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STRMfrmXMN

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  1. Funny
    STRMfrmXMN got a reaction from Ben17 in LTT Official Discord!   
    Same, but only very slightly. I might ask a mod to change mine from "Storm from X-Men" to "STRMfrmXMN" since most people seem to think "STRMfrmXMN" is a username I created by smashing my face against the keyboard
  2. Like
    STRMfrmXMN got a reaction from Ben17 in LTT Official Discord!   
    I got in!
  3. Like
    STRMfrmXMN reacted to Jurrunio in My PC just deleted all admin accounts   
    Windows repair disc is not used to reinstall the OS, but to fix corrupted files. To be safer you could use another OS install from another drive, clone the current boot drive to yet another drive before using the repair disc on the current boot drive. If repair disc broke the install even further, just clone the backup into it.
  4. Agree
    STRMfrmXMN got a reaction from Linuswasright in 80 PLUS Efficiency and What It Really Means   
    You clearly don't know how efficient I am.
  5. Funny
    STRMfrmXMN got a reaction from Drakonins in 80 PLUS Efficiency and What It Really Means   
    You clearly don't know how efficient I am.
  6. Informative
    STRMfrmXMN got a reaction from Results45 in Corsair RMx vs RMi?   
    The RMx is stuck in single-rail only or multi-rail only, not sure of which off the top of my mind. The RMi's Link capabilities allow you to switch operations. The fan is also a rifle on the RMx while it's an FDB on the RMi. 
     
    RMi is slightly better but only really worth it if you want link.
  7. Funny
    STRMfrmXMN reacted to TheSLSAMG in Razer Now Has Its Own Car, Because A Toaster Wasn’t Enough   
    The future is now, old man. Drive that 2005 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition into the scrapheap where it belongs, because gamers rule the world now and I get to swing around my da yinjing in my Razer electric car.
  8. Informative
    STRMfrmXMN got a reaction from MarvinKMooney in 80 PLUS Efficiency and What It Really Means   
    All the time I'll see people recommend PSUs based on efficiency. This, although fundamentally a good idea so that you don't end up with a stick and some chewing gum powering your system, shows that most do not understand what 80 PLUS efficiency implies. Let's get a couple myths out of the way:

    - "A higher 80 PLUS rating correlates to better quality." Incorrect. Certain components in a PSU do need to be of a certain quality to achieve higher efficiency (typically MOSFETs and diodes), however, quality of soldering, certain capacitors, etc, can be forgone in achieving an exemplary 80 PLUS rating. Electrical performance can be ditched as well. I like to use the EVGA G1 as an example of this. It's made of above average componentry, performs lackingly, and achieves gold efficiency. Then there's the EVGA B2, which is constructed about as well, performs better electrically, and advertises 80 PLUS Bronze efficiency (it actually achieves 80 PLUS Silver efficiency but that standard has been given up by and large). The EVGA B2 is a better PSU than the G1, yet it wastes slightly more electricity. This will correlate to a marginally more expensive power bill (pennies on the dollar for most home users) but ensures you a better power supply for your money. If, however, you plan to run a very power-hungry system for several hours on end then a more efficient power supply can save a more noticeable amount of money, especially if used heavily during hours of the day where electricity is more expensive.
     
    On another note: some brands will undersell their unit's rated wattage if it can achieve higher efficiency at lower loads, I.E. a brand may sell a 550W 80 PLUS Platinum rated unit that can actually output 600W+ but would have to be advertised at a lower efficiency rating if they were to sell it at that rated wattage.

    - "Higher 80 PLUS efficiency keeps the PSU cooler." Not to any serious degree, but this is technically true. A less efficient PSU will waste more electricity and wasted electricity is turned into heat. This is not likely to have an appreciable impact on the temperature of your room or system however as your system doesn't really draw that much power, thus it's better to optimize your system's airflow before throwing an AX1500i in your system to minimize heat created by the power supply. Since PSUs exhaust heat anyways the temperature of your system's hardware will not be impacted to any noticeable degree. Different PSUs also handle cooling differently and 80 PLUS efficiency doesn't correlate to the size of the fan used or the heat-dissipation abilities of the unit.
     
    - "Power supplies are most efficient at around 50% load." This is, by and large, untrue, and seems to be set in stone by many simply because the peak efficiency measured by Ecova's testing of just three load levels is at 50% always. Many manufacturers or reviewers test PSU efficiency at different loads and post charts online, if this matters to you, but many PSUs are more efficient at 60% load than 50% and many are more efficient towards 30%. Don't buy a PSU based on how efficient it will be with whatever hardware you have in it. Different topologies and different PSU platforms handle efficiency differently. This should be a non-issue and you should be looking at buying the best PSU you can get with your money.
     
    - "If you have a 1000W PSU with an 80% efficiency then you are only going to be able to get 800W from your power supply." This is incorrect. If you have an 80% efficient 1000W PSU then, when putting it under enough load to max its output you are going to be drawing more power from the walls - not losing output from your power supply. In this instance, putting a 1000W PSU under max load with an 80% efficiency would mean you're drawing 1250 watts from the wall. Math goes as such:
                                                                                                    X / Y= Z                  
                                                                                            1000W / .80 = 1250
                                                                                      1250W drawn from the wall

    X represents the wattage you're using (say 350W with a Ryzen 7 3700X and RTX 2080 Super under 100% system load), Y represents the efficiency in decimals (an 85% efficient PSU would be .85), and Z represents your total system draw from the wall. For this calculation we're assuming that the PSU in question has exactly enough wattage to power the system at 100% load and is 87% efficient at 100% draw, making it an 80+ Gold efficient power supply.


    So in our case with the 3700X and 2080 Super:
                                                                                                   350 / .87
                                                                          = 402 watts drawn from your power outlet
     
    Note, however, that efficiency is not consistent throughout the load of the power supply.

    Power supplies are more and less efficient at different loads. They are also more efficient when connected to a more powerful grid, the 230V nominal, which you may use if you don't live in North America. Check that your PSU allows for operation under both voltages. Most modern ones switch operation automatically. Other, often older units, will have a hard switch at the back of the unit to switch to choose from either 115V or 230V (note, DO NOT SWITCH TO THE ONE THAT DOESN'T MATCH THE ELECTRICAL OUTPUT OF YOUR WALL OUTLET! This doesn't usually end well!). This graph demonstrates the efficiency curve of a 2011-era Corsair TX750 when plugged into a 115V AC versus being plugged into a 230V AC. Note the TX750 is an 80+ Bronze rated PSU.
                    
                                          
     

    If you live in the United States, for example, you are using a 110-120V (115 nominal) AC through a standard NEMA 5-15 socket. Your power supply may be more or less efficient than your manufacturer claims because they may advertise efficiency through a 230V AC, though standard 80 PLUS efficiency testing is done on a 115V AC. Note that these tests for efficiency are also done under very specific test environments and do not necessarily reflect real-world scenarios so you may achieve higher or lower efficiency than rated by the manufacturer.

    And just to finish up let's go list the various 80 PLUS ratings and their efficiency at different power draws on a 115V and 230V AC as well as 230V AC redundant.
                                                                                   
     
                                                                              
    Note that Silver isn't really used anymore and the efficiency of a PSU that would achieve Silver certification would typically just be rounded up or down to Bronze or Gold. "230V internal redundant" refers to efficiency in a redundant scenario like in a data center. This guy from Dell explains it.
     
    One last thing I want to make a little more hard-hitting here. 80 PLUS efficiency ratings were invented to save corporations and industrial services money in the long-term, not home users! A company with 1000 computers all consuming 100W for 10 hours a day will see a much greater benefit from having all 80 PLUS Titanium units in their systems than you likely would with your system. Don't spend tons of money trying to get a super efficient PSU when a PSU that's just as good, costs less, and achieves a tier lower 80 PLUS rating is drastically cheaper. 
     
    Resources:
    Ecova (formerly Ecos), the 80 PLUS certification founder (and located very near me in Portland!)
    Wikipedia - There's more info here if you want to go down the Wikipedia rabbit hole
    Plug Load Solutions - A list of all PSU companies and how many different PSUs they have that achieve Ecova's various 80 PLUS standards.
  9. Funny
    STRMfrmXMN got a reaction from TVwazhere in PSU Tier List [OLD]   
    Haven't hit 20K yet! Ah wait... fuck YA GOT ME
  10. Funny
    STRMfrmXMN got a reaction from LogicWeasel in PSU Tier List [OLD]   
    Haven't hit 20K yet! Ah wait... fuck YA GOT ME
  11. Funny
    STRMfrmXMN got a reaction from PianoPlayer88Key in PSU Tier List [OLD]   
    Haven't hit 20K yet! Ah wait... fuck YA GOT ME
  12. Funny
    STRMfrmXMN got a reaction from LienusLateTips in PSU Tier List [OLD]   
    Haven't hit 20K yet! Ah wait... fuck YA GOT ME
  13. Informative
    STRMfrmXMN got a reaction from Fasauceome in How can I defrag a hard drive that won't optimize?   
    Try getting Defraggler
  14. Funny
    STRMfrmXMN got a reaction from seon123 in PSU Tier List [OLD]   
    Haven't hit 20K yet! Ah wait... fuck YA GOT ME
  15. Like
    STRMfrmXMN reacted to dalekphalm in What does gas/petrol cost where you're located?   
    Basically everyone but the US sells per litre. People have been converting into Gallons to appease ye Americans. Also of note: Imperial Gallons and US Gallons are not the same thing (because, you know, Murica).
     
    FYI, the IAD Octane rating is the same as used in North America - we call it PON (Pump Octane Number - It's the mean between the RON and MON Octane ratings). But IAD and PON are the same thing. Europe mostly just uses RON.
  16. Like
    STRMfrmXMN reacted to dalekphalm in What does gas/petrol cost where you're located?   
    As others have pointed out, having a higher octane fuel is not inherently better.
     
    Higher octane essentially (lay mans explanation, obviously skipping over huge details) means that the fuel is more stable and less prone to pre-ignition or causing knock.
     
    If your engine is rated for US Octane 87 (bog standard "Regular" fuel - or around Euro Octane 91), then there's literally no benefit in the vast majority of cases for using higher octane fuel.
    Source? That's a damn huge claim.
    Indeed, higher Octane is needed for some specific usages - otherwise people are just wasting their money if they are using higher octane than their car actually requires.
  17. Like
    STRMfrmXMN reacted to dalekphalm in What does gas/petrol cost where you're located?   
    Dang son. Of course, my (admittedly not very big) car weighs about 3 times yours.
    FYI 95 Octane in Europe isn't the same as in the US.
     
    95 Euro octane is ~roughly 91 Octane in the US. That's not race car fuel - pretty standard "premium" fuel. Very typical for cars with a Turbo, which are pretty common in Europe.
  18. Funny
  19. Like
    STRMfrmXMN reacted to Spotty in PSU Tier List [OLD]   
    As far as I'm aware at this stage there is no intention of unpinning that thread or any of the other threads currently pinned to the Cases & Power Supply forum.
     
    ... Besides, I kind of need that thread pinned there or else there will be too many people posting saying you need a 750w PSU for a system that uses 350w because "PSUs are most efficient at 50%".
  20. Like
    STRMfrmXMN got a reaction from Spotty in PSU Tier List [OLD]   
    Yeah, it can be dethroned now. As long as my 80 PLUS guide stays  
  21. Funny
    STRMfrmXMN got a reaction from LukeSavenije in PSU Tier List [OLD]   
    Yeah, it can be dethroned now. As long as my 80 PLUS guide stays  
  22. Like
    STRMfrmXMN reacted to dalekphalm in Stock investing   
    @PurplDrank I would suggest that you keep individual stock trading to a percentage of your total investments. I would limit it to say, 25% of your investments, max. Direct stock investment is significantly more volatile.
     
    Ensure that you're investing some of your money into a diversified portfolio (ETF's are good places to do this).
     
    I have around $600 in direct stock investing, at the moment. Most of it are Canadian companies, but I've got a share each of AMD and Coca-Cola. Most of my investments are in an ETF from Wealthsimple (Shameless plug: PM for referral code).
     
    Most of the direct stocks I buy, I do because they are well established, stable companies that are regularly profitable, and regularly pay out dividends (So you earn actual money, in addition to the rise of the stock price).
  23. Informative
    STRMfrmXMN reacted to cluelessgenius in What does gas/petrol cost where you're located?   
    im having a really hard time reading this.
     
    first off as an apparently non-freedom-loving european i now gotta convert all that shit to normal people units.
    alright so a gallon apparently are 3.79 liters. great now i think your highest price mentionend was 3.60$ so divided by 3.79. means youre paying 0.95$ per liter ok now converting that too euro would be 0.84.......wait .....seriously? god damn and thats the highest price ? fuck me.
     
    around here right now regular gas is 1.52€ per liter and premium is 1.71€. so if im doing all that math backwards now that would be 1.71$ and 1.93$ per litre. and then times 3.79 means a gallon regular is 6.47$ and premium is 7.31$.
    sooo yeah im feeling depression kicking in right now.
     
    but also can we talk about what rgualr and premium means because i feel like there might be a difference. regular here is 95 octane and premium is 102 octane.
  24. Like
    STRMfrmXMN got a reaction from Mira Yurizaki in What does gas/petrol cost where you're located?   
    I will say that, when I went down there last year, my asthma didn't seem to kick in like it had the previous times I'd been there. Also I'm fairly certain the drinking water was better but that might have been because I normally stay in Manhattan Beach and stayed in Woodland Hills last year.
     
    Ooh nice! I love the SS, would love to drive one at my dealership some day (I work at a Chevy dealership). We sold quite a few of those back when they had them. Do you use one of the E36s as a parts car or do you drive both?
     
    Sadly, even with a Safeway card (which I wouldn't use since they don't exist in abundance here in Portland) I'd still pay more for Chevron gas than 76 here. If I had a Costco membership though...
  25. Like
    STRMfrmXMN reacted to Mira Yurizaki in What does gas/petrol cost where you're located?   
    The price we pay to make sure LA isn't the smoggy hellhole it once was.
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