impledob

So you gattered the guts to open your laptop and applied some LM to improve with thermal performance?
Great but further down the road you see your temperatures going vulcanic and you open your laptop only to see that you LM dissolved into the Copper heatsink?
And now? the stain doenst go away, you hit it with sandpaper but its still there. You decide that you dont want that stuff anymore in your laptop and switch back to normal silicon based TIM.
Why? 

So im 23 year ol Hardware-Killing-Enthusiast that hasnt succeded yet. 
I apply LM everywhere, my i5 6500 (non-k) is running at 4,49ghz with 1.31v at the mid 60 degrees hitting it with prime95. 
Cooled by an arctiv freezer 13 i've purchased for 13€ on amazon. 
My old Laptop ran LM, my friends pc i bulid is running lm.

As the days went i by and i got dull of my old Asus g750jh and all of its chunkiness i wanted something thin and light. 
So i did the only rasonable thing and bought a Macbook off ebay.
A 2015 15" Macbook Pro A1398 with core i7 4850HQ 16gb RAM and the Radeon 370 something something for 1000€.

I do really like it especially the force touch trackpad (that still blows every windows one out of the water) and its 16:10 hig-res screen.
Something out of the windows wolrd with comperable key aspects like high res 15" screen with a taller aspect ratio as 16:9 (like a surface laptop or book) would set you back more money for less performance.
Yea i could get the Surface Book 15" with a 1060 but that thing is completly glued shut and i wanted to keep my kidneys. 
Sooooo i chose a Macbook.

The battery still runs fine with it 650 cycles+ giving me 4-5h unplugged. 
The only thing bothering me where the thermals and yea i get the irony. 
Who could be so dense to buy a macbook and complain about it thermasl afterwards? The answer is: Me!

So i opened it up, removed about 5kg of dust and changed the TIM to arctix MX4. It helped, it actually helped a lot.
But who am i telling it the thermals are still shit. 
By typing yes > /dev/null 8 times into the terminal you can stress all 8 cores of your CPU and by also running heaven you can sear a steak on that thing.
90 degress at both fans max rpm while boosting to 3.3ghz - toasty and loud.
Naturally i wanted to LM it, but thinkind "This is a macbook, you cant just smear that stuff into it. You gotta do things right"


So lets finish the headline shall we:
So you liquid metaled your laptop but did you nickelplate your cooler?




Quick run down on how to, it isnt really that hard.

You need:
PURE Nickel - i used Nickel wound guitar strings ( only the outer winding is pure nickel, the core is steel) 
A Jar -  I used one from hot doggs as it was tall enough for my heat sink
A Powesupply - Preferably high voltage, maybe 20v from am laptop charger it needs to be DC (Direct current!)
Wires to connect everything and maybe some crocodile clips
AA Batteries 
Vinegar - Plain old Vinegar with at leas 5% acid
Some Salt

Wiring up:
Unwind your Nickel and coil it up so that its about 10-15 cm in lengt and looks like a stick.
You need two Nickel sticks.
Connect both positive and negative to your nickel sticks (anothe and kathode for scientific terms)
Pour your vinegar into the jar and add the electrodes (your nickel sticks). Watch that they dont touch each other.

Making your Nickel Acetate: (The goo you gonna nickel plate with)
Check again that your electrodes (nickel sticks) dont touch and power up your psu.
Add a bit of salt to increase the electrical conductivity of your vinegar.
A BIT OF SALT
till you see a fair amount off bubbels coming from one of your electrodes.
The bubbleing electrode is your negative, mark this one somehow.
 Wait till your solution turns green. (takes time, about 4-6h for me with 19v PSU)
Like this:

You may see that one of your nickel sticks gets completly dissolved (this is perfectly normal as the nickel is now in the vinegar, replace it)

Preparing your part:
Clean the surface you wanna plate, maybe polish it but make sure there is no oils, fats, oxydation or any other shit on that.

Plating:
Take out the electrodes, you can plate with the PSU if you want but it wont give you the best results.
Attach some wire to your AA Battery (idk get creative i used tape and two in parallel but you dont need to)


Now connect your positive to your nickel anode (nickel stick) and your part to negative
Put them into the Nickel Acetate (the green goo you just made)
Make sure they dont touch and that everything you wanna plate is submerged:

Wait
give it 10 Minutes, the part should bubble sligthly.

Done
Congratulations you did it!



Now be dissapointed about your thermal results as temps only dropped 4-5 C at Syntetic load with fans on max.


Side by side:

 
FAQ:

My Nickel Rubbs away: aka iam to dump to clean my part.

Aluminium? No, it wont work with aluminium. For all i know you need to copper plate your aluminium first. (Same process but with copper electrodes and your goo should turn out blue)

No you shouldnt drink it, dont even ask. its poisonous.

Ask your local garbage disposal, dont pour it down the drain. 

My Solution is cloudy and or not green: your nickel wasnt pure. try a diffrent source.

My part looks all black and burnt: you used to much voltage and got the elecetrodes to close

Help i died in the process? you may inhaled chlorine gase because you put waaay to much salt in it.

It doesnt taste at all like mountain dew? Take another sip or listen to me that you shouldt drink it its poisonous. 

My solution turned out yellow? you peed in it didnt you? or you bought nickel platet steel stripps of amazon as i did in my first try. 

can you check ur CPU temps during the test see you can see if it throtles

You are right to not trust Task Manager's report of GHz, it is often very wrong

1. Do you know if the X5670's were function to begin with.
2. Does the current BIOS version support those chips?
3. Normally bad RAM will result in a repeated beep code.
 
That's about all I got.

I've always prefered it just used to the programs and more games are optimised for nvidia

Literarly have that.

Im pretty sure skylake only supports DDR4 as on the main motherboards DDR3 is not listed anywhere in compatibility. Also RAM is just storage. It cannot "slowly kill a CPU", thats just not how computers work (except in the case in overclocking, you technically are slowly killing it). 

Well, ive mostly been looking at Corsair cases, but id say the 400C and 200R seems pretty good.

I have read from a couple people that the newest Nvidia driver is buggy. See if you can boot into safe mode and roll back to the previous driver. Plug your monitor into the motherboard if you have to.

Enter Windows through safe mode, uninstall graphics driver, restart again into safe mode, reinstall graphics driver. Try that. Good luck!

For Windows 7, hold F8 when starting up.
For Windows 8.1/10, try holding F8 + Shift when starting up. This goes into recovery mode which you then go into safe mode. (May not work)

Try to boot into save mode to see if it is hardware or driver related. If you see a desktop in safe mode its probably a driver issue.

Hi,
Whats this red line thing next to those files? 
And how to get rid of it?

 
 

That should be more than fine assuming your GPU is not a power hog  
Alright you might be stuck at 2.8 then which is not all that bad, if you want to mess around with it more you might get lucky but it seems that motherboard is what is going to limit you. Is there any other voltage options in the bios?

Are you downloading a game at the moment? If so pause it and set up the new library in preferences.

Nobody thinks the pentium is going to bottleneck the GPU?

i got 4.8GHz out of my FX8350 + Asus M5A97 EVO R2.0 with 6+2 powerphase and digi vrm.
 
It depends a bit on your motherboard, The Msi has not realy the best quality vreg components in general.
And i have seen allot of overclocking tests, that as soon as you get pass 4.6GHz, the vrm´s and mosfets start to run hot like crazy.
Msi 970 gaming board does have a smart protect feuture build in.
But 1.6V is way to high, 1.5V ish, is arround normal for 5.0 GHz.
But your motherboard is not capable enough, Msi also does not use digi vrm´s, which makes it harder to control peak voltages, and fine tuning an overclock.
 
If you realy want super high overclocks like 5.0GHz + then i´m starting to talk about real overclockers motherboard.
Like the Asus crosshair V Formula Z, or Asrock 990FX Extreme 9.
And forget about any other motherboard.

1.5V is really the max you should go for 24/7...so check how high a multiplier you can get stable with those volts...it should be around 4.5/4.6ghz indeed...and as i said, it really won't change much...i know i owned one and the performance on these just doesnt scale well with increased clockspeed...added power consumption and heat output alone void the benefit of overclocking old AM3+ shit IMHO.
 
Anyways it's not the board that prevent you from being stable at 5ghz it's the CPU itself...1.6v is a lot more volts than what should be sent through that chip...if it's not doing then it never will even with the best board...currently your board is capable of supplying that kind of power to your CPU...the fact that your board run cheaper voltage regulation modules might mean the board will have to trottle down the CPU clock to prevent meltdown under prolonged workload...but it won't prevent your CPU to run stable at such high voltages.

Just keep what you have, and enjoy it while it lasts. There is just no point in upgrading to a new motherboard, because of diminishing returns and the fact it's a dead socket...

if you are going to advertise yourself for corporate goons, at least  buy amd hoodie, they need the money

its in stock here http://www.amazon.com/MSI-DDR3-Motherboards-Z97-G55-SLI/dp/B00K23BVXU

Despite that article, anyone will tell you overclocking with a stock cooler is a big no no, and I agree with them.

Get a better psu. Perhaps SeaSonic SSR-650RM, EVGA 220-G2-0750-XR, SeaSonic X660 Gold, or Corsair HX650.

The H100i is nice aesthetically and obviously cools the CPU nicely, but truth is it's not going to get you much different performance than something like a 212 Evo or a Shadow Rock 2. That is overspending right there, if you want it because you just want it, it's ok just not cost/effective at all.
Don't get the Noctua PPC fans, they are expensive thanks to their water/dust resistance, that doesn't make a difference on a PC case. The Noctua Redux 140mm fans are $12 bucks on NCIX, get those, quality is the same,  cooling results very similar and is less than half the price.

I'd suggest the 8GB of 1600MHz memory. RAM speeds don't usually make too much of a difference, especially when you're playing games.