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damn nice find. So i was kinda right but wrong but right lol. Could you buy some?

certainly. However with such height limitations OP may not have the space for an AIO, or he might not want to replace it after a few years. Personally I don't like AIOs because they are meant to be trashed after some time, instead of being designed for working as long as possible.

I remember seeing such co-joined fans included with AIOs, I think it was coolermaster. They didn't have leds tho. -later- I looked it up, I didn't see any coolermasters in my store with such fans. Nor raijintek. I have no idea what brand it was, but I'm 80% sure it was an AIO.

that noctua looks like a beast (for a 90mm). An arctic freezer 34 was able to handle my 2700 at 4.2ghz, so I'm sure it would be good on a 2600x. If you can fit that, it's a fraction of the price, and would handle larger chips in the future. Personally I wouldn't go cheaper than that.

I guess you mean price/performance vs size. If you don't ever want to buy another cpu cooler, I recommend an nhd15 or nh u12a. They are probably overkill for a 3600x, but they could work really quietly (if your case airflow allows). The be quiet dark rock 4 (pro) would be good too. Thermalright silver arrow IBE (I think they make am4 mounting brackets). I have a custom loop with 2 radiators, it looks nice and it's plenty powerful, but now I'd rather use an aircooler (like the nh u12a) because of maintenance. In my opinion all non-expandable or aluminium AIOs are trash products. They have a limited life by design, thus they are extremely difficult to maintain. I don't like that mindset. If you really want water but not a full loop, I recommend something from EK or Alphacool. They have aios with copper radiators and standard fittings, which you could clean, refill and expand should the need arise. There's nothing you can do about the skyrocketing temps (aside from delidding or using better TIM, like liquid metal; sometimes higher mounting pressure can help, if the cooler is mounted properly, increasing the pressure in any way can be risky). There are numerous heat transfer layers in there, the temp sensors (i guess) are pretty close to the cores, and above those is a transition to (gold, then) the solder, then another layer of gold then the nickel plating then the copper there's technically another layer of nickel the thermal paste you apply (noctua) (the nickel plating of the cooler) copper heatpipes, (aluminum fins) and finally air. The inefficiencies of the layers add up, and some heat "gets trapped" around the cores. Heat needs to get carried away through the materials. The cooler has a large thermal capacity, so it takes a while to get warmer. That's why your fans don't have to follow the temps exactly. Aside from that, heating follows a logarithmic curve, so the rate of temperature increase decreases over time. Cooling is similar to that, it follows exponential decay, where the rate of temperature decrease decreases. You could recognize both curves with a higher resolution of temperature monitoring (like 100ms instead of 2s). (You could see it in MSI afterburner if you have something other than a navi gpu. Set sensor refresh rate / sampling to 100ms, set your gpu fans to 50%, then start a test and look at GPU temp curves.) Bottom line is, it's normal that the cpu temp increases for a short while after the sudden spike. If it keeps rising for minutes on end without stopping or at least slowing down, your cooling system is inadequate (max temp should be reached within 15 minutes). You should either increase fan speeds, improve case airflow, get a bigger cooler.

i think you would be better off with some earplugs.

agreed. An ordinary desktop doesn't need anything more than a 3000rpm ippc. I think OP underestimates the noise a delta would make. Imo even 2000rpm 120mm fans are useless thanks to the noise they make. A delta in a desktop is the stupid kind of overkill

the problem with a 7700k (and most intel cpus) is its trash thermal interface under the IHS. Heat simply doesn't get out of the cpu. No matter what cooler you put on it, since the heat doesn't get transferred from the chip to the ihs or heatsink. I'm pretty sure your cpu cooler doesn't even get warm to the touch during a cpu stress test. The only ways to solve this are a delid with liquid metal or undervolting. I had a 200eur watercooling loop, and the water wasn't getting any warmer, but the cpu kept skyrocketing to 80-90C at a medium OC. I delidded the thing on the second week. Surprisingly (not) now I can run at 5ghz with 65-75C max temps, 240mm radiator, 10 usd bitfenix spectre fans at 1200rpm max, exhausting from fractal arc midi r2, with 2x140mm intakes 700rpm. Silent, fast, acceptable temps. Simply not possible with a stock cpu. First and last intel chip I ever bought.

As long as the airflow isn't adequate he could put any number of fans on the cooler, it wouldn't make a difference. I'd recommend using the cpu cooler with the stock fans, 2 corsairs as exhaust and 2 140mms as intake (in a case without extremely restrictive front panel). If you did end up buying the 280x, I think the bottom fan positions would be more beneficial (unless you have it on a carpet). With a bottom> top airflow the only "danger" is a hot air pocket above the gpu, but I think the aircooler would do a good job at stirring up that area. If you have some other case with a restrictive front the 120mm corsair might do a better job at pulling air inside, since 120s tend to have better pressure.

From what I've seen switches can be disassembled and cleaned even without soldering. They are probably bitches to assemble afterwards, but it's an option. These small manufacturers tend to catch you like that. They have unique layouts, so you'll keep buying them. I had a Trust mouse with 6 buttons along the top edges (aside from RMB LMB MMB), and a rapoo with 3 on the side in a line. It's not too difficult to readjust to a new, more widely adopted layout (2 side, or 2 side+snipe), it takes only a few days. spc gear seems to be really popular in my area. I'd recommend the logitech g402, though I haven't tried it, plus it's pretty old (i have the g502, 603 and 303). Logitech g203, if it fits your hand. Steelseries rival 3 seems to be in your price range, it doesn't look bad. I always wanted to try the g300s, but somehow I end up buying more expensive mice every time.

I'm sure you have tried vertical mice (like logitech mx vertical), otherwise you wouldn't have come to this conclusion, right? Do gloves help with your issue? How about the way you rest your arm? I guess money is not an issue, since apparently you would be down to pay for a one-off metal mouse by a major manufacturer. If so maybe there's some artisan in your area who could fabricate a few metal inserts for your chosen mouse. I'm thinking thin copper or aluminum plates on the problematic surfaces. A few holes in the plastic parts, little legs/pins on the corners/ sides of the plates. Maybe some double sided tape. Aluminum foil attached with double sided tape??? (i really like this idea) You would need to do a very precise job and it would be pretty fragile, but I don't see any other issues with it. Cheap, fast, universal, and you get a mouse with metallic surface. I don't mean to be annoying, your situation is simply puzzling.

Judging by the pictures on this aliexpress listing, looks like the switches can be disassembled, maybe cleaned or otherwise repaired. Looks like you could clean the little contacts with alcohol and cue tips or cotton swabs. With some small pliers and needles you could even try to bend the spring part ever so slightly to restore the contact force. I think this could be done without soldering. The mouse is far from being easy to open (I've done it twice). It needs to be pried pretty hard in the right spots. This video might come in handy. you could also replace the switch. The same switch might be used in other buttons of the mouse. You could desolder one, if it's not crucial, or double clicking wouldn't bother you. The best option would be to buy someone's g502 with a working main switch. Otherwise you gotta order it (most likely from aliexpress or similar). Then you'll most likely have to desolder the old, then resolder the new switch. Needed: soldering iron, sponge, flux, solder, wick, screwdrivers (flat and philips), old credit cards or IDs. The better option might be to use sidecutters or something and simply break off the bad switch. PCB mounted parts can be much more difficult to remove than to install. Since orders from aliexpress take a long time to ship, in the mean time you could watch some of Louis Rossmann's videos to learn the basics of soldering (sometimes he uses hot air instead of an iron, but it's the same principle). Be careful while soldering switches, especially such small ones, they can easily melt. You gotta use lots of flux and don't heat the solder contacts any longer than necessary. fyi I repaired my middle button switch 2 times (I used to rage often). I repaired around 10 switches on my mechanical keyboard (bad batch of switches). I hate to trash electronics, especially when the faulty part is so simple and cheap. I hope I could help

i tried a cosmos, and i didn't like it, I bought it 35% off, but I still returned it. I don't think it's worth more than a used vive. The headset didn't fit me at all, the rubber thing at the nose left a huge gap under my eyes. I had to tighten the headband pretty strong, otherwise it would slide around on my head. It has a fan on the front which is pretty loud, and the headset still gets hot. The controllers are large and heavy. You need a PERFECT room for the tracking, specifically arranged for the cosmos. I guess it's gotta be large, with even bright lighting and lots of large textured areas. Setting up a play area took me 15 minutes of spinning around in my office room with plenty of lighting and lots of straight high contrast edges and corners. The cameras limit your movement a lot. I had to keep my arms uncomfortably far away from my body, which the heavy controllers don't help. I had to stare at the controllers for seconds every time I let them down near my side. The headset lost tracking every time I looked at my feet... tldr: the youtube reviews don't lie in this case.

you should either leave it to dry for a week or so, preferably in a warm environment (though not in direct sunlight), or disassemble it, dry it with a few papertowels or something, then leave it to dry for about a day (again, preferably in a warm environment, not in sunlight). Disassembly would most likely involve removing a few screws, maybe the rubber feet (which often stick right back on). My cm mk750 is really easy to take apart, I'd be surprised if the ck550 was more complicated.

that title killed me... you know what a title is, right?