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KnightSirius

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Everything posted by KnightSirius

  1. Reviving this thread as it's a rare case that might be related to an issue I'm having as well. Unfortunately you didn't mention what exactly the issue you were having was and went straight into the problem solving you attempted. You mention So I'm assuming you get some sort of software crash or error while using the microphone (Teamspeak or otherwise). If you're still having this issue I'd appreciate if you tested something for me as I think we may have a related bug. Specifically, I'm on an ASUS X670E (AM5) board and you're on an ASUS B550 (AM4) board. I've also found one other person who has this issue with a Gigabyte X570 board (AM4). My scenario is the following: Have the ModMic Wireless dongle plugged into the PC and the mic on and connected (though the latter part doesn't seem to matter). Then I use Dolphin Emulator as my test, (this occurs with many other applications this is just my example). I simply open the application (Dolphin) under two conditions. First without any software using the microphone and the second is with something using the microphone. What I use to test the microphone is opening the windows "Sound" panel (the old one with the tabs for 'Playback' 'Recording' 'Sounds' and 'Communication'). Test 1 1. Select 'Playback' tab of the Sound panel. (Ensures the microphone is not being accessed) 2. Launch Dolphin. 3. Observe the delay in launching and the program opening. There should be basically none. Test 2 1. Select 'Recording' tab of the Sound panel. (This accesses the microphone to show the levels). 2. Launch Dolphin. 3. Observe the delay in launching. In my case this takes MUCH longer, 15+ seconds compared to <1s. Further if you repeat test 2 and while Dolphin is 'stuck' opening, switching to the playback tab in the sound panel should result in Dolphin immediately launching in response. Again this applies to many different applications and games, Dolphin is just really quick to test. Some games outright crash under scenario 2. Elden Ring for example will just fail to launch for instance. I have more info related to this from my own research but I won't info dump here if it's unrelated.
  2. Hard to believe it's been 10 years, even harder to believe that I was a pretty early user. Didn't realise I had signed up so early on! I've never posted a whole lot nor consistently but the forum has been a great resource ever since it gained popularity alongside LTT. Much appreciation to all the Admins and Maintainers that keep this place running, it truly is thankless work!
  3. Why does it have to be from LTT? Start watching r/HardwareSwap on Reddit, Facebook Marketplace, Kijiji/Craigslist etc... and start piecing something new together. LTT is not going to reply to such an inquiry let alone give you some special deal.
  4. Here is a good breakdown of what the differences are (also a video version in the article) but the main difference is X570 supports PCIe 4.0 whilst B550 does not. It may also have a better VRM configuration which is useful for overclocking but that depends on the manufacturer, it also tends to have a few more USB ports and such which is generally useful. Most people here will rightfully tell you, that unless you know you need PCIe 4.0 you shouldn't bother with X570 and save the money. However, in my opinion I'd go X570 as long as you're not paying an extravagant amount more over a similar B550 board. PCIe 4.0 might not be the most useful thing right now but GPUs will eventually leverage that extra bandwidth and high speed SSDs like those used in the PS5 are certainly going to become more consistently utilised in game development in the future so you'd be allowing yourself the opportunity to upgrade your system in the next 3-6 years to take advantage of that if you wanted it. I stick with my PC for around 7 years at a time, so to me the extra cost now is worth it for use in the future but it's really up to you to determine whether it is worth it.
  5. Looks great! I've built a PC for a family member with that motherboard and it was quite good, also well rated overall. My only suggestion is look further into M.2 Drives, you should be able to get a 500-1TB drive for a reasonable price and it's easier to do now than later. 256 is pretty small these days especially if you want to load a few often-played games on it. The Corsair MP510 series is very high performing and cost effective; the same goes for Sabrent Rocket drives which also have PCIe 4.0 variants if you want to go that route.
  6. 3600MHz in the C16 to C18 range is the sweet spot, higher frequency than this is wasted and lower leaves some performance on the table. Should be easily achievable within budget at 16GB-32GB (depending on your needs), although I don't know what EU prices are like.
  7. Apologies but I'm am not quite understanding what you are trying to say in this post. But as for the components yes that is understandable that you don't have any available on hand. So your only options are if you have a friend/family member that has some or if possible or seeing if a local PC shop would be willing to help troubleshoot components with/for you. Other option is doing a return on the Motherboard or CPU and hoping you guessed which is the problem. (I'd say the Motherboard is a more likely to be the issue). Ah, so you had Windows working for a time and enabling XMP seems to be what caused this. That is very strange, clearing CMOS as you have done already should have fixed this issue immediately though, which is why I suspect something else is at play (dead components, or compatibility issues even though there shouldn't be any). Some further troubleshooting I suppose you can try is removing ALL unnecessary components. Extra HDDs, Extra SSDs, Run only 1 stick of RAM, unplug all unnecessary connectors on your motherboard, unplug all extra peripherals. If you have a PS/2 Keyboard you can use, use that instead of a USB one. Basically the goal is run the system with the BARE minimum required to function and then slowly reintroduce components/peripherals until it starts having issues again and you may figure out more information about what the problem is. Another potential option is create a bootable linux thumb drive (info on how to do this is readily available) and try booting from that stick into linux and see if you encounter issues there. Lastly you may be able to wipe your drive from the BIOS using the RAID utilities but I've never used them for that purpose before so I don't know what exactly that'll do as opposed to doing it through the Windows installer. If you're having trouble getting your PC to boot from the Windows install drive you can manually select the boot drive by pressing F11 during boot on MSI boards.
  8. It seems likely you have a either faulty component or maybe their BIOS support for that chip is not great. It's not a good sign being unable to boot sometimes and seeing that CPU LED light up. That is very likely the root cause of the problems you are having and Windows is just more sensitive to it hence entering repair mode constantly since it sees something wrong. You said you've reseated your CPU already which would very likely have fixed any install issues that were present in the CPU. You've also tried single stick of RAM with no better results and you managed to try different BIOS versions as well. Honestly you've exhausted most of the easy options for troubleshooting and the next easiest options are swapping out components completely with different ones if possible. Trying a different CPU if you have a friend or family member that has one they could let you use to troubleshoot. Same with motherboard, RAM etc... until you can isolate which components are good and which are bad if any. You alternatively ask a local computer hardware shop if they would be willing to help you troubleshoot, if they offer customer building then they likely have components hanging around for general troubleshooting. If not possible you can take a gamble and return/exchange your motherboard or CPU (ideal) or RMA one and see if the new part fixes the issue, but that can take awhile and isn't guaranteed to fix the problem.
  9. Well they are Canadian and quite proud of it. It has large Coniferous trees on the left side which kinda sums up Canada as a whole but also BC specifically where they are based with their ancient Douglas Fir forests; Then there are the Northern lights at the top. Pretty clear visual description of the Great White North, save for the white which wouldn't have sold as well I'm sure hence the black colour scheme, there is the little bit of snow included though so it's still represented. You could also argue the trees are designed to look as though they are covered in snow themselves. Personally I absolutely adore the design, and would have loved to have one for Christmas! Team did an awesome job, now we just need a matching wrist rest in the same assortment of size options!
  10. Just wanted to reinforce that B&H is great. They have awesome support, and never had a problem with them before. I'd rather purchase through them than NewEgg actually. Also specifically for Canadians they're great because they have their own brokerage process so you don't have to worry about ridiculous duties on expensive items as it's included in the price, and often times buying through them is cheaper than buying it in Canada in the first place.
  11. What specifically about the 4000D do you like? Is it the form factor? The Mesh front? Tempered Glass? Separate PSU Compartment? Colour options? It's hard to match all of those with support for many 3.5" drives since they are becoming less and less popular for mainstream users. The first to come to mind that satisfies all requirements except for form factor is the Fractal Meshify 2 (not the Meshify S2 which only supports 3 x 3.5" drives).
  12. Summary Nintendo has over the last ~12 hours or so been issuing DMCA claims against Twitch streamers who are playing "Hyrule Warriors: Age of Calamity". With the reasoning being that it is an unreleased video game and thus in violation of Nintendo's rights. Hyrule Warriors: Age of Calamity's release date is set for November 20 2020 which for the streamers affected is the current date in their timezone and they have legally obtained their copy. Regardless this has resulted in the suspension of several Twitch-partnered streamers from Japan, Korea, Australia and European countries. My thoughts It's a rough time to be a Twitch streamer with the still ongoing issues of music copyright, and then you have Nintendo showing their muscles as they like to do once in awhile. As usual it's a bad look for Nintendo. Sources AeonFrodo Tweet Linkus7's Tweet REVERSALx7's Twitter - Infringement Notice Linkus7's YouTube - Nintendo Issues DMCA Takedowns on Age of Calamity Streamers
  13. Surprised nobody has mentioned it but I've seen people have good success in the past bringing chips in this condition to a jeweller / watchmaker who has tools designed for such intricate work. Of course you'd have to explain the situation and see if they're willing to give it a shot, but if you are looking for a professional those people are the closest you'll get.
  14. Should be either a single 8-Pin or a single 6-Pin, which one it is depends entirely on the model you purchased. If you let us know that, we can tell you exactly what you need or you can simple search the model number yourself and look at the manufacturers product page (should it still exist) and it will tell you what you require!
  15. Seen this before, and have been meaning to do it myself with my old Q9550 I retired years ago. You can see here the person who made this sanded down the edges of the substrate so it's no longer sharp. Beyond that it's a simple matter of drilling a clean hole through it, ideally with a drill press and if you want to go the extra mile you can counter sink each side of the hole so whatever you put through the hole to carry it won't get worn down as quickly. It's a pretty fun way to re-purpose dead or useless CPUs!
  16. Take everything I say with a grain of salt, I'm not an expert and haven't done any of this myself. It's also been years since I watched Jay do glass haha, I expect if he was filing down it was just to clean up the ends after the break. If you're trying to take off more than say 5mm of material I'd reckon you're going to be far more likely to chip the glass, could be wrong though maybe wet sanding and other methods don't carry much risk of that happening. Also yes precisely, bending glass is very difficult. However, just doing straight runs with fitting to make the turns is much easier, you just score, snap and smooth the ends and as long as your measurements are correct you're golden.
  17. Yep exactly, the reason it's so difficult is because you have to score and snap the pieces. Meaning you need length to snap them off so you need the measurements perfect for the first cut cause you can't snap off a tiny piece or file it down because it's will just chip and ruin the look and function of the glass. If I recall the recommended method is to do your runs in PETG first make sure it's a perfect length and fit and then do the final cut on the glass. This should work in theory anyways assuming you transfer the measurements perfectly.
  18. I don't think you're being overambitious. With the proper research, planning, and careful attention; I don't see any reason you can't do it. It is certainly one the most difficult materials as was mentioned already but if you want to put the time in it can be done. It's not like when you go to do it you only have one chance and if you screw it up everything explodes, maybe you'll ruin the glass you ordered and you need to reorder more and try again. Worst case you can just switch to PETG at any time as the parts you'll be using should work for both as long as they sizing is the same. As long as you follow the rules of leak testing your hardware itself should never be in danger. As for the benefits, glass is great, it's (as far as I understand) very similar in strength to PETG, glycol based fluids won't damage it, and it's scratch resistant. It also looks the best due to it's clarity, which won't degrade over time unless you have build up. I say if you have the time and want a project to work on why not try it.
  19. Your specs on paper don't seem to be the issue, but you should certainly move your card to the x16 slot if you're chasing performance otherwise you're leaving some on the table for no good reason. Did you properly re-install drivers? DDU is your friend for GPU swaps. I'd try this if you haven't and see if anything improves.
  20. This is a pretty easy one! Tin T2s! Well known at this point for their extraordinarily good sound performance and features at a low price. Detachable cables specifically are a huge plus because if your cables get damaged you just buy some new ones and keep jamming! They're very neutral, and detailed and also quite lightweight. Amazon UK (£44.99) Zeos Review DMS Review Steve Guttenberg Review (I don't personally care for the guy, but even he is impressed!) The previously mentioned KZ ZS10 Pro are a great option as well. Although have a worse stock cable, don't include foam tips and are a bit bulkier if it matters to you. As for sound they have better bass than the T2s with a bit less soundstage but more detailed overall. Really down to preference and/or availability, you'd be happy with either choice. Amazon UK (£39.99) Zeos Review
  21. 137th with 937k points! Very humbling... ahahahaha
  22. Ah a good lesson, don't listen to these "Microsoft Agents", I'm assuming this was through the MS forum. They always provide the most useless canned responses. MS has the Windows 10 Update Assistant which will allow you to update to the latest available version. Simply download, run it, and follow the instructions it'll do the rest.
  23. This is interesting and not something I've ever actually thought about. I suppose the market and manufacturers both decided at some point matte is the best 'all-rounder' option and that's what has stuck around for the most part. I wonder how much cost there is to have two different SKUs glossy/matte. Then you have the problem of allocation, how many do you make? It gets messy quickly from that point of view, so it is understandable why they've stopped doing it. Especially because you then have to educate consumers on the difference when most don't care. It would be nice to have the option though, because in my lighting situation I'd be fine without the heavy anti-glare that is on my current monitors in favour of a bit more clarity. Edit: Seems it is possible to remove anti-glare coatings yourself but it's a pretty big hassle and not sure how well it works with different and/or newer displays. (2012) How to Remove Anti-glare AG Coating from Dell U2312HM-LCD
  24. Honestly getting a Zen DAC with those DT990s would be considered a good set-up. Far better than most people would ever personally own anyways and that's only around $300 total? However, if you were to desire an upgrade from that the most effective way to do it would be upgrade your headphones themselves. The DT990s aren't bad by any means but they aren't 'impressive' I suppose is the best word for it. Some major upgrades to those would be HIFIMAN SUNDARA which are a planar magnetic headphones and are quite special. There are also the DT 1990 Pros which are a great neutral sounding headphone and is a contender for the usual suspects like the Sennheiser HD600 (or the indentical but cheaper HD6XX if you can get them on massdrop). All of these are in the $350 - $500 USD range and are the end-game choice for many audiophiles. Beyond that you can get in higher quality amps and DACs and then spiral out of control lol, but you shouldn't need better equipment except maybe with the DT 1990 Pros because those are very difficult to drive. Then of course if you're looking at the typical insane audiophile stuff it gets out of hand quickly with like ABYSS headphones which can cost ~$4000 for some models, or Audeze etc... and for equally impressive equipment you can easily spend another $2000 total for a separate AMP/DAC with balanced options etc... 'Good' is clearly a very subjective term in this case haha. Some will only consider a set-up that's >$5000 'good' but realistically anything >$250 spent on proper equipment is considered 'good' it's just a matter of to what degree. If you're happy with the sound I'd say that's 'good'!
  25. Just wanna echo the recommendation of the ifi Zen DAC, it's an absolutely killer product for it's price. [Zeos Review] If you want to get the most out of them then you absolutely want to treat them to some proper external equipment. Driving 250Ω headphones off of even a 'high end' onboard audio implementation likely isn't providing adequate power to really let them perform at their peak. Getting an external DAC/AMP should improve your experience simply from having more power to drive the headphones.
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