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I would like to see a review of different touch screen monitors available in the market.

I'm not sure that heatsink is going to adequately cool the power stages on that card. Every spot on the passive heatsink that has a thermal pad on it needs additional cooling. Do you have the budget to replace the card with something else? I know Tesla M40s are cheap, but they're cheap for a reason. A 12 GB 3060 would run circles around it.

Yes, the highest one

ty. btw that 95c where throttle starts is the same "cpu" temp i was talking about?

Most likely that's for Logoand/or flair illumination

Rather check where the cable does originate from, may be a fan header or some useless gadget...

????????

Considering it's just two wires, probably goes to some led on the plastic making a logo glow, or something like that.

Nothing out of the ordinary imo, it can safely reach 1.42V or so But maybe you could try some undervolting (Curve optimizer, all cores -15 to -20, have to test what's stable), this will decrease voltage power consumption and temps

I am currently in the process of replacing an Nvidia Tesla M40's passive heatsink with a dual fan MSI 1080Ti one; the purpose of this mod is to keep the temperature of the GPU at a reasonable level without making my workstation the loudest appliance in the neighborhood. The heatsink came with these 3 connectors, two of which I'm assuming are mini-4 pin molex GPU fan ones, which I'm gonna extend to my fan hub via an adapter. My question is, what does this two-pin connector (circled in red) actually do? Do I need to have it plugged in for the fans to work properly? I also found out that the GPU, despite not having any fan connectors on the board, actually does have a two pin socket that fits that connector perfectly (circled in green), although it's positioned in such a way that the cable won't be able to reach it once installed. In case I do need it, can it be plugged in there via an extension of sorts or is that one a different thing? Thanks in advance for any help or replies!

I need your thoughts here. Gelid Solutions sent me a message via NewEgg on Monday, offering special discounts and a discount code or what the discounts were, or even WHICH products. This is what happened. When I clicked the links and selected a product as a test, the code was invalid. I tried ALL of their products with the same result. I wrote back and told them this. They wrote back with a list of the products (their 120 & 360 AIOs, as well as some of their pastes and pads), links and the individual discounts for each - no more code. When I looked, however, the stated discounts were not reflected in the products. I felt this was kinda suspicious but since it was legitimately their NE shop, I wrote back and told them the product discounts didn't match the stated ones in the email. I pointed this out to them: https://gelidsolutions.com/product/gelid-liquid-360/ Finally, this morning, I got a response to this, and it's a bit incongruous: They included a link to ONLY their 360 AIO. The price on their website is $120, but is sold out. Given this price, 30% off would be $84. On NewEgg it is $98 (not that I'm surprised because NewEgg doesn't try too hard to compete with the highly unethical monster, Amazon). As I told them, why should I spend this much on a substandard AIO? They don't even list the waterflow or the head. Pump Specifications: ARGB Connector: 3 Pin ARGB Voltage (V): 5 Block Material: Copper Pump Connector: 3 Pin Pump Dimension (mm): 75 x 75 x 56 Pump RPM: 2600 Radiator Dimension (mm): 120 x 393 x 27 Radiator Material: Aluminium TDP (W): max. 300 Tube: FEP sleeve Warranty (years): 5 Water Pump Voltage (V): 12 Weight (g): 1500 (with mounting kits and fans) Fan Specifications: Air Flow (CFM): max. 61.9 ARGB Connector: 3 Pin ARGB Voltage (V): 5 Bearing: Hydro Dynamic Current (A): 0.2 DC Voltage (V): 12 Fan Connector: 4 Pin PWM Fan Dimensions (mm): 120 x 120 x 25 Fan Speed (RPM): 750 - 1800 Life Time MTTF at 40°C (hr): 50000 Noise Level (dBA): max. 34 Static Pressure (mmAq): 1.67 Included: GC-4 - The State of Art Thermal Compound Does anyone have any comments or suggestions - on the products, the repeated discount flubs, as well as this AIO that seems to be lame?

Understandable, there are a lot of more lightweight options out there in terms of laptops with a dedicated gpu. But for a lightweight variant you will most likely be looking above 1500 usd as those laptops are typically marketed more towards the bussines oriented customer or the really high end gaming laptops like the top models of the Lenovo legion slim series.

Hi, first post here, but my google skills aren't capable of figuring this out. I have this Dell Optiplex 9020 with a gt 1030 graphics card. The gpu is really bottlenecking the pc's performance. So what i want is to upgrade to a GTX 1650 which should be compatible with my motherboard (According to google ) But my current case isn't wide enough to fit the "new" graphics card. I have a OXCR8D motherboard which is a SFF mbo. But as far as i can read, then there are different types of SFF boards/sizes. Can you help me figure out how to select a new case that fits both my current motherboard and my graphics card upgrade? /Kenneth

tyvm , btw my vcore reaching 1.322 even at default bios settings with expo on, is it normal?

Its' a 14900K, duh https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2024/04/intel-is-investigating-game-crashes-on-top-end-core-i9-desktop-cpus/

While replacing a few capacitors is not complicated, knowing they were actually the cause of the problem and not a symptom of a greater problem elsewhere IS complicated.

Because on Ryzen the "CPU temp" (TCtl/TDie) is a calculated guess (using a formula) of the hotspot on the CPU, so it's higher than the max core temp But usually there's only up to 7-8C difference at low temps and really not much (1-2C) at high 80C+ temps Now ambient 34C is really high and may mess up things Anyway even 83C isn't an issue, Ryzen 7000s throttle starting at 95C !

Running 4K on a 4060 is, well, optimistic to say the least... It's not even a good 1440p card due to 8GB VRAM

Problem: On powerup, Motherboard LEDs first say there is a memory issue (I've tried removing and adding back the trident ram sticks, including 1 at a time). Then the LED saying there is a memory issue vanishes and the one saying there is a graphics card issue turns on, though usually this happens as it loses power, it happened once when i just let it run for a bit. Build: AMD Ryzen 9 7900X - 12-Core 4.7 GHz - Socket AM5 GIGABYTE X670 GAMING X AX V2 AM5 LGA 1718 AMD X670 ATX Motherboard G.SKILL Trident Z5 RGB Series 64GB (2 sticks) GIGABYTE WINDFORCE GeForce RTX 4070 12GB SAMSUNG SSD 990 PRO 2TB, PCIe 4.0 M.2 2280 ASUS ROG RYUO III 360 ARGB Fractal Design Pop XL Air RGB Black TG ATX High-Airflow Clear Tempered Glass Window Full Tower Computer Case MSI - MEG Ai1300P PCIE 5.0, 80 PLATINUM Full Modular Gaming PSU Things that might matter, or not: - I have not plugged in any rgbs, except those literally a part of other things. - I daisy chained 3 fans and 2 fans, and plugged them into sys fan 1 and 2. - When I turn on the PSU, but NOT the power, the cooler rgb turns on. Nothing else does until I hit the power, but the cooler rbg does. It has 2 wires, 1 plugged into cpu fan, and the other into the usb 2 of the board. I have no idea if this is supposed to happen or not. - my cpu power switches have different clips on the motherboard connection side. I thought maybe I installed one backwards (is that even possible? also I could have sworn I checked) But I can't remove them to confirm. There is no room to get my finger around either one. I have no leverage, even using a flathead (carefully and not touching the board). Help? How do I get this off? There are 2 btw, both plugged in, and both connected to the power supply, though I can't get either one off. - I have removed monitor, keyboard, and other accessories, but it did not fix anything - I do not understand how to check bios versions, if you think this might be the issue, how do I check this? some youtuber said it could be an issue. - The power button does not seem to turn it off. I have to kill it at the psu to turn it off. - Also is there a way to get debug codes? the manual didn't say anything other than the LEDs. This is my first time posting and building a PC, I didn't know anything about any of this a few days ago, so please let me know if I've missed anything or need to add something to comply with forum rules I did read the readme though. Thanks for any help, I'm pulling my hair out!

Ryzen 5000s are hotter or at least jump temps more aggressively than 3000s (had a 3900X previously) Yet 85C in gaming on a 5600X is out of whack, you have a pretty good cooler, is it installed properly ? Or maybe your fan curve is too low My 5900X don't even reach 80C in gaming on a 280mm AIO, usually games around 70C (with -15 to -30 CO undervolt), so you should be in the 65C range (less wattage, lower clocks)

Please make a buyer's guide for getting a UPS! The top search results for a buyer guide come from UPS vendors.