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  2. Do the games you want to play have Xbox Series S ports? Are you okay with paying for Xbox Live if you want to play online multiplayer? Are the games you want to play on Game Pass (assuming it's an option in your region)?
  3. I'm looking at upgrading from a RTX 2060 Super as its starting to show its age a bit in some tasks
  4. Definitely need to get another case cover to clean things up after this. The improvements are looking great so far. The new RAM block with micro fins is taking ~5* off where it already was. R23 finished at 78* pulling 170-175w the entire run. Parts of Dead Space and Metro that were getting 68-70* are down at 58-64*. Really excided to see if the Iceman AMD SP5 water block makes a difference. My only concern at the moment is the GPU screws height interfering with the bigger block... If it works though, Ill be able to directly cool the VRMs and more of the VRAM.
  5. I recently sold my PC due to persistent problems and bought a MacBook Pro which I have been happily using. But the fact that i can't play games using mac is a horrible thing so instead of switching computers over and over i wanted to buy an xbox BUT i don't have any clue if it is worth using a console note: i like playing with controllers and i had many games i bought in my xbox account note 2: im not addicted to games anymore i just wanna kill time (not gonna play 24/7)
  6. Then go for the M27Q. You can find an in-depth review of the monitor here For the price, it's difficult to find anything better, especially if you live in a country where availability may be limited.
  7. Try going into the BIOS and enable XMP/DOCP to get them to run at 3200MHz. If this doesn't work and your BIOS hasn't been updated in awhile, try updating the BIOS to the latest non-Beta version and then try to enable XMP/DOCP as updating the BIOS helps improve memory stability.
  8. ^^^ didnt know h370 supported ram oc but if it does then try both xmps and see if they work or not 3200 and 3600 are pretty damn slow so you should be fine, at worst youll be stuck to the 3200 profile if 3600 wont run for whatever reason for stuff to tweak if the profile(s) dont work look at vccsa/io and vdimm (ram volt)
  9. should be able to find used rx 5700 (xt) for around that price, look on facebook marketplace or carousell not aware of any online eshops in malaysia aside from shopee but shopee doesnt officially have any categories for used parts so quite skceptical of buying used on shopee not like tokopedia here in indo where theres a filter for used parts 11th gen is a waste of money and has no upgrade path am4 is also a dead platform with no upgrade path but the boards are dirt cheap, should be able to find b450 tomahawk/aorus elite/strix -f, etc. for the equivalent of ~50$ and i have seen some on carousell when looking at the malaysia used market, also a much higher upgrade ceiling with the 5700x3d/5800x3d which are still among the best gaming cpus atleast for games thatll leverage the cache, might even be able to find used 3600(x) or 5600(x) for cheap since new am4 tends to be overpriced
  10. Bros playing games with just his imagination
  11. Whats your entire systems specs Temps and what power supply do you have?
  12. test each individual ram stick if one ram stick doesnt work in any channel then dead ram stick and you can try reviving it by cleaning the golden pads with a tissue and some isopropyl or water if both sticks work but 1 - 3 slots dont work then mobo issue and you can try fixing it by scrubbing the ram slots with a new clean toothbrush or if that doesnt work take off all heatsinks + cmos battery then discharge by shorting powerbutton and rinse with water, only needs around a day to fully dry both the rams and mobo are pretty suspicious here so gotta test both
  13. yep youll be good to go just buy that stick and enjoy your 32gb of ram
  14. id just get the silverstone unit since its a gold unit and its probably better than a 650w bronze unit there should be some sellers of used psus on fb marketplace or whatever eshops you have available in the philipines which id reccomend over a new warrantyless unit since youll get higher quality and higher wattage psus for cheap, as an example here in indo i can buy used andyson 1200w px for the equivalent of 56$ and a new psu at that price would probably be some trash 750w bronze like the aerocool integrator thatll be lower quality and straight up less futureproof due to the lower wattage as for brand matching if you arent a fanboy dont bother as its a massive waste of money for no real gain, dont buy am4 unless you are buying used as a 12600k will demolish a 5700x, should be able to find used b3/450 like the tomahawk or equivalent ~50$ or less which is the main advantage of am4 (cheap but good mobos), if you nullify that advantage am4 is just another dead platform and youd be better off with am5 (ryzen 7500f) or atleast lga 1700 with a 12600k
  15. Go into Windows and screenshot CPU-Z SPD tab. That'll list (most of) the profiles on the module. Generally speaking, the JEDEC profiles will work fine at CPU supported speeds. XMP is never guaranteed since it is an overclock. Higher speed modules may have two profiles, a faster one at the marketing speed, and a lower one in case it doesn't work. Try it, test it.
  16. The invisible icon appears for a split of a second - there is no chance to click on it or pull to the right. There was a Windows update yesterday. Today I haven't noticed the appearing icon so far...
  17. both of them aren't available where I am.
  18. Hi! I tried everything... Resetted SMC, resetted PRAM... nothing worked. I tried installing macOS 10.14, 11, 12... Nothing. Windows 11 works but it is unusable. Thanks to Win11 I saw that CPU is capped at 0.49 GHz even with bootcamp driver installed and under load. I think the logic board is dead in some ways! Really tried everything, disconnect cable from logic board assuming that one of them may be short-circuited, disconnected the battery... Don't know, really tried everything. In Europe a Logic Board from eBay costs about from 180€ to 300€... At this point it's pointless, just go for a 2020 Air with M1 if you really want an Apple laptop
  19. Today
  20. Urge ordered the wrong TPM module 

    If anyone needs the "14pin LPC for asus" from this listing and is in the UK, hit me up and I'll post it to you. No cost 

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386816864433?var=654074503857

     

  21. FlyingPotato_is_taken

    A lot of nerds here are all about the economica…

    My PC is max. PFS per dollar and at the same time also the economical effective solution. It was low power consumption or in other words do I buy the R5 5600G APU or R7 5700G and do I get 3200MHz or 3733 Mhz DDR4. So in other terms still economical effective and cool room temperatures in the summer.
  22. I have developed an issue with my Series X where it sometimes just switches off. It’s not heat-related. Background: So I live in South Africa, where we have what they call “loadshedding”, an everchanging schedule of intermittent power cuts typically lasting 2 hours to reduce the strain on our electricity supplier Eskom (which is struggling due to a cocktail of government corruption and ineptitude). Consequently, I shut down my console and switch off the power before our turn of loadshedding. When the power comes back on, I switch on the power again. All of my electronics are plugged into surge protectors (basically just an extra plug). What happened: After one loadshedding session, I switched on the plug where my Xbox is connected and the surge protector made something like a small explosion inside and tripped all the power - I had to go switch it on at the DB board. The issue: Since then my Xbox works fine for the most part, but every now and then it simply switches off. When I switch it back on, it’s like it was completely removed from any power, in that the clock reverts to the “4:22" it for whatever reason always defaults to on a cold bootup before syncing via the internet. I’ve kept a log, but there is no pattern in terms of time played. I’ve had sessions lasting 50 and 84 minutes before it switched off and I’ve had sessions of 2 hours, over 3 hours and one of 5 hours with no issue. Once it switches off, though, it tends to continue doing so every half hour or so. But if I plug it out and back in, it seems to break this cycle. Complication: We don’t have official hardware support from Microsoft in South Africa, so I can’t send it in to be looked at. Consoles are pretty expensive here (my Series X was just shy of three times what I paid for my 360 Elite in 2010, and the price has gone up since), so I would very much prefer to avoid replacing it (it’s less than 2 years old). Could it simply be that the power supply inside the console was damaged? Is it likely that the issue will be resolved if I replace the power supply? Thank you. Any advice would be much appreciated.
  23. Yeah if you see ads, it's because LTT enabled ads. I personally haven't noticed the change since I have YT Premium, but still, this isn't on Youtube/Google.
  24. I'd go for the M27Q. You could also take a look at the Dell G2724D or the LG 27GR83Q-B. I think both are better than the M27Q if they are in your price range.
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