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That's a nice way of seeing it, but for most Joes it looks like a messy jungle

I would personally love it, gamified travels, eh Luke?

Well looking at it from a perspective of the EU and it's countries Romania alongside Bulgaria are the worst countries in the Union. The person who wrote that is going to the extremes.

There's really not much we can do on our end.... Since it works without the cable that's the first thing to troubleshoot. You're sure you can't visit a friend to test the cable in his/hers pc? You don't want to buy a new cable without actually knowing if it is the cable that's bad. If a new cable gives the same halabalula then it would be a waste of money. Perhaps you'll just have to do the effort to rebuild without the riser cable then...

Your list is 1700EUR once Nethelandized I'd change some stuff to get an 8 cores CPU PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7700X 4.5 GHz 8-Core Processor (€337.00 @ Amazon Netherlands) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler (€38.90 @ Amazon Netherlands) Motherboard: MSI B650 GAMING PLUS WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard (€175.05 @ Amazon Netherlands) Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory (€134.90 @ Amazon Netherlands) Storage: Western Digital Black SN850X 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (€159.00 @ Amazon Netherlands) Video Card: Gigabyte WINDFORCE OC GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER 12 GB Video Card (€672.00 @ Amazon Netherlands) Case: Deepcool CC560 V2 ATX Mid Tower Case (€60.85 @ Megekko) Power Supply: be quiet! Pure Power 12 M 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (€141.66 @ Amazon Netherlands) Total: €1719.36 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-19 13:18 CEST+0200

Because those Microsoft keys are pre-installed, since secure boot if effectively a Microsoft feature? If an OS could simply enroll new keys during installation, it wouldn't really protect against anything.

Picture? These are normally just a 2 pin plug that lets go with a very light pull on the cable. So this sounds kinda wrong? Did you test the system OUTSIDE of the case just on the motherboard box? If not go back some steps and do a test outside of the case.

Technically he did not reward anyone (well he would have done a better job not giving the person 24 hours of early access to the video). Honestly if I was desperate enough I would have taken a flight and found it afterwards if that was the case.

I would like to know if this: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/B550M-PRO-VDH-WIFI/Specification motherboard is compatible with this RAM:https://www.corsair.com/eu/en/p/memory/cmk16gx4m2b3200c16/vengeancea-lpx-16gb-2-x-8gb-ddr4-dram-3200mhz-c16-memory-kit-black-cmk16gx4m2b3200c16

PCPartPicker Part List: https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/9LxTgB CPU: Intel Core i5-14600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor ($445.00 @ MSY Technology) CPU Cooler: Deepcool LE500 85.85 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($89.00 @ MSY Technology) Motherboard: Gigabyte B760M GAMING X AX Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($265.00 @ Amazon Australia) Memory: Kingston FURY Beast RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory ($189.00 @ Centre Com) Storage: Kingston NV2 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($89.00 @ Mwave Australia) Video Card: Inno3D Twin X2 GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER 12 GB Video Card ($979.00 @ Amazon Australia) Case: Cooler Master CMP 320 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($79.00 @ JW Computers) Power Supply: FSP Group Hydro G PRO ATX3.0(PCIe5.0) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($167.77 @ JW Computers) Total: $2302.77 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-19 21:13 AEST+1000 I found a set of ram that's cl36 6000 that's in my price range that supports xpm. Also for the case I found a bigger option

I was thinking that, and a Gigabit switch later on as 3 is kinda all i need and it was on the compatibility page, but i cant find the prebuilt image for it and really dont wanna risk making a bad firmware. I want someone to take the blow of my software incompetence. The others ive found that could work are these: Green Light (Pretty much on the money on what i need, and the only sketchy part is the OpenWRT installation): TP Link Archer AX23 | Rp. 830.000 Linksys E5600 | Rp. 590.000 D Link DIR-878 | Rp. 200.000 D Link DIR-842 | Rp. 400.000 Yellow Light (Also on the money with some caveats): Linksys EA8100 | Rp. 1.030.000: It has all the feature sets, but reading up on post purchase review suggests that people have issues with ISP compatibility and Linksys application on pairing it. Xiaomi AX3600 | Rp. 1.150.000 (not gonna put the listing because i really dont wanna get sniped on it): Its... Used. Pretty much gonna put me in the same predicament as the Archer C7 but for more money. Although if it end up being a fully working model, it would be insanely overkill for anything i do with a router ever, and it would be pretty much a router i run until i die or budget Wifi 9 routers come out. Red Light (8/64, but ubiquitous and WRTable, and fit the rest that i need): TP Link Archer C50 | Rp. 650.000 TP Link Archer C20 | Rp. 350.000 TP Link Archer C60 | Rp. 475.000

Your optiplex uses a NON STANDARD board that DOES NOT follow atx board rules so it can only fit in it's own case. It also uses a proprietary psu and other cabling so removing it from its case will impact functionality. Your sff 9020 CAN fit a 1650 but it has to be a LOW PROFILE unit. This is a half height gpu like your gt1030. If you do want to caseswap you will need a new cooler, psu + adpaters to make it work and case at the minimum that you'll have to drill in to to modify it. This is gonna cost just as much if not more than a tower version of this old system. What are rhe specs of this one? Depending on that its simply more cost effective to replace instead of modify.

Not saying what you're saying here is incorrect, I'm just adding to it; Sure, I have seen bugs with HDR here and there (obviously). In my experience, when colors and/or contrast is blown out, that is because whatever game or video you're playing is rendering in HDR mode but your monitor somehow bugged out and are actually displaying in SDR mode. Displaying video or games in active HDR mode on a display in SDR mode with exactly do that, blow everything out like crazy, because so much of the spectrum is missing for displaying the HDR correctly (because the monitor actually is running in SDR). To fix this, simply disable and enable HDR again in Windows.

Not bad at all, mayyybe the GPU is a bit on the weak side but going for something really better is hard on the budget Had to switch to Australia as NZ partpicker has a total shortage of GPU , equivalent price should be 10% higher in Kiwi dollars PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor ($193.77 @ JW Computers) Motherboard: MSI B550M PRO-VDH WIFI Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($168.00 @ Centre Com) Memory: Kingston FURY Beast 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($59.00 @ Centre Com) Storage: Kingston NV2 500 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($59.00 @ Scorptec) Video Card: Sapphire PULSE Radeon RX 7700 XT 12 GB Video Card ($599.00 @ Centre Com) Case: Deepcool CC360 ARGB MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($83.70 @ JW Computers) Power Supply: MSI MAG A650BN 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($78.00 @ Centre Com) Total: $1240.47 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-19 21:05 AEST+1000

I have used HDR a lot in Windows 11, and on 5 different monitors and with 2 different PCs - all worked perfectly as intended. Never had to restart or do any weird shenanigans to make HDR work. I have used HDR on: Samsung Odyssey CRG9 Samsung Odyssey G9 Samsung Odyssey Neo G7 Samsung Odyssey Neo G9 G95NC LG CX (OLED TV) How I use HDR: First I turn on HDR in Windows settings (to put the monitor into HDR mode). Then I download the HDR Calibration tool from Microsoft Store and use it to create a profile for all my monitors. Then, with HDR enabled in Windows, I simply start whatever game I wanna play. Then the first time I boot my game in HDR, I usually just have to go into the games settings and enable HDR. And there we go, simple as that, works everytime. If doing the same does not work, I would suspect the monitor you're using to have an old buggy / unstable firmware. I know Samsung loves pumping out fixes for their monitors long time after release. I see you have a G5 as well; try firmware update it.

idk, I use ubuntu extensively for development, and tried to install some other distros, but god damn does Linux not like secure boot, TPM and other similar features. I hate having to enrol random keys for secure boot, why doesn't Linux do it itself, why can Windows but Lindon't? Linux is definitely nice, and so far much more stable (the OS, doesn't always apply for some of the software I use) for me, but I'd find it hard to use it personally for gaming or using random somewhat obscure software or even more popular stuff, but it makes the perfect development environment.

got it. ty will let you know if worked

Budget (including currency): Not tied to a real budget but trying to stay around the 1600 euro mark Country: Netherlands Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: programming, running AI models, and gaming ofcourse Other details https://pcpartpicker.com/list/xv6gcH This is a partslist i put together, now I know a fair bit about pc's but I just want to be 110% sure this PC will be the most optimal for the price. So if anyone has some advice I would gladly hear it.

I've tested the google play games beta software and games, and they work much worse than bluestacks and the windows store mobile games. What are ya'll experience with this software in it's current beta form? https://play.google.com/googleplaygames

There's an ecosystem? Thought it was just black magic, faery dust and lots of ducktape that make different divces communicate? Like windows! Keep in mind we do know the ingredients and formulas for those practicea tho! So thats a bonus

Disney treasure planet, very underrated movie:

Shush. Debian and Arch supreme. Period.

Ambient 40C yikes ! How can you even survive that ?

Whats the temps when under load? after that and depending on temps; is it torqued down enough? What other airflow, case fans, case setup etc do you have?

In work right now and wont be free til tomorrow night but can do then, though for a quick explanation about the RAM, boot into BIOS and there should just be an option somewhere along the lines of RAM overclocking/EXPO/XMP/D.O.C.P and just enable that, im not too familiar with gigabytes UEFI