SlayerOfHellWyrm

Except, you can't do that with all routers either. That's what I get for buying a cheap router years ago. Wired is just easier for me, I mean, I have to be in the room to get the print job anyway.

If only they all had that option...

Have you tried resetting it's network info? If you have it set up to receive an IP via DHCP, chances are the lease ran out, and it got a new IP, which means nobody knows where it is anymore. I had this problem with my HP Officejet, if the lease ran out, Id have to reconfigure it, same if we lost power. That being said, if you can map an IP, then problem solved, but my router is old, and doesn't have that function, so I just go wired now.

http://grooveshark.com/#!/s/Already+Gone+Album+Version/2WfEKf?src=5 Sadly, I couldn't find a streaming source where the audio doesn't fade out part way through. The MP3 I have is a clear the whole way through, so it sounds better, but meh.

It's just an issue with windowed, and Windows. I don't know the exact reason for things, but that's the cause.

It won't really make a difference. Personally, I'd wipe the old drive, then install the drivers for everything else.

You shouldn't need to initialize the disc, BIOS should detect it automatically.

That's what I would do

No matter which route you go, you're going to want that HDD for mass storage regardless. Not unless you can afford a larger SSD, which judging by the conversation thus far, you either can't, or don't want too.

'Tis the world of computers. There's as many options as parts, and ways to do things.

You're getting ahead of yourself, lol. If you want to go that route, then you should just clone the contents of the HDD over to the SSD, and you won't have to worry about re-installing windows and such. Lot better than creating a backup, and moving it over. Prevents issues. Someone already posted the link on how to go about that. Of course, you need an SSD with enough space to fit everything.

That's one way to go

If the save files are stored on the cloud, like Steam saves are, then you'll be fine. Online unlocks and such are tied to your account, and will also be fine. If you're overly cautious though, you can backup your steam library (including local saves) to an external HDD, and later import them to your mass storage. Bonus of that, is you'll also be copying the actual game over, so you won't need to re-download them. As for the driver thing, again, it'll be using the files based off the OS drive, which would be the SSD, so no. With the above stuff said though, you could lose game progress if you only play the games offline, and thus, they never sync the files to the cloud, so again, if you're cautious, just back up the steam folder in it's entirety and copy it over later. EDIT: The best way to explain the OS thing, is bulding 2 LEGO kits. Your drivers, desktop, all that, that's all the pieces of any given kit. The OS, and it's files for how to boot, and what to use are the instructions to the kit, So, the SSD, won't know about the HDD kit, hence it can't use any of it's pieces. Hope that clears things up.

There you go, your problem is your PSU. Kernel-Power 41 is caused when the PSU fails to supply power to the CPU. This could be caused by the PSU over-heating, it could be caused by a faulty component in it. Take the PSU to a repair tech, and see what they say. Most likely, it will be to get a new PSU.

Since this is 6 pages, I'll mention here I haven't bothered to read really any of it. I'm going to ask though, have you checked event viewer for the cause of the crash. and if you have, is it Kernel-Power (Event ID 41)

Yeah, dual booting is act7ually kind of common. Usually 2 different OS's, usually on the same drive, but occasionally on separate drives. As for formatting, it won't let you ever format the active OS drive. The way it will work when you have Windows on both drives, is the SSD OS, will use all the SSD files, since the boot files, and locations for those required files, will be on the SSD, and there will be nothing telling it to access a file on the HDD. So formatting it should work, and would be fine. Basically what formatting does, depends on the type. Quick formatting writes a new, blank file table, effectively saying there's no files on the drive, but they are their, just inaccessible to the OS. Standard formatting does the same, but it also writes over all data, typically with just 0's, effectively wiping the files from existence as well.

1) Seeing as I normal clone drives, instead of fresh installs, I'm not sure. Assuming boot priority is set properly, it'll use the files on the SSD, so it shouldn't give you a warning. I could be wrong though, seeing as I've never done a fresh install in this circumstance, only clones. 2) My guess, is around 40GB, as I typically see install sizes range from 30-40GB. Really depends on the version of 7 you're using. I'd say 40GB is the high end though 3) Unfortunately, no. I'm not actually online a whole lot, I just check in periodically during the day. Limited bandwidth and a data cap sucks massively.

There is a chance. Though I've never noticed anything personally. You can certainly wipe it afterwards. You can either right click the target drive, and select format, in File Explorer, or you can do it through Disk Management, or the DiskPart utility. I'd say do it through File explorer, and that should be enough to wipe it. Disk Management would definitely wipe it via format as well. The advantage of using Disk Management though, is once formatted, you'd need to go here anyway if you wish to do any sort of partitioning. Notice I didn't mention much on DiskPart... yeah, unless you're familiar with it, don't mess around with it, it's powerful. I simply mentioned it for the sake of listing all immediately available options.

Well since I was summoned here, I might as well help out. The product key, assuming you haven't hit it's max uses yet, will still work. If you have, you can deactivate your product key by using the System License Manager script built into Windows. slmgr.vbs -upk You'll want to do that in the Run dialogue box (Windows + R). That will un-install your product key, and set that copy of Windows, on that hard drive, back to trial mode, so the key can be re-used. Now that you have your key back, just go about installing Windows as you normally would. If you want to re-use the old HDD, change your BIOS boot order, to boot from the CD-DVD drive first, then your SSD. When it starts to boot, it'll use the Windows Installation disc, and will start that whole process. When you get to selecting a partition, just select the old HDD, and hit delete to wipe it's partition, then format to write over all the data on the disc. Then, you can go about installing Windows on your SSD. Once all that is done, your HDD will be wiped, and should be auto-detected in Windows, so you can use it as mass storage. If it's not picked up though, you'll have to go into Disk Management and sort that out (easy to do). Hope that helps, and hope it answered your 2 points, even if in a... long winded way. Edit: If you used an OEM disc, you may not have the product key written down anywhere. If you need it, before you do any of this, download and install Key Finder from Magical Jelly Bean. It should return your OS type, and the product key for it, so you have that for use.

For the record, it's a Windows bug, restarting will always fix it.

Technically yes, but the setup is janky as hell, and in all honesty, it wouldn't be worth it, you'd have so much latency when assets load in, and on top of that, whenever you hit a loading screen, shit would be slow.

You'd need to get a successful boot into Windows to turn the auto-restart back on. If you can though: System>Advanced System Settings>Advanced>Startup and Recover>Settings. About 2/3 down under "System Failure" is a check box for "Automatically restart". That's what causes Windows to restart after a crash, so you don't have to do it.

Odd, should be able to do it, assuming it's true dual-link, and not just pinned for dual-link (there is a difference, and it happens a lot)

When there is a dead fuse preventing OC protections or other measures from kicking in, yes. The fuses are to prevent extra current from entering the PSU, and being passed to other components, sams as every other fuse

I told you it was most likely a PSU issue Event viewer never fails. Edit: Also, the fuse would explain why your CPU was running so hot, since it couldn't trip the fuse, the extra current went into your processor, pumping out crap tons of heat.