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About KnightSirius

  • Title
    Junior Member
  • Birthday December 14

Contact Methods

  • Steam

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Coding. Computer Hardware. Audio Equipment. Music Theory. Anime.
  • Biography
    Game Programmer, Hardware Nut, Audiophile & Part-Time Otaku.
  • Occupation
    Gameplay Programmer


  • CPU
    i7-4790K @ 4.7Ghz
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte G1. Sniper 5
  • RAM
    32GB Dominator Platinum DDR3-1600
  • GPU
    EVGA RTX 2070 XC Ultra
  • Case
    ThermalTake Core X71
  • Storage
    2 x Samsung 840 EVO 256GB [RAID 0]
  • PSU
    EVGA G2 750W
  • Display(s)
    1 x LG 4K IPS, 2 x Asus 1080p IPS
  • Cooling
    Noctua NH-D15
  • Keyboard
    CoolerMaster MasterKeys Pro M [MX Brown]
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum
  • Sound
    Cambridge Audio DACMagic+ & ADAM F7 Monitors (BAL) & Sennheiser HD598
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Enterprise [Optimize-Offline]
  • Laptop
    Asus UX501V (Regrets)

Recent Profile Visitors

1,459 profile views
  1. If it were a reputable brand and model of power supply I would say you'd be fine. However, it's definitely a questionable unit so I'd certainly upgrade it as well. Best case it runs fine and you don't have any noticeable problems. Worst case the PSU kills several components as it tries it's best to handle the load maybe giving off some magic smoke in the process. Take a look at the up to date PSU Tier List here on the forum. Try to get a 550w to 600w B tier unit if possible, and if you plan to carry the PSU over to a new system when you next upgrade try to get a B+ Tier unit. Also highly recommend EVGA for the 1650 Super, their support is awesome if you ever need it.
  2. Welcome to the forums! Just a note since you are new it's generally not recommended to 'necro' (revive) a thread as old as this one. Always make new posts so your topic actually has a chance to be seen by others. If you're thinking of necroing an old thread simply include a link to it in a new post so people can see you've put the effort into searching and what you found; so that we're all on the same page. That aside, I honestly don't have any good news for you. You've tried everything I could have recommended. It could certainly be a faulty/misreporting sensor but you can't know for sure unless you get your own thermal probe under the IHS of the chip (or wherever the original probe is located). That's tedious and probably won't be very enlightening. Only option left is get on with Acer support and try to find somebody who understands the technical aspect to the degree you do and explain the situation. Best outcome is you're under warranty still and they repair or replace it. However, this is unlikely and considering the world is basically shut down at the moment you will probably be waiting a long time just to talk to them. I know how it feels to save up for something that long and have it fail, buyer's remorse sucks. Your best option is just run it into the ground and get the most out of it, you've done what you can. The only true resolution to this problem is to upgrade when you can to something reliable and more easily user serviceable. As most on the forum would, I'd recommend a desktop if possible and they can be built quite cheap there is a lot of information on this forum and the internet on how to do this efficiently. On the flip side if you require a laptop they're only getting better and cheaper especially with AMD really pushing the limits of laptop processing power.
  3. Seems nobody has mentioned it thus far but Linus already addressed the #HireMadison thing blowing up on FP and then YouTube. I'm sure he'll address it again tomorrow on WAN show but in case anybody can't wait he talked about it on Awesome Hardware on Tuesday. (Timestamped 34:17 or so) TL;DW He can't discuss HR related things including the hiring process so you won't hear anything about it from them directly. If you want to watch for news on whether she was hired check for her portrait to appear on the staff section of their site.
  4. Damn, first PIA, now Honey. Seems likely LTT is going to be acquiring some new sponsors soon LOL.
  5. I'd suggest try streaming to YouTube to see if the same issues arise, as they don't limit you as far as I know (at least they didn't with me). That'll tell you if it's a configuration thing or a Twitch thing at the very least. Also I don't recommend exceeding Twitch's maximum bitrate which is 6000. Don't think they necessarily care you're going over their limit anymore but they used to when it was capped at 3500. That said 3500 is pretty standard for 720p/60 at least for the streamers I watch, but higher is useful if you are streaming at say 1080p/60 and beyond. Forget if they restrict higher resolution to affliate/partners but just keep that in mind regardless. Your settings as you have them currently seem solid though and are pretty much what I myself have set up from when I was optimizing my own stream setup. Just make sure your profile setting is set to high as @WereCatf mentioned as this is most optimal from the testing I've seen in the past. So I'd definitely test it out on YouTube and see where the issue lies.
  6. What GPU did you have prior to this? integrated graphics or another card? Did you follow the suggested upgrade steps, by running DDU (Display Driver Uninstaller) before installing the new card? Have you tried re-seating the GPU? (Unplugging it and plugging it back into the PCIe slot) Have you tried removing the GPU and booting as you would before the upgrade? System specs? They are helpful to know, PSU included. I'm unsure of your skill level, and don't know what you have/have not tried so far. So give us some details. The beeping every 20 seconds means something is definitely wrong. First step if you didn't run DDU is make sure the PC still works without the GPU, get into windows run that and shut down cleanly before attempting to install the GPU again. GPU seems to be displaying fine just before it boots into windows so GPU seems to be working fine for the moment. Also sidenote put pictures in a spoiler tag in the future, just keeps the thread clean.
  7. Glad I was of help then, and yes that MSI monitor is a good option as well but lacked FreeSync so I didn't include it. It's an SVA panel which is a middle ground between TN and IPS, and has good colour coverage as well. However, it's only 8 bit rather than the 8 bit + FRC Acer I recommended above so it's a bit of downgrade in that regard.
  8. Not on Floatplane, yet. Once it gets it's more finalized look up and running that Luke has been teasing on the WAN show for the past few weeks I'll probably join. I'll support anything that has even a remote chance of hurting or disrupting YouTube.
  9. My 2 cents is if you're going to be doing a triple monitor configuration stick to the same resolution be that 4K or 1440p. I have a single 4K and 2 1080 panels and even if they were 1440s it'd still be annoying. 1) Dragging between windows has a lot of 'dead' area where you can't move between displays because of the different resolutions. 2) Windows scaling for programs sucks in general, especially when you're mixing resolutions. Some programs will look great on the 4K center display and you move them over and the scaling breaks making it look huge or small etc... usually looks blurry regardless of the program. So again, I'd recommend sticking with a single resolution for all 3. In which case getting 4K at high refresh with G-sync, IPS, good colour etc... is going to be absurdly expensive ($1000 - $2000 per monitor) so I'd probably skip looking at 4K, because for the price of one monitor you can get all 3 1440p monitors. But I included suggestions for 4K regardless. 4K Acer Predator X27 bmpiphzx - ~$1800 USD Asus ROG Swift PG27UQ - ~$1800 USD Acer Nitro XV273K - ~$1000 USD (Cheapest option, but lacks HDR support like the others have) 1440p Non-Curved Acer XB271HU - (~$650 USD) - IPS + 10 Bit (8 + FRC) + 100% sRGB / 1440p / 165Hz @ 4ms / G-SyncAsus PG278QR - (~$560 USD) - TN + 8 Bit + 100% sRGB / 1440p / 165Hz @ 1ms / G-SyncDell S2716DGR - (~$500 USD) - TN + 8 Bit + 99% sRGB / 1440p / 144Hz @ 1ms / G-Sync 1440p Curved Asus ROG Swift PG27VQ - (~$740 USD) - TN + 8 Bit + 95% sRGB / 1440p / 165Hz @ 1ms / G-Sync The non-curved Acer is the best option of the bunch in terms of display quality with it's IPS and 10bit (8bit + FRC) panel. But otherwise they are all very similar high quality displays. As for curved displays there are not many that fit your requirements other than this Asus as most curved displays are larger than 27" and/or lack G-Sync. The curved display market focuses mainly on ultrawides and curved displays in general are quite expensive for what you're getting compared to flat panels.
  10. Yikes, I always assume if it's not stated that the OP is in the US. I'm in Canada too and I always end up looking at Amazon.ca at first and pricing is brutal as always. It's ridiculously difficult to get much of anything in the budget range while still being really worth your money here and it sucks. Your best bet is to wait for a good price drop. Make sure to use the Keepa extension for amazon it'll show you price history so you can judge if prices are likely to drop on Amazon. Also check massdrop weekly to see if anything pops up in the audiophile section for speakers. You may also want to look at used passive speakers locally (kijiji etc...) there is a lot of selection and some good deals to be had if you know what you're looking for but you will also need some sort of amp unit which is just as hard to get a decent one for a good price as it is powered speakers. Crappy situation all around.
  11. Well first off, you seem to be looking at a wide variety of speakers. You have some powered speakers with their own built-in interface options while you have some like the JBL that will require an external interface to control sources and volume. I'll assume that you don't have an external interface you'll be using with these in which case scratch the JBLs off your list because an interface will run you over budget quickly for anything decent, not to mention the price for those are per speaker ($180 each!). As for the rest of the options, the Edifier set ($150 USD) is probably fine. It's a very entry level set of speakers so they won't blow your mind but they'll probably be good to most folks. Definitely better than built-in TV speakers and cheap soundbars. However, If you're more discerning of ear then you'll want to put a bit more money down. The Fluance set ($200 USD) will be a huge step up from the Edifiers and they also have bluetooth support which you mentioned is something you're interested in. The Swan D1010-IV's I haven't heard of before but reviews seem to place them as a good budget option. However, I can't seem to find them sold anywhere. They may have been discontinued as they are not even available on Swan's site. You give up the bluetooth functionality and some nice to have features like a remote which comes with both the Edifier and Fluance sets. Same goes for the Micca's which are well priced and seems to be better than the Swan's according to this review at least. But again no bluetooth or remote functionality. My personal recommendation is forego the Swan, Micca and Edifier sets and get the Fluance. They're well reviewed, quite new compared to the other models, will have noticeably better sound (previous retail price was $300) and have the functionality you want while being reasonably close to your price range. My philosophy is stretch yourself a little further on purchases like this so you get the best you can afford now and you don't end up regretting it later thinking "if only I had spent another $25, $30, $40... I could have had xxx". But don't just take my word for it, do some more of your own research. I'm not well versed in budget audio equipment but googling "'best powered bookshelf speakers under $200" yields decent results that at least show you products you may not have considered. As well search for reviews that'll help you compare your options like "Fluance A40i's vs xxx model" see if there is better option available for the same price.
  12. Well if you like the look of the 280X I say go for it, it's not a bad case just not the best Corsair has made. However, if cooling is a serious concern of yours I'd suggest looking at the Fractal Design Meshify C line it's similar-ish in style and has great cooling. There is also the Lian Li O11 which GamersNexus says is pretty much just a better version of the 280X.
  13. Except that isn't an ultra wide monitor. That would be because it is a regular 16:9 display not an ultra wide.
  14. All options for this are expensive, this luxury monitor territory. Also 144Hz in this category doesn't exist as far as I know. Highest available is 120hz. 99% chance you can't tell the difference though. (Although the LG seems to support 144Hz but only on the FreeSync model) LG 34GK950G-B - 1440p / 120Hz / IPS 8 Bit + FRC / G-Sync / 135% sRGB (98% DCI-P3) Acer Predator X34 - 1440p / 120Hz / IPS 8 Bit + FRC / G-Sync / 100% sRGB Dell Alienware 1900R - 1440p / 120Hz / IPS 8 Bit / G-Sync / 99% sRGB Asus ROG Swift PG348Q - 1440p / 100Hz / IPS 8 Bit + FRC / G-Sync / 100% sRGB The LG is the best of the bunch. It can do 120Hz refresh rate if overclocked and has a better panel in terms of colour accuracy than the rest by a sizeable amount.
  15. Ryzen is a great choice for streaming so good choice there. I'd stick with the 16GB of RAM, it's pretty cheap and you mention you want to upgrade it little by little later so RAM will be something you'll come back to for sure so might as well just get it out of the way now and save the money you'd lose buying less. Also having the ability to do local recordings in addition to streaming is good to have regardless. As for the PSU that Glacier unit is getting into pretty low quality territory. Ranks in tier E on the PSU Tier List 3.0 which is very very low quality I'd suggest putting a little more money into the PSU (~70ish range should net something in tier B or C) but otherwise it's solid.