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Figure out exactly which one it is, but likely you have a dying pump.

The kind that works on the fittings you have.
 
IF you have no fittings, then get the kind that goes with the cheapest/nicest looking fittings you want
 
Also keep in mind the really thick walled hoses are pretty hard to route around, they are quite rigid and heavy.

I've watched many documented test from 3months of use up to a year, and everyone who's done an extensive testing project can confirm that:
 
1: LM continues to provide good thermal conductivity after a good while
2: LM does stain copper heatsinks, because copper DOES react with it - but it's not damaging to the alloy.
3: LM will "dehydrate" as it absorbs into the porous copper and you will have to reapply it down the road. For some people, that's 3 months. For others, it's a year.
4: LM does not react with nickel at all and it best used with it. After that comes the copper, which stains but keeps operating normally. Alluminum isn't compatible because LM form a new alloy with it, completely disintegrating it in the process.
 
Poor performance of LM occurs when: 
 
1: There's too much of it and it pools
2: There's to little of it and it doesn't make good contact
3: When there isn't enough pressure applied on the heatsink
4: When it's only applied on on side of the materials touching - meaning either just the CPU/GPU die or just the cooler. 
EDIT 5: When it's applied in the same manner as regular thermal paste. It's applied completely differently as your normal thermal paste.
 
You might've had a bad experience with it, but there's clear objective evidence what LM is a good cooling method and works very well when applied properly, with the right materials involved.

Ay Carramba!
Liquid metal has absolutely different applying method and the dosage is just a fraction of a conventional paste. 
Something like that is a good thing to watch before applying it:
 
I would not recommend using it over the IHS, only delidded CPU's ... so it's becoming obsolete method anyway.

Some of the newer Noctua fans come with a silicone rubber gasket to do just that.  You can also buy premade ones in either foam or rubber.
https://modmymods.com/fans-accessories/fan-gaskets.html

Probably not what you wanted to hear, but I was able to use a NZXT Kraken G12 on my MSI 5700 XT EVOKE OC that was supposedly 'not compatible'. No mods, no nothing. I just used some M3 screws through the stock mounting holes and it mounted right up. I'm only using a 120mm EVGA AIO cheapy, but I went from 105C+ junction temps to a max of 78C, and the average package temp is right around 60C now. I also am using a 140mm corsair ML fan at like 600rpm to keep it virtually silent. 

Essentially, I think any 'universal' block may work just fine, it just won't cover the VRM and RAM. With the Kraken, however, the silent 92mm fan that comes with it has kept VRM under 60C during gaming and the RAM hits about 80-85C. I've also left the stock backplate with thermal pads on it, so that's likely passively helping a little bit.

any particular reason for liquid cooling. I mean some 5700xt cards do have very good air cooling with the fans. 

1gpm is fine.
But I can honestly say that my loop has very little temp difference between 225lph and 50lph

They are flawless, especially for the money. If 20 usd for a single fan doesn't sound right to you, arctics are probably the best choice.
 
noctua nf a12x15? Raijintek used to be the go-to brand for slim fans. I'm sure scythe has a few too.
Btw they are much less effective than 25mm thick fans.. Unless those are the only fans that fit, don't use slims.

Mb= fan control, if hot, fan go fast, if cold fan go slow and less noise.
 
But if case, fan go fast all the time.

It moves air from here to there, and does so quietly.

Bottom fans look like they are exhausting. Do you have any intake fans there?

both, buy two arctic p12 as intakes. I am using arctic p12 and arctic freezer 34 esports duo. Idle temperature is 40-50, gaming temperature 62 C max. Your case has better airflow than my define mini C so I will expect lower temperature. total cost for me for this upgrade is around 60 USD

why are you concerned about that trapped heat? You can rest assured that your ODD doesn't care about it (Optical Disk Drive), especially if you don't use it
 
Intake through lower sidepanel slot and front, exhaust through rear fan. That's it.
 
 

it depends on the case and fans. 120mm fans should be pretty quiet up to 1000rpm. I'd bet that you won't hear them up to 1200 with a headset, unless the case is very restrictive, or something in there resonates with that rpm. 

Depends which fan. There are bad €20 fans and good €12 fans. Price doesn't tell everything.

Most are pretty good. Ones like the arctic f12's are really good and cost around that.

i got a 5 pack of arctic 120mm fans for £15 and they work perfect!! obviously no RGB but who needs that right?

Play around with it.  Check your temps.  The deal is fan noise is not completely linear with rpm.  There’s a drop off at the low end.  There’s a point below a certain level where a fan makes almost no noise at all.  It’s based on the speed of the tip of the blade.  This is why smaller fans can spin faster and still avoid it.  It’s possible that effectively silent speeds won’t push enough air for you.

That number is going to be based on the diameter of the fans and the shape of the blades.  For 120 mm fans it used to be somewhere around but usually above 800rpm.  For 140mm fans it was more like 500 than 800. It sounds easy enough to test.  They’re your ears after all.

Change the fan curve in Corsair Software?
before, when the fans were plugged into the motherboard, it used the motherboard to control the fans.
 
Now Corsair Commander Pro controls the fans. So SET IT UP! Choose the silent fan profile in corsair software, or create your own curve.

Vardar over Corsair but if you can be persuaded to Noctua. 
 
NF F-12 is an amazing static pressure fan and available on their Chromax line.
NF-A12x25 plays well in all areas.
 
 

I can be totally wrong but I always use RODI water (I have had saltwater reef tanks for years so I can make my own) and a pinch of pure silver kill coil I change my water 2x a year and have never had growth or clogging in my loops.
 

Deionization is more rigorous than distillation, either is absolutely fine.

Use distilled water with an antimicrobial additive.