David1521

Nevermind they don't run android so I can't use my tidal or spotify playlists... wtf... I have the shure 846s but just want a better dap than the shitty one on my note 8 and I don't want to have to strap anything to my phone, I want it separate and I want the best one available. The best one I can find is the onkyo DP-X1A within those conditions, but it's only 500 dollars... and it's old it's from 2016 and runs android 5.1.1. Is there anything newer and better out? There's also the fiio x7 but it's made in china...

Just want to ask before I accidently spend 100 dollar less or more.

I just got my Shure 846's and they sound great but not as perfect as the reviews indicated, and definitely not better than my Audeze iSINE 20 but I knew that going in since they're smaller, and noise isolating. Which is what I wanted and they do quite well. I do Not want to use an attachment dac and amp because I currently use the oppo HA-2 along with an iphone 6 but it's very inconvenient to carry around both and recharge both all the time and deal with apple constantly asking me to reverify my apple id. I have a note 8 as well, but apparently with any android smartphone with usb type c using a specifically advertised usb c to micro usb for dac otg cable it will work, but it will also drain my phone's battery and charge the dac/amp at the same time which is annoying and I googled it and there's no fix yet. And I don't feel like waiting around for something likely to never be fixed because there is such a small demand because I'm in such a small demographic of specific kind of audiophiles, ie I travel a lot. So I'm looking at portable music players, that would best fit both the shure 846's and the audeze iSINE20, also preferably the oppo pm-3s. I have found 2 so far that I like, I'd like to keep the price under $1500, I want something that works specifically with downloaded songs on both Tidal and Spotify that sounds the best. Astell&Kern AK240 @1279 on amazon and the Onkyo DP-X1A at 488.97 on amazon. What I really want to know is whether or not astell&kern players in that price range are mere snake oil or are actually noticably better.

Looks a lot like him.

Alright I just contacted the seller, we'll see what they say. Thank you!

I just got a LG OLED E7. I have one dead pixel near the top right hand corner of my screen that I noticed after the first day of use, and because when I was on these forums and saw people had dead pixels I wanted to check mine, (I got it yesterday). Seeing as I only have one dead pixel though and the pixel is always just always black, maybe it's not so bad and if I can get over my OCD about it? Granted I bought it brand new "factory sealed" off of eBay from a reputable seller with 800+ reviews and 100% review ratings. I bought a warranty for it through Assurant Protection Plan for 2 years though, so my question is, since, at my viewing distance of about 7 feet I can't notice it at all on normal/darker images and only if I'm looking really really hard for it on really bright images, should I call in the warranty? Contact the seller? Contact LG? Or should I wait for a year and a half and call in the warranty then? What should I do? And if I do get a replacement is it likely to have dead pixels too?It's just really annoying since my it's less than a day old and already has a dead pixel. Would LG, or my warranty, or ebay, front me a new TV before having to return the old one or not? Would I have to send it back first and then wait for the replacement? This is the terms and conditions for my Assurant protection plan. https://marketplaceqa.assurantprotectionplans.com/assurant---terms-and-conditions-v7 "Advanced Exchange Service Option - If We determine Your Product is eligible for the Advanced Exchange Service Option, at Our sole discretion, We will provide You with a new or refurbished product of like kind and quality upon determining a covered failure on Your original Product. Upon dispatch of service, We may collect an unrecovered equipment fee of up to $550 and ask You to send Us Your originally covered Product. A box will be shipped to You with a pre-paid postage label to deliver Your original Product back to Us. Upon receipt of Your originally covered Product, We will refund the unrecovered equipment fee to You in full. If You do not return Your originally covered Product within 10 days after receipt of Your replacement product, the unrecovered equipment fee will not be refunded to You. "

Lol ok, thanks!

Is this true?

I already addressed that in my post.

Ok so that accounts for 35 gigs of the 88 missing. Where's the remaining 53 gigs? Btw I updated my post to include what you asked for.

First of all I cleared all my restore points I only had 4.6 gigabytes, I ran Disk Cleanup and clicked cleanup system files and deleted everything over a gig. I also ran CCleaner and deleted a lot of temporary files through that. I went to local disk and clicked show hidden folders and files, and I right clicked and clicked properties on each of those folders and added up the total, it was just under 240 gigabytes. My local disk says that it has 147 gigabytes free of 475. I have a Samsung 950 pro m.2 drive so I really don't want to have to buy a 1 tb one in the near future. I deleted all the games that I don't play often off of it as well. 475-147 is 328, NOT 240 like it should be. So I looked it up online and on a form somewhere they were told to install TreeSize which is a program that's free for 30 days, to see where all the files are that are taking up storage. So I did that, and here is a screenshot of it. I looked through everything and this is the only suspicious data that I see, but it still doesn't account for the entire 88 gigs (240-328) missing. Do I have a virus? I have malwarebytes pro and antiexploit malware bytes and kaspersky antivirus and I'm running an i7 6800k and gtx 1080 with 64 gigs of ram and an Asus Rampage 5 extreme edition 10 mobo with all drivers installed and a password protected UEFI bios, and 64 gigs of ram. I shouldn't have a virus right? But what other explanation is there for that missing data? Here is how much it says when I click properties on my explorer and see how much data is being used, but when I go into Drive C and right click on each folder and click properties and add up all the folder sizes it equals just under 240 gigs:

Ok thank you, I guess I will just have to get an external enclosure.

Ok thank you. I guess I will just get an external enclosure

I had bad experience with cloning software in the past, can you suggest one that actually works well?

Ok but what do I put on the new sshd so it will work once it's in?

So I googled it and no one has currently done this yet and posted it online that I can find. Firstly, I preordered the Xbox One X so I could play games with my friends who can't afford a gaming PC, so don't dis on why I have one please. I bought a seagate 2tb 2.5 inch sshd firecuda, and am wanting to swap out the current "1tb, more like 776gb" hard drive with this new "2tb" sshd. I have done this on my ps4 pro before because there were instructions online on how to do it. I was hoping someone could tell me what firmware I need to download onto the sshd for the xbox one x before I can swap it in. And where can I find the download? Also, could someone tell me what I am supposed to unscrew to be able to access the hard drive? P.S. I don't want to get an external hard drive because USB 3.0 is slower than Sata III.

I went out with a girl who at some point during our conversation was explaining to me how she finally figured out how to open the CD drive on her mom's computer, because she was trying to install the new webcam she got... she also knew nothing about computers and seemed kinda dumb in general... needless to say I didn't go out with her again (I'm a guy though so I did still do stuff with her, because why not?).

Ok thanks, so could you tell if I'd notice a decent difference between the sub 12 and the R-112SW?

I have a car amp that's easily accessible would that work to test it? It's a Hertz HDP 1, I'd just need and left and right rca cable and plug it into the pre-out on my car amp right? I'm getting this subwoofer for my home theater system though.

Should I get the Klipsch SUB-12 Subwoofer (Amazon link as well) for $150 on Facebook Marketplace? I see reviews for it all the way from February 16th 2008, so 9 years ago. I was wondering if I should get this or wait for one of Klipsch's sales either Black Friday or Christmas and get the newer R-112SW SUBWOOFER for around $400 I'm guessing based off of their previous sales according to camelcamelcamel price tracker on amazon. I can easily afford the more expensive one but I'm wondering would I be throwing away 300 dollars if I got it? I don't care about whether or not they have similar output, I know they're basically the same. What I want to know is what will the quality be like from a 9 year old subwoofer? Is it going to be noticably different from if I got the R-112SW instead?

What's your budget like?

Get the Samsung CHG70 32 inch, it doesn't have gsync but it's bigger and cheaper and is quantom dot with HDR and 144hz and 1ms response time, worth it.

Oh, nevermind then I thought you were college. sorry

You're taking out a student loan right? Say you're getting it for the sRGB color space so you can work on your photoshop designs for class and you require a large high resolution monitor with a good color gamut. They should pay for it.

bigger is always better when it comes to gaming, especially if you play first person shooters it allows you to see players further away a lot more easily. I just ordered the samsung chg70 because it's a 32 inch monitor and under 700 dollars. Just put it on financing.