SlayerOfHellWyrm

So, as someone that works for a company that sells products globally, forwarders pose a pretty large issue. Products may not be sold in a region for various reasons, and the big ones that can cause issues are either import/export bans, or, issues with certifications within a specific country. 

This is why we ban forwarders, and if you actively tell us your order is going to a location to be forwarded off to say, Korea where we lack relevant certifications to offer the products there, we will cancel the order.

Why? The short answer is support is very difficult if not impossible. For instance, if you purchase the product and ship it to Korea and then have issues, we can't ship any sort of replacements products or parts to the region. Alternatively, if you have an issue with the product, and let's say there's a fire and property damage is resulted, what laws do you have backing you up at that point? Basically none, because the product was never supposed to be there in the first place. You would have no ground to stand on for consumer protection laws, or lacking a certification required for the reason when you actively worked to get the item in an unsupported region. This can also cause issues with liability and so it gets messy fast.

This is an oversimplification, but it should help get the point across that there are issues allowing stuff to be forwarded to regions if you don't operate in them. It get's really bad for us with some countries where they're on the US entity list and so black-listed from companies working with them and their supply chain companies can't work with them either. Since we work with a bunch of Defense contractors, there are entire countries we're not allowed to ever work with without losing those customers. 

No working with forwarders is pretty reasonable as a result, but, it needs to be made pretty clear. We make it clear on our site that PO boxes, APO (army post office) and forwarders are not allowed. Do customers sometimes order to say, a US office and ship it themselves to a country we're blacklisted with working with? Of course, and we can't support them with RMAs when that happens and have to explain why, but this is why we cancel orders if we know that's going to happen. 

So, as someone that works for a company that sells products globally, forwarders pose a pretty large issue. Products may not be sold in a region for various reasons, and the big ones that can cause issues are either import/export bans, or, issues with certifications within a specific country. 

This is why we ban forwarders, and if you actively tell us your order is going to a location to be forwarded off to say, Korea where we lack relevant certifications to offer the products there, we will cancel the order.

Why? The short answer is support is very difficult if not impossible. For instance, if you purchase the product and ship it to Korea and then have issues, we can't ship any sort of replacements products or parts to the region. Alternatively, if you have an issue with the product, and let's say there's a fire and property damage is resulted, what laws do you have backing you up at that point? Basically none, because the product was never supposed to be there in the first place. You would have no ground to stand on for consumer protection laws, or lacking a certification required for the reason when you actively worked to get the item in an unsupported region. This can also cause issues with liability and so it gets messy fast.

This is an oversimplification, but it should help get the point across that there are issues allowing stuff to be forwarded to regions if you don't operate in them. It get's really bad for us with some countries where they're on the US entity list and so black-listed from companies working with them and their supply chain companies can't work with them either. Since we work with a bunch of Defense contractors, there are entire countries we're not allowed to ever work with without losing those customers. 

No working with forwarders is pretty reasonable as a result, but, it needs to be made pretty clear. We make it clear on our site that PO boxes, APO (army post office) and forwarders are not allowed. Do customers sometimes order to say, a US office and ship it themselves to a country we're blacklisted with working with? Of course, and we can't support them with RMAs when that happens and have to explain why, but this is why we cancel orders if we know that's going to happen. 

We absolutely have heard your feedback that the deals we point out need to be good deals, but the second hand market moves fast compared to our brand partnerships/video production pipeline. Can't promise it'll always be perfect, but that's valid feedback and we'll try. 
 
However, the OP's post here was obviously in bad faith and doesn't merit a reply from me. I'm a HUGE advocate for buying second hand to save a buck and keep electronics in use rather than sitting idle or in a landfill. Always have been, and to turn this into some kind of "took the bag" narrative is donkey shit.
 

That said, Steam lets you configure download bandwidth limits so that you can avoid this by telling it never to take more than 500 Mb/s from a 1 Gb/s connection. It might be something to look into @JFK1350. i'm trying to recall off the top of my head as I'm not on my personal computer atm, but it should be something like Steam > Settings > Downloads > Download Restrictions > check off Limit bandwidth to:  and then set the value in KB/s. Keep in mind, B/s vs b/s. 1000 KB/s (1MBs) is actually 8x that (8,000 Kb/s or 8Mb/s) when converted. This is because of bytes vs bits. Internet speeds are measured in bits, but Steam pulls shows in bytes. So, whatever you want to set the limit to, take that value then divide it by 8 (to go from bits to bytes), then convert to KB, and that's the value to put in. 

That said, Steam lets you configure download bandwidth limits so that you can avoid this by telling it never to take more than 500 Mb/s from a 1 Gb/s connection. It might be something to look into @JFK1350. i'm trying to recall off the top of my head as I'm not on my personal computer atm, but it should be something like Steam > Settings > Downloads > Download Restrictions > check off Limit bandwidth to:  and then set the value in KB/s. Keep in mind, B/s vs b/s. 1000 KB/s (1MBs) is actually 8x that (8,000 Kb/s or 8Mb/s) when converted. This is because of bytes vs bits. Internet speeds are measured in bits, but Steam pulls shows in bytes. So, whatever you want to set the limit to, take that value then divide it by 8 (to go from bits to bytes), then convert to KB, and that's the value to put in. 

Would it be nice if they had a filter for 12VHWPR? Sure, but, it is accurately called out in the Technical Specifications, which, as a consumer, should be checking as well. 

As someone with uh... 

A lot of Corsair stuff... yeah, this is pretty normal. Some products will have a Hardware Lighting which is the lighting effect to apply when there is no iCUE running yet. Some devices will go into rainbow mode, some like my ML120 fans on my H115i, just sit... off. So, definitely get iCUE installed first and see if that brings them up and they're properly detected and such. I remember going through this same thing with my setup.

No, I'm not a shill for them, they just had the best RGB Ecosystem at the time I built my rig and I wanted the pretty lights so I paid their tax, lol.

As someone with uh... 

A lot of Corsair stuff... yeah, this is pretty normal. Some products will have a Hardware Lighting which is the lighting effect to apply when there is no iCUE running yet. Some devices will go into rainbow mode, some like my ML120 fans on my H115i, just sit... off. So, definitely get iCUE installed first and see if that brings them up and they're properly detected and such. I remember going through this same thing with my setup.

No, I'm not a shill for them, they just had the best RGB Ecosystem at the time I built my rig and I wanted the pretty lights so I paid their tax, lol.

It was probably subsidized in cost by those ads. Either:
Use a custom DNS to nuke the ads from loading Load a custom ROM Get a different phone If you're lucky, maybe there's a setting to turn them off, but typically phones that do that, won't let you since that's how the cost of the phone is offset.

Adding to this, I would also check that your RAM is validated for the board (https://www.asus.com/motherboards-components/motherboards/prime/prime-b650m-a-wifi/helpdesk_qvl_memory/?model2Name=PRIME-B650M-A-WIFI). you can also use the BIOS flashback to make sure you're on the latest BIOS. Test different DIMM slots on the board, try re-seating your GPU, etc. Might be worth double-checking the wiring to make sure it's all connected properly, especially that front panel I/O. 

May I also ask why you're only running 1 stick of RAM instead of two? I have seen in the past some boards refuse to boot in single-channel, and will only work when properly operating in dual-channel mode.

I've had this happen with G-Sync enabled. Check the Nvidia control panel, see if it's on, and if it is, try turning it off. From there, you may need to tweak the settings in G-Sync for when to kick it on. In the case I had, it was just MC causing issue and eventually it fixed itself when my GPU driver updated to a newer version that didn't exist when the issue was present. 
 
Keep in mind, the monitor you have is G-Sync Compatible. It's not actual G-Sync, so it can have issues. It's not supposed to, but things happen.

So, NVMe booting requires UEFI based on 2.3.1 or later, which is most systems post 2012. That being said, you need to have the system in UEFI mode, a supported OS (Windows 7 needs a hotfix/extra drivers and has limited compatibility, Windows XP and older is unsupported), you need a PCIe Gen 3.0 or newer slot, your BIOS needs to have an NVMe boot module in it (not all do), and for chips any Ryzen chip works and for Intel it is anything supported by a Z-series chipset that Z97 or newer. Some Server-side C-series chips support it, but you NEED to talk with the manufacturer of the board to be certain. 

Granted, none of that really matters for a supplemental data driver. Only the PCIe Gen, and supported OS matters at that point.

Just to confirm, you are seeing the drive in Disk Management to try and initialize the drive? Also, what slot's it in on the board? Some NVMe drives are incredibly picky about 100% being in a PCIe Gen 3.0+ slot, which is technically the requirement for NVMe anyway. Bunch of slots on that board are PCIe 2.0.

STOP. Honestly, stop. I've looked at your posts. You are doing things you do not have the skills to do. You are risking injury and fire. Please, stop trying to power things with a standard ATX power supply. Get the correct power adapters, or seek assistance from an electrician, or electrical engineer who knows what they are doing, 

I'm not saying this to be rude, I'm saying it because I don't want something bad happening. 

-= Topic moved to Power Supplies =-
Please start posting your topics in the correct section.
 
Also, 
-= Topic Locked =-
I 100% agree with this.
What you are wanting to do with PSU's are not in line with what PSU's are designed for.
 
Further topics with question about how to modify your PSU outside its intended design and use will be Locked or Removed.

This makes me even more suspicious that you're trying something you should not be...

Better question, why? What are you trying to do, or, what do you want to know?

They don't really have any standards for motherboards, or power. How the units shut down depends on the hardware in the laptop. They will receive the shutdown command the same as any other computer, but how internals handle that is dependent on the laptop, BIOS, circuitry, etc.

My gut tells me you are looking to do something you shouldn't be...
 

This makes me even more suspicious that you're trying something you should not be...

Better question, why? What are you trying to do, or, what do you want to know?

They don't really have any standards for motherboards, or power. How the units shut down depends on the hardware in the laptop. They will receive the shutdown command the same as any other computer, but how internals handle that is dependent on the laptop, BIOS, circuitry, etc.

My gut tells me you are looking to do something you shouldn't be...
 

No, it won't, and don't mess with that setting, ever. It's incredibly dangerous and can open you up to some pretty nasty malware. You want it gone? Then pay for a license.

No, it won't, and don't mess with that setting, ever. It's incredibly dangerous and can open you up to some pretty nasty malware. You want it gone? Then pay for a license.

No, it won't, and don't mess with that setting, ever. It's incredibly dangerous and can open you up to some pretty nasty malware. You want it gone? Then pay for a license.

No, it won't, and don't mess with that setting, ever. It's incredibly dangerous and can open you up to some pretty nasty malware. You want it gone? Then pay for a license.

No, it won't, and don't mess with that setting, ever. It's incredibly dangerous and can open you up to some pretty nasty malware. You want it gone? Then pay for a license.

That... is so not needed. Physical access = ownership. If they can touch the computer, they will never need that key to use it. Plus, if you accidentally leave your computer alone, then you need to somehow not forget to take the USB with you. I would contact their support, moreso than here. I don't think that item is really going to do much (imo).