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Getting the games themselves for free is piracy

Thanks, I'll try all of that

my monitor is connectet with Dvi and the DP is plugged into my GPU

He still mentioned the n3 i have a hookup who gets be 20-30% off on everything so I don’t really care I am hooking it up to my Ethernet switch ddr5 was chosen for its limited ecc capabilities The specific motherboard was currently chosen for the amount of data ports, however I will compare prices to a cheaper one with a PCIe card

Unplug the monitor from the power for 2 minutes. While powered off unplug the DP cable from the monitor. Power up the monitor, plug the DP cable back into the monitor. This is assuming you are now using a traditional DP cable and not a HDMI-Display Port or DVI to Display Port cable.

Hay best minds in the tech space looking for a free way to run gba games and maybe 64 games on Android

Sapphire generally holds a good reputation. I've wanted one ofor years, but the timing of their releases have always somehow been bad for me. Here is the review of the Pulse GRE https://www.techpowerup.com/review/sapphire-radeon-rx-7900-gre-pulse/ Proshop has is for a decent price currently. Remember that all these US prices are without sales tax. I've found that if you remove that, and take some import expences into account, the Danish prices are not so much off compared to US prices. I assume its the same in Sweden. It was really bad during the GPU shortage - at some point I calculated that the US price vs DK price was around 1:10, eventhough the exchangerate is around 6-7 DKK pr USDollar. Then again, the 25% salestax on the Danish sales tag vs US pricing without tax does play a big part.

Most likely will not open it though

As I'd mentioned, here's a couple of pics of my purchases: The Gigaworks T40 Series II speakers, excuse the mess as I was simply testing it on my coffee table just to ensure that the speakers work. Sounds pretty good actually....

The 14700K runs hot, uses a lot of power and is expensive. You have a lot of money going towards the cpu + board + case and not much for your graphics card. I would do something like this thus giving you more money towards your gpu. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: *Intel Core i7-13700F 2.1 GHz 16-Core Processor ($329.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: *Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($35.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: *MSI B760 GAMING PLUS WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($159.00 @ MSI) Memory: *Silicon Power Value Gaming 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($99.97 @ Amazon) Storage: *Acer Predator GM7000 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($129.99 @ Amazon) Case: MagniumGear Neo Air 2 ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg) Monitor: *Gigabyte GS27Q 27.0" 2560 x 1440 170 Hz Monitor ($179.99 @ Newegg) Total: $1014.83 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-24 06:02 EDT-0400

What is the budget? What is the room layout/size?

Summary X, formally known as Twitter forces url substitution to X.com, making users potentially vulnerable to phishing. Twitter rolls back feature after community pushback. Quotes My thoughts This article is a few weeks old, but it would be a really interesting WAN Show discussion. This is another example of Twitter/X making sudden decisions without much thought to how it would impact the platform. At what point do users decide to leave the platform, in search of one with more stability? I love how the user base has become unpaid employees of the platform, since they have reduced their workforce so much that no one seems to see issues with these features until they make it to production. Sources https://www.bitdefender.com/blog/hotforsecurity/xs-enforced-url-substitution-to-x-com-domains-an-invitation-to-phishing-attacks/

Hey folks, I'm hitting a wall with my Minecraft (only an example game that's not the purpose of my machine ) FPS, struggling to break the 100 FPS mark even on max settings, despite having what I thought was a powerful setup. After digging into a thorough diagnosis, I suspected either the PSU or the Mainboard might be the culprit. Here's the nitty-gritty of my diagnosis: PSU Suspicions: Initially, I leaned towards the PSU as a potential issue, primarily due to noticing fluctuations in the 12V rails while scrutinizing the HWINFO logs. However, even after swapping out the PSU with a new one, the problem persists. Mainboard Examination: Another area that raised red flags was the Mainboard, particularly because the VRMs were hitting the Tmax limit, as evident in the HWINFO logs. Consequently, I've ordered a replacement Mainboard, which is expected to arrive today. Here are my system specs: Case: MSI MPG SEKIRA 100R CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5950X CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 240 Motherboard: MSI MPG X570 Gaming Pro Carbon WiFi (including Wi-Fi + Bluetooth) RAM: 64GB (4x16GB) GSkill DDR4 3600MHz Trident Z NEO GPU: MSI RTX 4070 Ti 12GB PSU: 850W be quiet! Straight Power 11 Platinum Awaiting the arrival of the Gigabyte B550 AORUS ELITE AX V2 Mainboard today. If the new Mainboard doesn't resolve the issue, I'm running out of ideas on where to turn next. I've attached an HWINFO log captured during a benchmark for reference. Would greatly appreciate any insights or suggestions! Time Spy Extreme 4k gaming with DirectX 12.CSV

Getting 4 sticks of DDR5 working on Ryzen has always been tricky. As I haven't even touched any AM5 parts yet I can only speculate but in my case on AM4 with 4 sticks I have to increase DRAM Current Capability from default 100% to at least 120% otherwise my system will randomly shut down. Maybe you can do it too (but would have to boot with 2 sticks, set it up, turn off PC then insert remaining sticks and try to boot again). You may also need to bump up SOC and VDDP voltages slightly from default. Watch out with the SOC though as you don't want to go 1.3V+ if you're already there!

Hi, Need your input on a new build I am planning as my old PC has fully crashed and it's approx 13 years old anyways. So, here are the parts that I have been thinking about: Intel i7-14700K MSI PRO Z790-A MAX WIFI Asus DUAL RTX 4060 OC Corsair Vengeance DDR5 32 GB - 6000 MHz Black Samsung 990 PRO 1 TB (2) Deepcool PSU PN850M Deepcool LE520 AIO RGB Fractal North XL Case (Black TG) Please let me know if this is a good build to future proof for the next 5-7 years. Also, need recommendations for a good 27" Monitor to editing/light gaming/streaming. Budget (including currency): AED 7000 Country: UAE Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc):

It might be generally not be able to use 4 sticks. There are a few topics searchable in google about it, for one: https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/13nk4of/2_vs_4_sticks_of_ram_and_clock_speeds_on_7950x/ Or it just might need tweaking, don't ask me I'm not or Zen 4. But yeah, in google is very common 4 stix problem: 7950x four sticks RAM

My eyes dropped when I saw this rice of Hyprland by end-4 on github which is showed on the front page of https://hyprland.org/. Even on my piece of garbage of a display, it looks GORGEOUS. I followed the instructions on his github https://github.com/end-4/dots-hyprland. The command for Arch Linux seems to be - I ran the command and also fixed some dependency problems, and it actually said that the setup is finished. I then just ran "Hyprland" in TTY, and I get into Hyprland, but it says it is using an autogenerated config even after the config installation. Am I supposed to do something more? Do I need to copy the config? I am pretty sure the bash script uses yay to install from the AUR.

Hi, I just built a new PC with the following components: CPU: 7950x MB: ROG STRIX X670E-F GAMING WIFI RAM: 2x kit: KINGSTON FURY 64GB Beast DDR5 4800MHz CL38 KIT KF548C38BBK2-64 COOLER: ARCTIC COOLING Liquid Freezer III 360 black GPU: ZOTAC ZT-D40820Q-10P Trinity OC White GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER 16GB GDDR6X DLSS3 SSD: WD 2TB Black SN850X M.2 PCIe M.2 2280 WDS200T2X0E PSU: BE QUIET! Pure Power 12 M 1000W When I populate all 4 DIMMs, it gets stuck on a black screen with a yellow light on the motherboard. I've tried all combinations, but it only works when the RAM is installed in the second and fourth slots. I've tried updating the BIOS, removing the CPU and then placing it again, and checking all PSU cables. I even attempted to manually downgrade the RAM clock to 3600 or 3000, but nothing seems to work. Has anybody encountered the same problem or found a solution? Thanks

Yes maybe or the stick itself. Hopefully it turns on if you remove the 8gb stick

That sucks. It seems they wnt you to buy a new NAS. I expect you have read this already: https://docs.zerotier.com/synology/

working on fangrill little rear panel on the case.. paiting the motherboard tray cover. rear case panels graphics applied soon

With home cinema stuff, my personal opinion is the sound is more immersive than the video which is why I tend do invest more on my amp and speakers than I do on the screen. That being said, a buddy of mine swung past the house the other day with his XGIMI Horizon Ultra and I was very impressed. Once I convince the missus, its going on my shopping list lol. Sound bars are a good alternative to a complex 7.1.4 or 5.2.2 Atmos system but they really aren't a substitute for a discrete system. My Sonos Bar & Sub are in a secondary living / TV area which I love but I tend not to watch much in the way of movies in this area. For me, I stick with Yamaha for my AVRs as they have never failed me. My only venture away from them was with a Marantz that broke and got returned. My first yammy was a DSP-A2 from back in the late 90s. That was then replaced with an RX-V1700 and then again with an RX-A2060 and now I have the RX-A6A which I love so 4 amps spanning almost 30 years ain't bad. For speakers (see my sig), I tend to stick with B&W. At the time I was looking at Kef R-series but advised against pairing them with Yamaha amps so its always good to get advice on speaker / amp pairing. A good centre and a sub are key as they are the 2 speakers that will give you the most bang / clout. Some more info would be usefull. What size of room are you looking to fill? What is the room shape? Are there any doors / windows in bad places? What's your budget? Do you have a speaker layout in mind? 5.1 or 7.2.4.... or more? Do you have any neighbours? Concrete or timber floor? Cheers C

I gave my friend my unused 8gb sodimm stick(2666mhz), he installed it on his laptop with 4gb of soldered 3200mhz ram. And now his laptop shows black screen but his power button still lights up. He is using a Lenovo laptop with which model I'm not quite sure of. Could this caused by speed difference in the ram?

Hey guys, I want to use my AirPods to connect to the onboard entertainment system on several upcoming very long haul flights. Apple seem to have partnered with Twelve South on their AirFly Pro which is very well reviewed, but at the price point I'm loathed to pay the Apple tax. Has anyone else found a decent 3.5mm to BT5.3 transmitter with acceptably low latency? There are so many on Amazon and I don't trust the reviews anymore. Thanks.

Should be fine, I've got both of them mixed, essentially the same drives.