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Jrjy3

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  • Posts

    192
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About Jrjy3

  • Birthday May 16, 1997

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Dallas, Texas
  • Interests
    Computer hardware and software, taekwondo, saxophone, music, camping
  • Member title
    Member

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7 4770k
  • Motherboard
    ASUS Maximus VI Gene
  • RAM
    16GB Corsair Vengeance Pro 1600 MHz
  • GPU
    EVGA GeForce GTX 780 ACX Superclocked
  • Case
    Corsair 350D
  • Storage
    1x 2TB Seagate Barracuda HDD, 1x 250GB Samsung 840 Evo SSD
  • PSU
    XFX Pro 750w Black Edition
  • Display(s)
    ASUS VG248QE and QNIX 27" IPS
  • Cooling
    Custom Watercooling Loop with GPU, CPU, and Dual 2x240 Rads
  • Keyboard
    Ducky Shine 2 with Brown Switches
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502
  • Sound
    JDS Labs O2 DAC+AMP Combo using the Sennheiser HD 598 Headphones
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro

Recent Profile Visitors

1,858 profile views
  1. Welcome to the custom built PC club! Don't be ashamed of asking questions that feel silly, everyone has to learn at some point! There is a registry key you can edit to change the default install location to the D drive, but some programs have major issues with that, so I wouldn't recommend that. For things that don't allow you to pick an install location, I like to use Link Shell Extension to easily create symbolic links. First, install the program as you normally would. After it's installed, make sure it isn't running. Then, cut and paste the installation folder from "C:\Program Files\" to "D:\Program Files\" (Might be "C:\Program Files (x86)\", in which case you should copy to "D:\Program Files (x86)"). Once Link Shell Extension is installed, right click on the folder on the D drive and click the "Pick Link Source" option. Next, go back to the original installation directory on the C drive and right click, go to "Drop As...", and click "Symbolic Link". Symbolic links are basically pointer folders, kind of like shortcuts, but not exactly. They point to a directory located somewhere else, but for the purposes of running a program, it's as if the folder is actually located on the C drive. To answer your other questions: Dragging and dropping between drives is ok as long as it isn't done with installed programs. You should use the method I described above to move programs to a different drive. You can put whatever you want on the SSD. Personally, I like to put the OS, a few of my most played games, and programs I launch often, like Photoshop, Premiere Pro, and Maya. SSDs are the most beneficial for large programs that require reading a lot of data to open, such as the things I listed above. I usually put smaller programs on the D drive because the difference in loading times for a program that's only 20MB is barely noticeable, if at all. SSDs are greatly improving over time. For the average user (and even many power users), the amount of data written to the drive is nowhere close to causing the drive to fail. Quite a few SSDs have a warranty of 5 years which means that they are more than likely to last even longer than that for average users. I personally have had my Samsung 840 Evo 240GB SSD for four years and I've had no issues. The Samsung Magician software says that I've written a total of 62.4TB to the drive, so it doesn't seem like the rewriting issue is that big of a deal. Since SSDs are getting cheaper and cheaper for larger capacities, it would be just fine to only run an SSD as long as it is big enough to hold all the files you want Think of it this way: Apple uses SSDs that are soldered directly onto the motherboard for the storage in most (if not all) of their computers now. Say what you want about Apple computers, but they are generally very reliable, even over time. SSDs are (in general) more reliable than HDDs due to the fact that there are no moving parts, so I would trust an SSD more than an HDD.
  2. I'd love the Razer Blade Stealth, there's just so much to like about that laptop. Thin and light as well as fantastic build quality and specs. On top of that, the 100% Adobe RGB coverage means that color work for animation and graphic design will be even better! No more crappy TN panel color work Nothing to not like!
  3. Everyone needs an SSD in their system for the faster boot times (and faster map loading for gamers). It's so nice to be able to log in less than 10 seconds after I turn the machine on. Additionally, I could play an entire competitive match in the amount of time I spend waiting in CS:GO for other players to load the map. Enough said.
  4. The Kova White would be awesome because of the simplicity. It's a gaming mouse with no unnecessary features that make it overpriced.
  5. I've always been interested in small form factor PCs because of their specific use cases. They make great living room PCs because they can fit on the shelf with my DVR and Blu-Ray player. Playing basic games works great, and for games that are too graphics heavy, I can just stream from my desktop.
  6. I'd love a key because I'm excited to see which direction the new battlefront games are going! I loved 1 and 2 and now I'm excited for 3!
  7. I built my loop around a year ago, so it's probably time to replace the liquid anyways. However, the only time I used the copper sulfate was when I built the loop, so it doesn't seem like it should be a problem. Either way, I'll flush it and see what happens. Thanks for the advice!
  8. So I found a potential problem in my loop, and I was wondering if any of you could offer advice. I was topping up my loop today and I noticed that the copper cap on my reservoir was discolored. I thought that it could have been some gunk or something that built up on it, but after wiping it off, it appears to be corrosion. The picture below isn't that great, but I don't have a better camera, so it's the best I can do. I'm using a CoolerMaster Glacer 240L pre-filled loop as my pump and first radiator (which is all copper) along with an additional Alphacool all copper radiator. The GPU has an EK copper waterblock, and the reservoir is an Alphacool res with copper plugs. I have a silver killcoil in my loop, and I also used some copper sulfate as an additional biocide. Because everything in my loop is copper, I didn't think I would need anti-corrosive, but should I add some, or is the stuff on the plug not corrosion? If I should add anti-corrosive, what would you recommend I use? I know anti-freeze works, but I've heard it gunks up easily. Additionally, is there anything I should do with regard to the GPU block or CPU block? Should I disassemble them to check for corrosion? (And if I should, and there is corrosion, what should I do?) I know there are a lot of questions, but I greatly appreciate anybody's help!
  9. They need to be redeemed on bandcamp: https://approachingnirvana.bandcamp.com/yum
  10. Redeem it on bandcamp: https://approachingnirvana.bandcamp.com/yum
  11. Redeem here, not iTunes: https://approachingnirvana.bandcamp.com/yum
  12. Thanks for the link. I tried redeeming in iTunes and it didn't work
  13. Are they supposed to be redeemed in iTunes?
  14. It would be awesome to get a NUC to set up as a media center PC/Steam In-home streaming PC. Thanks for the giveaway!
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