Sanguinn

I did end up picking up the adapter, and tried a variety of configurations of how to hook everything up - each one ended up with something being sacrificed, glitchy, or completely broken. It's honestly ridiculous that some combination of Nvidia and Sony have managed to screw up what should be a simple "plug HDMI 2.1 cord in both ends" situation. In the end, I just swapped in a 20-series card instead (and ended up breaking a pin off of the the motherboard's USB 3 front panel header, good job me.) I would've preferred using the better card, if nothing else for the DLSS3 support for a little performance bump, because the rest of the computer is otherwise the oldest hardware I have, but this'll have to do for now. 4k/60, 8 bit colour, the full 24/192 audio to my surround sound, and VRR support for when I inevitably can't push the full 60 fps.

Yeah, it is actually. I'm not getting any of the picture-related problems mentioned in that thread (aside from being locked in game mode), but I'll definitely give CRU a shot to see if that does anything, and maybe buy a DP to HDMI 2.1 adapter while I'm at it.

I picked up a used 3060 Ti founder's edition to use with my HTPC, and I've found the audio stops working abruptly. It might be fine for ten minutes, or even an hour, but eventually it just stops entirely until a restart. It's set up for HDMI 2.1 to the TV (for 120/VRR support), then eARC from the TV to the receiver. For the moment, I've "solved" my problem by using a DP to HDMI cable to connect a second phantom monitor directly to the receiver, but that's causing its own issues. Google seems to find old posts of people discussing issues with brief sound drops, but those were apparently fixed with a past driver revision. If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears, I'd really like to get this working properly.

1005 is the most recent bios, but if that's the most likely culprit, I'll just keep my eye out for when it's updated again.

New build, and probably half of the time I try to turn the machine on, it functions perfectly fine - the other half, it doesn't even get to the point of posting or displaying anything, and the board displays a q-code of "8d". At that point, I just shut down by holding the power button, and try again, and it'll boot up normally within a few tries. Contacting Asus tech support got me a generic response telling me to check any error codes in the manual... after specifically saying 8d isn't in the manual, so I'm open to any suggestions. Strix X570-E Gaming, bios 1005 Ryzen 7 3800X GTX 1080 4x8 GB Vengeance RGB Pro at 3200 850W PSU Windows 10 Pro 64 bit

I'd guess it was a matter of making and uploading the video ahead of time with an NDA, so no doubt someone will fix the privacy setting soon. Or else Slick'll just get fired again, either way.

I've had a single pedal for my computer for a number of years now, and I absolutely love it (even just as the press-to-talk key for voice chat in a game, when I wanted to keep all my easily-accessible keys free.) Now I did it using a big metal Playstation 2 pedal (ie one designed for Time Crisis), and a PS2 to USB adapter, so this is a lot more elegant. I may actually just pick one of these up at some point - the extra functionality of making it 4-way wouldn't be half bad (ooh, ooh: pressing up as a sprint command!)

I'd suggest you either use self-adhesive M5 washers to make up the difference in height, or just skip using the screws altogether and attach it using Scotch 4010 (aka Tape of the Gods.) I really can't see trying to cut off the plastic risers to use as makeshift washers going well. As for foam tape, you could get a roll of Scotch mounting tape, or any of the poster/picture mounting squares that are effectively the same thing (although those usually have weaker adhesive.)

Alas, wasd only prints on the top of their keycaps. Now another more-DIY option for the budget-conscious would be to buy a standard-printed keyboard with a design you like (one with black keys, like a Quick Fire TK), buy a set of those adhesive letter decals (I think I saw an appropriately-small set in Staples recently), use those on the leading edge of the keys as a mask (like the Stealth), and paint them all white. Once you're done painting, just peel them off, and you've got your own black-on-white side-printed keys.

What you probably want to look for is UL1007 stranded wire, OD of less than 2mm (give or take); I'd agree with Windspeed and say check hardware or electrical supply stores first, but if that's not going to work out, there are plenty of places online that sell it too (finding one where the shipping cost isn't prohibitive for you, of course.)

That looks quite nice, but it should be noted that you only painted the frame there, not the blades. The problem is coating the blades with anything (even the thinnest layer of paint) can screw up the balance and aerodynamics, which can really come in to play when they're spinning at however-many hundred RPM. It's not impossible, certainly, but it's still a complicated endeavor; if it were me, I'd probably just try to find fans that fit the scheme I was looking for (or if the colours were workable, dying the plastic I suppose), rather than painting.

While the connector it uses is designed to fit the Spectre fans' LED plug, it's really just your standard push on/off switch, so it should be possible. If you connect the ground wire from your power source directly to the strip, and put that switch in the middle of the 12V connection (so pick a pair of the pins, then 12V power in -> one pin on the switch, other pin -> 12V connector on the LED strip), it should just complete the circuit when it's on, and work fine.

What I'm saying is... actually, I have all of this on hand, so I can just show you. With a cathode, all you get is UV light coming from it, so only the UV-reactive things in your case will glow (in this case, the tubing and the fan, and then unintentionally also the PCB of my graphics card there.) (The tubes/fan are UV blue, but the colour reproduction isn't great, so just take my word for it.) Anyway, with the LED strip, you'll get the benefits of using LEDs (brighter, flexible, no inverter, not prone to crapping out unexpectedly), but it casts violet light as well, and you get something like this: So the reactive stuff still lights up, but everything will have a purple-washed glow over it as well.

Unfortunately Phobya's UV strips do have a purple cast, and aren't only UV like you'd get with a cathode (although given how cathodes are dull, annoying to work with, and prone to just randomly dying, it's still a no-brainer.) So just something to keep in mind - even with only components that react blue, it's still going to be within a glow of (non-ultra) violet.

I wasn't sure this quite fit with the current "coolant" discussion topic, so into a fresh topic it goes. Right now as coolant, I'm using ultrapure water (RO from a laboratory), mixed with DazMode's Protector additive (something with ethelyne glycol, which they say acts as a biocide and a corrosion inhibitor). I recently picked up a bottle of Feser View UV dye (which the product page specifically says it's compatible with), and I'm using Feser tubing. Still haven't added it yet (holding off until my lighting shows up) - is just the dye itself likely to have any negative effects on the loop?