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Cakefish

Member
  • Content Count

    188
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About Cakefish

  • Title
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    UK

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7-6700K
  • Motherboard
    Asus Z170 Pro Gaming
  • RAM
    16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000MHz
  • GPU
    Palit NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Super Jetstream
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define S
  • Storage
    Samsung SM951 512GB, Samsung 850 Pro 1TB, Samsung 840 Pro 512GB
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 650W P2
  • Display(s)
    Acer XB271HU 2560x1440 165Hz G-Sync monitor
  • Cooling
    Noctua NH-DH15 CPU Cooler
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G810 Orion Spectrum RGB Keyboard
  • Mouse
    Logitech G703 Wireless Gaming Mouse
  • Sound
    Samsung HW-J250 80W 2.2Ch Soundbar
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

693 profile views
  1. Yes, I have been charged for my 2080 Ti pre-order as I used debit card. I have no regrets though as I can cancel anytime and get a full refund if the benchmarks and reviews disappoint. I am lucky enough to have enough saved up over many years to be able to have this large amount of money on hold. Not everyone is so fortunate, obviously, but for those that do it's not really a problem as long as you live in a country that has robust consumer protection laws to ensure you can cancel the pre-order and return the item for a full refund.
  2. These benchmarks show that Titan X Pascal is consistently about 60-70% faster than Titan X Maxwell at 3440x1440. Looking at raw specifications of 2080 Ti I think a 30-60% improvement is definitely feasible over Titan X Pascal at such a high resolution. So potentially 2080 Ti being double as fast as Titan X Maxwell at 3440x1440. We'll see when the benchmarks and reviews are released!
  3. I think OP should easily fit all of my suggestions into a $700 budget. I can easily find a GTX 1070 Ti, 2x4GB Corsair 2133MHz DDR4 RAM sticks and a Crucial MX500 500GB 2.5" SATA SSD for £594.12 here in UK. Minus 20% from that to cancel out the effect of my country's very high VAT rate and you get £475.29 - that's only US$612.32. I really do think that the slow 800MHz single-channel memory will be holding the CPU back, RAM might seem a boring purchase but I wouldn't ignore the need to upgrade it forever. RAM setup can have a surprisingly big impact on overall gaming performance these days. Also, I definitely recommend an SSD. Makes a night and day difference to... just about everything.
  4. Wait for benchmarks is my advice. 2070 has 75% more memory bandwidth than 1070 - this has the potential to make a massive difference in performance at high resolutions such as 1440p (less so at 1080p though).
  5. Get 2x4GB DDR4 RAM sticks (for a total of 8GB). Don't bother with the more expensive faster RAM sticks (unless the price difference is minimal), go for basic 2x2133MHz DDR4 sticks. The important thing is that you buy dual-channel DDR4 memory. This will improve your CPU performance a lot. Your CPU is currently being bottle-necked by your slow DDR2-era single-channel system memory. Here are benchmarks to demonstrate the large difference in performance that dual-channel RAM makes vs single-channel RAM for modern gaming. There is no need to upgrade your CPU for Fortnite. It is still plenty powerful enough to play Fortnite at high fps as can be seen in these CPU benchmarks (look at the framerates that the Pentium G4560 can get - your i5-6400 is a bit faster than that). However note that these benchmarks were run using fast DDR4 dual-channel system memory so that's why I recommend you upgrade your system RAM to DDR4 dual-channel. With the leftover budget aim for an NVIDIA GTX 1070 or GTX 1070 Ti (whatever your budget can stretch to). Those cards will play Fortnite at 100fps+ at high quality settings as you can see here: Fortnite benchmarks.
  6. My Palit Super JetStream has served me well for over two years now.
  7. If you live in UK you have the right to cancel 14 days from date of delivery regardless of which retailer you buy from - it's the law. Reviews and benchmarks will undoubtedly be out by then. So I agree. I preordered but will cancel if benchmarks fail to impress.
  8. I have bought LED bias lights but am wondering if it'll overload the USB 3.0 ports on my monitor. They are rated for 2.5-4.5W and the manual asks for a 5V/1A USB port. Does USB 3.0 comply with this level of power output?
  9. The third AOC AG271QG I've tried (the two that I already returned had similar levels of backlight bleed) is on the left side, the first Acer XB271HU I've tried is on the right side: Black screen, 50% monitor brightness, moderate ambient light in room: Video with dark scene, 50% monitor brightness, moderate ambient light in room: Video with dark scene, 50% monitor brightness, darkened room: As you can hopefully see from they photos the backlight bleed isn't as noticeable on the Acer as it is on the AOC. Is the amount of backlight bleed on the Acer as good as I can reasonably expect to get in the IPS panel lottery?
  10. I could order it on Amazon for delivery tomorrow. I could then compare them both side by side and keep the best one. Do you think it's worth trying that?
  11. Thanks for sharing your experience. Such a shame that the Acer has by far the largest, bulky and most cumbersome stand of them all. What were they thinking when they designed that monstrosity?
  12. This is my third AOC AG271QG (27" IPS 165Hz 1440p G-SYNC) monitor. Backlight bleed strikes again! The first two were from February 2018, this latest one is from March 2018. Different retailers each time. At least this latest time around I paid only £549 instead of £630 like the first two times. At this point it's clear that they are all like this with only very minor variances between them. So not sure what to do now. The ASUS PG279Q, Viewsonic XG2703-GS and Acer XB271HU all have deeper stands than this AOC (which already feels a bit cramped on my small desk), are more expensive in the case of the first two and from my online research they all have this same backlight bleeding issue anyway. Already tried the Dell S2417DG which I also returned because of very bad colour artifacting in darker shades, so I'm ruling out TN. Meanwhile, 27" 16:9 1440p VA options lack G-SYNC and have the same problem where the stands are a bit too deep (Samsung CHG70 and MSI MAG27CQ/MPG27CQ) in addition to their own QC issues regarding ghosting. I feel I've been backed into a corner here with almost no options left. Is there anything I can do to minimise the effect of the bleed such as bias lighting? Does it tend to fade over time like some people have claimed online? Should I try to learn to live with it? Would appreciate any thoughts on what my next course of action should be.
  13. I'm a sucker for punishment... Tried out two AOC AG271QG monitors... both with obvious backlight bleed (one with bonus bright pixels in the centre of the display too). Returned both. Now I have the Dell S2417DG. Minimal backlight bleed (not even in the same league as the AOC monitors) and no dead/bright pixels. However, it has the worst colour banding I've ever seen. To the point where the budget 6 bit TN panel in my work laptop has better IQ despite lower contrast, worse colours and poorer viewing angles - the banding artifacts on this Dell monitor are just that bad. I've tried messing around in the NVIDIA control panel with vibrancy/gamma/dynamic range, using various ICC profiles, tweaking the OSD options, reinstalling the monitor driver... it alleviates the banding very slightly but it's still very apparent. Anyone know of any fixes? I feel I've tried them all after lots of frantic searching online. I intend to return it to the PC store after work tomorrow and have ordered a 3rd(!) AOC AG271QG for collection there tomorrow and plan to do a good ol' swaparoo with the cashier (they'll think I'm a reeal weirdo but oh well). I will cancel the order of the 3rd AOC monitor and keep the Dell if anyone can give me a known fix for the colour banding. I haven't got much hope left in me at this point though. Sick to my stomach of the poor QC among gaming monitors. Thanks in advance.
  14. Sorry, I din't realise that the monitor doesn't have gamma settings in the OSD menu. Go to the NVIDIA control panel. From there select 'Adjust desktop colour settings'. You can then mess with the gamma and contrast until it looks the way you want it to.
  15. Darn it, I really want this to be the one Anyone else got any thoughts? EDIT: In-game image: http://i66.tinypic.com/4rsxn8.jpg The camera does exaggerate slightly but that's with the monitor set to 50% brightness.
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