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Just Monika

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Everything posted by Just Monika

  1. I've been using my Ducky Shine 5 keyboard for about 6 years now and will probably never buy another one since I can only find the "mainstream" mechanical keyboards available in Canadian sites and only the "mainstream" switches (Cherry Browns/Reds/Blues and equivalents from other manufacturers). If I could find another full sized Ducky keyboard with some of the newer switch types, I would be on the hunt again.
  2. Find a retailer with a waiting list (either online or in-store) and get in line, as long as you don't need to pre-pay. This is your "safety plan" in case you're not able to purchase directly, so try to get yourself waitlisted only if the price is low to reasonable. Some stores may increase the price by the time the list gets to you, however. To buy online, you'll need a little bit of preparation. If you're not able to sit at a computer for hours during normal working times, this step may be very difficult. Save your credit card/payment information on all retailer sites you plan on using. Also have the information at the ready (either have it written down or have the card present) in case the site prompts you for it despite having it saved already - this happened to me on Newegg, but I was prepared. First, bookmark the product pages of the GPUs you're interested in, and organize them in such a way that you can quickly access them at a moment's notice. Second, join a stock-watcher stream and listen for in-stock notifications. Keep in mind there will be hundreds or thousands of other people waiting along with you, that's why you need to be able to quickly access the pages you bookmarked Determine a range of prices that you are willing to pay. These stock-watching streams will only tell you what product is in stock and where, it's up to you to make a quick decision on whether or not the price is acceptable so you can either rush to check out or ignore.
  3. Technology: RTX 3080 Ti. Been waiting for a 20GB variant of the 3080 since launch date and I've been resisting the temptation to buy a 3090 with each passing day that the 3080 Ti doesn't exist. I'm very eager to upgrade from my trusty GTX 1080 and am willing to pay any amount for a 3080 Ti as long as it's reasonably less than a 3090. <removed by staff>
  4. Thanks for your reply, that's reassuring. I'm sure I didn't do anything that caused the damage. I never set the voltage to anything beyond 1.35V (XMP spec) and stuck to the XMP profile with some timing tightening.
  5. I'm looking to see if anyone has had similar experiences with RMA'ing RAM or other components due to blown capacitors. Recently one of my 2 16GB modules (G.Skill 2x16 GB modules) had a blown capacitor which resulted in random and constant blue screen crashes. I'm preparing to send the modules but I noticed on their (G.Skill's) RMA confirmation form that warranty is voided by "physical damage". This both worries and frustrates me because while one of the modules is technically "damaged", it is only due to a faulty capacitor that there was damage. Picture of the capacitor in the spoiler. So I'm wondering if G.Skill will try to wriggle their way out of shipping me replacement modules because of their own faulty product? Thanks.
  6. How much of an issue, if any, is having 24GB of VRAM if I only have 16GB of RAM? Really eyeing the 3090 but that's one of the concerns I have, other than the enormous price tag on it.
  7. I think a more efficient method would be a self-inking stamp type of tool that dispensed thermal paste instead of ink. Cut out the wasted paste and the messing-around with a stencil and paste tube, and just stamp on the paste.
  8. Using a 3900X for gaming instead of rendering, video editing, or anything that has actual need of 12C/24T. I wanted it "just because", and I don't regret getting it over a 3700X. My case has no windows or RGB because it sits underneath my desk and I never see it. I turn off the RGB lights on my mouse because it's wireless and I don't need the battery drain on an LED that I'll never see because it sits underneath my hand. Only RGB I use are the ones on my keyboard and I only bought it several years ago because it was an open box deal that was far too good to pass up (bonus: the box contents were completely untouched and factory-new).
  9. If I were a cautious buyer, then these would be my definitions: New = Unopened Open Box = Opened but never installed and powered on Used = Installed and powered on If there is an exceptional case, like it was only powered on for a few hours, make it abundantly clear so the customer knows just how "used" it was. If it was used for only a couple of minutes or hours, it would be more desirable than something that has been used for several months. Trying to pass it off as new would only make yourself look untrustworthy and trying to pull a trick on the buyer. Better to be straightforward with the details to help establish yourself as trustworthy.
  10. I prefer using a fingerprint reader but Face ID does have a strong convenience factor in that using the feature is no different from using the device (you just look at it). As for whether or not the notch is "worth it" - it's unobtrusive and is not noticeable unless the notch is something you're actively looking for or thinking about. I don't mind the notch at all because there's nothing important that could have been there in its place. The screen space on each side of the notch holds the time and battery/wifi/carrier signal icons - informative but not something you keep constant attention on. It's something you look at when you need to. There's no better place to put that information than on each side of the notch.
  11. As a trilogy, Mass Effect needs to be played from beginning to end. If you skip to the end, all you see are a lot of storylines concluding that you didn't really built up a connection to so there's little to no emotional impact when there should have been one. Mass Effect 2 and 3 also carried over certain key decisions that you made from the previous game (if you still had the game save file) and that made the game feel "alive" where your decisions throughout the series actually mattered. Granted the story doesn't change from these decisions, but they're enough to make you feel like you had some influence on it. Starting from the last game in the series completely eliminates this factor and the game ends up feeling like it ended before it started. You never get the satisfaction of seeing the end result of all the decisions you've made, and only see the results of decisions that you (the player) never made. I also highly recommending watching playthroughs, Lets Plays, or at least the cutscenes from the previous games in order to get a better idea of what happened in the story. Personally I did really enjoy the Mass Effect series (1 to 3). What kept me going was wanting to know what happens in the next game, my emotional investment in the characters, and wanting to know how the story would end.
  12. I've never looked at QVL lists when choosing memory and it's always been fine. That list is only what the manufacturer has tested themselves to work. If it's not on the list, it doesn't necessarily mean it doesn't work, it's just they haven't tested it. I've followed 3rd gen Ryzen closely for several months after its release and I don't recall seeing cases where a specific set of RAM doesn't work unless it was actually defective (needing RMA) or where it was being overclocked beyond its limits.
  13. Yes, 3200 MHz is the maximum memory speed that is guaranteed to work with 3rd gen Ryzen. At that speed you're still running at stock specs. What is concerning is that your 2600X can't run the stick at 2933 MHz, since you said it can't run at anything higher than 2133 MHz. Assuming your voltage was correctly set to XMP specs, it's possible your stick is bad because 2933 MHz is the 2600X's stock spec and it should work. While I've understand that 1st and 2nd gen Ryzen's memory controllers weren't great, but they should at least work at their stock speed of 2933.
  14. Sorry I easily confuse myself with rank vs channel. I don't have first-hand experience but over a few months of reading other people's OC experiences, dual vs. single rank only became relevant when OCing to the RAM IC's absolute limits (single rank was easier to reach max OCs). But if I'm reading correctly (I did re-read a few times) you are concerned about being able to reach XMP speeds not absolute limits. In that case, single vs dual rank should not matter as far as I know because running 3200 MHz RAM doesn't involve OCing the memory controller in the case of 3rd gen Ryzen.
  15. Ryzen 3rd gen's default memory spec is 3200 MHz so you should have absolutely no problems running your RAM at that speed, unless your CPU happens to be defective. 3600 is possible with what seems to be 90% of users. I'm one of the unlucky 10% and my 3900X absolutely refuses to be 100% stable with an FCLK of 1800 MHz and my RAM refuses to stay stable at 3600 MHz. I knocked it down to 1766MHz FCLK/3533 MHz RAM and it was extremely cooperative when tightening timings, strangely. Point is, even my failed lottery landed me just one "step" below running 3600 MHz RAM so you're very likely good to go.
  16. If your max temperatures after adding case fans is 81-82C as you mentioned, then that should be great. My max temperatures during CPU stress testing is 85-87C with 2 fans in and 1 fan out, could be less if there was enough space for my case for better airflow. I don't know the fine details about benefits of using the NH D15S (or any other expensive cooler) vs. a cheaper cooler because I've used that cooler with my 3900X since the beginning. Having a cooler chip would allow your CPU to boost more/longer before it hits thermal limits. And that's important because the 7nm Ryzen CPUs have been known to be more difficult to cool. It's not that they output a lot of heat, it's a lot more heat being put out by many smaller CPU cores in a smaller packed area. Besides performance related benefits, it is the best air cooler around in terms of cooling ability so you could probably re-use it in future builds for as long as you want. And it's really easy to install, personally I had a little bit of difficulty until I brought out a second screwdriver to use along with the provided Allen wrench to screw down both mounts at the same time. Then it was incredibly painless.
  17. PPT, TDC, and EDC are the 3 main variables that Ryzen CPUs use for Precision Boost. These are not safety-related numbers like voltage is. You could (and many people do) set the PPT, TDC, EDC limits to motherboard limits which are much higher than what you see in Ryzen Master, or even set them all to 1000, with no negative impact, other than possibly hitting thermal limits sooner and limiting your potential boosting Here's some more info about PPT and the other limits that I've found through Reddit, it should shed some light on the topic: https://en.wikichip.org/wiki/amd/pbo As long as CPU voltage and clock speed are left stock, your Ryzen CPU will be safe. There's an incredible amount going behind the scenes in Ryzen CPUs that make the most of its potential while keeping itself safe.
  18. Also check your credit card purchase history to see if there are any unknown charges in case there are any purchases that didn't get reported to your email, or possibly reported to one of your alternate email addresses. Hopefully the damage was limited to your amazon account, but keep an eye on your credit card history to determine someone has your CC info. In case you have any remote desktop software installed on any of your PCs, remove it immediately. I had a similar situation where I had a remotely-accessible PC (huge no-no that I will never repeat) with login credentials that I imported from my main PC for "convenience" (another huge no). Thankfully I was home during a random vacation day, otherwise the damage could have been in the thousands of $, but in the end I was able to recover/cancel all the unauthorized charges with a fair bit of hassle.
  19. As a fellow citizen of Canadia, it's poking fun at how residents of Canada aren't referred to as Canadans or how thinking logically about the term Canadian that a country named Canadia should exist. Like how the term "Americans" refers to residents of [The United States of] America. American (person) - n = America (country) Russian - n = Russia Asian - n = Asia Indian - n = India Canadian - n = Canadia?
  20. AMD hasn't been a strong competitor against Intel for many years, before the Ryzen 3000 series came out (imo), so many people probably just stuck to Intel out of habit. From what I see on posts discussing builds, I've seen many cases where people defend their choice in an Intel CPU when others are suggesting a Ryzen instead not because of performance reasons, but because of things like: "I trust Intel more" "AMD CPUs are spaceheaters" "I've had problems with AMD CPUs in the past and I don't trust them anymore"
  21. Definitely extreme differences in the first few upgrades! I may have forgotten an additional CPU after the 166 MHz, I believe it was a 233 MHz Pentium in combination with some kind of Nvidia GPU with 32 MB VRAM. It was incredibly ill-suited for any kind of real gaming, the most it could do was Runescape (the original one) and simple games like Doom or StarCraft. I'd say the most incredible upgrade was the i5 4690S which was my first experience with an SSD. Completely knocked me off guard with the speed and I never really stopped being impressed by it.
  22. I definitely don't remember the years, but the list of CPUs I've ever owned is extremely tiny. I only make a new build when I absolutely have to. Exception is the 3900X, it was less of an urgent need but the bottleneck on my 4690S/GTX1080 combo was getting a bit annoying. Intel Pentium 166 MHz Intel Pentium 4 1.5 GHz Intel® Core™2 Quad Processor Q6600 Intel® Core™ i5-4690S AMD Ryzen™ 9 3900X (Current)
  23. With PBO on motherboard limits, my 3900X has never went beyond 165W on PPT under stress testing conditions based on my personal memory.
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