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It doesn't impress me. It creates maybe passable flavor-text/music you might hear in a shopping district inside a video game, but it doesn't sound real. It sounds like an AM Radio. This is the problem with most "music" and "voice" AI, is that taken separately (See RVC) you can make a perfect clone of another song because all the AI does is "autotune" the voice B from the original voice A, but you use the same backing audio. All you've done is made a cover using the source voice, which to me isn't a "cover", it's akin to "nightcore"'ing a song where you just speed it up 50% and have done nothing else to it. I'm not sure what the underlying process is for Udio because I've honestly just picked half a dozen different songs to check the genre adhere'dness but it seems like everything was washed with a noise filter that ranges from "radio" to "phonograph". I'd say most of these don't sound like what they claim to, and the ones that do, sound like they're inside a bathroom or hallway or down the street, or something. They all lack "professional sound" mixing feel to it. If this was 1960, you could probably get away with it on LP or tape. Thinking about it for a minute, I believe I know what they did. They likely used commercial music as training data from different periods, because that would explain the incoherent levels of noise. The AI doesn't understand the "hiss" of a LP isn't part of the music.

If the license is linked to a Microsoft account, you can usually activate Windows by simply logging in during the initial setup (or even afterwards). You just need to install the Windows version that the key was last activated on (in your case Win10 Pro).

Hey guys I am looking to upgrade my PC. Here are my specs: CPU - intel i7-7700k 4.2ghz GPU - Nvidia EVGA GTX1080ti SC2 11GB RAM - Corsair 16gb DDR4 PSU - Corsair TX550 MOTHERBOARD - Asus ROG Strix Z270H CASE - Corsair Carbide 400 STORAGE - SSD - Samsung 250gb 960 EVO M.2 NVMe STORAGE - HDD - Seagate 2TB ST2000DM006 SATA3 COOLING - iCUE H100i ELITE CAPELLIX liquid CPU cooler WINDOWS 10 HOME WIRELESS CARD Before doing some online research I wanted to just upgrade my beloved 1080ti to something like the RTX4070ti super, I earn vouchers at work for Amazon and have been saving up and can afford just that, can I just upgrade that for now and then upgrade the rest one by one when I can afford. I will also be using Unreal Engine and some 3d software would this be fine to run? Here are the upgrades I was thinking. CPU - AMD Ryzen 7800X3D GPU - RTX4070ti super RAM - Corsair Vengeance RGB DDR5 PSU - MSI MPG A850G MOTHERBOARD - ASUS ROG Strix B650e STORAGE - M.2 WD BLACK COOLING - iCUE H100i ELITE CAPELLIX liquid CPU cooler Really appreciate your help!

Pick a year, then literately go to Intel/AMD's website and look at was was released the year before. You can also go to Wikipedia So 2015 i7-4770K (DDR3), GeForce GTX 980 2016 i7-6700K (DDR4), GeForce GTX 1080 Of course, depending on the exact date, and certain circumstances (like how 10-series and 30-series were scalped online, and 20-series were overpriced) some people may have held onto a system far longer than normal. It's not unusual for someone to buy highend parts near the end of the RAM/PCIe lifecycle and then hang on to it. Like I have a i7-4770 in the closet, doesn't work anymore, it got replaced with a 11700K. However certain circumstances has requirement to purchase a 14700K, because a 9th gen laptop is no longer suitable for the use case it's been used for. The 11th gen is going to take it's place because it still has AVX512. Like ask most people who build their own rigs, they are not above buying a new CPU every year if that's what it takes for their use case, but most people who are simply playing games non-competitively already understand that you can stick with the CPU you have until the OS no longer supports it, and just upgrade the GPU until the MB tech changes. So if you want a PCIe5 GPU, you need a PCIe5 MB, otherwise you've slightly (5-30%) nerfed the GPU in certain tasks. But if you aren't upgrading the GPU (Eg a 20xx or 30xx) then you have no reason to upgrade the CPU before that. When it comes to completive games, people would rather play the games on low quality settings to get performance advantages, or even use third party tools to disable some GPU processing. This is why in a competitive space where there are real world rewards, everyone needs to play on the exact same hardware configuration.

I currently have Tuf Gaming b450-plus II. Also thanks about that bottleneck calculator stuff, It's good to know not to rely on them.

Good SSD NVMe are fast enough There are test, look it up. Doing optane cache for NVMe SSD is not good for performance, and uneven, as the driver is to small. And I say that as somebody with optane 905p 960GB OS drive.

You can try with 3rd party tracker like 17Track and see how it looks. Also, are you certain it is Canada Post number? They could have labelled it wrong and it's something else.

Edition Windows 10 Pro Version 22H2 Installed on ‎29-‎06-‎2020 OS build 19045.4291 Experience Windows Feature Experience Pack 1000.19056.1000.0 Hi,above info is of my current windows os on my pc. My windows 10 was a free upgrade from windows 8 several years ago. i purchased the windows 8 pro license from Microsoft. Now i want to change my motherboard. I lost windows 8 cd key. though windows activation showing - "Windows is activated with a digital license linked to your Microsoft account". so after installing new motherboard can i use activation troubleshoot to activate my windows 10 by transferring the license to the new hardware using my microsoft account which holds the digital license of that windows 10? or free upgrade to windows 10 after activating windows 8 on new motherboard? on home tab of "ShowKeyPlus" app, it's showing my product ID(20 digits), installed key((25 digits)(there's an asterisk beside my installed key which says-*default key - requires a digital license for activation) and these- product name: windows 10 pro build version: 19045.4291(64bit os) OEM key: OEM key not present in firmware

Yes, that's what I was wondering, if they were accurate at all. Thank you for the tips also.

"Bottleneck calculators" are nonsense, you might as well ask a random number generator. Whether you're CPU-bound or GPU-bound entirely depends on what games you play, there's no easy across-the-board answer. What motherboard do you have? If Ryzen 5000-series support is a BIOS flash away, something like a 5700X would be a noticeable upgrade for you.

A) Dont use those stupid bottleneck calculators. B) 5700X/5800X/5700X3D/5800X3D are all good options for you (as long as your motherboard supports them and you can cool them)

Budget (including currency): About 600€ Country: Slovakia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Mostly gaming, I want to be able to play the newest titles. Other details: Not so long ago I've upgraded almost every piece of my PC except for my CPU, since then I've been trying to find what CPU to even buy (I have an Radeon RX 6800XT and Ryzen 5 3600 rn) which obviously creates a huge bottleneck. According to the bottleneck calculator it's 29%. I am playing at 1080p, 144hz, because that's what my monitors allow. I've found a reddit thread about what CPU to match with this graphic card, but when I popped them into the bottleneck calculator they all showed like 15%+ bottleneck. I don't know if I should just try different CPU's in the calculator and just buy one with lower bottlenecks or if the calculator is somehow inaccurate ?

I'd be tempted to agree with that as well. While I'm not yet ready to jump all over the Ray Tracing scene, DLSS is a game changer and superior to FSR so the 4070ti Super is on my radar as well. Strangely enough, been considering one to shift an older 3080ti down my stack a little. Have you considered one of the open / show piece cases like the Thermaltake Core P3 or something similar. From the pics it does have feet but I'm sure I've seen pics of these fitted to walls.

could also be stolen goods?

I found someone selling a 'used Edge' however they're not local. @RevGAM - I re-examined the Thermalright AIO series and although I appreciate Freeagent's imput (hehe) - I am inclined to agree with your points that the Magic and Notte are the better AIOs overall for exactly what you said - better pump; better fans. Why? Well, the static pressure and cooling is better with the fans and for the pump - the power is lower - so, in theory - it should last longer than the other 4.8w fans (they're only 1.5W) - since, the pump is always operating and if you're stressing the cooler with gaming, for e.g., that's easier on the pump putting out lower power. It might NOT be a lot but unless the 4.8w pump is better designed somehow, the lower power pump should (in theory) be more effective or at least last longer. Are the other coolers (Edge, Aqua Elite) NEWER - with the square block design? I dunno - good question - I am not sure which is newer but sometimes new is not better - for e.g., if a company cuts costs with newer designs to maximize profits or whatever. I'm not sure if that was done here but from what I read- there's not too many comparisons done with the coolers - mostly, a reviewer (for e.g. youtuber) will only benchmark test one of them or compare them versus another brand/model. From what I read - most of the Thermalrights perform pretty similarly but with the usual differences of the fans - there's a few ppl I've talked to or read claim the fans are somewhat loud so that concerns me the most, I guess. I want to minimize noise and I don't want something much louder than my BQ DR Pro 4. I would consider swapping out fans but then I would introduce another potential problem - which fans, then and since that increases the cost - is it worth it? I guess it depends on what 3-pack is out there that would be worth doing that? The Notte I found on Amazon is $77 (CAD) plus tax and it's what I'm seriously considering. The 'used Edge' seller is not close enough to me (although they're asking $40 and might sell it before I decide) - although, there might be some arrangement I could do to get it. I think I should probably buy new anyway and most of the ones on Amazon are under $90.

https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/CvcgXL/gigabyte-b650-eagle-ax-atx-am5-motherboard-b650-eagle-ax https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B650-EAGLE-AX/sp#sp LAN: Realtek GbE LAN chip (1 Gbps/100 Mbps/10 Mbps) https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/szfxFT/msi-b650-gaming-plus-wifi-atx-am5-motherboard-b650-gaming-plus-wifi https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/B650-GAMING-PLUS-WIFI/Specification LAN: Realtek 8125BG 2.5G LAN

Are you able to boot to windows without the Crucial drive connected? Does the conversion tool run without that drive?

Haswell could natively boot off of NVMe SSDs, it's just that most motherboards didn't have M.2 slots yet. I shoved an NVMe SSD on a passive M.2 to PCIe x4 riser card into a Precision 5810 workstation with a Haswell CPU in it, and it booted right up. But yeah, the 4790k / 1080ti combo aged like wine. I wonder how much of that was due to Intel spinning their wheels from Skylake through Comet Lake.

My last two wanted case badges for Frog Got the last one of those Roland ones. 5 other people had it in their basket too

Can you plug a GPU into a different PCIe slot?

With a 6600XT I would have said just to swap for a decent air cooler, but most RTX designed have a blow-through, which is very effective for the GPU, but some of the hottest air from the GPU gets pumped at the CPU intake on air coolers (not good). I now recommend AIO CPU cooling when the system has a blow-through GPU cooler. If you are considering a new AIO, then Arctic Freezer 2 (or 3) are some of the best performing out there and way cheaper than some of those other ones that place cosmetics way above actual performance.... you can pay 3x the same price for something that won't actually work as well, but just look better. Try to get one with the 140mm fans (e.g. the 280/420mm) if you can as they push a lot more air than the ~15% extra size would have you think: Fan theory: Think about those fan blades in a 120mm / 140mm form factor spinning at the same rpm.. but there there is ~25% more fan area (the centre 15mm is usually dead space and the next 5-10mm either side is a very ineffective fan blade shape, so you're actually comparing 90mm blades to 110mm blades) AND the extra area they are moving is further out, so at the same RPM , that part of the fan is moving a lot faster and moving more air. With identical CPU block, pump, etc.... a 280mm (2x140mm) is normally as effective as a 360mm (3x120mm) for outright cooling performance, although the 360mm will have more "heatsoak" capacity due to the larger radiator and therefore more fluid in the system. Definitely stick to using proper AIO fans - ideally the provided ones or be really careful if you select alternatives.... they need to fit and seal properly and need to be of the right type (optimised for static pressure, not just unobstructed airflow).

6750XT is only 250W so you can safely use only 1 cable Starting at 300W using 2 cables is recommended, though I don't think it's really unsafe up to 350W

He bought the NV2 already, I will tell him about the RAM.

Especially since you also do work, I'd recommend to go for regular LCD monitors. The Samsung Odyssey Neo G7 is a good Mini LED VA monitor. If you want to still try your luck with OLED, go for one of the 32" 4K models.

They make cables this way because the cable can carry 300W but according to PCIe specifications the sockets on the GPU should only ever do 150W. So they add two plugs per cable. Modular PSUs do not have to follow the PCIe limit at the PSU end, so they can get away with using a single plug, although it may actually be using higher quality plugs/sockets to achieve this, even if they look the same as the GPU side. The GPU sockets may even be fine at 300W, but they have to follow the specification for safety reasons so that if you plugged in a PSU that CAN only deliver 150W over a single cable, it wouldn't overload it and set the cable on fire.