Gdog96

Make sure you are giving the video time to buffer, I know my internet takes ages to load 720p video...its an easy thing to miss.

Netkar pro Assetto Corsa beta (need to have netkar pro but it's good) Iracing (subscription based) Rfactor/Rfactor 2 Ferrari Virtual challenge Reiza studio game stockcar Reiza studio formula truck Live for speed These are a few simulator games that are great. Iracing is expensive but it's organised online racing cannot be matched. All of these games have great physics and are great with a wheel. None of them, except maybe rfactor, have the same scale as GT5, but their physics are more realistic. Have fun :)

It looks pretty nice, I know from experience how hard cable management can be in smaller cheaper cases (I once had a Casecom 6788).

So they remain quiet and well performing despite the fact that you didn't take them apart? Pretty cool.

Is their a chance it could be the CPU? It is at stock clocks etc.. I really hope it isn't as it is the most expensive part.. I am using a sony bravia TV as the display, which is fine when watching TV etc....maybe it's the HDMI cable? The annoying thing is that, because it is so random and can go for weeks on end without freezing, sending back any parts (if still in warranty, Im not sure they are) will be hard as Ebuyer test them when they get them back and it may not freeze during the time they test it, meaning they will just send it back and charge me for the shipping..lol

I used to have a sound card but whether it was installed or not the problem would not go away. I don't think it's the wireless card either because I have changed it to a different one and the problem persists. My specs: CPU I5 3570k MOBO: Gigabyte Z77D3H GPU: Gigabyte GTX 660 (non ti) Boot drive: OCZ Agility 3 120gb Mass storage: Western Digital green 2tb Tenda wireless card. OCZ Xtreme 500 watt power supply (cant fully remember the name, it's something like this) Case: NZXT Switch 810

I was just trying to find that out, it will be a year old in august.

So it seems my other post about this has gone, so I will make a new one. Basically, ever since I built my PC it has had this annoying freezing problem where the screen will reduce to like 1 fps for a second then it will freeze completely and, more often than not, make a buzzing sound. It only happens when I am online, and generally happend when loading youtube videos but it can happen when doing other things. It forces me to do a hard reset, where it says the whole ' a problem was detected' or whatever, and I click start windows normally and all is then fine. I have a custom watercooling loop and temps are all fine, when I first discovered the problem, I had a stock cooler which I have obviously changed since then, meaning cooling isnt the problem. The CPU is at stock clocks, its a 3570k. I have the Gigabyte Z77 D3H motherboard. Since I noticed the problem, I have changed the primary SSD, the secondary HDD, reinstalled windows twice, changed the graphics card, the ram, the wireless card, the CPU cooling method as I mentioned, the case, re-designed the case airflow several times, updated to latest drivers of everything, updated to latest BIOS. When I updated the BIOS, I thought it had solved the problem as it didn't happen for weeks, but it just did it again. I am getting rather annoyed by this and want it to stop. Can anybody help me please? I think its a motherboard problem that will require a replacement but I can't afford to buy a new one if it isn't the problem as I have to buy my first car soon. Any help with be appreciated.

You will not need 32 gigs of ram unless you are doing extreme stuff and multi tasking whilst doing it, seeing as you said low end CAD I reckon you will only need like 16 gigs.

I think that has to be it...thanks Nishank93!

I think the Bitfenix shinobi xl has to be it. Thanks!

Yeah that was at the back of my mind, thanks for the reply.

Sorry I should have mentioned my budget...I don't really want to spend more than I did on my Switch 810 (about £130) but I don't know if that's possible.. I just thought of another way to explain what I am looking for, something like the fractal design R4, if they made one that supported 360 rad I would be sold.

So right now I have a Switch 810 with custom watercooling including a 360 radiator. I don't like how it looks though, it's too plasticy and the plastic is a completely different colour to the metal (I just have the standard black case). I also decided that I don't like the window (this was my first case with a window, so yeah) I like the style of the Antec P280..it looks more sleek and smooth. I don't think it supports a triple 120 rad though?.. Any help would be appreciated.

Oh right, I don't know then, sorry.

So I was thinking about you problem. You know sometimes games automatically select graphics settings based on what specs your PC is? Well what if, when the card is in the x8 slot, the game detects the lower bandwidth and lowers the settings, meaning a higher framerate. And when the card is in a x16 slot, the game detects the higher bandwidth and chooses higher settings because of it, however we all know that the games choosing settings can be inaccurate, so it chooses settings that are too high and causes a framerate drop.

You could try re-seating the GPU, the problem may have been something as simple as a bad connection.

Yeah good point I didn't take that into consideration... Umm Is there a bios switch on the PCB of the GPU itself? I remember some of the 6000 series cards had this. Also, there is a very very small chance....that you just got two faulty cards. I mean it happens, its just rare because the chances are so low... Maybe try and get this one RMA'd like you did the last one?

Make sure it is plugged into a PCI x16 slot. (A long shot I know) As for trying to re-set the BIOS you could update it all together, or you can reset the CMOS. My motherboard had two pins which you short with a screw driver (when the PC is OFF) and that re sets it, but you can take out the CMOS battery and put it back in (when the PC is OFF) and that will do the same thing. I had to do this when I had an overclocking problem and my BIOS was freezing. Look up instructions on this because I don't trust that my memory is fully correct and I don't want to be responsible for breaking your PC, (but it's easy so don't worry). I'm not sure this will fix the problem but it's worth a shot, though it will un do any overlocking settings you have. Other than that I don't know, sorry.. Good luck.

My SSD and my sound card.

I don't think that the temps are too high, it depends what the TJ max is for the 8150. However, it seems a bit high seeing as you are using a h70. Is it overclocked? Make sure you got good airflow through the case and that the pump unit is making proper contact with the CPU, and make sure the thermal paste hasn't dried out.

Sweet. Looking good.

Thanks GoodBytes, I will do that and let you know how it goes. I think the bios update has fixed my problem but I will try and make sure before I re-activate it. Thanks again. Edit: Just did it and it went smoothly, my windows is now genuine, thanks a alot Goodbytes :)

So today I updated my bios to latest because of a freezing problem. It all went fine, until I realised I had to re activate windows 7. So I re-entered my code but it was invalid, I tried twice. The system is a self built PC- it has a 3570k, gigabyte z773dh motherboard, and a gtx 660. The copy of windows is the OEM version. Thing is I have reinstalled windows twice before using the same product key and all has been fine. I don't want to have to buy a new copy (though if I do I might give windows 8 a try.) I REALLY don't want to download all of my stuff like games and applications etc again because my internet is slow, and I'm not kidding it will probably take a week in sheer download time. For example it took me 21 hours to download Crysis 1, and that's only one game. I'd rather not call Microsoft, but I will if I have to. Thanks people.

I bought a network card for £5 and its fine, although if my internet was actually fast then it may struggle, I havn't been able to push it to it's limit because my internet is only 300kb/s max. It connects quickly and I never get any dropouts or anything, so I don't see the point in spending £80 on an asus card.