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Lamb

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About Lamb

  • Birthday October 17

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    Great White North
  • Biography
    there is a lot of cringe in this profile
  • Member title
    Mary had a little Lamb

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  1. That's the conclusion that I'm coming to as well. I think I'll try it out on an intel system with onboard graphics soon to see if his situation can be replicated.
  2. I reflashed with what should be the stock VBIOS, still no luck. I’m going to chalk this up as a strange one in a million hardware issue.
  3. Hey all, dealing with a really weird situation today. I've never seen anything like this before and can't find an explanation anywhere online. I bought an MSI GTX 980 Gaming from someone locally, who used it with an 8600k. I tried to install it in a system with a R7 2700x on a Strix B450-F board. I got a sustained white LED which corresponds to VGA error in the MB manual. The card would light up and have fan spin, but no post. I tried it with a R5 2600 and a Strix B350-F, the same story occured, and then I tried with a R5 2600 and a MSI B450i Gaming Plus AC, still no post. I thought the card was dead, then I plugged a 1050ti into the 2700x system (in the 8x slot) and kept the 980 in the 16x slot. The monitor cord stayed in the 980, and now the system will boot (Note: the first time it booted, it cycled through all of the boot LEDs twice before posting). If I take out the 1050ti, the system won't boot, everything else stays the same. GPU-z will recognize the 980, and Nvidia settings recognizes the 980 as connected to the monitor. Any ideas on why the system won't boot with the 980 installed by itself? It seems like the card is failing the motherboard checks, so the system thinks there is no working GPU, and it won't post. When another working GPU is installed, the motherboard checks are passed, and then the 980 can be used like *normal*. Thoughts?
  4. I thought the main concern was the controller, but not that knowledgeable on SSDs so could be wrong
  5. nI have a new MP33 1TB drive in my system and noticing the temperatures in HWmonitor are touching/going above the highest rated temperature (70C). I saw a peak temperature of 78C, with sustained temperatures ~70C while playing GTA V. I'm wondering if this is acceptable long term? I've read that SSDs aren't negatively impacted by high temps as they will just throttle, but if necessary I can get a heatsink for it. My system specs at the moment are as follows: Case: NR200P (TG) CPU: R5 2600 GPU: GTX 1070 FTW Board: MSI B450I Gaming Plus AC PSU: Corsair SF600 Gold Cooler: Hyper 212 BE RGB The SSD doesn't get much airflow as it is on the back of the MB of course, and little to no airflow goes behind the MB tray in the NR200 AFAIK. Suspecting this to be the cause.
  6. I bought a used ROG RX570 from someone I know and the card works great, but it seems like there are some weird habits of the fans. When the fan to the rear of the card kicks in, it gets very loud. I repasted the card and checked the fans when I had it apart, neither of the fans seemed to be bad. At first it seemed to help but recently not so much. This seems to happen unnecessarily such as when I am in MS Word or Firefox. Right now HWMonitor shows a maximum of 21% GPU usage, with current usage at 0% and temps at 34-39C. The fanspeed shows 770-850RPM although when monitoring the fanspeed, it doesn't change when the rear fan kicks up. Is there a potential software issue causing this or perhaps a bad card/fans? I currently have FanControl installed but not running, Asus GPU Tweak (running), and AMD Radeon Software (running) with latest drivers from Radeon Software. Thanks in advance for any help.
  7. Hey everyone, this year has been hectic but I'm glad to be back into PCs after a long hiatus! My last build was in 2013 which was a Haswell gaming build which turned out great, but I lost interest shortly after building it. My friends were playing games on Xbox and so was I, so it didn't make sense to have so much money tied up into a rig which wasn't being used to its full potential. So, I ended up selling the whole setup 2 years later for a good price and I put all of the money I got from that into a MacBook Pro (for school) which I have been using ever since. Over the last year or so I started getting the itch for a new system, but couldn't justify buying a whole setup for what my use case scenario was. This changed when lockdowns started happening and I was spending more time on my computer. When I found out that my university was going online for the rest of 2020, that peaked my interest even more. I managed to get a couple deals about a month ago that kickstarted this build. All prices in $CAD PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 3 2200G 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor $50.00 Motherboard ASRock B450M-HDV R4.0 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard $94.99 Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3000 CL16 Memory $20.00 Storage ADATA XPG SX8100 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $89.99 Video Card Asus Radeon RX 570 4 GB ROG STRIX Video Card $60.00 Case Cooler Master MasterBox NR400 (w/ODD) MicroATX Mid Tower Case $99.99 Power Supply EVGA BR 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply $50.00 Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $464.97 Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-06-27 20:28 EDT-0400 + Acer KG221Q @ $100 + Acer G215HL @ $40 + K70 @ $10 + Rival 3 @ $50.31 Total Setup Cost: $665.28 My brother and his friends have been PC gaming for the last couple years, and when I mentioned it to him that I was thinking about trying to make a cheap build he told me that his friend was thinking about upgrading. I was interested in getting some used parts and putting something together since the new market was so inflated at the time. He ended up selling me the CPU, graphics card, and PSU all for $160CAD, a great deal! Then my brother had his old RAM kicking around so I bought that for $20. The peripherals are also a good story. First I picked up my keyboard. It's an older model K70, the same keyboard I had when I built my first PC. I found someone selling it on FB marketplace for $15, but the picture was blurry and it didn't have any details with it besides 'keyboard'. I recognized the keyboard and sent him a message, thinking it would've been gone already since the listing was over a week old. I was surprised that he came back quickly and said come take it for $10. I did a thorough cleaning and its as good as new, I'm super pleased with this deal. There's no story behind the mouse, its a Rival 3 I bought on Amazon as I read good things about it, it was available, and it met the budget at ~$50 (overpaid looking back at prices now). The monitor shown on the left is an Acer KG221Q, a 75Hz 1ms monitor I bought used for $100. Not a crazy deal, but monitors have been scarce lately and that was the best deal I found. The monitor on the right is also an Acer, but it is a G215HL, definitely a worse monitor, but at only $40 it serves it purpose as a second display. Overall, I'm quite happy with the build. There will be a new CPU in the future as the 2200g isn't best suited in this build, but for its price I can't complain. 8GB of RAM is definitely on the lower end these days so that is on my list as well. The graphics card was loud at first, but after changing it's thermal paste, it runs cooler and quieter. I have some Arctic P14 PWM fans coming in to hopefully quiet the system a little as the stock fans are currently running off a molex adapter. Other than that, I'm content with it and it has been serving me well so far for some light gaming, schoolwork, and internet browsing. Pictures: Full Setup PC Interior
  8. I've been keeping an eye on the availability of the P14/F14s since I opened this thread, and last night the P14 PWM/PST 5 pack went in stock on Amazon for ~$47CAD. I snagged that and a buddy of mine is going to buy whatever fans I don't use in my build for his. I think this is going to be a good solution for a decent price, thanks for your insight.
  9. Sorry I'm late getting back to ya, stock fans are quite loud for my liking. I don't mind the noise at full load, but while at ambient temperatures it is kinda irritating.
  10. I was under the impression that the current draw was the most important. For example F14 PWM draw 0.11A each, so running 3 of these off of a splitter shouldn't be an issue right? I'm looking for a quieter PC because I will be using it for university for the next year or so, headphones isn't really the best solution for that. If it was only gaming then yes, but that's only a small part of this build for me.
  11. Any insight on the P vs F line of fans? Seems to be a bit more availability from the P ones, but the F seems to be more popular (maybe for good reason).
  12. Hi, I recently completed my new Ryzen build and very pleased with it besides the fan setup. I am using 3 120mm stock fans, 2 of which are plugged in via molex adapter and one plugged into a fan header. I am now looking for better fans to add. Thinking about going for 3x140mm fans, two intake in the front, and 1 exhaust in the top (Cooler Master NR400). Does this seem fine? If so, are there any top picks here that I should keep an eye out for? Most of what I'm seeing online are inflated in price/out of stock, but there are some that are still available such as the Arctic P14 PWM ($16.48CAD on Amazon). Any other recommendations in this price range would be appreciated, also going to be needing a PWM fan hub/splitter.
  13. Budget (including currency): ~$600CAD Country: Canada Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Web browsing, schoolwork, emulated games, and a few newer games Other details: Part list here: PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 3 2200G 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor $139.99 @ Newegg Canada Motherboard Asus PRIME A320M-K Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard $77.98 @ Amazon Canada Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $71.98 @ Amazon Canada Storage ADATA Ultimate SU800 512 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $84.99 @ Amazon Canada Video Card Asus Radeon RX 570 4 GB ROG STRIX Video Card $250.00 Case Corsair Carbide Series 88R MicroATX Mid Tower Case $74.98 @ Amazon Canada Power Supply EVGA BR 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply $79.99 @ Newegg Canada Wireless Network Adapter Asus PCE-AC55BT B1 PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter $43.50 @ Amazon Canada Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $823.41 Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-05-23 14:38 EDT-0400 I am buying the PSU, CPU, and graphics card off of a buddy for $160 combined so that reduces my cost a lot. Other than that, buying the RAM from another buddy for $20. Wondering if anyone has experience with the A320M-K and a stock Ryzen cooler? There doesn't seem like much clearance between the socket and the first RAM slot, and I want to make sure it would fit before buying that mobo. Also, thoughts on a sata SSD vs going with a NVMe one? There's a WD Blue one on sale right now for $100 instead of $85. Worth the extra change for my use case?
  14. Last time I’ve worked on computers has been a few years ago so I’m probably a bit rusty when it comes to troubleshooting. I’m helping my younger brother with his build and we’re running into an issue with booting up. He has a ROG Strix b350f motherboard which has leds that light up while on standby. These light up while the power supply is turned on, but then even by shorting the power switch the pc is unresponsive (no fans, no response). The power supply is a EVGA 500bq and even when using the paper clip trick i can not get the fan to spin when bridging the pins. What confuses me is how the motherboard gets power (because of the leds), but then the pc won’t boot or run the fan on the power supply. Any insight is greatly appriciated.
  15. I am going to be selling my computer today, and since yesterday I have been attempting to reinstall windows 8.1 on my computer. I have a USB drive with windows on it created successfully, and I was partially through the installation last night (all my drives are formatted) then it said there is an issue with the installation and it told me to restart. So because all my drives were formatted, I had no OS and i was given a prompt to disconnect the drives I wasn`t using to install an OS. I was left with just my USB (which I have tested on another computer and it is not corrupted or anything like that) plugged into my computer. Then I went into the BIOS and the only drives that were shown were Generic 7453mb (or whatever the capacity of the drive is). If I try to boot on to that drive, a black screen will come up with a flashing underscore kind of like a prompt to type something, but you cannot type anything. This screen willl stay like this, I left it alone to test it. Thank you so much if you can help me with this, I really need to get this ready to sell, and I`m sure nobody will buy it with no OS.
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