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same and that was on 775 that usually doesnt require that much force after a bunch of inserting and reseating cpus ive gotten pretty used to it though and the only thing that has a feeling of needing a bunch of force is 1366 which it definitely does compared to the other sockets i have (775 115x fm1/2 am3+) and you can definitely feel it when you pull the lever to release the cpu

You can use se.pcpartpicker.com for local pricing and availability. Then post the permalink or a BB formatted build. This provides more details on parts like memory speed and timings. The Pure Rock 2 CPU cooler is suboptimal for the CPU. I would suggest a PSU that conforms to the new ATX 3.0 standard. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i5-14600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor (kr3954.00 @ Amazon Sweden) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler (kr489.00 @ Webhallen) Motherboard: MSI B760 GAMING PLUS WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard (kr1924.00 @ Amazon Sweden) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory (kr1523.00 @ Proshop) Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (kr1899.00 @ Amazon Sweden) Video Card: MSI VENTUS 2X BLACK OC GeForce RTX 4060 Ti 8 GB Video Card (kr4979.93 @ Amazon Sweden) Case: Fractal Design North ATX Mid Tower Case (kr1790.00 @ Komplett) Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS GX-750 ATX 3.0 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (kr1333.00 @ Computersalg) Total: kr17891.93 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-25 14:48 CEST+0200

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Thanks all for your initial suggestions, for some more details the power supply is a corsair RM850X (2018 model, white), I have 64GB of ram installed and using the ASUS ROG Crosshair VII Hero X470 motherboard. So AM4 socket, which would be nice to keep since I have a full custom watercooling setup, including a monoblock for that motherboard currently. If I went 5800X3D route I could keep the motherboard and most of the watercooling in place, which would be nice and allow me to save some money for the GPU.

If you already got 3 NF-A12x25, then why not just get 3 more as intake? Or take one of the exhaust fans and put in front with 2 additional for positive airflow.

It's probably using some dogshit encryption, looks like you might be able to get 4 fly leads soldered to the remaining bits of board contact to connect a USB port or cable directly to the board and get the data off. Looks like it's a USB 2.0 drive even, less wires to solder!

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/msi-g321cu-32-led-curved-4k-uhd-144hz-1ms-freesync-with-hdr-gaming-monitordisplayporttype-c-hdmi-black/6544809.p?skuId=6544809&utm_source=feed&ref=212&loc=18419691557&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_qexBhCoARIsAFgBletyz4iTwxiuYntksg2APLaqTkq5-lG-gmdGJOgIZUcgOPB7_j5qzlAaAly5EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Keeps the curved monitor, just ~$30 more but its 4k at 144hz

I'd only go for X670 if I really needed I/O that's only on them. I wanted USB4 but oh wow is it lacking on boards and not all of them even offer it but cost a ton.

kinda ironic when you got an overpriced 7 year warranty psu instead of a 10 year one but i have some alternative ssd options kc3000 with a 5 year warranty should also be abit faster than the verbatim albiet 30$ extra nm620 5 year warranty 20$ cheaper and should still outperform the p3 in random r/w (which is what youll probs be doing most like windows doing stuff in the background) cause its a dram ssd, should also last longer since its a dram tlc drive and not a dramless qlc drive though we are talking in a timescale of >10 years gen 4 ssds are already useless for the average user as games isimply wont take advantage of that speed and the only reasons youd see me reccomending those when not neccesary is either value (dram gen 4 is not much more than a dram gen3) or budget allows for it, so dont expect to ever need gen5 when most ppl dont even need gen4 atm b650m pg riptide a step above the lightning with a not garbage vrm, still abit worse than the gaming plus i/o wise (less usb3 ports on the rear) but that shouldnt matter too much as you still have 7 of em (3 rear 4 internal) aesthetics preferences are fine as long as you have the budget and you arent gimping your specs for the sake of aesthetics

From what I saw that's as high as it was going, but others have said setting it to 4.55 might have been limiting it so I've taken that off now and about to start doing tests. At the time the 4060 was in my price range and it was on sale, the 4070s were all an extra 3-400. I might get something better in the near future if prices keep dropping like they seem to be.

Toshitba was awful with this, soldering those fragile USB connectors straight to the HDD board. Sometimes you can replace the controller board on the HDD with one with a SATA port.

$40 for a better cooler, much better RAM and better PSU with 100W extra headroom, not a bad deal imo

Limits and curve optimizer is the only thing you need to set. You can try with limits set to disable, if that doesn't work, test with motherboard. On my board, I exceed the predefined limits when disabling it:

Then there something is wrong with your system, chances are journal probably says what. Rather than ignoring the problem, fix it. My question is why delete them, The log stores the transaction history which leaves a easy way to view what recently changed and If a package breaks the cache is a convenient way to rollback. No, It only deletes files from the package that are unmodified. It may also have additional data stored across the system possibly in "/etc", "/var/lib", and possibly somewhere in your home directory. While we have standards for the home directory, no one really follows it so it can be anywhere. "pacman -Rns $(pacman -Qdtq)", just create an alias in your shell config. Also running "pacman -Rns" or the above command doesn't account for whether it's used or not. If it's not an explicit dependency or explicitly marked as installed its removed. "/home/$USER/.cache/yay", you can just run "yay -Scc".

Less so that the patriots are super reliable, just that the NV2 is...less so, I'll say Arctic freezer 3, best in class and a great price to boot and includes active VRM cooling

Bigwig: "Hey Avocado, I got this external hard drive. Someone brushed past it and dropped it off a table while it was plugged in. Think you can fix it? It's got some data on it that I need." Me: "Maybe, depending on the drive I may have an adapter, if the drive itself has the typical SATA interface." Samsung: "Hold my beer" Yep, that's a broken off USB port that's soldered directly to the PCB of the harddrive. And this is why I keep telling people to ask me first before they go out and buy this stuff, because I would've told them to just buy an internal drive and stick it in an enclosure. But no, bigwigs need to just go out and buy whatever. And of course, the data on it is nowhere on the corporate network, because people still insist on bringing their shit on physical media and never back up anything. So yeah, time to buy a replacement PCB and pray to any deity willing to listen that there are no other security or lockout measures that prevent simple swapping.

I've got it paired with an MSI Meg 32 inch 4k 160hz fast ips monitor I picked up too. The watercooling is hiding in the stand.

Let's back up... why do you want it to not check?

Thanks I looked at a few more performance tests and I think I agree with you, it seems like everyone using an air cooler is limiting the wattage using Intel XTU Thanks for this recommendation, I didn't know Patriot was considered more reliable. I'm confused, I don't know where you saw that? Are you saying that the RAM in my parts list is low profile? I think what I will do is stick with the 13900 and just get an AIO 360 or 420 mm. If anyone has recommendations then feel free to let me know!

Budget (including currency): $3000 Country: US Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Pretty much any cpu or gpu intensive game. Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): System is solely for game testing and benchmarking. News: I've decided to open a shop! It's going great but I want to have a system for benchmarking. All that's important is no bottlenecks that are power related. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/kT9sQP I already have those hard drives laying around. Got lucky, I found that 10000rpm. I had bought it a while back but haven't even touched it .

<-- Currently running a 13900k and a NH-D15 with almost that same exact RAM (just a faster speed). That's low profile RAM, why was RAM clearance an issue?

Ok, thanks anyways it seems I will have to reinstall windows and/or exchange the Mainboard

I noticed this issue when I was getting huge difference in FPS with the same game(Witcher3) and settings. It could run at 140+ FPS, but some time, it is just running at 60+. I started testing and found out that, by just doing reboot and start the game at the same scene, it could either run at 140 or 60 FPS. After further investigation with HWInfo, I have captured some of the key metrics: When it run at 60FPS: total gpu power [% of TDP] == ~75% performance limit - reliability voltage == yes performance limit - power == no gpu power == ~275 When it run at 140FPS: total gpu power [% of TDP] == ~90% performance limit - reliability voltage == no performance limit - power == yes gpu power == ~340 Any idea what might be the issue here? system spec: CPU: Intel I7 10700 mobo: Z490 Aorus Elite RAM: gskill sniper x ddr4-3200 8GB x2 PSU: CM v750 gold v2 M.2 SSD: intel SSD7 2TB GPU: GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 3080 GAMING OC 10G