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On 7/28/2020 at 8:05 PM, -rascal- said:

 

I remember Cooler Master did have daisy-chained fans.

Don't remember who...but I think it was Hardware Canucks or Bitwit (Kyle) that did a video on them.

 

Here we go!

240mm and 360mm (2x or 3x fans).

I *thought* they had regular RGB versions as well...but only found the ARGB variant on their site.

 

https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/coolers/case-fan/masterfan-sf240r-argb/

https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/coolers/case-fan/masterfan-sf360r-argb/

 

EDIT: It was Paul from Paul's Hardware.

 

damn nice find. So i was kinda right but wrong but right lol. Could you buy some?

On 7/28/2020 at 5:10 PM, freeagent said:

Also, not every air cooler will beat an AIO. The one this thread is about is only a 5 pipe cooler, it should cool the cpu but it won’t do it better than a good AIO.

certainly. However with such height limitations OP may not have the space for an AIO, or he might not want to replace it after a few years. Personally I don't like AIOs because they are meant to be trashed after some time, instead of being designed for working as long as possible.

On 7/25/2020 at 5:47 PM, Katnip said:

The fans were essentially one giant unit - 2 fans joined together in one string, essentially like a GPU shroud. With only one set of cables for the both of them and RGB along the edge of the shroud. Also seem to recall that they also had a triple fan variant available as well.

Was I dreaming of this, or is it actually a thing? It almost sounds too good to be true - a triple fan set up with a RGB light strip all in one piece and with far less wires to deal with to make cable management a heck of a lot easier to deal with.

I remember seeing such co-joined fans included with AIOs, I think it was coolermaster. They didn't have leds tho.
-later-
I looked it up, I didn't see any coolermasters in my store with such fans. Nor raijintek. I have no idea what brand it was, but I'm 80% sure it was an AIO.
 

On 7/26/2020 at 3:36 AM, MadAnt250 said:

 Ok, going to newegg and will buy soon, thanks to everyone for the input.

that noctua looks like a beast (for a 90mm). An arctic freezer 34 was able to handle my 2700 at 4.2ghz, so I'm sure it would be good on a 2600x. If you can fit that, it's a fraction of the price, and would handle larger chips in the future. Personally I wouldn't go cheaper than that.

On 7/26/2020 at 6:12 PM, depau said:

Thanks for the tip. I forgot to mention it but I was also considering an AIO because it doesn't cover the whole motherboard, though I value more performance/€ than the volume.

I guess you mean price/performance vs size. If you don't ever want to buy another cpu cooler, I recommend an nhd15 or nh u12a. They are probably overkill for a 3600x, but they could work really quietly (if your case airflow allows). The be quiet dark rock 4 (pro) would be good too. Thermalright silver arrow IBE (I think they make am4 mounting brackets). I have a custom loop with 2 radiators, it looks nice and it's plenty powerful, but now I'd rather use an aircooler (like the nh u12a) because of maintenance.

In my opinion all non-expandable or aluminium AIOs are trash products. They have a limited life by design, thus they are extremely difficult to maintain. I don't like that mindset. If you really want water but not a full loop,  I recommend something from EK or Alphacool. They have aios with copper radiators and standard fittings, which you could clean, refill and expand should the need arise.

There's nothing you can do about the skyrocketing temps (aside from delidding or using better TIM, like liquid metal; sometimes higher mounting pressure can help, if the cooler is mounted properly, increasing the pressure in any way can be risky). There are numerous heat transfer layers in there, the temp sensors (i guess) are pretty close to the cores, and above those

1. is a transition to (gold, then) the solder,
2. then another layer of gold
3. then the nickel plating
4. then the copper
5. there's technically another layer of nickel
6. the thermal paste you apply (noctua)
7. (the nickel plating of the cooler)
8. copper heatpipes,
9. (aluminum fins)
10. and finally air.

The inefficiencies of the layers add up, and some heat "gets trapped" around the cores. Heat needs to get carried away through the materials. The cooler has a large thermal capacity, so it takes a while to get warmer. That's why your fans don't have to follow the temps exactly.

Aside from that, heating follows a logarithmic curve, so the rate of temperature increase decreases over time. Cooling is similar to that, it follows exponential decay, where the rate of temperature decrease decreases. You could recognize both curves with a higher resolution of temperature monitoring (like 100ms instead of 2s). (You could see it in MSI afterburner if you have something other than a navi gpu. Set sensor refresh rate / sampling to 100ms, set your gpu fans to 50%, then start a test and look at GPU temp curves.)

Bottom line is, it's normal that the cpu temp increases for a short while after the sudden spike. If it keeps rising for minutes on end without stopping or at least slowing down, your cooling system is inadequate (max temp should be reached within 15 minutes). You should either

• increase fan speeds,
• improve case airflow,
• get a bigger cooler.

On 7/15/2020 at 3:03 PM, MS-DOS said:

But even on silent mode it's not quiet enough. It also has a led that goes on during silent mode which you can't turn off which isn't deal to sleep with but whatever, I can at least get rid of it putting a cardboard on top of it but the noise is a problem.

i think you would be better off with some earplugs.

On 7/26/2020 at 9:17 PM, LogicalDrm said:

... If you want high airflow fan, look at iPPC line-up from Noctua instead.

You probably won't be needing either, really. Those are for situations where case isn't designed for airflow and fans need to push massive amount of air through tight chassis.

agreed. An ordinary desktop doesn't need anything more than a 3000rpm ippc. I think OP underestimates the noise a delta would make. Imo even 2000rpm 120mm fans are useless thanks to the noise they make.

A delta in a desktop is the stupid kind of overkill

On 7/25/2020 at 2:46 PM, COM1killer said:

D15 looks like it will fit in my case. Cheaping out bites me in the ass yet again

the problem with a 7700k (and most intel cpus) is its trash thermal interface under the IHS. Heat simply doesn't get out of the cpu. No matter what cooler you put on it, since the heat doesn't get transferred from the chip to the ihs or heatsink. I'm pretty sure your cpu cooler doesn't even get warm to the touch during a cpu stress test.

The only ways to solve this are a delid with liquid metal or undervolting. I had a 200eur watercooling loop, and the water wasn't getting any warmer, but the cpu kept skyrocketing to 80-90C at a medium OC. I delidded the thing on the second week. Surprisingly (not) now I can run at 5ghz with 65-75C max temps, 240mm radiator, 10 usd bitfenix spectre fans at 1200rpm max, exhausting from fractal arc midi r2, with 2x140mm intakes 700rpm. Silent, fast, acceptable temps. Simply not possible with a stock cpu.

First and last intel chip I ever bought.

On 7/26/2020 at 10:02 PM, LogicalDrm said:

What the current case and fan setup there is? If you will use same fans and all of them, it matters very little which way you place them. Placing more powerful fans on CPU cooler means lower CPU temps, placing them on case might mean lower temps for both CPU and GPU.

As long as the airflow isn't adequate he could put any number of fans on the cooler, it wouldn't make a difference.

On 7/26/2020 at 5:12 PM, iSteven_6s said:

Slightly longer question so bear with me here...
The cooler I have right now is a Scythe Fuma 2 with the front fan replaced with a Corsair LL120.
My plan is to add two more fans to my system (Noctua Redux). 

I'd recommend using the cpu cooler with the stock fans, 2 corsairs as exhaust and 2 140mms as intake (in a case without extremely restrictive front panel).

If you did end up buying the 280x, I think the bottom fan positions would be more beneficial (unless you have it on a carpet). With a bottom> top airflow the only "danger" is a hot air pocket above the gpu, but I think the aircooler would do a good job at stirring up that area.

If you have some other case with a restrictive front the 120mm corsair might do a better job at pulling air inside, since 120s tend to have better pressure.

On 7/20/2020 at 9:07 AM, HenrySalayne said:

If you know how to solder you might be able to replace the switch. I replaced several micro switches on Logitech mice so far. It takes 15 to 30 minutes.

From what I've seen switches can be disassembled and cleaned even without soldering. They are probably bitches to assemble afterwards, but it's an option.

On 7/19/2020 at 9:57 PM, Hevalisk said:

Here is the current mouse I'm using:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E64DTDQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Does anyone of know of a decent mouse under $50 with a similar side button layout? 

These small manufacturers tend to catch you like that. They have unique layouts, so you'll keep buying them. I had a Trust mouse with 6 buttons along the top edges (aside from RMB LMB MMB), and a rapoo with 3 on the side in a line. It's not too difficult to readjust to a new, more widely adopted layout (2 side, or 2 side+snipe), it takes only a few days. 
spc gear seems to be really popular in my area. I'd recommend the logitech g402, though I haven't tried it, plus it's pretty old (i have the g502, 603 and 303). Logitech g203, if it fits your hand. Steelseries rival 3 seems to be in your price range, it doesn't look bad. I always wanted to try the g300s, but somehow I end up buying more expensive mice every time. 

On 7/20/2020 at 9:35 PM, Skunktail said:

So far

reddragon and steelseries have both replied, seemingly confused at my request of a metal mouse, then when they understood, the answer was no. they don't make one.

I'm sure you have tried vertical mice (like logitech mx vertical), otherwise you wouldn't have come to this conclusion, right?
Do gloves help with your issue? How about the way you rest your arm?

I guess money is not an issue, since apparently you would be down to pay for a one-off metal mouse by a major manufacturer. If so maybe there's some artisan in your area who could fabricate a few metal inserts for your chosen mouse. I'm thinking thin copper or aluminum plates on the problematic surfaces. A few holes in the plastic parts, little legs/pins on the corners/ sides of the plates. Maybe some double sided tape.

Aluminum foil attached with double sided tape??? (i really like this idea) You would need to do a very precise job and it would be pretty fragile, but I don't see any other issues with it. Cheap, fast, universal, and you get a mouse with metallic surface.

I don't mean to be annoying, your situation is simply puzzling. 

On 7/22/2020 at 3:56 PM, DragonsRift said:

so theres no solution? i just have to spend another 60$ on another mouse?

Judging by the pictures on this aliexpress listing, looks like the switches can be disassembled, maybe cleaned or otherwise repaired. Looks like you could clean the little contacts with alcohol and cue tips or cotton swabs. With some small pliers and needles you could even try to bend the spring part ever so slightly to restore the contact force. I think this could be done without soldering. The mouse is far from being easy to open (I've done it twice). It needs to be pried pretty hard in the right spots. This video might come in handy.

you could also replace the switch.

The same switch might be used in other buttons of the mouse. You could desolder one, if it's not crucial, or double clicking wouldn't bother you. The best option would be to buy someone's g502 with a working main switch. Otherwise you gotta order it (most likely from aliexpress or similar). Then you'll most likely have to desolder the old, then resolder the new switch. Needed: soldering iron, sponge, flux, solder, wick, screwdrivers (flat and philips), old credit cards or IDs. The better option might be to use sidecutters or something and simply break off the bad switch. PCB mounted parts can be much more difficult to remove than to install. Since orders from aliexpress take a long time to ship, in the mean time you could watch some of Louis Rossmann's videos to learn the basics of soldering (sometimes he uses hot air instead of an iron, but it's the same principle). Be careful while soldering switches, especially such small ones, they can easily melt. You gotta use lots of flux and don't heat the solder contacts any longer than necessary. 

fyi I repaired my middle button switch 2 times (I used to rage often). I repaired around 10 switches on my mechanical keyboard (bad batch of switches). I hate to trash electronics, especially when the faulty part is so simple and cheap. 

I hope I could help

On 7/23/2020 at 6:19 AM, Snowmnason said:

So I post a lot with stupid questions and I feel awful, but I couldn't find a thread. 

I have the original Vive so I definitely want an upgrade. but there is so many options. 

I was hoping to see a large thread comparing the different ones Quest, Pro, Cosmos, index. 

Money isn't a HUGE issue. I am just looking for opinions on reliability, user friendliness, features. I wanted to avoid pages like these because I never trust a big page as much as I trust form users like you guys.

Sorry if this is in the wrong form, and apologize if this is the 7th time you seen this kind of post, I couldn't find another one!

i tried a cosmos, and i didn't like it, I bought it 35% off, but I still returned it.  I don't think it's worth more than a used vive.

• The headset didn't fit me at all, the rubber thing at the nose left a huge gap under my eyes.
• I had to tighten the headband pretty strong, otherwise it would slide around on my head.
• It has a fan on the front which is pretty loud, and the headset still gets hot.
• The controllers are large and heavy.
• You need a PERFECT room for the tracking, specifically arranged for the cosmos. I guess it's gotta be large, with even bright lighting and lots of large textured areas.
• Setting up a play area took me 15 minutes of spinning around in my office room with plenty of lighting and lots of straight high contrast edges and corners.
• The cameras limit your movement a lot. I had to keep my arms uncomfortably far away from my body, which the heavy controllers don't help. I had to stare at the controllers for seconds every time I let them down near my side. The headset lost tracking every time I looked at my feet...

tldr: the youtube reviews don't lie in this case.

On 7/23/2020 at 2:30 PM, AncientPistol said:

So today things happened and I ended up spilling a not insignificant amount of water on my CK550 keyboard. The pc wasn't powered on when the incident happened and the keyboard dripped a few drops when I inverted it. How long do I need to keep it unplugged to make sure all the water has dried? Also, should I remove the key caps to speed up the drying process?

you should either leave it to dry for a week or so, preferably in a warm environment (though not in direct sunlight), or disassemble it, dry it with a few papertowels or something, then leave it to dry for about a day (again, preferably in a warm environment, not in sunlight). 
Disassembly would most likely involve removing  a few screws, maybe the rubber feet (which often stick right back on). My cm mk750 is really easy to take apart, I'd be surprised if the ck550 was more complicated.

On 7/23/2020 at 8:04 AM, SSwarwick said:

is there any RGB software that can control RGB from different brands and sync it together? 

specific brands- logitech, asus, aorus, corsair 

that title killed me... you know what a title is, right?

On 7/25/2020 at 5:18 PM, StrawberryShortCakes said:

I'm looking for a wireless machanical keyboard but I'm not sure what switches to go for,

I'm looking for switches that are quiet if possible.

if your store has a good return policy, you could try a logitech k380. It's membrane, but it's exceptionally stabilized. It has better feedback than my cherry mx brown coolermaster. It lasts 2 years on 2 AAA batteries. If it interests you I can tell you more about it.

On 7/25/2020 at 11:20 PM, Redsiskin said:

its old 3 years and i bought from amazon so no warranty in my country.

good to know that they have this issues i will just avoid them next time,

i tried a g403 and it was trash compared to my other mice: g603, g303 and g502.
I think the g403 is simply crap. Their other products are good if they fit your hands and needs.

The 603 looks similar to the 403, but as far as I can tell it's a bit different, more comfortable (I used them a few months apart, and I barely used the 403 for 10 minutes).

I use the 603 as a daily, I'm not careful with it, I carry it in my backpack. It's been flawless for more than 2 years now (2018 may). The G got rubbed away on its back, but that's all. I very rarely have to charge it, maybe every 6 months, and even then you can use it with one battery while the other charges, then switch.

It's competitively light balanced with just one AA inside. You can use it with a laptop/phone via bluetooth and on a pc with the dongle.
I used it with FPS games, the wireless tech is reliable.
I've had the g502 and g303 since 2017 fall. The only issue with the 502 is that it's scrollwheel started oxidizing and chipping. It's not pretty, but still works perfectly. 303 is just perfect, though it's shape might not fit you. 

18 hours ago, Johnny-Boi said:

Hey, i'm looking for a 30-40 dollar mouse, preferably with a dedicated sniping button and a clickable scroll wheel, thanks

it's very important to find a mouse that fits your hand. If you have a mediamarkt in your area, where you can actually touch the mice, go there and try as many as you like and try to notice certain features that are important (like size, comfort grooves, rubber sides, outward/inwards leaning sides, scroll wheel, main switches). After that you can find one that best fits all of those preferences.

2 hours ago, Yonathan said:

Something Logitech, something else than a G305 or other brands

g603. It has 0 latency, you can change the batteries so you don't have to trash it after a few years. It has bluetooth so you can use it with any laptop and some phones. 2 sidebuttons. Options: two AAs for reliability and battery life; one AA for gaming, lighter weight, better balance. A single 2000mAh AA lasts months, I hardly ever have to charge them. The scroll wheel is better than the g403's. It looks professional. It's not extremely expensive. Just don't lose the dongle.

I've had it since release (2017), I'm not going easy on it. I'm not trying to spare its wheel or buttons. I carry it with me in my backpack (in a separate pocket). The G on its back is faded, other than it's flawless

The software sometimes shits itself, but what software doesn't. (Not recognizing the first scroll step, messing with cursor speed, stuttering). I haven't noticed any issues recently though.

5 hours ago, ElephantLUV said:

I’m new to pc building, intact I finished my build a few days ago, I also ordered a monitor so while I waited for that I never turned on the system, it should arrive tomorrow but I was really wanting to turn it on so I decided too. 

wait for the screen, it's probably fine

16 hours ago, 5GigaaHertz said:

using alcohol and water solution 70% IPA and drop it into the switch seems to work. but I consider your suggestion if the problem still persist.

good luck, i'm glad you found a solution

19 hours ago, seapriestess said:

This driver is very odd, but I found a youtube video showing how it works so Im a lot more confident now. Thank you for the suggestion.
One more thing, do you know if it works with Krita?

i'd be surprised if it didn't. I use it with autodesk sketchbook on windows... Huion seems like the next best brand after wacom, and they are much cheaper. I'm sure they work with most popular drawing apps

3 minutes ago, seapriestess said:

Do you have any idea if either of those first suggestions work with Linux out of the box?

https://digimend.github.io/tablets/Huion_H640P/

i don't know how linux works but this looks like a driver to me

14 hours ago, 5GigaaHertz said:

its because cant do it flawlessly and properly and I dont have the tools to do so

if the washing/blowing don't work you could try a few computer stores or laptop repair stores if they have somebody who'd be willing to do it for a few bucks. Especially if you don't have any other options

On 6/27/2020 at 7:44 PM, InfernalClaw said:

Logitech g430 (which is what i own) vs hyper x stinger non core just stinger. im happy with the g430 but was wondering if the stinger core has better audio in general. i use stereo on my g430 cuz i hate surround sound

i have no idea about audio, however I can tell you that the stinger is a lot more comfortable. Imo the logitech headsets are trash in a world where hyperx headsets exist. The cloud stinger and cloud 2 are the most comfortable headsets I ever had on. I chose the stinger cuz I didn't wanna drop the cash on the cloud 2. The stinger was good enough.

-very soft, light, comfortable

-good sound

-good mic

-long ass splitter cable (it has a combo jack by default)

-good build quality