SlayerOfHellWyrm

It's usually just slightly out of spec so you can't swap in your own stuff. Usually, it's the PSU that's the big issue. If you're trying to re-use the Dell one, it likely won't work as they like to use an 8-pin P1 (main power connector) as opposed to the usual 20 or 20+4/24-pin ATX main power as well as proprietary crap for the front panel power switch, just so you can't re-use it.

Possibly. You aren't making the mistake of confusing M.2 SAT and M.2 PCIe which a lot of folks do, and would certainly cause the issue. If the slot's at x1, that's also an issue. Outside of that, either a dud drive, or, dud adapter possibly. Any other computer you might be able to test in, perhaps a friend's? Ideally one whom you can put the M.2 into directly to make sure it's not dead.

I assume you have this in slot PCI_E4? What colour tis the LED for that slot? For reference, manual page 38: If it's white, it's possible it's operating in PCIe x1 mode for some reason, instead of x4, x8, or x16. In which case, poke around in the BIOS to find the speed, and make sure it's at x4 or higher. Outside of that, please confirm if the drive's being seen in Disk Management.

Try taking it off auto-negotiate and setting it to 1Gbps Full duplex and see if that fixes it. If it doesn't, double-check the cabling, specifically, the wire count. If at any point on of the cables between your C5 and computer doesn't have all 8, that's the issue.

It was probably subsidized in cost by those ads. Either: Use a custom DNS to nuke the ads from loading Load a custom ROM Get a different phone If you're lucky, maybe there's a setting to turn them off, but typically phones that do that, won't let you since that's how the cost of the phone is offset.

So, it's buried way on the Amazon page: As you can see, DD01P, so they are not actually certified though they claim them to be. Legally, they actually shouldn't be using references to the cables being VESA certified but odds are Amazon won't force them to remove it. I have reported the issue though. In any event, I would do a search for new properly VESA certified cables. I'm hesitant to make a recommendation since I work for a manufacturer of said cables, but, you can use the VESA site (https://www.displayport.org/product-category/cables-adaptors/?ps) and click on the list of manufacturers to find companies who's name you may recognize to then find models numbers for cables, which you can search for on Amazon or their site. This is the starting point I'd recommend, I don't trust the non-certified cable. As you can see in the vendor list there's Belkin, BizLink, Cable Matters, CE Link, Club 3D, Delock, JCE, Plugable, Sony, StarTech.com, Targus, and a whole host of others.

So, that's not possible. 8700K = Intel CPU and the board's AMD X370 which is for AMD Ryzen chips...

Hey @Domi the ded, do you mind explaining what you are trying to accomplish with a mesh WiFi system? I think I should start with understanding if this is even a good solution, as your question's relatively basic (yes, you can for most systems, some you can't, manual would tell you) and so it has me wondering if this is even something you need. I know it's not the most helpfulanswer, but I prefer to educate users when possible, and so I want to make sure I'm understanding the mentality behind this question.

So, NVMe booting requires UEFI based on 2.3.1 or later, which is most systems post 2012. That being said, you need to have the system in UEFI mode, a supported OS (Windows 7 needs a hotfix/extra drivers and has limited compatibility, Windows XP and older is unsupported), you need a PCIe Gen 3.0 or newer slot, your BIOS needs to have an NVMe boot module in it (not all do), and for chips any Ryzen chip works and for Intel it is anything supported by a Z-series chipset that Z97 or newer. Some Server-side C-series chips support it, but you NEED to talk with the manufacturer of the board to be certain. Granted, none of that really matters for a supplemental data driver. Only the PCIe Gen, and supported OS matters at that point.

It very well could be. It's possible the drive has no DRAM cache at all, and it's using cheap enough cells that as you load up the drive it can't keep up anymore and poops itself. Seen it quite a lot with just, F-tied generic AF drives that have no excuse for existing.

You can use multiple tools like Rufus, Etcher, etc to create a bootable USB and remove the requirements. There are other ways around it too, but keep in mind, this will be a very unsupported config. You may run into issues especially with Windows updates, and getting any form of official support if needed. I don't recommend this unless you're very accepting of the risk.

When doing that high of a resolution/refresh rate, you're definitely going to need certified DisplayPort cables to ensure they are up to snuff, and can properly pass the signal. Anything not certified, can say they work for whatever, but that doesn't mean it's guaranteed. You can check for proper certification here: https://www.displayport.org/product-category/cables-adaptors/?ps=iVanky, as you can see, only 2 models from iVANKY, so hopefully you have one of those two. Certified cables can make all the difference.

Just to confirm, you are seeing the drive in Disk Management to try and initialize the drive? Also, what slot's it in on the board? Some NVMe drives are incredibly picky about 100% being in a PCIe Gen 3.0+ slot, which is technically the requirement for NVMe anyway. Bunch of slots on that board are PCIe 2.0.

That's pretty unfortunate. Depending on how hard you squeezed with the pliers, you may have damaged things further by bending pins in. That being said, I've done this before and I've used the tip of a knife, or a tiny slot screwdriver to just sorta pry up gently from the cutout portion of the IDC header. Go slow and steady, and you may just get it off. Hopefully none of the pins are bent up. Good luck my guy!

I've had this happen with G-Sync enabled. Check the Nvidia control panel, see if it's on, and if it is, try turning it off. From there, you may need to tweak the settings in G-Sync for when to kick it on. In the case I had, it was just MC causing issue and eventually it fixed itself when my GPU driver updated to a newer version that didn't exist when the issue was present. Keep in mind, the monitor you have is G-Sync Compatible. It's not actual G-Sync, so it can have issues. It's not supposed to, but things happen.

Adding to this, I would also check that your RAM is validated for the board (https://www.asus.com/motherboards-components/motherboards/prime/prime-b650m-a-wifi/helpdesk_qvl_memory/?model2Name=PRIME-B650M-A-WIFI). you can also use the BIOS flashback to make sure you're on the latest BIOS. Test different DIMM slots on the board, try re-seating your GPU, etc. Might be worth double-checking the wiring to make sure it's all connected properly, especially that front panel I/O. May I also ask why you're only running 1 stick of RAM instead of two? I have seen in the past some boards refuse to boot in single-channel, and will only work when properly operating in dual-channel mode.

Np. Make sure to mark the post as solved and that response as the answer.

@BARBOUSS Ok, so that monitor is 1920 x 1080 at 144Hz maximum. You will not get any higher resolution than that from the display. Windows can sometimes screw up and say it supports more, but the higher resolutions won't work as that's the native resolution of the panel. You're only going to get 1080p at most. That monitor also only supports G-Sync over DP which is why you are not seeing it over HDMI. This is what I expected, as there's no point putting an HDMI 2.1 port on a 1080p144 panel, which as mentioned, HDMI 2.1 is required for VRR and therefore, G-Sync over HDMI. Sorry bud, but you have to use straight DP for that sweet 1080p144 G-Sync goodness. Using HDMI will not allow G-Sync usage.

What build of Windows are you on? Needs to be 19H1 or newer (that's a pretty old build, so I would hope you're newer), or W11. Outside of this, if the installer is having issues I'd grab a new one and try again. Just in case you haven't seen it, here's the StoreMI manual: https://www.amd.com/system/files/documents/storemi-user-guide.pdf.

StoreMI is supported on some specific chipsets, I assume you've checked that, but to be safe, what're you running for a chip and board?

You should never use a NEMA 5-15P (3-prong) plug in a NEMA 1-15R (2-prong) receptacle. Regardless of the rest of the issue, this right here is a fire risk. By doing this, you're not allowing the devices to be correctly grounded which can cause a shock risk for you, and a fire risk for the equipment if an over-volt/over-current situation happens and the equipment can't dump that to ground safely as it's supposed to. You really shouldn't even have NEMA 1-15R plugs, those generally are not up to code in most areas. Please, please, please only use 3-prong with 3-prong. You need to use a different outlet, or get an electrician to come in and correctly wire things to use a proper NEMA 5-15R. Your current setup is very unsafe.

Very weird that it's showing all 3 drives in a RAID array... not sure what's up with that. I would make sure you have the latest BIOS first and foremost. It seems like these drives are from the old system, yeah? Did you have them in a RAID there, or, how was the system configured prior?

So, it depends on what you have. DisplayPort 1.2a+ is normally used for G-Sync, but it can work over HDMI provided: You have a GTX 16-series or newer, or RTX 20-series or newer You have a monitor/display with support for HDMI VRR, which comes with HDMI 2.1 You have an appropriately supported cable (in the case of VRR, it'll need to be a High-Speed HDMI cable or better) The 3050 will support this. The Acer, which specific VG252Q is it? There's an LV, S, X, and P variant. Also, what are you using for cabling? I'd love to look into this a bit more, as it may be possible, but I need more details first.

I don't mean to be rude, but this is incorrect. I work in the industry making these product, more accurately providing support for similar products. There are limitations that can be applied. It's not common on most consumer cards, but it can be. Matrox does this commonly where they will support 6 displays, but only give 4 ports and have very specific requirements to get all 6. Now, in this case sure, it won't matter but I try to educate users to an extent so they can learn and not need to question things later. I was hoping they'd come back with more info. In terms of limits for MST hubs, I mean, there are based on how many ports the hub even has. Obviously you're only get 2 displays from a 2-port hub, 3 from a 3, and so on. Generally, 2, 3, and 4-port are the only options. The rest about bandwidth is correct. It'll come down to the max bandwidth supported by the hub with is a combination of the DP version, and HBR version implemented. From there, you can do some math, or some manufacturers provide little charts to tell you what resolution/refresh rate takes up what % of the total bandwidth for any one particular adapter. I'm still interested in what specific hub OP has, and what all they are trying to power to see if it's possible in their setup, but as long as they are within the bandwidth for the hub they should be fine. Always a good idea to confirm specs with manufacturer for both the hub, and the card though. I wouldn't always assume MST is supported, because it's only required for DP 2.0, 1.2 and 1.4 is optional. AMD's pretty good about it, as is Nvidia with their desktop cards, but mobile cards, and ports on custom cards used by folks like Dell can choose to just not use it.

Depends on which hub, the bandwidth utilization (desired resolution/refresh of each connected monitor), if the 7900 XTX supports MST, and for how many displays. Sometimes cards can only power 3 displays via MST, and the rest can be, or sometimes MST isn't supported at all and they must be direct. Why so many displays? My gut says either day trader, or SIM player.