into that - I didn't realise there was another way of doing it. Yeah so I ended up purchasing an LSI 9271-8i which I found cheap. Dedicated RAID card with 1gb cache. Optional BBU to add however, so as soon as my budget comes in, I'll grab one of those straight away. 
 
My Windows doesn't crash much, just my poor attempt at a joke.
 
I did take a look at Storage Spaces, however setting up a RAID 10 didn't seem to be an easy task. Thanks for your help on this!

Try a different video connector on it. Just saying, you don't need to capitalise it every time. 

Hey,
 
I'm looking at creating a RAID array however I've never had any experience with this before. I'm looking at creating a RAID 10 as I will primarily be video editing -- don't worry, I have an SSD for a scratch disk, I would just like a RAID array so if I ever have to pull footage in the future and work with it, I'm not copying it back to my SSD then deleting it when I'm done.
 
What's your advice?
 
What's the point of a RAID controller - is it worth getting a RAID controller even if my mobo supports the RAID type I want to build?
 
How do you do it, and what are some things to look out for?
 
Thanks for everyone's help, I'd rather not lose any data haha.
 
Chris

Well, onboard RAID isn't bad, but hardware RAID is better. It's not so much knowing what you're doing, but setting something up that fits your needs / budget.
 
Yeah, RAID levels (Except a few RAID levels, 5 or 6 I think, the rest aren't expandable..but you have to look at the manual for your specific model to see what RAID levels are supported).
 
The battery back up is for the whole PC. You plug your PC into the battery back up. When the power goes out, it powers the PC (Until the battery gets close to running out). Then, it'll use a USB trigger to tell your PC to turn off safely. I recommend APC UPS units for this, though pick a decent mid range model and not the really cheap models (The idea of you get what you pay for applies).
 
Unless you were talking about the battery back up for a RAID card. This one protects just the RAID card from power loss within the PC, for example, PSU failure or your PC locking up, forcing you to do a force shutdown by holding down the power button. It just allows the RAID card to complete what operations it needs to / store what's on the RAID card's RAM while it waits for power to come back.

that´s normally the inlet to prevent splashing. 

Well, if there is only one port at the top, it can only be used as a filling port, otherwise you're going to have a hard time filling the reservoir. 
 
You can use any of the ports on the bottom of the res as inlet and outlet. Just pick whichever is in the best/easiest position for how you tubing runs. 

If you hadn't realised, this *is* for people that don't know what they're doing. I created this to help people learn, otherwise how are they meant to? Your post made no impact and just shows you don't know about the subject either. Keep it relevant or don't post.

If you hadn't realised, this *is* for people that don't know what they're doing. I created this to help people learn, otherwise how are they meant to? Your post made no impact and just shows you don't know about the subject either. Keep it relevant or don't post.

The modding thread is excellent. I'll add my own two cents, but feel free to ignore.

From an electrical standpoint, taking apart a PSU is relatively simple, if you have knowledge of taking apart electronics. Just remember this is more of an electrical item, and less of an electronic item. Since 120 volts go in and only 12 volts come out, there's a lot of power transformation happening inside the unit. This means you need to take some safety precautions that go beyond basic anti-static grounding. 

The first bit of safety is making sure you give ample time for all of the capacitors inside the power supply to drain so there is no electrical current left inside the unit when you take it apart. Otherwise, you risk discharging large amounts of voltage into your body if you touch anything (some capacitors can hold massive charges, and can actually kill you). With that in mind, my paranoid self would allow the PSU to rest, unplugged and disconnected from anything else, for at least 24-48 hours before taking it apart. Also, since this is a very sensitive piece of equipment, I'd recommend taking pictures every step of the way so you have a reference to help you put it back together safely. If you ever get to a point where you're uncertain of what you're doing, STOP WHAT YOU ARE DOING and contact the manufacturer for a repair manual (if they even have one). 
 
As far as what kind of paint to use, I'd recommend using something nonconductive (obviously), and be extra careful to use several light coats and allow extra time between them for drying so that there is no moisture remaining when you put it back together. And, of course, allow a few days for the paint to cure before you reassemble. This isn't like painting a case component; you need to allow plenty of time for it to dry and cure. It should go without saying, but make sure no paint gets on the inside of the PSU casing. I also would not recommend painting the fan grille, as you'll want this bare later so you can clip your anti-static strap to it for grounding while reassembling your PC (remember, plugged in but turned off is good for grounding).


 

I have a generalized guide here on PSU Painting, but as others have advised you must be very careful when opening a PSU. The regular safety stuff with unplugging the PSU and pressing the power button on the case a few time before letting it sit 30 min-1 hour before opening and being aware of the contacts of a capacitors when taking it all apart.
http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/407754-modding-faq-common-mods/

I'd invest in a debur tool to make the ends of the tubes smooth and clean. I personally find doing bends free handed is much easier to do then making jigs and doing it that way. For me it's a lot easier to get the bends straight by doing it free handed as well.

using the moles puts 12-volts to the pump and the smaller connector to a
motherboard header will allow speed control and RPM monitoring.

i found this:
 


as explained, the molex is power and the smaller header connection is speed
control. if the smaller is not connected, the pump will run 100%

Yup, but if your unsure I would run on molex power alone and see if it will run.

I believe the 4 pin is for 12v power and the PWM signal, I checked the pinouts and the molex is for power and ground. I'm assuming you need to connect both. The inlet is at the centre front of the pump and the outlet is at the edge/top of the pump. 

Well in all fairness, its not supposed to be a good performance per dollar machine

Just get a 240mm rad template from MNPCTech.com, drill, cut and then mount your rad as desired. I mounted a 360mm rad to the roof of my 500R and a 240mm rad to the front of it.

Good idea

Thats why you need Amazon Prime

Sigh. The 4790k turbos to 4.4. 99%+ cards can do 4.8 or higher on 1.3 V or lower. 5.0 is cool, depending on your cooling almost every card can reach it.
Anyways enjoy the rest of the comments.
4790k at 4.8 is known to outperform 5820k at 4.5 and be competitive with 5960x at 4.5 on dx11 games.

1. The amount of voltage going into the chip
2. The amount of voltage going into the CPU cores
3. When you're overclocking other integrated components, such as the memory controller (not recommended)
4. When you want to get a higher clock speed on your CPU (you'll almost always increase this, and usually only this)
5. It depends on your cooling, what clocks you're aiming for, and just how well your CPU takes to higher clocks and voltages
6. Somewhere between 1.3-1.4V. The lower the better.
7. Unsure. I don't recommend modifying it at all.
8. Don't aim for 5 GHz. But you'll be increasing both your core voltage and your multiplier. Nothing else should need to be changed.
9. My 4770K achieved 4.3 GHz on 1.3V. My 5820K achieved 4.5 GHz on 1.35V.
10. Overclocking Intel K-series processors is really easy, especially with adequate cooling! You may also want to disable Turbo Boost or ensure that the cores are all synchronised at the same clock. Turbo Boost can cause lower real-world clock speeds on many motherboards while all cores are active.
 
Oh, and check out AnandTech's 4790K overclocking!

A 5.0Ghz OC is very unlikely on a Haswell Chip and most people will only achieve between a 4.4 to a 4.7Ghz OC stable. I'd keep your CPU Core Voltage below 1.35v personally and up the multiplier from 40 to 44 and then go through the Stress Test, Measure Temperatures, Increase Multiplier by 01 then repeat until you're hitting temperatures you are unhappy with.
 
I personally won the Silicon lottery and keep my i7-4790k at 5.0Ghz @ 1.325v @ 40C Idle / 75C Load. But this is a very anomalous result.

I have to disagree sadly, both rad thickness and fin density barely does much of a difference compared to , quality of welds, pipe diameter and air flow being pushed thru. Sure if you can fit a thicker/denser rad go ahead. But dont worry bout it too much. Silencio fans are good, but again dont worry bout it, there loads of good rad fans, save that for another topic though. 

Depends on how fast the fan is running and they actual perform fairly decently. Te H75 and H80i are both very good coolers. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion though

I have the Earth-watts 520W and it is great. I'd recommend the brand, but at least the 420W.