Kyle_N

Windows 8/10 Pro has a built in feature to do this. If the USB stick meets all requirements (min 64GB, USB 3.0, and maybe something else), you can get Windows 10 Pro (it's free, but will have watermark if you don't have a license) and then use the built-in Windows To Go app to create a bootable USB. It will set up BitLocker To Go on the USB stick as well, so it will be encrypted - you'll need to enter a password to boot the USB. Other than that, it works just like a normal Windows installation. You won't need to worry about activation, Windows 10 doesn't technically require it at all. You might get a watermark if the PC you use it on has never had a valid license, not 100% sure about that though.

You can see there's quite a few threads on the Plex forums about this here: https://forums.plex.tv/categories/xbox-one Someone from Plex responded yesterday and they're saying they're working with Microsoft on it. A few other people are also reporting that a recent Plex server update (April 30) fixes it... I am going to go test that in a few minutes. I'll let you know if it works any better for me.

Plex app for Xbox has been broken for about three months now. It will just constantly buffer, no matter what you try to play. They haven't said when it'll be fixed - there's been a few updates, but a ton of people are still getting this issue. As a workaround, you can enable the DLNA server on your Plex server, and then use the Xbox Media Player app to access your Plex DLNA server. That will let you direct play anything without buffering, although it will never transcode (so your videos must be a format supported by the Xbox).

Are there any Bluetooth transmitters that have the extra ring connector for the mic channel? I can't seem to find any at all - there are plenty of 3-pole transmitters (albeit most are just rebrands) and a few 4-pole receivers (just the Creative SoundBlaster ones), but no 4-pole transmitters. Just something like this https://www.aukey.com/products/2-in-1-wireless-transmitter-and-receiver-br-c19 but with the connector being 4-pole instead of 3-pole. Ideally I'd want the headset mic connected to the receiver to be used - although a mic on the transmitter itself works too. Alternatively, if this is easy to mod into an existing transmitter, like a mic connector that's just not connected to anything, that'd work too... although I'm doubting that anyone has actually attempted it!

you sure it's not Mic Monitoring being enabled on the system? Guide > Settings > Audio (if you haven't already tried that) The Xbox uses the same headset standards as most modern phones and computers, assuming PS4 as well (if those have headphone jacks, I've never used one personally), so at least in terms of the connector layout, it should be identical. Apple-compatible headsets use the exact same layout, but their mics are way quieter, so you need a gain booster on the mic input (not available on Xbox) or it will be too quiet to be picked up. Sound output will always work fine though. Anyways in your specific case, I'd play around with the settings on the Xbox, as well as if the headset has any, in case its some hidden "feature". Maybe try it on other devices too, if you can, that way you can narrow it down to being the Xbox or the headset.

You'll need the adapter regardless. The HP motherboard in these SFF systems is not a standard connector, so the adapter converts it to a standard connector. If you look for a case, measure the motherboard in your current system. Write down measurements for the board itself, as well as locations of screws. Compare it to the below image. If it matches microATX (the white square), you can use any case that fits microATX system boards. Most cases do. (Picture is taken from a PDF on microATX here: http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/matxspe1.2.pdf) If it's a different size, you'll need to look at close-up pictures of cases (or if you can see them in a store) and check the specifications of the case, where it should list the size of the motherboard it fits. If possible, buy from a store that will allow you to return the case for a refund, in case it doesn't fit.

Those laptops will likely still upgrade (some OEM licenses were sorta extended indefinitely), but the license is still stuck on them - you can't transfer to a device of a different type (laptop vs desktop) and usually you can't transfer OEM licenses. You can use Windows 10 without a key. There is no requirement to insert a key, however you will be stuck with a watermark in the bottom right corner, and the Personalization Settings screen will be disabled (but all the options are still fully available through other apps and registry). Other than that, everything works exactly like an activated version of Windows 10. Updates and everything still work.

If you could find a PSU that fits in the case (you need a SFF one, not a standard ATX), and got the adapter for the motherboard (link to one that should work), you'd be good to go, without changing the case. But I would recommend changing the case anyways. It would give you a much wider selection of both PSUs and graphics cards, and it would make future upgrades much easier. You'll still need the adapter for the board, but you could choose basically any case, any PSU, any graphics card. Just be sure to measure your existing motherboard (including screw placements), and make sure it will fit in the new case, if you decide to do this.

what do you mean by unpartition? If I'm understanding what you're getting at, you don't need to do anything like that. Just back up what you need, and delete the partitions. You don't need to do anything with them, you're literally deleting everything on the drive. It'll be like a brand new drive that's never had anything on it.

When installing Windows (any version, but most important for 8 and 10), you should delete all partitions on the drive you're going to use (it will ask you, and give a list of partitions), so that it only says Unallocated space. Then you would choose that. You are not supposed to use formatted space - delete it first. That is the best way to make sure it sets up properly, especially since 10 uses a different format than 7. You should also go into BIOS setup before installing Windows, and check the following options: Disable Legacy Support (sometimes called CSM or Compatibility Support Module) Enable Secure Boot (load keys, if needed) Enable Fast Boot None of that is technically required, but it will help avoid certain activation and upgrade issues, boots a bit faster, and is more secure. It's just to make sure Windows doesn't install using a legacy method that was replaced six years ago by UEFI, which is the latest standard. Also, you get W10 installation media at https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10/ This will get you a tool that will create a bootable UEFI USB with the latest updated version of Windows. There is no ISO unless you absolutely need a disc, so you don't need anything like rufus.

The entire case is essentially upside down, but it's standard mATX. This is pretty common in pre-built systems, and makes no difference whatsoever. Some people prefer the layout, others don't. While some cases can be flipped either way (like some OriginPC cases), the HP ones do not have this option. You can put any standard mATX board in there. The cooler is standard as well, you can keep it and use on any motherboard with the same/similar CPU socket (probably Intel 115x). It's an AiO cooler, like the Corsair or NZXT ones, but with only a single 80mm radiator. It won't ever leak or open unless you deliberately break it open. I used to have a similar desktop (back when they were called Phoenix), but I did the opposite - switched the case, PSU, and cooler, but kept the motherboard and CPU. It had an Intel i7-3770 at 4.2GHz, and not like CPUs change much between generations, so there was really no reason to upgrade until the board died about five years later.

If you're not dead set on a specific mudpack, you could take a look at Technic. Basically the same thing as FTB, but with different official packs (Tekkit is probably the most famous, Hexxit and Blightfall are cool too), and community packs are sometimes different (although some are available on both platforms). Launcher doesn't require anything besides a normal Minecraft account - none of that twitch or curse stuff. https://www.technicpack.net/ Otherwise I think twitch is now required for a ton of the minecraft community stuff - forum, wiki, Bukkit, and FTB. So you could just go for it if you really want a FTB pack.

The main components that I'd recommend keeping would be the CPU, motherboard, and memory, AFAIK those will be a bit more expensive if purchased separately. A quick check on PC Part Picker shows the CPU alone would be just under $200 new - plus you'd need a board and memory. The parts I would recommend buying right away (assuming you need the discrete graphics) are the graphics card itself (any one of your choice), the PSU, the adapter to make the PSU work, and a case of your choice. Especially with the graphics card, you might be a little over $375, though I don't know what graphics cards are going for now. That will probably be the single most expensive component. PSUs and cases can be found cheap, although it depends on your needs/wants. Some pre-builts might work out a bit cheaper on a really good sale if you can get exactly what you need (minus the graphics card maybe) - but you're unlikely to buy new parts for cheaper. Used, you'd have to look around more of course.

Here is the Service Guide for it - detailed specs, pictures, and instructions for every component: http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c04832374 PSU is a small form factor - not standard ATX. Should be pretty obvious if you compare the back of this PC to any ATX PSU, but just make sure. I am fairly certain the PSU itself is a standard SFF size, but you'd have to measure it to be sure. If not, you might need a case. HOWEVER, it uses a non-standard motherboard power connector. Adapters do exist however, although I don't know how reliable they will be. It would connect between your new PSUs 24-pin ATX motherboard connector and the PWR and PWRCMD connectors on the board, as far as I can tell. Everything else looks to be standard. As others have said, graphics card must be low-profile if you're keeping it in this case. However, you could move everything into a bigger case - which would make this a decent starting point for future upgrades (such as new system board and CPU eventually). I am not sure the size of the system board, but there should be cases that accept it (it should be a standard size, but possibly not a common standard). It looks like micro ATX to me, but might be smaller. That would give you a significantly wider choice of both PSUs and graphics cards. You'll still need an adapter to power the motherboard (as it won't take a 24-pin ATX), but other than that you'll have all standard parts which you can swap and upgrade as you need to.

You could run into some activation issues without Secure Boot. Your license will be safe, but there is a chance it might not be detected if you disable UEFI mode. I'm pretty sure it will be fine though, if you already have Windows 10 activated. Even if it doesn't read the OEM key off the board (which I don't think it does without UEFI), it should still be able to verify your board against MS servers and see it was previously activated - Windows 10 activation will always prefer that, over the local key. The only thing is, you'll need to manually choose your edition of Windows when you go to install (it won't auto-detect it), and it will ask you for a key (you can choose I don't have a product key, at the bottom). Before you do that, uou should go into Settings > Update & Security > Activation > make sure Windows 10 is activated with a digital license linked to your Microsoft Account. If it's not, add an account, just to be safe. Although, are you absolutely sure you need legacy mode? I would think that any modern hardware (2012-present) would support UEFI properly. Especially if the system originally shipped with Windows 8 - it should 100% support UEFI. But yes, if UEFI is disabled in your BIOS, it will set up as MBR, assuming you are using a totally blank drive (no partitions, just unallocated space). That will disable all UEFI features, including Secure Boot and Fast Boot.