NeverNotExhausted

@Levent Got a good chuckle out of your signature 🤣

Seems like pretty normal Steam behavior. Steam's client is Chromium based, so it would make sense for it to mess with Chrome while it does it's thing

I'd be surprised if you didn't have control over RAM speeds on an ASUS TUF series laptop. It's a pretty basic feature on most BIOS's

If a system wont boot because of memory incompatibility then it will usually default to a known compatible profile.
 
You won't be able to push past 2400Mhz using XMP, you'll have to do it manually if you want to try higher clocks

The 240 rad is for the whole system CPU+GPU ? 
Too small to cool the 300W power needed imo, I had both 280+360 to cool 400W (5900X + 3080), that's like 3 times more surface and airflow and temps were good...
 

1. outdated BIOS
2. outdated OS
3. outdated drivers
4. terrible bloatware
 
I found the first two to be way more common causes.

Given that CPU-Z is showing 25mb of L3 cache, I'd say you've got the E5-2667 V4. Main difference being that you have a slightly lower turbo frequency and more cache. The 2667 also has support for 2S servers as well, while the 1660 is limited to 1S. Which isn't really applicable to your use case by the looks of it.
 
I'd be more inclined to think it's an error on CPU-Z's part? Either way I wouldn't really be worrying about it

Here's where you can see more about the chip you have: https://hwbot.org/hardware/processors#key=xeon_e5_2667_v4

One of my team members (Aleslammer) is shown with it here.

Apparently the CPU-Z database doesn't have it registered properly but what you are seeing appears consistent to what others are showing. 

Yeah, I tried both HWiNFO and Aida64, both reported it as a 2667 v4

Given that CPU-Z is showing 25mb of L3 cache, I'd say you've got the E5-2667 V4. Main difference being that you have a slightly lower turbo frequency and more cache. The 2667 also has support for 2S servers as well, while the 1660 is limited to 1S. Which isn't really applicable to your use case by the looks of it.
 
I'd be more inclined to think it's an error on CPU-Z's part? Either way I wouldn't really be worrying about it

Given that CPU-Z is showing 25mb of L3 cache, I'd say you've got the E5-2667 V4. Main difference being that you have a slightly lower turbo frequency and more cache. The 2667 also has support for 2S servers as well, while the 1660 is limited to 1S. Which isn't really applicable to your use case by the looks of it.
 
I'd be more inclined to think it's an error on CPU-Z's part? Either way I wouldn't really be worrying about it

You're fine with the PSU you have. It's not going to get anywhere those peak calculated loads during gaming. I always advocate for having some headroom "just in case", but your PSU isn't going to cause you issues

Linus has mentioned a few times that the channel just wasn't doing well. They've tried to revive it a few times to no avail.
 
iirc Dennis is also no longer working on channel super fun and is now working on colabs with sponsors
 

Linus has mentioned a few times that the channel just wasn't doing well. They've tried to revive it a few times to no avail.
 
iirc Dennis is also no longer working on channel super fun and is now working on colabs with sponsors
 

I had this same issue with an MSI B550m Pro-VDH WiFi recently. turns out it was a dead BIOS. Try using the BIOS Flashback with a USB stick if your model of motherboard has the feature. If that doesn't work then it might be time for an RMA.

I think I know how you know this... 🤣
 
I picked up some carbon PETG to play with and a steel nozzle and wasted a 250g spool trying to figure out why I couldn't get it to work properly

Gotta crank that nozzle temp up my guy. Try crank the nozzle temp to 245-250. Your printer should have a PEI bed out of the box IIRC. I find warming the bed up to a fairly low temp (40-45 degrees), rubbing a little bit of glue stick to the bed, and then spreading it out with Methylated Spirits works really well for bed adhesion. Also cleaning your bed regularly with Methylated Spirits helps lots. Oil from your hands and dust/dirt will cause issues as it builds up.
 
If the issue is happening after printing 1cm or so then maybe also look at turning your fan speeds down a bit, I only really ever run my fans at 30 percent when printing ABS/ASA, and don't have them on at all for the start of a print

I had this same issue with an MSI B550m Pro-VDH WiFi recently. turns out it was a dead BIOS. Try using the BIOS Flashback with a USB stick if your model of motherboard has the feature. If that doesn't work then it might be time for an RMA.

Yeah you'll be fine, I have the black version and have my gpu mounted in the top slot. I have 8-9mm of clearance between the backplate of the gpu and the cooler

Yeah I actually just realized that just before I got the notification from your comment 😅

Don't mind me. I'm honestly so sleep deprived at this point (73 hours awake and counting). I read his post and checked the parts list and took OP's quote of "My current PC would essentially be chucked in a cheap ITX Case" as they were going to transplant their current setup into a new ITX case, then buy a new ITX rig to put their current ITX case. I also missed the fact that the parts list had an ATX motherboard even though I opened a listing for it to look at the specs.
 
I'm just going to show myself the door and keep trying to sleep 😅
 
 

Whichever ones you do buy, try to get one with:
Upgradeable memory or storage Easily repairable components If buying used, look for latitudes and thinkpads. Buy them, run battery and storage health checks, and replace the components that aren't working as well. Buy a used one preferably from dell or lenovo, since replacing used parts is cheaper for them. You can score pretty good machines, if you are willing to keep an eye out, since many IT departments wholesale dump them into warehouses and cause momentary crashes in price for a few weeks.
 
For new, I have heard good things about thinkpads and am daily driving a new one. Vostros and latitudes are good too. Asus is good if you want something thin. Don't buy HP or lenovo ideapads, because their low end machines cut corners in really bad ways(shit batteries, storage etc etc)
 
And also wipe your copy of windows and reinstall. The amount of crapware that manufacturers load on budget machines is obscene.

You're playing with fire there. A good single drive these days is fast enough that going to RAID 0 isn't going to be noticeable 99 percent of the time.
 
If you're set on going RAID 0 make sure your drives have a good warranty and you have a good backup system in place

"Futureproofing" is kind of a myth. Just buy the best parts you can afford and then hope that the software you run doesn't outpace it any time soon

Not complicated at all, on Apple silicone I don't believe it's possible to create a live USB, but given you're running an Intel based Mac that will make life easier for you. You should find a ton of info online on how to make a live-bootable USB drive for Linux. If you haven't had much exposure to Linux I find Ubuntu is a fairly easy to navigate OS that you'll find a ton of documentation on how to create a Windows install drive on.
 
I just found this article on creating a Linux Live USB drive, looks like a good starting point for you How to Create a Bootable Linux Live USB on Your Mac (howtogeek.com)