Gameboy900

Hi, I am in the market for a new laptop around $1800. I would like to know opinions on whether to buy a high-end windows laptop with a dedicated GPU or a 2016 Macbook Pro 13-inch (Touch Bar), in my shoes. Firstly, I already have a capable gaming desktop which this will NOT be replacing. This laptop is basically an upgrade to my Chromebook which I use more than my desktop. I will mostly use it for web browsing and writing. I would like to be able to play light games like The Sims 4 at decent frame rates/graphics. I personally am leaning towards the Macbook Pro route for a few reason (also the reasons why I am willing to spend the "Apple Tax"): More portable due to thinness and lightness Build in general is, in my opinion, superior to any current windows laptop (including screen, keyboard, and trackpad) Touch Bar is fun and unique Silent when performing light tasks I recently got an iPhone, so the extra features from MacOS (universal copy paste, messages on Mac, Apple Pay, etc). Some final thoughts: The gaming laptop I would choose would be either the Razer Blade or XPS 15. The main reason I would choose these over the Macbook would be for gaming performance (please tell other pros). I would 95% be using this laptop on my lap, which I have heard is not good for gaming laptops (if anyone can confirm this that would be helpful). I am not concerned with the lack of ports on the new Macbook Pro (I don't plan on plugging much in), but I am concerned about what is being said about the poor battery life. If anyone has the new Macbook (or the Razer Blade or XPS 15), I would love to hear about your experience with it. I would prefer to keep the discussion to the laptops mentioned, but if anyone has any other laptop suggestions, please feel free to add them! Thanks!

This sounds like what I am trying to do. I have another question. The internet download speed in my apartment is capped at 20 Mbps. To my understanding, this is per device (correct me if you think I'm wrong). So would having every device under the router's MAC address then limit my download speed for every device to a single 20 Mbps? Also a side note: When you turn the WIFI off and back on, you need to sign back into the system again on each device.

Hi, I am moving into an apartment that provides free internet through Ethernet ports around the apartment. You need to bring your own router to get wifi. I have a router plugged in. When you plug a device into the ethernet port, you need to sign in through a web browser. When connecting a device to the wifi, you are also prompted to sign in through a captive portal. Are there any settings I can change on the router to avoid signing in, like keep the router signed in if that is possible? The main reason I want to do this is because I would like to use a chromecast. Thanks.

I currently have a Nexus 5x and I think it's great, but after since seeing Apple's WWDC keynote earlier this week, I have been thinking a lot about leaving Android for iOS. Here are my reasons why: 1) To my understanding, iOS on the iPhone 6s is much smoother and fluid, especially in apps like Snapchat and Camera. 2) I live in the US, so many of my friends use iMessage, and I don't want to be left out from the new enhancements showcased at WWDC. I have been waiting for Google to release a worthy iMessage competitor, but I just don't see that happening in the near future with them splitting their users up with a handful of different messengers (Hangouts, Messenger, and now Allo). 3) I like how integrated Apple's different services appear to be. Services like Photos, Apple Music, iMessage, and Siri. The biggest thing holding me back is that feel tied down to Google services like Google Photos and Play Music All Access. I plan to make a full transition to Apple's counter parts, but am afraid that the transition will not be smooth and I could become locked down to Apple. Is this a valid fear? (Another idea is too keep using the Google Services on iOS) If I move to iOS, I will miss the customization and uniqueness of Android the most. But I think that what I listed above is more important then looks. So am I going crazy? Or should I really get an iPhone? I would like to keep this discussion focused on the experience on Android or iOS and not hardware. Some Background: - Before WWDC, I would have considered myself an "Android Fanboy" - I do not currently own any Apple Products myself (but all of my family has iPhones)

I own both type covers and can say that the Type cover 4 is miles better than its predecessor.

I will be using this for gaming, watching blu-rays, and some 3D modelling. I plan on using one 1080p 60hz display, but I may upgrade to three. I would prefer to stay with air-cooling. If i don't plan on overclocking, would it make sense to downgrade the CPU and motherboard, while keeping the same PSU?

Hello, I am planning on building a small form-factor gaming PC. I will be playing at 1080p. My budget is $2000 in the US, but the cheap the better. I would like some feedback on my current part list. Thanks. PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/bmQXsJ Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/bmQXsJ/by_merchant/ CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($233.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9i 57.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($41.98 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($159.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($69.88 @ OutletPC) Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($179.99 @ SuperBiiz) Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($117.99 @ Micro Center) Power Supply: Silverstone 500W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply ($94.99 @ Amazon) Optical Drive: Silverstone SST-SOB02 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($169.99 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($83.89 @ OutletPC) Case: NCASE-M1 ($185.00) Video Card: MSI GTX 1070 AERO 8G ($450.00) Total: $1787.69 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-05 13:07 EDT-0400

From what I understand, thunderbolt would be the most useful with a small Mini-ITX build, giving options like fast external storage which cannot fit in the actual case, etc. With thunderbolt 3 announced, will we see any Mini-ITX motherboards supporting this in the future? And why haven't we seen any in the past?

I think it will come out either in July with Windows 10 or in October with Intel's new Skylake processors. Fingers crossed for July because I want one for college too.

I will be an engineering student this fall. I am currently looking for a laptop to use. I need something that is powerful enough for engineering applications, but also something that I can use to take hand-written notes in class. A Surface Pro seems perfect for me, but, as many of you may know, the new Surface Pro 4 may not be released until October, after classes already start. I would hate to buy a Surface Pro 3 in August, only for the new one come out in just a couple of months. One other option I had was buy the new cheaper Surface 3 for taking notes in class, and a more powerful laptop for engineering stuff, but this, to mean, defeats the purpose of a Surface. So, should I buy a Surface Pro 3 now and be stuck with older technology, wait for the Surface Pro 4 and be stuck without a laptop for a few months, or buy a Surface 3 and a laptop and be stuck with the extra bulk in my bag? Or any other thoughts? Thanks!

justbuck1 https://www.vessel.com/videos/G-DUjgUyY https://www.vessel.com/videos/DkWN4qqW1

I have one and I strongly recommend it. You can get it on eBay for under $400.

I recently got a ASUS PB278Q and it is great. I love it for multitasking with 2 browser Windows open side by side. Gaming is great too. I got it refurbished for under 400 US dollars with no problems.

No, the update is 2.23.502.3. I did some research and it seams HTC has pulled the update because lots of other people are having the same problems. I hope they come out with a fix soon! Here are some news and forums threads: http://www.androidcentral.com/htc-halts-android-443-update-att-htc-one-m8 http://forums.androidcentral.com/htc-one-m8/430641-huge-problems-after-4-4-3-t-update-2.html Don't Update!!!

As said above, the AT&T 4.4.3 OTA Update for the HTC One M8 that was released yesterday has caused my phone to die much quicker and my phone now often freezes up for a few seconds. The freezing is most noticeable when watching Youtube videos. My phone is also very hot (like I have been playing a graphic intensive game) all the time when I'm not even using it. None of these problems existed before the update. Any possible fixes? Thanks.

Hi, I have a problem when my computer enters standby mode. Occasionally (around 1 in every 15 times) when trying to wake my computer from standby mode with my keyboard, it doesn't work. What I mean is it will not show on my monitor. My monitor shows nothing connected to it and turning it on and off does not fix. Is this a problem with it not connecting to the monitor correctly? Or is it that my computer won't wake up? Also you should know that this has happened with multiple monitors and and different ports and cables to connect them were used. Thanks for the help.

Thanks for the responses. Most of you recommended 780 or 290 so would either of these cards be good or should I find a different one? http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=93753&vpn=R9-290X-EDFD&manufacture=XFX&promoid=1264 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130918 Also for anyone who said crossfire I would need to buy a new motherboard and case because I currently have a mini-ITX build.

Hi, I am looking to buy a new graphics card for playing games like Arma 3 on max settings at 1440p. At 1080p, I was able to play Arma 3 on mostly max settings at 1080p. I have a Intel core i5 3470 and a AMD Radeon HD 7870. I also have 8gb of ram. Arma 3 barely stays above 20fps at 1440p unless I reduce the settings and view distance. Would buying a new graphics card help performance? Or is it the CPU that is the bottleneck? Thanks.