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They are flawless, especially for the money. If 20 usd for a single fan doesn't sound right to you, arctics are probably the best choice. noctua nf a12x15? Raijintek used to be the go-to brand for slim fans. I'm sure scythe has a few too. Btw they are much less effective than 25mm thick fans.. Unless those are the only fans that fit, don't use slims.

yes. Imo best PSUs, good fans, good cases.

It's supposed to be less noisy than others, and their bearings supposedly last forever. The only noctua product I have is a set of rubber fan screws. I really wanna try an nh u12a, but it's almost as expensive as my custom loop was.. I can't comment about what makes noctua heatsinks amazing, but I know stuff about fans. The nf a12x25 is very rigid, allowing for a narrow gap between the frame and the blades, and the blades have teeth on the trailing edge ==> less noise. I found that blacknoise noiseblocker eloops implement these design points with more confidence, and those are cheaper so I got those. Unfortunately they don't make cpu coolers.

you can make any fan use a standard RGB connector. All you need is a knife, a soldering iron, and rgb connectors

turn around the bottom fans..

If you don't wanna spend much, an arctic freezer 34 would be a good idea. You can either add 2x 140mm arctic fans in the front (f14 or p14), or I have a feeling it would be fine if you had 3x 120mm intakes, which would require only 1 more 120mm fan. Again arctic, either f12 or p12. The 2x 140mm intakes & 2x 120mm exhausts would be flawless with anything at least as big as the freezer 34 (non esport). I think any 4 heatpipe cooler more expensive or smaller than the freezer 34 is a waste of money. Other coolers I'd consider (quickly browsing through my favorite store): noctua nh d15, nf u12a; thermalright true spirit 140 power, silver arrow ibe, archon ibe; be quiet dark rock 4 (pro)

Any reason why you want the top fans as intake?? What's the point if component temps don't improve, but still some heat is stuck inside?

How fast is the cpu fan spinning? 500rpm?

it doesnt matter what kind of fan it is, 2400 rpm is not quiet at all. I hope you can slow them down enough tho. My fastest fans are ek vardars, i think 2000 or 2500 rpm, which I can't run any faster than 10% pwm (800rpm) cause they get too loud too quickly (20% is unacceptable).

why are you concerned about that trapped heat? You can rest assured that your ODD doesn't care about it (Optical Disk Drive), especially if you don't use it Intake through lower sidepanel slot and front, exhaust through rear fan. That's it.

I had issues with my PSU overheating in an inwin 303. You don't wanna use it as an exhaust, give it as much fresh air as possible.

that sounds perfect. The p12 has better static pressure against the filter, and the 14s are great in the front. I have a meshifyC, and this would be my setup if i used an aircooler.

if it's anything like a 303 (judging by photos it is), the rear fan is the most important piece. The fans on the. right are really restricted by the side panel, I don't think it would be worth it to run them much faster than the others, and I assume you wanna keep it pretty quiet. If you are willing to cut some pieces out of the right side panel I think a rear intake + side exhaust + very slow bottom intake would be pretty good. With the current parts I'd suggest running the rear fun at up to 1300rpm, the bottom fans around 800 rpm, and the side fans at starting voltage, 500-700rpm, basically as slow as possible Also I assume you chose the 212 based off price:performance. The arctic freezer 34 is practically the same thing but cheaper (you get good thermal paste with it and an integrated splitter on the fan cable). With the price difference you might be able to fit in another LED fan for it, though the stock p12 is very good.

2400, damn is it gonna be in another house? (no mean intentions, I'm just surprised and curious)

I don't think you would run into any problems with 2, 3 or 4 way splitters, unless you wanna run the fans at 2000 rpm or higher. You could plug a 2 way splitter onto a 4 way splitter, and boom you got 5 fans from a single connector (preferably watercooling pump connector, I'm sure that z390 board has one).

it depends on the case and fans. 120mm fans should be pretty quiet up to 1000rpm. I'd bet that you won't hear them up to 1200 with a headset, unless the case is very restrictive, or something in there resonates with that rpm.

corsair stuff is rarely plugNplay

I think P12s would be a much better choice, cuz they are more universal. I don't think the s12s would fare well with a drive cage behind them. If you got the cash, then A12x25s in the front (from what i've heard those are the best fans ever), and something pretty in the rear like a 140mm nb eloop (either argb or normal). I like these brands, if you wanna look them up for yourself: thermalright, be quiet, blacknoise, arctic cooling.

did you think about relocating the card to another pcie slot?

if you are gonna use the cpu that's already in there, I'd agree with scuff gang, you would be better off with a decent case and a cheap aircooler, anything with 4 heatpipes and a 120mm fan (hyper212 or arctic freezer 33 or 34). I'm pretty sure any case that has slots for a 280mm aio would fit a 120mm aircooler

Does that leave the water clear, or is it blue now? I'd suggest adding some kind of biocide to it. The safest way is to use premixed liquids, tho you can run it with de-ionized or distilled fine for a while. Just don't be surprised when the tubes get cloudy and maybe temps rise a bit after a few months.

conductonaut is a liquid metal. It performs much better than any paste. It is best for delidding CPUs and GPU coolers. The only problem with it is that it's more difficult to apply and remove, and if you put too much it might leak out and short something. If you just want something for your cpu cooler, arctic mx4 would be my suggestion.

I have spilled some water onto my psu and onto my graphics card. Some got onto my mobo once, too. It doesn't matter at all if there's no electricity in the circuits when it happens and if you dry it thoroughly before putting it back to use. You could watch jayztwocents' video in which he sprays plain and simple tapwater onto a graphicscard until it stops working. That might ease your fears.

I'd suggest installing the top fans as exhaust. Otherwise lots of warm air would get trapped, your gpu temps would be much higher. Run the front fans as fast as you are comfortable with, the rear fan around 1000-1300 rpm and the top fans around 1000 rpm.

maybe the pump pwm connector. Though I hope you realize that you don't HAVE TO utilize the cpu header. Just make sure that the pump's pwm is plugged in somewhere, as well as all the fans' pwm connectors.