Jump to content

SlayerOfHellWyrm

Silver Contributor
  • Posts

    1,021
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by SlayerOfHellWyrm

  1. What displays are already connected? What's the TV you are trying to add? How are you connecting each display to the GPU? You will need to be pretty specific about what cable is used, as in DP to DP, HDMI to DP, DP to HDMI or HDMI to DP and so on.
  2. It could be to do with you nesting .rar files with the .iso that you're then trying to compress. You shouldn't really nest compressed files/folders, it usually results in a larger file, and can cause other issues. Most notably, if you nest too many times, you'll flag some A/Vs for creating a RAR/TAR/ZIP bomb, aka, one compressed file that expands out to something massive and eats your CPU as you do it. Side note, what in the hell is this ISO that's 40GB? That's a chonky boi.
  3. Make sure the Bluetooth services are also running. Windows has a nasty habit of shutting them off when you are doing things like uninstalling/installing/updating BT drivers. I've seen it quite a few times over my years. Might not be the issue in your case, but if the Bluetooth Support Service is off (which controls pairing) it won't let you nuke devices you've previously paired (it should, but Windows is Windows and sometimes does dumb things).
  4. It's not a bad idea. I don't like doing part recommendations, only because I don't want any responsibility.
  5. Yeah, not on the QVL so that could be part of the issue.
  6. So, long shot as that memory kit is NOT on the QVL for that board, but try matching the timings of the below, validated RAM kit. I can't guarantee that'll work, but it might help to loosen the timings based on that. As a note, whenever you build a new rig, this is a good lesson for why you should ideally stick to the QVL. I know this is an old rig and it's in the past, and hopefully you do it now, but when you gotta do funky shit in the past and don't record what you had to do you get this sort of issue
  7. Hey, so what colour mode are you in? According to the manual sRGB adjustment is not possible in every colour mode:
  8. So, you're missing quite a few drivers... What you can do is right-click on each of those devices, then go to Properties > Details > Change the property to Hardware IDs. From there you can look up the VEN_#### and the DEV_#### with a PCIe/PCI lookup site online to figure out what the chip is on that device, and try to find a driver for it. Now, those are probably all built-in chips on your board just looking at the names. That said, did you confirm the card isn't just working? A lot of USB stuff is native, especially NEC/Renesas/Intel, because they are freaking old. It's dummy hard to read, but from experience in seeing the chip enough, I think that's a Renesas/NEC - µPD720201. Any manufacturer that has a card with the 720201 in it, should have a driver you could install that should work. That said, try connecting a USB flash drive or something first to just see if it shows, or check under your USB controllers for it. I don't remember how this specific chip reports, but it should be pretty obvious. I think, and I'm going off memory from work here, the uPD720201 should show with VEN_1912 and DEV_0014.
  9. No problems homie. I'm very familiar with this sort of product. Anything with USB-C data should be able to use most of it. USB-C PD capable devices can also use the passthrough for charging, and anything with DP-Alt mode can use the video out. The NIC (that Ethernet port) will only work on USB-C devices that either are running an OS with the required native support for whatever chip is in that, or it will need a driver installed. These things commonly use either a Realtek RTL8153 or an ASIX AX88179/AX88179A. Both chips work in a lot of stuff natively, including many phones. I'm silly, that thing doesn't have a NIC lol. I'm so used to them having it. Also explains why its cost is so low.
  10. Which specific kit of Corsair 2x 32GB 6000Mt/s? There's a possibility it's not on the QVL for the board and causing issues. Not enough people check the QVL... Also, I can't tell if you have a display connected. I just helped assemble a new workstation for a lab at my work today and without a monitor connected it refused to POST and enabled the same LEDs (note, this was a B550 ASRock board, so not the same board).
  11. Can you provide more details please? For instance, what's the make and model of the monitor? What type of cable is connecting it to your computer? What input is the monitor on? Have you double-checked the monitor is turned on and can at least load the OSD (on-screen display)? Can you test it with anything else? If your keyboard isn't connecting, are you plugging it in through the monitor via a USB hub built in to the monitor? There's a lot of important details that haven't been provided that could help us, help you
  12. So, that's what is more appropriately called a USB-C multiport adapter. The power is not required, it's a PD passthrough of 100W. Meaning, you can plug it into any USB-C host that is supported and everything should work, but if you also connect a 100W charger to the USB-C PD passthrough port (PD = power delivery, this port should be marked) it will then also charge that device up to either 100W or more likely, 85W (most USB-C devices like this need 15W of power and will take from the host on it's own, but with PD plugged in, they reserve it from the charger and 100 - 15 = 85). That 100W is not needed, and you don't have to connect a charger. Any USB-C compliant host should be able to output the power needed. If power was required it would come with a power adapter or indicate as such. Now, in terms of watching video from a P7A? I don't think the P7A supports DisplayPort Alternative Mode (DP-Alt mode, or DPAM) which is required for video output over a USB-C port. I think DPAM was added in the 8, but the P7A doesn't support this as far as I understand.
  13. So, two things... 1) your clock shouldn't be sitting at 465 MHz, that's weird. 2) You should not be hitting 61.3% GPU power, but ALSO be hitting a power limit. What is your PSU and how many power cables do you have connected? Something is fishy here. This is closer to what I'd expect, where GPU power is near max while hitting power limit.
  14. Yes, they have stopped working with them.
  15. Apple Silicon base versions (M1, M2, and M3) all only support the built-in display and a single extenral. Bypassing this limit requires 3rd party USB display adapters powered by DisplayLink or Silicon Image. Alternatively, you'd have to bump up to a model with Mx Pro, Max or Ultra to by-pass the limit. You can look up the specific display limits of any Apple product here: Apple - Support - Technical Specifications
  16. Wait, what 2 pins on that did you bridge? There is a chance you blew up the TPM SPI, which may have caused other damage. Shouldn't, normally, the RGB and TPM should be decently isolated from each other, but I've seen weirder things. I don't say this to scold, but you have to be extra careful and check the manual before you go bridging contacts if you're not 100% certain of what contacts you are bridging. Even when I'm sure, I'll still double or triple check to be safe. Also, for the future: Those are the two pins to bridge that correspond to the power button.
  17. It depends on the architecture of the controller, and how many things are connected to the controller. There's STT and MTT-based controllers. If they are connecting a lot to one controller, yes, that'll start splitting bandwidth per port. STT (Single transaction translator) and MTT (Multi transaction translator) hub configs boil down to how the hub operates when you mix in different device speeds. STT is not ideal, but is fine in most circumstances, MTT is best. Essentially, STT uses one transaction translator which handles talking between LS and FS (low speed and full speed) USB devices when the device and controller speed doesn't match. With STT, that translator is on the hub controller, meaning when it has to drop speed to handle the slower device, the entire controller while temporarily drop in speed, until it needs to talk to a higher-speed device again. This can cause issues when you're loading a controller up with many highspeed and low speed devices operating at max bandwidth because that translation time causes delays in signal processing and this can cause speeds to waiver from the constant mode switching. With MTT, it's one translator per-port, so each port can swap speeds as needed and they don't affect the other ports. In terms of overloading a USB controller, when bandwidth runs out devices just fail to connect, and you'll get a warning message that it's out of resources (at least in Windows). This can also happen if you connect to many endpoints for that particular controller (not going to explain that rabbit hole, LTT did a video on it) and if you start drawing too much power. It's very rare for you to actually fully saturate a USB controller though, because it requires the full data rate all the time and that rarely ever happens.
  18. Just a note, QVL isn't a list of "Get this, or nah dawg", it's a list of "We have tested this specific product and can confirm it will work at what it's rated for, anything not listed is a YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary) and it's not guaranteed to do anything outside JDEC spec". You can still try playing around, and you might get lucky.
  19. It's possible your particular kit isn't on the QVL. What's the exact model of your RAM? For Corsair, their model numbers are things like CMH32GX5M2X6000C30. As a note, I only see their Vengeance RGB at DDR5 6000 CL30 being on the QVL. Regular DDR5 CL30 Vengeance is not in the QVL. This means you're not guaranteed to have XMP/DOCP/XPO working.
  20. What is the cable you are using? Are you using any sort of extension or adapter with it? What are you plugging it into? (For instance, a USB hub that's externally powered, or the USB-C 20 Gbps port on the rear of my Super Cool Motherboard Model by Motherboard Company)
  21. Given the age of the hardware, I assume this is either an old, old rig, or purchased from used hardware, correct? Make sure you're at least on BIOS F1, double-check all the mounts for the cooler and such, ensure it's all plugged in correctly (make sure monitor is plugged into GPU). Outside of that, my usual tricks are things like test the RAM in another system or different RAM in that one, etc, etc. won't work here really because most folks don't have this age of hardware still lying around. If you do though, definitely cross test.
  22. Just as a note, it's a single sense pin. Norma 6 pin is 2 guaranteed +12V, a 3rd optional one ( almost always populated and used though) and 3 ground lines. The extra 2 pins on the 8-pin, introduce the sense line and a ground. The sense line does 2 jobs: 1) Tell the GPU power is definitely connected, and 2) tell the GPU if a 6-pin is there or not. In a proper 6-pin to 8-pin, that sense is never there to make sure you don't exceed the 6-pin spec, as it's up to the GPU to make use of the line and not pull the extra power. There's no should/shouldn't work here, straight up. It's part of the spec to allow them to work, but at lower power. As someone working for a HW manufacturer, I just wanted to step in and correct this.
  23. You're going to be hard pressed to find one for $20, sorry. HDMI to DP requires an active converter to... you know, convert between HDMI signaling and DP signaling. Those active converter chips are the majority of the cost.
  24. Does System Report > Power show that it's properly getting the full 30W? If so, it might just be that the 30W is barely enough to charge based on your usage. Granted, the Air isn't meant for any real heavy use. Gaming is going to push it pretty hard, even when you're doing "light" gaming which will cause more power draw, as will downloading a game which requires unzipping a bunch of files and causes a higher CPU usage and thus, power draw. I'm not super familiar with how well it charges off 30W only, but if it's pulling 30W in System Report and then when you start a download or something it says that it's not charging, then that's your answer. A higher wattage charger *may* fix things.
×