TheKDub

Did you at least spread it to cover all of the die? lol Jokes aside, I'd at least put some conformal coating down on the PCB to make sure none of it gets damaged by any LM if it were to leak out. You don't have to re-glue the IHS, but it'd definitely add an extra layer of protection. Just don't go overboard on the LM application. Alternatively, you could get the tube of Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, then use that both between the die and IHS, and the IHS and the cooler. Temperatures would be maybe 2-5c higher than compared to Conductonaut between the die and IHS, and Kryonaut between the IHS and cooler. Then there's not really any risk of it leaking out, less frequent re-application needed, and it's non-electrically conductive, so even if it did squish out, it'd be very unlikely to kill anything.

It's very unlikely, but there are some contacts on the top of the CPU and I'm not sure if they're used for anything, but I wouldn't want to risk it. You could put a few layers of conformal coating down on the top of the PCB first, just to make sure nothing gets to them. (obviously don't put any on the die, that way you don't harm any thermal conductivity, but you can put it over the gold contacts.) https://amzn.to/2MXWx6k (Pic is of an 8700K, couldn't find one of an 8700, but I'd assume they're about the same.)

While I've never used LM myself, it is possible it could seep out from under the IHS if you apply too much, then drip out onto other components. I'd think this would be even more of a concern if you're moving the PC around a lot. I'd imagine that if you re-glued the IHS all the way around, you'd be able to protect yourself from any leakage. I've seen a fair amount of people suggesting RTV Silicone Sealant for this. https://amzn.to/2wXMQLk I'd avoid using LM between the IHS and the cooler. Go with a good TIM instead for that. https://amzn.to/2Nu1gfK

https://superuser.com/questions/323738/what-is-minimum-and-maximum-processor-state-in-windows-7-power-management That has some explanation of what the maximum state setting will do. It should help with keeping power usage and heat down when on battery.

As far as I know, your CPU will only turbo boost if the temperature is low enough, so that might work.

This might help:

No. Why would it?

Wouldn't suggest doing this. He'd have to stick it between the PCB of the CPU and the cooler, which could damage either one of them. Gently twisting it along with sliding it or pulling it should get it off. Just be very careful not to hit the pins.

If it's a legitimate brand new i7-8086K and he's willing to sell it for $300, something fishy is definitely going on, or they have no idea what it's worth. Cheapest new ones on ebay are roughly $400, not even MicroCenter has it for less than $380.

Check this out ^ You'll just want to drop the frequency and voltage, rather than increase it.

As long as you're going to add a filter to it, go for it.

Good choice. Their chat support is 90% of the time absolutely terrible, but phone support hasn't let me down yet.

Definitely send it back to get a different one sent to you. If the shipping box was damaged, make sure to note that on the RMA request, as well as everything inside the package.

Afaik It's Anthony that does them now.

Look at the PCIe lane spacing. This motherboard could fit a triple slot card in the first 16x slot, a two slot card in the second 16x slot, and case permitting, a three slot card in the third 16x slot. Those are assuming you fill all of the 16x slots. If you're only filling one or two slots, you could use one or two triple slot cards if you really wanted to.

Hmm... Didn't realize the one I saw floating around the picture was just for the 24-pin. I'd check the manual, it should know where to put it.

I just recently upgraded from my i5 4690K and 16GB of DDR3 1600MHz (4x4GB) to an i7 8700K and 32GB of DDR4 3000MHz (2x16GB). GTX 970 was carried over from the old build to the new one. Honestly, the 4690K, especially if overclocked, can still last for a few more years just fine. The reason I upgraded was that I was constantly maxing out my 16GB of RAM, and I hated my current case / wanted something smaller, so I'd be stuck buying new RAM, a new motherboard (and it's hard to find good mATX Z97 boards for reasonable prices), and a new case. Only had to add a CPU, cooler, and PSU to that mix for the entire upgrade.

Plug it into the 8-pin connector directly next to the 24-pin. (The one closest to the warranty void if removed sticker)

Those temps are fine. You likely just had a bad overclock that caused it to shut down. My 8700K gets up to around 75c under full load with my overclock (5GHz on all 6 cores @ 1.28v) with a Corsair H100i Pro. As long as you're staying under 80c under load, you're fine.

What temps are you getting on the H7 currently? And what's your current overclocked clock speed and voltage?

Yes. I can do around 100-110 WPM by typing with the majority of my fingers, without looking at all. I'm not saying you will be able to type that fast, but moving away from only using two fingers may help you boost your typing speed.

Leave it running for that juicy 1 year uptime. (Assuming the power never goes out in that year). You'd be fine if you unplugged it.

Neither. Go with EVGA. If you're dead-set between the two, go with the ASUS.

Fair warning, Samsung uses Tizen for their smartwatches, not Wear OS (previously Android Wear). Last time I used my Gear S3 Frontier, the app support was terrible.

Your computer will blow up and burn everything you have ever loved to ashes. /s It'll be fine. Single-Link DVI supports a maximum of 1920x1200 @ 60Hz, whereas Dual-Link DVI supports up to 2560x1600 @ 60Hz.