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That open frame case at 2:20 looks similar to the XTIA Xproto, aside from a different foot cutout shape.

in that case the asus one is better

You either have CSM disabled or there is a PSU issue, is what I would think. Or maybe both.

Windows 10 or 11? It's pretty well documented that hdr in win10 is broken.

I agree with this - and if someone still wants to try and game in Linux, I support that, too - BUT!!!! - I would still dual boot like you suggest - especially, noobs. Let's face it, the majority of games are produced with Windows in mind and they're most tested with Windows in mind. There's a few websites out there that has 'rated' the game for use on Linux - some gaming developers and companies have actively 'sabotaged' their game or made it difficult to use with Linux. Or in other words, optimized it for Windows and consider Linux an afterthought - so, ppl should know that if trying to use their Linux OS for their gaming needs. I think you can use almost any Linux distro for gaming but if you use an OS with older software and software versions - e.g. Mint, you can anticipate some frustration and headaches. However, you can probably update your system so that you can run the games. For instance, you can take a Debian system and update/upgrade it so it uses newer software versions - you can take Debian stable and upgrade it to Testing or sid. However, in saying that, it's probably easier to use a rolling release distro and already have most of the software relatively up-to-date - examples: OpenSUSE Tumbleweed, Fedora (technically, not rolling release but still pretty recent), Arch - I'd try one of those before going into the more obscure and less common distros.

Is it really that worth it? Cheapest 6000mhz cl30 is 40 bucks more

Here

Hello My build is about 2 weeks old now. I had windows 10 on my old computers SATA SSD so I decided to keep it as a boot drive and use my 1TB M.2 for game storage. Anyways, ran great and had a blast on Helldivers 2 Last night I installed windows 11 and played helldivers but experienced some issues with Adrenaline app freezing in the background. This issue seems to be widely reported but didn't occur on Windows 10. Tonight while playing, my computer black screened and attempted to restart itself. While attempting, the white VGA LED came on. Needless to say, it didn't complete the boot process. It was completely unresponsive to anything other than holding the power button down to shut it off. After powering back on, it boots to Windows without issue. This happened 3 more times. Each time I tried something different to remedy it. First, I removed the overclock/undervolt tuning I had on Adrenaline. Second, I performed a clean install of the Adrenaline software. Lastly I flashed the BIOS to the most recent version. All resulting in this black screen issue. Each restart seemed to happen quicker than the last. I've been monitoring my Temps on my second monitor. My cpu was 70C and my GPU was at 75C give or take. Well within acceptable ranges while under load. All windows updates are done. Drivers are up to date. BIOS is flashed with no CPU overclock but SMART is enabled Any idea what's causing this? Any definitive ways to diagnose? Faulty PSU, GPU or RAM? I still have time to return parts. Thanks for your help in advance. -toasty EVGA 700 GD 80+ Gold XFX Speedster SWFT 319 Radeon RX 6800 16GB MSI B550-A PRO Crucial PRO 32GB DDR4 3200 CL22 Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case Samsung SATA EVO SSD Crucial P3 Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive AMD Ryzen 7 5700X 3.4 GHz 8-Core Deepcool AK400 66.47 CFM CPU Cooler

Aight thanks a lot man, cheers!

You want DDR5-6000 CL30 for these AM5 builds.

Bought 2 voltage regulators for 80€ each, not realizing that there are literally no affordable power supplies that can take full advantage of them. Now they each run a 400W 60V power supply, while they could take up to a 750W 60V PSU each, I could've saved a lot of money if I went with lower power regulators. The manual also failed to mention that you MUST use a switch mode PSU, because a mains transformer based PSU will destroy the regulator (I got new regulators under warranty, but had to buy the 60V 400W PSUs I mentioned before to use them).

Which game? Also looks like you did manual CPU OC and therefore reduced max CPU boost clock by around 400MHz.

Check gpu clock speed. Cpu speed is fine cause it's locked. Also check less commonly talked about temps like vrm temps, vram temps, etc. with hwinfo. Make sure your system is free of bloatware.

Thanks for the feedback. I came to the same conclusion. My worry is now accurately measuring that width LOL

I have done it this way and devices would lose connection. Is there maybe a interference between the IPs?

Try changing sample rate/bit depth, usually id recommend 48KHz and the highest bit depth available but bluetooth can't transmit that in uncompressed PCM so im not sure what options it'll show.

Oh one thing, if you do the DDU thing. remove all monitors from the GPU apart from main display, until drivers is installed

I've recently been doing a fair amount of upgrading to my build yet I feel like it's still not giving me the full potential if that makes sense? I'm playing most games on the same settings as before the upgrades with only a 10-20fps difference? Build before: R7 2700x 4.1ghz 32gb corsair 3600mhz 2060 oc Asus x470 pro Main storage was solid Upgraded build: R9 5950x 4.55ghz (can't seem to get it any higher stably) 64gb corsair 3600mhz 4060 oc Asus x470 pro still All storage on ssd, boot on separate m.2, games on 2x2tb ssd and vr games on 2tb m.2 I've been messing with settings galore but nothing seems to help. Everything on windows side is set to performance and all that, same with nvidia control centre. Everything has all its newest drivers. The cpu is on a 360 aio rad aswell and both it and the gpu never go above 50c. Any help would be appreciated!!

If it crashes your display driver then all monitors will go black.

I have dual monitor set up. One is a 4k capable Display port cable, the other is a HDMI 2.1. Both monitors went black. I think if anything maybe my DP cable would be the faulty one (sometimes when i adjust my monitor or move the cable by accident it will cut out signal for a second)

Alright, ram might have gone bad though, it happens, but try the DDU and fast boot thing and see if it helps

hi, ive not rlly been folowing tech for the last few years. my family would like a new tv. im not rlly sure where to look and whats good. size 65 inch budget ~£2000 must have soundbar im in the uk https://www.richersounds.com/tv-projectors/tvs-accessories/tvs/all-tvs.html?tv_screen_size_breaks=820&p=5

Budget (including currency): 1800 Country: Australlia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: RDR2, Last of Us Part 1, Alan Wake 2, Doom Eternal Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/xXtDsh

If you plug in the old GPU, does it work? Also did you clear CMOS before installing the new card? A side note, if you removed all cables and ram, make sure ram is seated in slot A2 and B2 and check cables as @Average Nerd said.