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I'm a bit late but I have been studying a lot in my spare time in order to meet my schedule, so please forgive me for my lateness. Anyways.........!
Now the book I am using to study this with has a "skip" section on the handwriting section if your aim is to just read/speak it, but if you wish to persist through this too, I've taken some sample shots of the pages' instructions. If you need clearer images, I went ahead and googled some more references for you that you can get to by clicking the title of the Spoiler Tag. All of the Handwriting section will be under a spoiler, since by itself it is huge and because it is skippable.
Yup. That's the end of that. Feel free to practice it!
More on Russian Pronunciation: Stress
Just like in English (or many other languages) some syllables in Russian are pronounced more prominently than others. In English, for example, consider the differences of "Phótograph" and "Photógraphy". If you don't know the differences of the words, pronounce each carefully. Notice how in "Phótograph" you put more emphasis on the first syllable? And in the second word "Photógraphy" the stress is marked on the second syllable. Stress in Linguistics is signaled by an increased loudness, vowel length, full articulation of a vowel, and changes in pitch. If you need more information on syllables and stress, please consider looking into the links I have provided at the bottom of this entry under "Resources".
Continuing on: In Russian, normal writing does not mark stress visually, just like in English, so it is important to learn the stress of words or the general stress rule. Be careful though with stress in words and most definitely names, since the traditional English pronunciation is often never matches the Russian. For example, English speakers tend to put stress on "влади́мир" (Vladimir) in the first syllable like so "Vládimir", but in Russian stress is always placed on the second syllable, like so "[Vla-de’е-meer]".
Here are some more examples:
- The writer Pasternak is "Пастерна́к" (not Pа́sternak)
- Nabokov is "Набо́ков " (not Nа́bokov)
- Oblomov (a man in Goncharо́v's famous novel) is "Обло́мов" (not О́blomov)
Stress in Russian is heavier than it is in English and much harder to predict which syllable is going to get lucky and get marked for stress. Sometimes you will find that different forms of the same word will have different stresses. For example, in Russian hand "Рука́" and hands "Ру́ки" have two completely different stresses. The first "Рука́" has stress on the end and the second word "Ру́ки" has stress on the first. It is one of the many reasons why you should learn the stress of words you are learning/know of...otherwise, if you do not know the stress, the safest method to proceed is to read it without stress at all, syllable by syllable.
Next we delve into a bit more of the Linguistics of the language itself. If your goal is to just be understood, feel free to skip this. But if you are like me, you want to know how things work and why. If you are, the following six points will show you the small differences between Moscow Russian is written and the way it is pronounced.
Many call it the indication of a good Russian accent and from what I have heard and dealt with, I'd agree with them. I learned more about what this is actually called (and generally more about it) from a friend (@aalsuvorov) who has been willing to educate me further in Russian. What it is is the correct pronunciation of soft consonants and you might be wondering what "soft consonants" are. Well, "soft" means the consonant is pronounced with a simultaneous y sound. You can tell if a consonant is soft if it is followed by any of these letters/sounds:
е ё и ю я or the soft sign "Ь".
The main thing you must remember to do is pronounce the y sound with the consonant before it. Many people end up pronouncing the two separately instead of simultaneously. For example the word "сове́т" ('council') is pronounced [s-a-vy-е́-t] — that's five sounds. The vy (soft в) is not two sounds, but one! In English, we say it "s-o-v-i-e-t", six, instead of five sounds!
Hard Consonants vs Soft Consonants;
'Hard' consonants are pronounced just like in English, without the simultaneous y sound like in soft consonants. Earlier, in "", we learned there are twenty consonants. Of them, with the exception of "" and "", are all hard consonants. "" and "" are always soft! Of the other eighteen, fifteen of them will tell you if they are to be pronounced soft, as they will always be marked with any of "е ё и ю я" or the soft sign shown above. For example, "Л" [l] is hard but "Ль" [ly] is soft! That is to say, in Russian "[l]" and "[ly]" are two different sounds, but to many English speakers they probably just think it is a variant (allophone) of [l].
For example, compare the [l] in "people" to the [l] in "leaf". Do you hear the difference (different dialects might make this hard though)? The [l] in "people" is like "Л" (hard) while the [l] in "leaf" is like "Ль" (soft). Do you notice the differences? Here are some more examples of hard and soft consonants in Russian:
- Мйло [meela] 'nice' - hard л
- Мйля [meelya] 'mile' - soft ль
- Лук [look] 'onion' - hard l
- Люк [lyook] 'hatch' - [ly] is soft
- Мат [mat] 'bad language', 'abuse' - hard т
- Мать [maty] 'mother' - soft ть
- Мать [maty] 'mother' - hard М
- Мять [myaty] 'to crumple' - soft [my]
Before И the [y] element is less audible but please be aware that regardless the consonant is still soft.
- Бить [beety] 'to beat' - soft Б
However, if the 'Б' was hard, the vowel would not be и but ы. For example:
- Быть [bity] 'to be' - hard Б
Consonants that are always hard: Ж Ц Ш
Even though the letters е ё и ю я ь mark the preceding consonant soft, there are exceptions...like most languages. Thankfully not as much as French, though. They are the following: Ж Ц Ш. These letters are always—always—pronounced hard (no [y] sound!), no matter the following letter. Like the word Жена́ 'wife' is pronounced [zhe-nа́] —the [y] of the letter e [ye] simply disappears.And in Жёны 'wives' is pronounced as if it were written like Жо́ны [zhо́-ni]. Ты зна́ешь 'you know' is actually pronounced as if it were written like Ты зна́еш [znа́-yesh]. The soft sign has no effect and has become historical in usage only.
Oh, and before I forget to add it...after the letters 'Ж', 'Ц' and 'Ш' you should hear the vowel и [ee] pronounced as if it were actually ы [ i ]. As so:
- Жить [zhity] 'to live'
- Цирк [tsirk] 'circus'
Next time on Learning Russian! (lol) we learn about voiced and unvoiced consonants! How fun! Stick around and just remember...practice makes perfect! Or so they say...
So, I have not been exactly the most active blog member. I've been going through a job change- from IT Technician to Network Manager at the biggest school in my town. So proud. Anyway, places change, jobs change but people... people never change. A girl came up today asking for a "Geiger counter". If I was a halfwit I'd have no idea what she was on about but I know a few things about science, 3 to be exact. I said I'm the Network manager but she said "my teacher told me to go to the technician". "Well, maybe your teacher had the science technician in mind"? Damn.
Over and out. I'll have probably less blog entries now since this sort of thing is rare unlike my previous job...
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My computer is
CPU: AMD FX-4300 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock 970 EXTREME4 ATX AM3+ Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Kingston Savage 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card
Case: Corsair SPEC-03 Red ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Silverstone Strider Gold 450W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit)
I need to know what drivers to install
Can my system upgrade to a gtx 950 it has a : >AMD FX-4300 3.8GHz
>8GB DDR3 1600
>AMD Radeon HD 7670 2GB GDDR3
>a 350w power supply
>Chipset AMD 970
>http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA24G1XA5604&cm_re=cm1855-_-9SIA24G1XA5604-_-Product (link to my pc incase of any question's)
So hi peeps. I'm back, who's back, this guy he's back. Aw yeah!
Been on some form of hiatus but I do wanna finish my upcoming design & start working on physical building my tower case from scratch hopefully this year. Still thinking & re-thinking important stuff and things that'll be totally custom as prototypes which can eventually become a working product. #Crossyourfingers
Haven't made any updates because I'm just busy & need to find myself a job soon.
i want to use a rfid reader and rfid card for windowslog in.I dont care about security. I am in windows 10.PLease tell me how can i do that and where i can find the hardware. IF the hardware is found in amazon it will be good
Advisory: I have no credibility nor full knowledge of what's behind the scenes in the full spectrum scale. Yet I see so many issues that are not/ only now are being addressed at all.
CS:GO - (This will be my main focus, I plan on properly writing an essay/article about my thoughts but since I have never done anything like this and I am too ignorant to learn on my own, I am hoping for your constructive input.)
As it has been highly discussed, these bans issued to the iBuyPower players seem rather unfair. Not for what they did but because there were no countermeasures at the time of the event. And when it started getting exposed Valve took a hammer and put them down to create an example to the rest of the players, instead of properly addressing it in a collective manner, leaving them blinded for a year with no hopes of getting their careers back.
This is a two sided story as it creates controversy regarding their actions named stealing, robbing and essentially committing legal crimes. Although I cannot dispute these statements I can say that Valve had no right to ban them simply for the greater good of the future of competitive CS if not eSports as a whole. They should have been punished themselves as they did not think this could happen, or if they did they simply chose to ignore it. Valve should have contacted some sort of legal advisor to set ground rules on match fixing. Even though it is obvious it is bannable, it wasn’t stated in the rules of the tournament they were involved in.
eSports in general using the CS scene -
But enough of match-fixing scandals, on the something more productive. I have really enjoyed watching D!ngIT Weekly Cups with $200 up for grabs by tier 2-3 teams as well as Acer Predator Masters, Uprise Champions and Operation Kinguin. These are some of the events that deserve to be watched regularly by us and that should be the main focus. Instead of the exhaustive top tier teams constantly fighting in, more than too often honestly, tourneys that become less and less interesting as the amount increases. Leaving the teams with not enough time to practice as much and us getting tired and losing that special interest we had in watching our favourite team fight for that special spotlight.
With this last rather confusing paragraph, what I’m trying to get across is that there is very little exposure for the smaller teams and even the tier 2. After a decade in eSports, each major game (LoL, SC2 and CS:GO) should be able to support each team monetarily not in prizes but in sponsors. The top tier teams shouldn’t have to compete for $5000 dollars every other week to be able to generate enough revenue to have a house and food after retiring. eSports only become a feasible option when you are able to retire and either find another job on the area that you have studied for while you were doing it part-time, or if you fully committed you must have enough money to walk it off for at least a couple of years after.
These issues are a rather painful thing to sort out but it would be an ideal reality. There are sponsors and investors willing to put money down for this, mainly because there are numbers to back these ideas up.
Now I realize this last bit became quite a cluster of ideas and it became rather hard to understand. Again, I’m hoping for input from you guys to help me understand the scene better and hopefully spread the word and help the players and the aspiring ones.
- I don’t think the iBuyPower shouldhave been banned because Valve didn’t have any rules against it at the time of the happening and they should be punished by not being allowed to do so.
- CS:GO pros need to be top tier in order to have CS as a main focus of income and career and need to play too many tournaments in order to have enough to retire and not have to work for some years.
- This issue should be addressed by having more money down by sponsors and there should be also higher pay and more room for smaller tier teams (2-3).
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I recently acquired my first monitor have been experiencing some weird resolution issues when using my Displayport cable for connection between the monitor and computer.
My PC is an ASUS ROG G20CB and my monitor is a BENQ XL2430T, 144hz monitor.
So here is the quick and skinny, I have the monitor listed above attached via Displayport cable to my PC and I have my TV attached via HDMI to my PC as well. Both devices are 1080p resolution so naturally I run them as such. I have them set to duplicate so I can run my games to the monitor as well as the TV for playing in the living room with controller or watching movies/videos, etc. The issue arises when I shut down the system and then start it up again. The monitor changes to 800x600p resolution at 60hz and I am unable to bring it all the way back up to 1920x1080p resolution (the highest it will go is 1600x1024p). Regardless of how I set up the TV and monitor (meaning if it is duplicating, extending, show only 1 or 2) I can't correct it back to 1080p.
I am currently using my Dual Link DVI cable instead of the Displayport and I have no issues with it adjusting the resolution upon shutdown or restart.
Has anyone seen this before or know how to correct it?
I have been playing Team Fortress 2 now for 750 hours, and my computer has been running quite slow on it recently. Back when I changed my graphics card to a 750ti, i got 100 fps average, but now I get around 40-50. However when i switch to other games i usually run it on high settings at around 60 fps (depending which game). I wondered why this happens? Is there any way to get my fps back up? or should i change hardware...? Thanks for your time ^-^
Dual Intel Xeon E5450 @ 3.00GHz
Nvidia GTX 750ti
32Gb DDR2 Ram
Dell 0RW203 motherboard
1Tb Seagate SATA Drive
I need a small form factor power supply for a Project I'm working on the maximum hight is 5cm... the ohter dimentions arent that important bute should also be as small as possible...
I have been googling around but I haven't found anything really good so I'm asking you guys if anyone of you knows a power supply with 400w and the max hight of 5cm.
Im currently learning english so don't blame me on that one.
I'm buy some PC parts and I was wondering if the cpu and motherboard work or if I need to choose a different motherboard. I would also like to have some recommendations for ram and power supply I should use.
Processor Intel® Core i5-4690K CPU @ 3.50GHz Manufacturer Intel Speed 3.5 GHz Number of Cores 4 Video Card 1 ASUS R9 270X Series Manufacturer ATI Chipset ASUS R9 270X Series Dedicated Memory 4096 MB Total Memory 4.0 GB Video Card 2 Intel® HD Graphics 4600 Manufacturer Intel Chipset Intel® HD Graphics 4600 Dedicated Memory 192.0 MB Total Memory 1.8 GB Memory 16 GB Operating System Microsoft Windows 7 Professional Edition Service Pack 1 (build 7601), 64-bit Service Pack 1 Size 64 Bit Edition Professional PSU 750watts 80+ gold
the specs above show what is inside the computer, i also have a cpu cooler from cooler master.
the plan is to overclock the cpu and also to get a new/better GPU but im not sure what the GPU would be best for my system. my budget is around £300 but don't mind going over a little.
side notes the maximum length for the gpu can only be 32 cm as my case is fairly small.
any help would be greatly appreciated :)
Audio interference (as defined below under "Symptoms") is a defect in a system due to hardware, software or firmware problems. It is not an inevitable consequence of using an integrated audio codec or sound card.
Purchase of a sound card or external DAC is not necessary to fix this issue in most cases.
STEP 1: Sanity Check (START HERE FIRST)
Before diving into an exhaustive troubleshooting process, do some basic pre-checks:
- Ensure that audio connectors are inserted into the correct jack (headphones in headphone jack, speakers in line-out)
- Ensure that audio connectors have the right wiring for the given jack (e.g. 3-pin plug to 3-pin jack, 4-pin to 4-pin, etc)
- Ensure audio connectors are fully and firmly inserted into audio jacks
- Ensure that software or drivers are properly configured (headphone mode for headphones, speaker mode for speakers)
IMPORTANT NOTE: Make sure that your system supports the type of device you are using. If you are using headphones, make sure that your audio source supports headphones and is CONFIGURED to support headphones. A "tinny" sound may mean that you are trying to use headphones while your audio is in speaker mode.
Audio interference manifests as any of the following sounds coming through speakers, headphones, or other audio recording and playback equipment. Coil whine coming directly from a power supply, GPU, or motherboard capacitor is not audio interference, although it may be related.
- Continuous static, clicks, crackles, or pops; Rice Crispy sounds
- Static or buzzing when moving the mouse, typing on the keyboard, or accessing physical drives
- Static, buzzing, or crackling when in a game or during other heavy 3D workloads
- Continuous hum or buzz around 60Hz and/or its harmonics
- Intermittent buzzing that may follow a regular pattern
The canned solution to audio interference is to get an external DAC or soundcard. This advice frequently results in needless expenditure and may not even address the underlying problem.Spoiler
- Ground loop: A problem where there is more than one path to ground, with differing potential between the two grounds. This usually causes a continuous, audible hum or buzz around 60Hz or its harmonics.
- SLI or Crossfire: Multi-GPU setups may cause various issues with audio processing.
- Overclocking: Overclocks to the CPU, GPU, system RAM, or other components.
- UEFI/BIOS: Out-of-date motherboard BIOS may degrade PCI performance or promote instability.
- Drivers: Out-of-date drivers for audio or other components may cause high latency and degraded performance.
- Software: Extraneous bloatware, particularly those that are audio-related, may reduce performance. Applications that run with a "realtime" priority may also be at fault.
- Power management: OS and BIOS settings designed to save energy such as C1E and EIST.
- Improper grounding: A (very) low quality power supply without proper ground connection or a motherboard not properly seated against the I/O plate may rob the system of a proper path to ground. Older AC wall outlets may also lack a true ground.
- Electrical short: Improper electrical contact between components may cause various problems; an out of place motherboard standoff or contact between add-on cards are possible culprits.
- Internal cabling: Poor quality power supply cables, GPU power splitters, extensions, and poor cable combinations/placement may contribute to power fluctuations and EMI. Low quality cables and adapters are a fire hazard.
- External cabling: Data or analog audio cables running close or parallel to power cables, or any cable - whether data, audio, or AC - that lacks proper shielding/filtering may render the audio chain vulnerable to external RFI and EMI interference.
- Electrical wiring: Improper wiring of AC wall sockets or lack of ground may cause issue with power delivery and proper grounding of components.
- Network over AC (Powerline): Powerline networking causes massive amounts of RFI in the surrounding environment and may cause audible interference in sufficiently sensitive audio gear.
- Component proximity: Placing sensitive audio equipment close to sources of EMI or RFI may introduce audio interference to the signal chain. These sources may include but are not limited to mobile phones, wireless access points, graphics cards, power transformers, and radio transmitters/transceivers.
STEP 2: Diagnostic Process
As audio interference may be caused by an enormous range of problems, the purpose of diagnostics is to narrow down the proximate cause in as systematic fashion as possible. At this point do not directly attempt to solve the problem.
- Perform each check in the following list. If the audio interference issue goes away, you have likely identified the cause. In some cases, no further steps may be required.
- If the troubleshooting step fixes the issue but is not practical for normal use (such as booting in Windows Safe Mode or disabling an overclock), consult the corresponding Solutions and Workarounds section below.
Test different headphones/speakers on the system AND test the same headphones/speakers on a different system
- This will determine if the problem is related to your system or your headphones/speakers
Test all audio jacks/USB ports, both on the case and on the rear motherboard IO panel
- A jack or port may be bad
Reduce system master volume and/or game master volume from 100% to 75-80%
- For microphones: reduce volume and turn down gain/boost if available
Disable all audio effects in the Windows Sound and Audio Devices Properties
- Audio effects in the Windows mixer reduce quality and can cause interference
Check for Driver and Software Issues:
Try different settings in the audio drivers control panel or system audio settings
- Ensure that if you are using headphones that your audio is in headphone mode
- Ensure that if your audio settings have an impedance or gain setting that it is not too high or too low
- Boot Windows in Safe Mode; if the interference stops it is likely caused by a driver
- Disable unused audio devices in the Windows Device Manager
- Check Task Manager for resource hogs and real-time priority processes
- Perform a full virus scan
Check for Power Management Issues:
- Disable C1E (Enhanced halt state) and EIST (Intel SpeedStep) in BIOS
- Set Windows Power Plan to Power Saver or High Performance
- Disable all overclocks (CPU, GPU, RAM, etc)
Check for Hardware Issues:
- Disable unused/non-essential motherboard components at the BIOS level, such as NICs or RAID/SATA controllers
- Disconnect ALL non-audio peripherals (including mouse, keyboard, and display)
- Disconnect front audio header and use motherboard rear-panel or sound card; if you are already using rear-panel audio, try front-panel instead
- Remove discrete graphics cards
- Remove discrete soundcard
Check for Electrical Shorts and Grounding Issues:
- Remove case side panels; check for unwanted electrical contact between components such as wires and electrical contacts
- Disconnect front audio header
- Verify that the motherboard is firmly secured. Standoffs and screws should be firm. Ensure the motherboard is firmly seated in the IO plate, and that the IO plate is firmly seated in the case.
- Verify that the power supply is properly secured in the case and that it is connected to a grounded (3-prong) outlet
Check for Wireless Interference:
- Relocate possible sources of EMI/RFI interference away from the computer and audio equipment (wireless access points, wireless peripherals, mobile phones, microwave ovens, etc)
Unplug other appliances that may be source of interference over AC power
- This includes but is not limited to: household appliances, dimmer light switches, and other computers
- Connect the system a different AC wall socket, preferably on a different circuit breaker
Check External Cabling:
- Try switching out audio signal or data transmission cables for working spares
- If experiencing interference in only one channel of a multi-channel system, swap the channel cables
- Move AC power cables as far away as possible from audio and digital cables, and eliminate parallel runs where possible
- Swap compatible AC power cables or switch them out for a working spare
Check Electrical Wiring:
Obtain and use an AC wall socket tester (usually available for less than $10); if issues are found, try a different outlet or re-wire
- If you do not have a socket tester, try plugging your system into another outlet, preferably a kitchen or bathroom GFCI outlet, which are generally required to be grounded by code
STEP 3: Solutions and Workarounds
- Disable microphone gain or effects in the Windows Sound and Audio Devices Properties
- Test different sampling rates in the Windows Sound and Audio Devices Properties; for example 16 vs 24 bit, 44.1kHz vs 192kHz.
Audio Device Conflict:
Disable unused audio devices in the Windows Sound and Audio Devices Properties OR Windows Device Manager
This includes the HDMI audio output included on many GPUs
- Disable unused recording devices in the Windows Sound and Audio Devices Properties OR Windows Device Manager
- Try peripherals in different USB ports
- Move add-on cards, including GPU, and ensure they are properly seated
- Re-seat auxiliary power cables
- Use different power harness combinations if available from power supply
- Ensure that motherboard and IO plate are properly seated (grounded)
- Disable SLI and remove one card; re-boot and re-enable SLI
Disable unnecessary startup programs and services, especially those that are audio-related
Exercise caution; some startup items might be essential to the proper function of your computer
Flashing the BIOS or changing the CMOS can cause the memory and PCI performance to improve. Occasionally, this can cause performance to degrade. For more information about specific versions or for information about updates, please contact your motherboard manufacturer.
Download and install latest audio drivers from motherboard manufacturer website
You may need to use a beta driver or even downgrade in some situations
Download and install latest graphics drivers from GPU manufacturer website
You may need to use a beta driver or even downgrade in some situations
- Remove and reinstall default Windows audio drivers (uninstall device and scan for hardware changes in Windows Device Manager)
Update other device drivers from motherboard manufacturer website
For unused devices (SATA controllers, etc): Uninstall driver and disable device in BIOS or Windows Device Manager
- Update motherboard BIOS using latest downlaod from motherboard manufacturer website (use caution)
- Ensure that SATA devices are not conflicting with PCI memory resources. Changing to a different controller may help.
- Re-route AND/OR add shielding to the front audio header cable
- Try different power harness combinations from the power supply: for example, if using two PCIe power cables for a GPU, try a single cable with a splitter (if available)
- Move audio signal and data cables away from power cables and AC lines and/or ensure they intersect at 90 degree angles
- Use properly shielded 2.0 spec USB cables for audio:
- Replace defective AC power cables
Verify that all wall-powered peripherals are plugged into the same outlet via an EMI/RFI filtered power strip
- See below under "Electrical wiring/Ground loop" for a more robust line filtering solution
Electrical Wiring/Ground Loop:
Verify that all wall-powered peripherals are plugged into the same outlet via an EMI/RFI filtered power strip:
- For more robust AC line filtering: Tripp Lite LC1200 Line Conditioner 1200W
- Purchase a ground loop isolator of the type appropriate for the audio connection that is causing the issue:
- If your electrical wiring is a fault, you may need to have it fixed by a qualified electrician
Sources and References
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I just found this awesome site called techberge. (techberge.cf) It focuses on smartphones, and little bit on others. I have contacted the creator and they said they will be releasing more content often about new things. They also have a twitter page @techberge. Also they were saying that they are creating a youtube channel and videos will be out soon. They are a newer site so lets support them.
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okay guys i know this may seem odd but im making the world wide SOS i have a friend in need. i figured this was the best place to put it up because we are both huge tech nerds we both love building and tinkering with PC's and linus has directly inspired me, before i first started watching the video's i was a total noob i hadnt the first clue of what to do to a pc... soo thank you... now back to what i was saying... my best friend recently had a horrible accident... he lost everything house, wife, car, and all of our tech stuff... he is currently staying with me and i cant stand to see him soo sad... i know that i cant get his wife back or any of those things back but id like to atleast give him some kind of joy... he plays games on my pc and spends most of his time there... soo i was thinking an i know it seems foolish to think like this but i know im not the only tech guy around with more then one piece to a pc that isnt being used currently... at the moment i currently hace a PSU, a GPU and a case... the PSU is a 750 watt OCz 80+ bronze psu, very stought and very strong i used it in my first rig... i have 2 GTX 550ti's that i used to run in sli and i have thermaltake h22 case... well im wanting to get him a rig together to handle some gaming sure im lacking in the graphic department but i used them just fine for most games... sure nothing was maxed but it was a good enough gaming experience... soo my proposition is i wanted to make a distress call to all the tech geeks like me and try and give him something to have fun on with me and our buddies... soo if anyone has any piece of hardware laying around that they arent using please give me a shout im more then willing to buy the hardware but im on a budget and i think it would be alot cooler to buy hardware for you guys and have you show your support instead of going all in on brand new hardware... ill try my best to keep yall updated on what i have bought or recieved... if this isnt your cup of tea thats fine but if your not using it or dont need it let me know i wanna see my friend smile again
I need a little help my dad is upgrading his computer but I really need to know can you game with Xeon E5-2680 processor here's a full list of what he wants to use with it and I need to know which type of power supplies that is not super expensive but quite affordable but good quality to get
Here's the list of the parts he has now
AMD Phenom II X6 1055T
AMD Entertainment Editon 16GB (AE34G1609U2)
ASUS R9 280X DC2T 3GD5 X2
LSP Ultra 750W ATX
Here's the list of the parts he wants
ASUS ROG Rampage IV Gene
AMD Entertainment Editon 16GB (AE34G1609U2) Reusing
ASUS R9 280X DC2T 3GD5 X2 Reusing
power supplies not sure
he's using 2 R9 280X
I need people who knows what they're doing to comment on this please don't be that one person who comments [just choose this] I want a professional comment
Short version (TLDR):
I have not build my own rig/workstation in years and decided it was time to get back to it. I also decided my cousin needed an upgraded as he is going into his Senior year of high school and I wanted him to have the best resources he won’t use for studying.
4970k, r920x DD by XFX, 16 gig ddr 3, msi krait edition mobo, intel 500 series ssd, asus 24’ 1080p 144Hz gaming monitor (my old one + my old gaming keyboards, mice, etc). Windows 10 Pro.
I heard great things about XFX but they still have not returned my phone call or responded to my ticket. The card I received from NewEgg was idling at 50C+ due to one of the fans being broken? So to speak. NewEgg did not offer a refund for the card but an exchange, however, they were out of stock. I got the refund and put it towards a hyper fury x. Let’s say I was impressed by the AMD drivers but nothing else. I gave him one of my 980 TI’s and off he went.
I understand fully why NewEgg is such a stickler about returns now. Certain companies are terrible about replacing products they mass produce – this is beyond absurd and I refuse to give my money to any company like this.
First time using NewEgg in years. I’d say it’s 50/50 in terms of customer support/service on the person or supervisor you get. I had a guy from “Premier Phone Support” lie to me, tell me that after he hung up on me I could rate the conversation with him. Needless to say, they lost me as a customer that day save for great deals, never will buy premier again.
Intel Core i7-4790K
GTX 980 TI FTW (EVGA)
980 TI FTW (EVGA) x2 SLI (currently running only 1 this fury x of his I returned).. Honestly, may not happen until I find a reason to game @ 4k 144+ refresh/freq rate (without “down sampling” ....
I primarily play E-Sports game. If I start streaming again more actively and find a need for it there I'll pick up the pace. Otherwise, I plan to snag the new GPU’s this summer.
Windows 10 Pro
32 gigs DDR3
Gigabyte GA-Z97X-GAMING 7
Acer XF270HU 144Hz 27" Monitor (Primary Gaming Display). Few more that I have bought and returned. I am trying to find that sweet spot display, especially an ultra wide that does what I need. 144Hz @ 1440p is a must for my gaming experience, however, I need that business ultra wide @ 4k that I can stream Netflix on, etc.. There is so much technology I have yet to play around with and this is (sad to admit) my first SSD. Never going back to HDD/s and only using them for cold storage now. I got x2 490/500 gig SSD’s. I love them, just nothing else to say.
After thought and things I would have done differently:
I will only work on a full size mobo. I am 6’5 and anything smaller is just a pain for me. Out of everything the dark pro 3 (be quiet) aftermarket cpu cooler was the biggest pain in the ass to install due to my large hands.
I’ll update more after I overclock the cpu and gpu but for now I am very happy gamer in search of an ultra-wide still.
Researched displays a lot more.
Found the website that listed the MSRP + lowest price sold for and where on all items I was interested in.
Never buy another HDD with cloud storage and my 500 from my past I am good for nonprofessional use.
Bought both my cousin and I larger cases and him a larger mobo.
Stay away from anyone but companies I know and unfortunately, I don’t know any AMD. I am not a “Nvidia fanboy” and was very impressed at how the 290x ran without being overclocked. until later that night when I noticed how hot it was and checked afterburner. I was very nervous and still after 3 weeks have no response from XFX. Just ruined AMD cards for me this year.
I would have researched overclocking a lot more. I have yet to OC either mobo or cpu and if I never do I wasted some money going with the k version and their mobos.
All in all, I am happy especially for keeping the price of both workstations / gaming rigs under 2,600$ (not including displays/peripherals)
I might be back to bitch about my 980 TI FTW by EVGA but I doubt it. This thing is a monster that I never hear coming.
Time to a few days off from csgo and dota to play some games that show me the beauty of this card.
Take care all, Happy New Years..
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Hi, I have an Alienware m17x R4 that used to be my main personal ´´workstation/gaming´´ pc but I want to sell this giant laptop and buy a portable laptop because I build a powerfull desktop for my 3d modeling work (I´m an architect). I´m thinking about the Dell XPS 13 or the Asus Zenbook UX303UB but. I want a good IPS screen, a well build machine, something that can run CS:GO or casual gaming with no problem and a decent battery. Which option you think is better than the other? Or should I go with a Macbook pro 13 and install Boot Camp to have the option to boot windows 10 ? I was thinking about the surface pro 4 too but I think the specs are not the best for that price. My budget is around 1300. I just want the best lightweight option.
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Hi this is the first time making a computer. I'm looking to make a decent gaming computer but I'm not sure if I'm using the appropriate parts
My price range is around $600-800; price is the highest priority. My uses include web browsing, watching shows, and light gaming
This is what I have so far . Please comment your suggestions