Bertovzki

You dont need to buy any more fittings than  you would for flexi tubing , i just use C47 Bitspower multi link and just bend my tube where i want it to go , with EK HD 10/12  rigid , and you can do really tight bends if you make a decent jig , i find the monsoon kit , not tight enough , i did some good tight bends with it , but i find now my new jig 30 mm radius to be a good compromise between tight 90" and not too tight that the tube will deform , flatten. 

I dont like seeing lots of fittings in a loop , i only like to see a fitting at the start point of a run of tubing , ie. one fitting on a CPU out , to one fitting on radiator in .

Rigid is however a steep learning curve , and much harder for tight bends , takes skill and practice , it is rigid that got me into aesthetics in a PC , never was interested before , now i love the look of rigid done right , and it must be square sharp 90" accurate or it does not look good.

This is my first attempt at rigid bending and the only 3 tubes i have ever done , i am an novice , but i did one very tight multi bend with part of my new jig  , as a test and it works very well and made a very accurate complex bend with it ,( need to use a table saw to finish my jig )

  was going to load pics but i see it is a hasstle on this site , i have to re size photos , 750D club on OCN if you want to see.

I would consider the EK-xres 140 D5 vario/pump combo because it's little smaller and you have more mounting options. Like you said, you don't have much space.

I already have the Photon 270 ,I was asking if anyone else had it and what they think of flow in the Res inself, as the design means most of the fluid bypasses the res, because of the baffle  I'v not installed mine yet, waiting for GPU before I can start.

Hi , I have a question about the res : I have one ,and not installed yet, I hear disturbing newz that the water in the res hardly moves at all, as in does not contribute to the loop , but sits in the res like a big bottle of water ,being just that a big bottle of water, and takes hours to cycle ,like if you put dye in it stays in res for hours before moving through the loop , because of the design.

How do you find it, are you happy with it, does it seem to sit stagnant in the loop and not move ?

Hi , I have a question about the res : I have one ,and not installed yet, I hear disturbing newz that the water in the res hardly moves at all, as in does m=not contribute to the loop , but sits in the res like a big bottle of water ,being just that a big bottle of water, and takes hours to cycle ,like if you put dye in it stays in res for hours before moving through the loop , because of the design.

How do you find it, are you happy with it, does it seem to sit stagnant in the loop and not move ?

No rad ever has the fresh copper look on the inside,if its XSPC then the rad will be clean inside,no doubts there.

Cool, good to hear thanks B

Mayhems products require certain measures be taken,heavy duty acid washes of rads etc. None of these things are good for your equipment.

 

 

You will see many examples of fluid going bad online but Mick still maintains they have had no problems,this I find hard to ignore.....

 

 

I'm a firm believer of just water and a biocide,best performance and least maintainence.

 

Also,after seeing TTL's black coolant also turn brown and the attitude of Mick when confronted about it means I cannot recommend those products in good concience.

 

 

 

 

as for the dye breakdown,the test i saw was done in a glass,not in loop,so plasticizer wasnt a contributing factor. You are correct about plasticizer being the main cause of problems,traditional tube is just garbage. To say dye in itself isnt a problem if incorrectly used is incorrect.

 

 

I currently have the base white pastel as it comes from Ice Dragon in a loop for the last 2 months...so if that's the look you want then that's all I can recommend

Ok thanks for the feed back , bit of a buma to hear that you have no confidence in Mayhems, I dont know any of the other brands, Iv just herd a lot of preference to mayhems.

This makes the decision harder then, the problem is I do really like the UV look ,or at least a pastel green or red or something.

I guess its at my own risk then and I just may have a clean up job of CPU block and tubes, hopefully not my glass res too 

My XSPC RX 360 Rad arrived today, looks great on outside, but inside,looks half silver half copper, and very minor looking surface corrosion ,not at all bad, but looks like minor oxidization ,maybe from water residue from factory pressure testing ?

unless i'm being paranoid, but its definitely not a fresh copper look 

Distilled and a biocide is superior all round,you do not need an anti-corro although it doesn't hurt to use one.

 

 

 

As for the clouded tube..BC is not the first to complain about reaction with Mayhems.

 

However...all the clear tube out right now is junk,why do you think I went to great trouble to get acrylic tubing as the standard..

 

 

 

To the guy above me..you are very wrong,add copper sulphate biocide to a glycol premix and watch the dye clump and clog,its been proven,I even have the pics showing it in action. Please strive to be correct and not sound like so much of an ass?

So I dont make an " ass "of a choice then B negative, what would you suggest for my Acrylic tube loop, to minimalize any staining and gunk build up, given I want UV effect if possible and a green colour or maybe clear blue ?

Im guessing starting with distilled water and bioside and what dye ?

Im asking because I respect your opinion, but now a little confused, as I thought from all the feed back and forums that Mayhems is best, but I have just been reading , Overclockers.net : Acrylic pipe bending 101 page 15,and you say in reference to the dudes chocolate coloured coolant :   " No,thats what happens when you use Mayhems. full stop. "  what does this mean, that mayhems is just trash and stay away ?

First of all I am a rookie and appreciate any feedback, But your reply seems only to back up every thing I said, its the clear flexi tubing and the mix of other elements together and not the dye alone that cause clogging, it doesn't seem logical that an extremely small amount of matter (dye powder ) can cause a much larger buildup of gunk, it must be platicizer ? and other things ?

I still havnt decided on my coolant ,I don't no what is best yet, I was thinking just distilled water , bioside and I do like blood red ,but will stain too much, also like Green/yellow or clear blue, I like the UV effect, not sure if its worth extra maintenance 

Iv not bought any dye or tube yet, still researching and reading forums, I want to go acrylic and a UV dye , like green, but want to know if it will stain acrylic ( red will probably because the dye is very powerful stainer. )

even though I have no experience what so ever with any custom loop ( its my first to come soon )

But I am a painter by trade and now work with mixing paint formulas , and one thing i can say with absolute certainty is there is absolutely no way in hell a dye will ever cause gunk build up ,its laughable , the amount of powder to make an extremely strong 10 ltr mix , would be so infinitesimally small to the eye it would be totally undetectable even with a magnifying glass if it were concentrated in one spot only. impossible !! implausible and busted !this is a fact

Also a fact from my reading of forums and user feed back and technical data from tube manufacturers, it is the very nature of the tube itself that makes it what it is. it is flexible !, this is because it has a plasticiser  in it and it is a known fact it leaches , I dont even need to see the evidence myself , logic alone tells me this is , as NRG states Plasiciser leaching by the share volume you talk about, it can only ever be platiciser and or oxidization from other metals in your loop, then stained by the dye !

Id probably not bothered to write ,but not only are you uneducated in your response BCMods , but you are abusive and out of line in, you have been warned for your abuse ,you say, but you just did it again , except in a phuken sidways indirect sort of way , you still called NRG a moron 

@ cpuxtech ,yes I can understand why you would think you can see dye weaving its evil magic when you see a single drop staining like crazy , this stuff is so damn potent, but it does not start from any sort of volume , large enough to do any cloging.

Now the Mayhems Pastel on the other hand, you would expect to do some major clogging, as it is so totally saturated with nano particles,and settles very quickly , but from what I read it seems thats as soon as your system is fired up they move again, and are also no problem.

The Mayhems forum on Overclockers.net is awesome , Id trust Mayhems over anything on the planet, purely just because the technical support is so awesome , Michaels time and effort to answer the communities questions in an unbiased open transparent factual way, is the best iv ever seen ,he is passionate about making the best product that can be made and doing it with all of us.

And on top of that , from what i read it is actually the best too , why would you use anything else, im sure as hell going to.

Ps . any feed back on Acrylic tubing and its staining or not aspect would be great , im probably going for the EK Supremacy CSQ clear CPU block too, or the full copper if staining is going to be too much of an issue, I know, pros n cons,I just love the clear liquid look and UV and worth the staining to me if its not too bad, yellow ? green not too bad stainer, and UV blue virtually none

Here is a link to an interesting post ,very badly Plasticized tube and crusty build up on tube but not block

 http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/3640

Just looked at my inside of 750D and mine is different than all your guys..i wish it wasn't as ,id prefer it was like everyone else's, and to know my case is ok,,and not an early model ,but probably not as i only got it last week ,and our main Shop in New Zealand here is PB Technologies, they only got the cases in 2 weeks ago, so its probably the other way around and this is some improvement made by corsair ?

My stand offs are not the raised bump type i see in all the pics I have seen, but instead the motherboard try is dead flat and it has hexagonal stand offs with hex outside,thread inside ,with a screw thread on bottom for attachment to motherboard, they are in opposite config to above mentioned ATX lay out ,and instead factory fitted and painted in place in the EL - ATX config,

I also only have one spare standoff .

ill post pic when i get my camera or cell ph cable for PC turns up.

Hi all 

I have a 750D and want to make a 360 rad work ( up top preferably ,instead of moving psu upfront with 90* tilt) I also want to use the D5 photon 270mm reservoir as i like its size ,looks ,and think it will cool better, with more liquid content than the 170mm 

It will be a reasonably basic system to cool, as i will probably only ever be using just one high end GPU 

However i will want cool,as I will be installing i7 4790K cpu on a GA - Z97X Gaming 3 motherboard,but only cooling the CPU at first, but when i have some $ i will upgrade graphics card and water cool it too, so thinking ahead.

So will a XT45mm 360 rad mounted above be good for i7 4790K + 1 high end card, or is it just not needed to cool the two, and is it better to go for floor mounted 240/280 thicker 60mm and have fans up top for more airflow threw case, ( seems to me that 45mm 360 is still better cooling surface area with 270 reservoir) or 360 rad 30mm + 2 x 25mm fans push - pull.

I have read somewhere that you can make a 60mm 360 work without presure on the MB ,as one brand is a few mm less size after fans mounted ?? ( 57mm + 2x 25mm fans )

Options :

1. 360 rad 60mm thick,and try and deal with MoBo pressure,like shaving fan ring ( but only push fans ) (85mm total)

2. 360 rad 45 - 47mm thick,no MoBo pressure ( but only push fans ) (70 - 72mm total )                                                      

3. 360 rad 30mm thick ,no MoBo pressure ( push - pull fans !) ( 80mm total ) 

4. RX 480 56mm thick ,no MoBo pressure  ( but push only fans ) ( 81mm total )

5. 240/280mm ,bottom or front mount ( push - pull fans ) (thick as you want in either config ) 

Im thinking option 3 or 4 best, maybe push - pull fans on a 30mm thick, better than a 45mm and  push? 

or option 4 as long as 81mm not hitting MoBo

Spent hours researching this, and think it will be easier if i get help,opinions, specific to my config,specs,as iv never done this, (only ever ambient basic ATX refits.)

Thanks in advance !  

Basic specs :

i7 4790K CPU

GA - Z97X Gaming 3 Motherboard

ATI Radian HD5850 1GB DDR5 RAM ( upgrade latter ambient cool for now)

8 GB Crucial 1600mhz RAM

XSPC D5 Photon reservoir pump combo + custom pipe and connectors + coolant.

Corsair HX 650W PSU (Should be fine for now) 

Hi all 

I want to use the 750D and make a 360 rad work ( up top preferably ) I also want to use the D5 photon 270mm reservoir as i like its size ,looks ,and think it will cool better, with more liquid content than the 170mm 

It will be a reasonably basic system to cool, as i will have 1 TB HDD,1 optical dvd ( no SSD for a while ) and will probably only ever be using just one high end GPU

However i will want cool,as I will be installing i7 4790K cpu on a GA - Z97X Gaming 3 motherboard,but only cooling the CPU at first, but when i have some $ i will upgrade graphics card and water cool it too, so thinking ahead.

So will a XT45mm 360 rad mounted above be good for i7 4790K + 1 high end card, or is it just not needed to cool the two, and is it better to go for floor mounted 240/280 thicker 60mm and have fans up top for more airflow threw case, ( seems to me that 45mm 360 is still better cooling surface area with 270 reservoir),then there is the annoying lose of an optical drive bay,because i may end up with a fan controller in there too ,as long as only one bay lost ?

I have read somewhere that you can make a 60mm 360 work without presure on the MB ,as one brand is a few mm less size after fans mounted ?? 

Spent hours researching this and think it will be easier if i get help specific to my config,specs,thanks in advance !  

Basic specs :

i7 4790K CPU

GA - Z97X Gaming 3 Motherboard

ATI Radian HD5850 1GB DDR5 RAM ( upgrade latter ambient cool for now)

8 GB Crucial 1600mhz RAM

XSPC D5 Photon reservoir pump combo + custom pipe and connectors ,coolant.

Corsair HX 650W PSU (Should be fine)