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ElectricUrinal

Member
  • Content Count

    18
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About ElectricUrinal

  • Title
    Newbie
  • Birthday April 12

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    USA
  • Interests
    Music and Science
  • Biography
    Trained as a scientist but worked as a musician. Now trained as a musician and work as a scientist.
  • Occupation
    Scientist/Musician

System

  • CPU
    Intel Devil's Canyon i7-4790K
  • Motherboard
    MSI Z97 Gaming 7
  • RAM
    G.Skill Ripjaws X-Series 16gb @ 2133
  • GPU
    EVGA SuperClocked GTX770
  • Case
    CoolerMaster Storm Trooper
  • Storage
    Plextor M.2 256GB SSD/Samsung 850 Pro SSD 256GB
  • PSU
    Seasonic 80+ Gold 850watt
  • Display(s)
    LG 42LB6300
  • Cooling
    Zalman CNPS9900MAX-R
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 RGB
  • Mouse
    Logitech G700s
  • Sound
    Onboard - Soundcraft Mixer - QSC Power Amps - ElectroVoice Qrx PA Speakers
  • Operating System
    Windows 8.1 Pro
  1. Oooh! Good call on the RAM. I'll pull a stick, try it... then the other... to see if it boots.
  2. I installed Folding@home to run on my extra "kitchen computer"... an AMD Phenom II 940 with a GTX560 running WinVistaUltimate. It was running fine for over a week 24/7 on "LOW" with CPU temps around 54c and about 25% utilization. One day I did a PC restart and the machine shuts itself off at the BIOS screen. It will not get into Windows. What may have happened? What hardware components are being taxed the most with this program? Should I suspect a fried MOBO, or perhaps a PS? Or even the GPU? I have tried resetting BIOS to factory settings with jumper. Still gets to BIOS screen (sometimes it doesn't even get that far) and just powers itself completely off. Anyone have issues like this related to F@H or similar unrelated issues?
  3. I want to get a Corsair K65 RGB and a seperate numpad with mechanical switches (run about15-30 bux) this way I can have a cleaner desk while I don't need the numpad (and have my mouse hand and WASD hand closer together when gaming) and just drag numpad out from under my monitor ledge when I need it.
  4. YES! TekSyndicate... not Linus. Sorry. Got my gear gurus confused for a min. I saw the comments too... then rewatched the vid.
  5. There was a dead LED on the one examined by Linus in his vid. I bet you 20 bux that they are still having dead LED issues they are trying to sort out... since they told us it would be fixed. Too bad for Corsair. I just ordered the rest of my parts for my new PC and their keyboard wasn't on the list. Bummer for them.
  6. I'm waiting too. But I can't order the rest of my parts for another week anyway. So I hope it's close to ready when I'm ready. Personally, the color control is a free perk. The main reason I'm waiting for this particular keyboard is for the improved LED longevity. The previous non-RGB ones were known to have dead LEDs fairly soon with normal use. This version is supposed to improve that greatly. That's worth it to me. The color system bonus territory.
  7. The color system is a nice added bonus. I would just as quickly get a regular K70 with brown switches if the new RGB didn't have the newly designed switch with the LED internally shielded. Everyone has dead LEDs on their K70s and 95s. This is supposed to reduce that significantly. That's why I want it over the others. The color control is a free perk in that sense.
  8. Im gona program mine to spell out "Imabigmac". Then program it to melt whenever Boy George is in the news. That's worth $40 right there.
  9. I dunno. The graph shows Beats with a flat response at +5dB from 200hz to about 20hz whereas the Beyers do not have a flat resoponse in this region... they have a healty dip between 20hz and 80hz which is a critical zone for impact-laden bass. Sure, the Beyer's has extended reponse below 20hz whereas the Beats roll off, but that doesn't matter. You aren't hearing that anyway. I say dude is right when he says the Beats are bass heavy. I've never listened to them, but based on the graph (if it's accurate), it's not hard for the trained individual to see that.
  10. I was considering this as a solution to my problem. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0U00925273 Just wondering if anyone had used it... or a better idea for my situation that I described.
  11. That would work if I didn't already have a digital output. My thought is that since the digital signal is pretty much impervious to noise, I should get it away from the case before converting it. I was just wondering about the quality of the linked unit... if anyone had used one in this manner before. Seems to be impossible to find a line-level analog multichannel HD audio source these days. Thanks piracy. :angry: Of course I could simply buy a modern receiver... but geez... I have all this high-end professional sound gear already that would eat anything's lunch for breakfast. Gota be a way I can get what I'm looking for. Thanks for helping.
  12. They are MDR-7509. I like em. Pads are typical Sony and flake off soon. But the material underneath is better anyway. Plus, they apparently don't make them anymore.
  13. Sony MDR-7509. They are tight, crisp, and clean. Handles a lot of bass, but doesn't artificially overproduce it for your ears. Professional level gear, but not overly expensive because of it.... $200 or so. You see them on the heads of about every Hollywood movie director on a set because they deliver accuracy with power.
  14. I was wondering if any of the users of this forum may have experience in this sort of thing. Right now, I'm using on-board sound in 5.1 mode and running the analog outputs to 6 different channels on a Soundcraft PA mixer. I am able to route each of the 6 channels to their own amplifier channel (QSC PLX 3602s), and speakers (EV Qrx Mid/High boxes,EV Qrx 118 Subfoofer and Klipsch center channel). Yes, the sound is powerful enough to disembowel a water buffalo. The problem with doing this is the mixer hears every whine, wheeze, buzz, tick, and glitch that is apparent in all PC audio solutions no matter how sophistocated. One way I thought to relieve this problem is to use a digital to analog converter connected to the sound card's digital output, and convert to analog as far away from the case as possible using a device like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3XT1DD0689&cm_re=digital_to_5.1_analog-_-9SIA3XT1DD0689-_-Product And feeding the analog outputs to my mixer as usual. Has anyone tried this? Is it a viable solution? I am a retired soundman and have this perfectly good gear laying around and may as well put it to use. I didn't specifically purchase it for PC use, but it would be nice if I can make use of my existing (very nice) gear and maximize my experience with some helpful advice. Thanks in advance.
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