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Well I'm at the end of my rope. Got new SSD. Installed Windows. (spent like 2 entire hours just getting my monitors and boot order to work for some reason.) I have no idea how to just USE my old user profile. I copied all the contents. Nope. I copied the (possible) entirety of the old user folder to the new drive. Nope. I made a new user in Windows, and named it the exact same thing as the old user, AND IT MADE A NEW FUCKING USER WITH SOME GARBAGE TEXT AFTER THE NAME I MADE. I want to throw the whole thing away. I truly do. Am I doing something wrong? Can I access my old user profile? (I have the old drive still connected, and can access it as a tertiary drive)

Thanks, man!! Much appreciated for the video - that's QUIET! I don't have the best hearing but that seemed pretty good to me. Good to know that it's pretty good with stock fans, right? I might not have to swap fans - but, even if I did - I could probably just see how it goes for a while. The question remains though - whether to get the Notte or Scenic Magic - I think it's definitely between those 2.

What games is your 1650 Super struggling to run?

Based on fps? High pitched buzz? Coil whine.

A lot of the videos that I looked at highlighted I would need a m.2 ssd in addition to my hdd in my pc. But I don’t have one readily available.

I have a PC right now with an i5-11400f and want to upgrade my GPU from a 1650 SUPER to something higher. I've heard and seen that I should get a 3060, or a 3070, but I'm just here as a way of verification for what I should actually get. I don't want too much bottleneck, but also not some obviously crazy expensive GPU. Thank you, if you respond.

Yes, every game deserves preservation, when "preservation" boils down to a no-scam rule: you don't sell games that will stop to be playable with no reasonable exist strategy (and the level of "reasonable" proposed by Ross is really light on developers/publishers). They can still disappear forever because none of the people who bought it chooses to keep a copy, because no one chooses to keep working hardware that is compatible. Dead by oblivion is still very possible under that scenario. But prohibiting "death by killswitch", even for people who have the game, the hardware and the will, is all the level of preservation being demanded here.

Which 600w PSU? The model matters.

Win10 won't have updates (unless you pay for it), it won't be killed If the PC is used for basic tasks it won't make any difference imo

Get the 5700X3D. You'll be able to power even a stronger GPU if needed.

Windows 10 is going to hit end of life before too much longer. One of the main drivers for upgrading my hardware is if I am going to freshly reinstall with Windows 11 anyway I might as well upgrade the hardware as well. At least for the 1600X system. The 1600(12nm) is getting upgraded because I want to switch from 65w CPU plus 75w GPU to a Ryzen 7 8700G and it will get the Mint 22 when that comes out in a couple of months. Another option is to do Windows 10 for now and then upgrade the CPU to something like at 2600 or 3600 when I upgrade the OS to Windows 11 later. Would also spread the cost out.

I distro hop in the past. Fedora and ubuntu are by far my go to when I just want something reliable. I ditched fedora recently because I don't really like having to deal with rolling release in which I am force to upgrade my system every year. Ubuntu LTS with its half decade support life works better.

If it's related to load, it's almost certainly coil whine. Pretty normal for some components, motherboards, power supplies and most often video cards. The sound is inductors, they're a copper coil inside a ceramic housing as part of power delivery circuits. They basically clean voltage, smooths out fluctuations in it. When they do this they vibrate ever so slightly, and with very specific voltage changes it can be audible. The sound you hear is the copper coil in the inductor vibrating against the ceramic housing. Most often they're sealed with an epoxy but it's not perfect. It's an inherent attribute of manufacturing scale. Really bad coil whine at all loads is a quality control issue and with some manufacturers you can RMA the component. But if it's inconsistent, or only happens at specific loads, its just luck of the draw and you gotta deal with it.

So I am looking at picking up a Razer Blade 14 from a friend for 600 bucks. It has the RTX 3070, but he says it doesnt work. Pictures hes showed me show that the 3070 isnt listed in Task Manager at all, but it is listed under display adapters in Device manager, and is said to be working properly. Is this something to stay away from, or an easy issue? I saw someone on the Razer forum with this exact same issue but the post had 0 replies. Figured someone here might know.

If your GPU was on the way out, it's more likely that your entire system would shut down, possibly throw a BSOD, a POST code, or fail to boot.

Make sure the only standoffs installed are the ones you need, if there are extra you could be shorting something on the back of your motherboard. Beyond that try using just one stick of ram, try both sticks in both slots individually to narrow down having a back stick or a possibly a bad slot. If that changes nothing reseat the GPU. Still no changes, then reseat the CPU. turn your power supply off completely when removing or installing components. Best of luck. Also, if you have the chance, pictures would help. Could be as simple as a forgotten connector.

I'm pretty sure their main goal is to make money. Not any different from Facebook, YouTube etc. No one forces you to use it, if you go there, you want it. Their algorithm feeds you what you are interested in. That is why you stay on. And for the data and privacy issue and the commies stealing our data... Look at how our government steals our data and spies on us. Google patriot act etc Most content on those social media shit is from stupid users. You can't outlaw stupidity. If you could, we wouldn't have 80 year old senators who don't even know email make decisions about IT. I never used tiK Tok. But it sounds like the stupid "shorts" on YT. To each their own and nothing will get better by government deciding what is appropriate for us to use

What if you move your DIMMs to slots B1 and B2? How does the system react? I doubt a BIOS update would fix anything since this is standard, especially if the update doesn't even address your issues. My thought at the moment is the slot is bad.

Then a simple reboot should be gone by now. I hope since some files were corrupt.