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I think this is just an age of the card and no driver support thing, but I just want confirmation. On DX11 there's this weird lighting issues that are super distracting. Performance API doesn't have the issues, I just think that looks super ugly though. Graphics: AMD Radeon R9 380X !!!SEIZURE WARNING!!! 2024-04-23 12-17-50 - Trim.mp4

I'm looking for a new mechanical keyboard, and am somewhat lost with the amount of options available these days. I've had a WASD, and am currently using a DAS Pro. I rarely use the number pad, so am looking for an 80% TKL ISO-UK with blank switches (yes, I'm one of those weird ones that prefers to have nothing printed on their keycaps). Not 100% certain of the switches, but I can figure that out as long as the keyboard has swappable switches. So the key here is the formfactor and blank keycaps, with a quality frame. Can anyone make any brand/model suggestions? I looked at Keychron Q3, but couldn't find any blank key options. Maybe this is where I get educated on third-party keycaps and their compatibility.

I actually have two, so if you can't get one I'm honestly happy to sell it to you if you're located in the US currently for well below MSRP, dm me if you want it

I/O has come to matter the most for me since I do run a lot of systems without dGPUs and require triple outputs. Same goes for etherent and USB capabilities. That's where I think the X670e Creator/Pro Art is the best with its I/O, including the 60W type-c header.

Essentially what I have except I'm not touching that SSD lol, just a little concerned about the 4070 Ti, now a $660 card with 12GB of VRAM...

I have to ask only because I've taken this for granted before and been burned, how are you verifying the idle state? You aren't doing anything or have you actually verified absolutely nothing is running and (at the very least) Task Manager is reporting 1-3% usage?

I thought I had changed the parts list but it hadn’t updated apparently, anyway it should be fixed here: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/14paavang/saved/DXRCrH Explain how I can separate my plex drives from my main storage drives while keeping all on the same computer running truenas. also scheduled scrubs are tight

Sounds quite a lot like transflective LCD displays, used on many pocket PCs in the mid '00s - typical backlight supplemented with a reflective layer behind the screen rather than a white plastic layer, so the screen would still be visible under bright direct light instead of sunlight washing out the backlight. They work great for small devices.

Wdym? The AVR in most arduinos is also widely used in the automotive industry. If you're talking about the code itself, I doubt OP is going to code anything AUTOSAR-grade no matter the platform lol

Your AIO seems dead, and the stock cooler seems badly installed...

win+r, type "diskpart" and hit enter. Allow administrator access. Your flash drive probably shows up under Disks as 0 bytes, but not Volumes, correct? Unfortunately there is nothing you can do - it seems as though the controller is alive, but the flash chip is dead. If you're lucky, the hardware failure could be as "simple" as a broken trace or bad solder which you could fix if you know how to do SMD rework. But likely, the flash chip is completely cooked and it needs professional data recovery.

Unless you need the bleeding edge, you start to stretch the definitions of old and 'ancient history'. For a regular Joe who uses the basics - a 10yo pc will doubtfully hinder his life. Afaik, a 10yo MacBook Air can still handle bare minimum, with macOS still getting the crucial security updates once in a while. A 10yo iPhone 6S also gets the security updates afaik and is usable. But OMG, these devices can't play AV1 without chugging the battery like crazy and can not handle 4k encoding/decoding... ... of tech is mainly the reason why 10, 5 or even less years can become the performance cutoff.

Further testing has shown that just testing p-cores one at a time with two hyper-threads, and testing all p-cores together is not enough to confirm stability. It looks like you need to test in groups of four as well, so for example: MAKEOPTS="-j9" taskset -c 0-7 emerge -1 gcc MAKEOPTS="-j9" taskset -c 8-15 emerge -1 gcc To test the first four p-cores and the last four p-cores in a group of four. If a full multi-core load draws say ~400W when there are no power limits, 4 p-cores would draw around 200W of power flat-out, which is under the 253W limit, so the power limits won't stop 4 p-cores overheating if they are each running two hyper-threads.

Hi guys. My Patriot Supersonic Rage Pen drive who lasted many years suddenly died, but sadly I had many important private files on it and did not made backup. Any way to somehow save the data via some software? Drive is recognized in device manager but not is disk managment and not in my computer

Are you using thermal paste?

It's a different bundle, it's a sort of rare x13 variant with a 3050 instead of a 3050 ti, and with the 6850m XT xgm.

I know that putting in a CPU that already has PCIe 4.0 is the "Preferred" thing to do. This was just a question and NOT a Real World Scenario. I know EXACTLY what I am doing. I posted this for people who might not know the differences between the two.

i will definitely do that thanks so much for the advice

Gonna be real if you think this is "The worst" customer support I dread to think what it will be like when you experience actual god-awful support. Try mailing a product back to a company 5 times to get "fixed" and getting it back with the same problem every single time leaving you unable to use the product for months and at the time it was the most expensive thing you ever bought. Not to mention only getting them to finally replace the product as they should when you called out the CEO on twitter.

ohhh i didn't see that either

From what I can see, not much. Probably something in the neighbourhood of 150-200MB. Edit: I was right, 185MB are hardware reserved, I didn't see that at first.

atleast youve got that but even then still kinda not worth it aside from just buying an i5/i7 and putting a better gpu psu upgrade if you need it for a better gpu is fine since those can be carried forward as long as you arent an idiot and buy a new <750w trash unit (~50$) instead of a used 750/850w rm(x) or equivalent around the 50$ mark thatll handle new 80 and probably 90 class cards with ease (ex 3080) budget? country? you can usually get an old polaris 70 or 80 card at ~30-40$ for a 4gb variant and ~50$ for an 8gb variant and these cards have similar performance to a gtx 1060 which will be alot better than a gt730 though that thing might still fetch 10$ if someones looking for a cheap display adapter, power draw can be reduced to ~100w with an undervolt to .86v core clock ~1100 atleast thats what i saw with an rx 580 2048sp 8gb (basically an rx 570)