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Just Monika

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  • Posts

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Canadia

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i5-4690S 3.2GHz
  • Motherboard
    MSI Z97-G45 Gaming
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866
  • GPU
    EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 GAMING ACX 3.0
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl)
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" SSD, Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive, Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM HDD
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 750W 80+ Gold
  • Display(s)
    S2716DG, Asus MX259H
  • Cooling
    CM Hyper 212 EVO
  • Keyboard
    Ducky Shine 5 RGB Brown Cherry MX
  • Mouse
    Logitech G400S
  • Sound
    HyperX Cloud II Gunmetal Grey
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
  • PCPartPicker URL

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  1. I've been using my Ducky Shine 5 keyboard for about 6 years now and will probably never buy another one since I can only find the "mainstream" mechanical keyboards available in Canadian sites and only the "mainstream" switches (Cherry Browns/Reds/Blues and equivalents from other manufacturers). If I could find another full sized Ducky keyboard with some of the newer switch types, I would be on the hunt again.
  2. Find a retailer with a waiting list (either online or in-store) and get in line, as long as you don't need to pre-pay. This is your "safety plan" in case you're not able to purchase directly, so try to get yourself waitlisted only if the price is low to reasonable. Some stores may increase the price by the time the list gets to you, however. To buy online, you'll need a little bit of preparation. If you're not able to sit at a computer for hours during normal working times, this step may be very difficult. Save your credit card/payment information on all retailer sites you plan on using. Also have the information at the ready (either have it written down or have the card present) in case the site prompts you for it despite having it saved already - this happened to me on Newegg, but I was prepared. First, bookmark the product pages of the GPUs you're interested in, and organize them in such a way that you can quickly access them at a moment's notice. Second, join a stock-watcher stream and listen for in-stock notifications. Keep in mind there will be hundreds or thousands of other people waiting along with you, that's why you need to be able to quickly access the pages you bookmarked Determine a range of prices that you are willing to pay. These stock-watching streams will only tell you what product is in stock and where, it's up to you to make a quick decision on whether or not the price is acceptable so you can either rush to check out or ignore.
  3. Technology: RTX 3080 Ti. Been waiting for a 20GB variant of the 3080 since launch date and I've been resisting the temptation to buy a 3090 with each passing day that the 3080 Ti doesn't exist. I'm very eager to upgrade from my trusty GTX 1080 and am willing to pay any amount for a 3080 Ti as long as it's reasonably less than a 3090. <removed by staff>
  4. Thanks for your reply, that's reassuring. I'm sure I didn't do anything that caused the damage. I never set the voltage to anything beyond 1.35V (XMP spec) and stuck to the XMP profile with some timing tightening.
  5. I'm looking to see if anyone has had similar experiences with RMA'ing RAM or other components due to blown capacitors. Recently one of my 2 16GB modules (G.Skill 2x16 GB modules) had a blown capacitor which resulted in random and constant blue screen crashes. I'm preparing to send the modules but I noticed on their (G.Skill's) RMA confirmation form that warranty is voided by "physical damage". This both worries and frustrates me because while one of the modules is technically "damaged", it is only due to a faulty capacitor that there was damage. Picture of the capacitor in the spoiler. So I'm wondering if G.Skill will try to wriggle their way out of shipping me replacement modules because of their own faulty product? Thanks.
  6. How much of an issue, if any, is having 24GB of VRAM if I only have 16GB of RAM? Really eyeing the 3090 but that's one of the concerns I have, other than the enormous price tag on it.
  7. I think a more efficient method would be a self-inking stamp type of tool that dispensed thermal paste instead of ink. Cut out the wasted paste and the messing-around with a stencil and paste tube, and just stamp on the paste.
  8. Using a 3900X for gaming instead of rendering, video editing, or anything that has actual need of 12C/24T. I wanted it "just because", and I don't regret getting it over a 3700X. My case has no windows or RGB because it sits underneath my desk and I never see it. I turn off the RGB lights on my mouse because it's wireless and I don't need the battery drain on an LED that I'll never see because it sits underneath my hand. Only RGB I use are the ones on my keyboard and I only bought it several years ago because it was an open box deal that was far too good to pass up (bonus: the box contents were completely untouched and factory-new).
  9. If I were a cautious buyer, then these would be my definitions: New = Unopened Open Box = Opened but never installed and powered on Used = Installed and powered on If there is an exceptional case, like it was only powered on for a few hours, make it abundantly clear so the customer knows just how "used" it was. If it was used for only a couple of minutes or hours, it would be more desirable than something that has been used for several months. Trying to pass it off as new would only make yourself look untrustworthy and trying to pull a trick on the buyer. Better to be straightforward with the details to help establish yourself as trustworthy.
  10. I prefer using a fingerprint reader but Face ID does have a strong convenience factor in that using the feature is no different from using the device (you just look at it). As for whether or not the notch is "worth it" - it's unobtrusive and is not noticeable unless the notch is something you're actively looking for or thinking about. I don't mind the notch at all because there's nothing important that could have been there in its place. The screen space on each side of the notch holds the time and battery/wifi/carrier signal icons - informative but not something you keep constant attention on. It's something you look at when you need to. There's no better place to put that information than on each side of the notch.
  11. As a trilogy, Mass Effect needs to be played from beginning to end. If you skip to the end, all you see are a lot of storylines concluding that you didn't really built up a connection to so there's little to no emotional impact when there should have been one. Mass Effect 2 and 3 also carried over certain key decisions that you made from the previous game (if you still had the game save file) and that made the game feel "alive" where your decisions throughout the series actually mattered. Granted the story doesn't change from these decisions, but they're enough to make you feel like you had some influence on it. Starting from the last game in the series completely eliminates this factor and the game ends up feeling like it ended before it started. You never get the satisfaction of seeing the end result of all the decisions you've made, and only see the results of decisions that you (the player) never made. I also highly recommending watching playthroughs, Lets Plays, or at least the cutscenes from the previous games in order to get a better idea of what happened in the story. Personally I did really enjoy the Mass Effect series (1 to 3). What kept me going was wanting to know what happens in the next game, my emotional investment in the characters, and wanting to know how the story would end.
  12. I've never looked at QVL lists when choosing memory and it's always been fine. That list is only what the manufacturer has tested themselves to work. If it's not on the list, it doesn't necessarily mean it doesn't work, it's just they haven't tested it. I've followed 3rd gen Ryzen closely for several months after its release and I don't recall seeing cases where a specific set of RAM doesn't work unless it was actually defective (needing RMA) or where it was being overclocked beyond its limits.
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