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About Bertovzki

  • Title
  • Birthday 1969-08-26

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests
    Sim Racing ,flight sims, radio control aircraft,playing and recording music (Guitar)


  • CPU
    i7 4790K
  • Motherboard
    GA-Z97X Gaming 3
  • RAM
    8 GB Crucial 1600 mhz
  • GPU
    Radian HD 5850 lol
  • Case
    Obsidian 750D
  • Storage
    1 TB HDD
  • PSU
    Corsair HX 650
  • Display(s)
    43 in plasma
  • Cooling
    XSPC D5 Photon 270
  • Keyboard
  • Mouse
    Logitech S520
  • Sound
    ALC1150 Soundblaster X-Fi MB3
  • Operating System
    Win 7
  1. You dont need to buy any more fittings than you would for flexi tubing , i just use C47 Bitspower multi link and just bend my tube where i want it to go , with EK HD 10/12 rigid , and you can do really tight bends if you make a decent jig , i find the monsoon kit , not tight enough , i did some good tight bends with it , but i find now my new jig 30 mm radius to be a good compromise between tight 90" and not too tight that the tube will deform , flatten. I dont like seeing lots of fittings in a loop , i only like to see a fitting at the start point of a run of tubing , ie. one fitting on a CPU out , to one fitting on radiator in . Rigid is however a steep learning curve , and much harder for tight bends , takes skill and practice , it is rigid that got me into aesthetics in a PC , never was interested before , now i love the look of rigid done right , and it must be square sharp 90" accurate or it does not look good. This is my first attempt at rigid bending and the only 3 tubes i have ever done , i am an novice , but i did one very tight multi bend with part of my new jig , as a test and it works very well and made a very accurate complex bend with it ,( need to use a table saw to finish my jig ) was going to load pics but i see it is a hasstle on this site , i have to re size photos , 750D club on OCN if you want to see.
  2. Well thank you all for your time to reply to my questions , however i did decide to stay with my 4790K , as i already had it and the more i read , and the more benchmarks i looked at , the more it made sense to keep my 4790K , as stated in other replies , power efficiency being a lot better , with slightly better performance in current games , it made no sense to go X99 just to get a better MOBO and future 32 GBs M.2 , as far as i can see there is Zero information that says there will be fast M.2 at any time even remotely soon , at an affordable price. It is this lack of any M.2 32GBs at a good price anytime soon that was the real decider for me , and even if it did come soon will most probably be no real use in games anyway , except game load times , or large map loads. However i would have loved this platform for my music editing and real time effects for guitar , but not enough to go for a slower gaming CPU. Splitting hairs ? yes it is , either 4790K or 5820K would be excellent , and most probably not any noticeable difference in frame rates. But also my old man was not ready to buy my 4790K , so i have just stuck with it. I will upgrade to X99 or latter next generation platform , when i see a more worthy time to jump ship , i am disappointed by the slow clock speeds of all the X99 CPU's , hell if they had a 4GHz base version , it would be a no brainer , and totally blow away a 4790K , but it doesn't , it has to be fully overclocked to compare or keep up to a 4790K at a moderately high 4.6GHz , which does that easy , if you have a good chip. I will go X99 , make no mistake , but not ready yet personally , had i not already had a 4790K unused then yes i would have gone X99 But i will wait until , either more games use it , or there is a faster X99 CPU , and better use of 32GBs M.2 It would not even be worth the upgrade from a i5 4960K if you had one , as it has about the same game performance as a 5820K Also id never bother with more than 2 GPU's , if i needed GPU that much , i would wait for the GTX 1200 or the R10 350 if you get my drift. And there is no real difference in performance yet in 16X + 8X PCIE , but my new mobo has 16x/0x/16x/0 configuration option anyway minus the ability to have M.2 10GBs , but as i say no loss at moment , and it has 10GBs Sata express if that becomes cheap enough. So i now have the GA Z97X G1 WIFI BK , top black edition Gigabyte mobo , which will be in my custom looped water cooling , so it will be a ballistic Z97 setup ! Another interesting point here , price fro a 5820K was never an issue or deciding factor , and i said a couple of weeks back that there was not much difference in price , well now for RAM at least , there is Zero , it now costs me NZD $401.37 for 16BG 2400mhz DDR3 , and it costs NZD $401.37 16GB 2400mhz DDR4 , yes it is identical to the cent !! , so its not about money just using what i have now which is a monsterously good 4790K CPU
  3. Thanks for all your input guys , i appreciate all of it , its still a tough call for me , as i do not have any illusions about what is best or fastest , the 4790k is just slightly faster , but the Z97 mobo i want , the GA-Z97X G1 WIFI BK i really like but it totally sux it does not have M.2 , and i dont want an ugly PCIE adapter for M.2 , so then i look at the next Mobo i like the MSI x99 Gaming 9 ACK and yes that does not have the intel nix just the killer , is that a real issue ? i dont know ?, but i also want my mobo to be black red and have narrowed it down to these 2 boards , the MSI has M.2 It does seem a shame to not use the 4790k , what an awesome cpu and all i need , i am leaning strongly toward staying with this cpu as i think M.2 is going to be too slow to catch up with Mobo bandwidth , my choice for msi x99 gaming 9 is mostly aesthetics and M.2 And sure , will post pics , should be worth seeing either way, i have a very heavily modified 750D , and will have lighting and aesthetics as my main theme , mixed with full acrylic case lining and acrylic lighting effects. Some of the reason aesthetic is so important to my build , and i already have Areocool DS red fans 140 mm , will have Yellow green UV Mayhems dye , so the UV green should pop against the red black mobo when UV reactive To sum up no one can help me now , thanks for input , but i have to decide or just buy both and have a spare kit to give to dad
  4. No like i said , a bit , exactly what price difference i stated , $150 NZD less which is even cheaper again if you convert the money, as i said money has zero to do with it , its more to do with the better MOBO i can get with X99 and thats all , Ram used to be $1000 here for 16GB ram its now $401.35 you live in the wrong country , i can get a whole rig for 110.97 USD more than Z97 that is all ,they are almost the same price
  5. Ok so what about music editing and recording with real time effects rack ? extremely hungry on CPU power ! Ok so have a laugh about this then ,and give opinions about music editing and live recording as above , so is X99 with say MSI Gaming 9 ACK and i7 5820K good for above. Right , i have a i74790K brand new box not opened + 8 GB Ram , but i am thinking of X99 set up above before even trying it ! , wtf why ? aye ? ok i damaged my z97 mobo and need a new mobo , and will regardless , get the top of line GA-Z97X G1-WIFI-BK and stay with 4790k , or i have the opportunity to sell it and and go X99 , and the thing is it wont cost me much more. MOBO is $60 more, CPU $50 more , Ram only $40 more so chicken feed and totally affordable here in NZ so now what would the verdict be X99 worth it for not much more given i also edit and record guitar ? I also game and have the R9 290X Tri-X OC Note: i have 2 people as buyers for 4790K I do find it an attractive quality to have 32GB/s possible M.2 , but when is it likely to be of any use and cheap enough ? Its the audio M.2 and 6 core that is attractive and i have the money , not an issue or deciding factor , just maybe still pointless as 4790K probably just fine for editing to right ? I voted Z97 by the way , unless you just dont mind the money like me or have other uses besides gaming.
  6. I already have the Photon 270 ,I was asking if anyone else had it and what they think of flow in the Res inself, as the design means most of the fluid bypasses the res, because of the baffle I'v not installed mine yet, waiting for GPU before I can start.
  7. Hi , I have a question about the res : I have one ,and not installed yet, I hear disturbing newz that the water in the res hardly moves at all, as in does not contribute to the loop , but sits in the res like a big bottle of water ,being just that a big bottle of water, and takes hours to cycle ,like if you put dye in it stays in res for hours before moving through the loop , because of the design. How do you find it, are you happy with it, does it seem to sit stagnant in the loop and not move ?
  8. Hi , I have a question about the res : I have one ,and not installed yet, I hear disturbing newz that the water in the res hardly moves at all, as in does m=not contribute to the loop , but sits in the res like a big bottle of water ,being just that a big bottle of water, and takes hours to cycle ,like if you put dye in it stays in res for hours before moving through the loop , because of the design. How do you find it, are you happy with it, does it seem to sit stagnant in the loop and not move ?
  9. Ok thanks for the feed back , bit of a buma to hear that you have no confidence in Mayhems, I dont know any of the other brands, Iv just herd a lot of preference to mayhems. This makes the decision harder then, the problem is I do really like the UV look ,or at least a pastel green or red or something. I guess its at my own risk then and I just may have a clean up job of CPU block and tubes, hopefully not my glass res too My XSPC RX 360 Rad arrived today, looks great on outside, but inside,looks half silver half copper, and very minor looking surface corrosion ,not at all bad, but looks like minor oxidization ,maybe from water residue from factory pressure testing ? unless i'm being paranoid, but its definitely not a fresh copper look
  10. So I dont make an " ass "of a choice then B negative, what would you suggest for my Acrylic tube loop, to minimalize any staining and gunk build up, given I want UV effect if possible and a green colour or maybe clear blue ? Im guessing starting with distilled water and bioside and what dye ? Im asking because I respect your opinion, but now a little confused, as I thought from all the feed back and forums that Mayhems is best, but I have just been reading , Overclockers.net : Acrylic pipe bending 101 page 15,and you say in reference to the dudes chocolate coloured coolant : " No,thats what happens when you use Mayhems. full stop. " what does this mean, that mayhems is just trash and stay away ?
  11. First of all I am a rookie and appreciate any feedback, But your reply seems only to back up every thing I said, its the clear flexi tubing and the mix of other elements together and not the dye alone that cause clogging, it doesn't seem logical that an extremely small amount of matter (dye powder ) can cause a much larger buildup of gunk, it must be platicizer ? and other things ? I still havnt decided on my coolant ,I don't no what is best yet, I was thinking just distilled water , bioside and I do like blood red ,but will stain too much, also like Green/yellow or clear blue, I like the UV effect, not sure if its worth extra maintenance
  12. Iv not bought any dye or tube yet, still researching and reading forums, I want to go acrylic and a UV dye , like green, but want to know if it will stain acrylic ( red will probably because the dye is very powerful stainer. ) even though I have no experience what so ever with any custom loop ( its my first to come soon ) But I am a painter by trade and now work with mixing paint formulas , and one thing i can say with absolute certainty is there is absolutely no way in hell a dye will ever cause gunk build up ,its laughable , the amount of powder to make an extremely strong 10 ltr mix , would be so infinitesimally small to the eye it would be totally undetectable even with a magnifying glass if it were concentrated in one spot only. impossible !! implausible and busted !this is a fact Also a fact from my reading of forums and user feed back and technical data from tube manufacturers, it is the very nature of the tube itself that makes it what it is. it is flexible !, this is because it has a plasticiser in it and it is a known fact it leaches , I dont even need to see the evidence myself , logic alone tells me this is , as NRG states Plasiciser leaching by the share volume you talk about, it can only ever be platiciser and or oxidization from other metals in your loop, then stained by the dye ! Id probably not bothered to write ,but not only are you uneducated in your response BCMods , but you are abusive and out of line in, you have been warned for your abuse ,you say, but you just did it again , except in a phuken sidways indirect sort of way , you still called NRG a moron @ cpuxtech ,yes I can understand why you would think you can see dye weaving its evil magic when you see a single drop staining like crazy , this stuff is so damn potent, but it does not start from any sort of volume , large enough to do any cloging. Now the Mayhems Pastel on the other hand, you would expect to do some major clogging, as it is so totally saturated with nano particles,and settles very quickly , but from what I read it seems thats as soon as your system is fired up they move again, and are also no problem. The Mayhems forum on Overclockers.net is awesome , Id trust Mayhems over anything on the planet, purely just because the technical support is so awesome , Michaels time and effort to answer the communities questions in an unbiased open transparent factual way, is the best iv ever seen ,he is passionate about making the best product that can be made and doing it with all of us. And on top of that , from what i read it is actually the best too , why would you use anything else, im sure as hell going to. Ps . any feed back on Acrylic tubing and its staining or not aspect would be great , im probably going for the EK Supremacy CSQ clear CPU block too, or the full copper if staining is going to be too much of an issue, I know, pros n cons,I just love the clear liquid look and UV and worth the staining to me if its not too bad, yellow ? green not too bad stainer, and UV blue virtually none Here is a link to an interesting post ,very badly Plasticized tube and crusty build up on tube but not block http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/3640
  13. Just looked at my inside of 750D and mine is different than all your guys..i wish it wasn't as ,id prefer it was like everyone else's, and to know my case is ok,,and not an early model ,but probably not as i only got it last week ,and our main Shop in New Zealand here is PB Technologies, they only got the cases in 2 weeks ago, so its probably the other way around and this is some improvement made by corsair ? My stand offs are not the raised bump type i see in all the pics I have seen, but instead the motherboard try is dead flat and it has hexagonal stand offs with hex outside,thread inside ,with a screw thread on bottom for attachment to motherboard, they are in opposite config to above mentioned ATX lay out ,and instead factory fitted and painted in place in the EL - ATX config, I also only have one spare standoff . ill post pic when i get my camera or cell ph cable for PC turns up.
  14. Hi all I have a 750D and want to make a 360 rad work ( up top preferably ,instead of moving psu upfront with 90* tilt) I also want to use the D5 photon 270mm reservoir as i like its size ,looks ,and think it will cool better, with more liquid content than the 170mm It will be a reasonably basic system to cool, as i will probably only ever be using just one high end GPU However i will want cool,as I will be installing i7 4790K cpu on a GA - Z97X Gaming 3 motherboard,but only cooling the CPU at first, but when i have some $ i will upgrade graphics card and water cool it too, so thinking ahead. So will a XT45mm 360 rad mounted above be good for i7 4790K + 1 high end card, or is it just not needed to cool the two, and is it better to go for floor mounted 240/280 thicker 60mm and have fans up top for more airflow threw case, ( seems to me that 45mm 360 is still better cooling surface area with 270 reservoir) or 360 rad 30mm + 2 x 25mm fans push - pull. I have read somewhere that you can make a 60mm 360 work without presure on the MB ,as one brand is a few mm less size after fans mounted ?? ( 57mm + 2x 25mm fans ) Options : 1. 360 rad 60mm thick,and try and deal with MoBo pressure,like shaving fan ring ( but only push fans ) (85mm total) 2. 360 rad 45 - 47mm thick,no MoBo pressure ( but only push fans ) (70 - 72mm total ) 3. 360 rad 30mm thick ,no MoBo pressure ( push - pull fans !) ( 80mm total ) 4. RX 480 56mm thick ,no MoBo pressure ( but push only fans ) ( 81mm total ) 5. 240/280mm ,bottom or front mount ( push - pull fans ) (thick as you want in either config ) Im thinking option 3 or 4 best, maybe push - pull fans on a 30mm thick, better than a 45mm and push? or option 4 as long as 81mm not hitting MoBo Spent hours researching this, and think it will be easier if i get help,opinions, specific to my config,specs,as iv never done this, (only ever ambient basic ATX refits.) Thanks in advance ! Basic specs : i7 4790K CPU GA - Z97X Gaming 3 Motherboard ATI Radian HD5850 1GB DDR5 RAM ( upgrade latter ambient cool for now) 8 GB Crucial 1600mhz RAM XSPC D5 Photon reservoir pump combo + custom pipe and connectors + coolant. Corsair HX 650W PSU (Should be fine for now)