Box Box Box - Sim Racing Players Club [Now Hype Train Enabled!]

[brownninja97]

I expect they'll be getting help on the physics side. MachineDojo is in talks with URD on porting their assetto corsa content to Pcars, though the cars in question are payware but from my experience well worth it. So far the pcars renders of their PX1 (LMP1) cars look on par with SMS but no idea how they drive.

URD has also been drafted by Kunos to port some of their AC DLC to rfactor 2, so that should say something about the AC side of things. Unfortunately were stuck with SMS DLC every one or two months as MD&SW are the only known group talking the challenge.

Their gen 2 r8 lms looks pretty promising though. Personally can't wait to see what they do with the calla way c7 gt3 and atsv.r. No cares for the RCF gt3 because it's so unbelievably behind schedule - both in reality and digital.

On the terms of model quality and optimization URD smashes SMS. Poly count and texture usage is where is shows the most, pcars lmp cars hover around 200k-220k polys which isnt too bad but its a little high and you can tell they have used smoothing too much in some areas while their lmp cockpits have a few jaggies, urd are extremely good at modelling, seriously they are in the running for being the best in the business. sms in terms of textures need to stop using 1920x1080 or 1280x720 textures, in some places its too high and this wastes resources, simple changes such as optimizing this resolution would help with performance so much especially on consoles where their draw calls are the bottleneck. 

 

Out of what they are doing the R8 and the C7 interest me, rest can go die in a fire and seriously why no porsche considering there are none in game. 

[chaozbandit]

On the terms of model quality and optimization URD smashes SMS. Poly count and texture usage is where is shows the most, pcars lmp cars hover around 200k-220k polys which isnt too bad but its a little high and you can tell they have used smoothing too much in some areas while their lmp cockpits have a few jaggies, urd are extremely good at modelling, seriously they are in the running for being the best in the business. sms in terms of textures need to stop using 1920x1080 or 1280x720 textures, in some places its too high and this wastes resources, simple changes such as optimizing this resolution would help with performance so much especially on consoles where their draw calls are the bottleneck.

Out of what they are doing the R8 and the C7 interest me, rest can go die in a fire and seriously why no porsche considering there are none in game.

No Porsche because EA has the monopoly on that license. The license is supposedly expiring in 2016 though so who knows what DLC is on the way. Once that expires, it's fair game for dozens upon dozens of studios (unless EA snatches it up again but there must be a clause accounting for that in the draft of the contracts. At least make it shorter term so we aren't stuck with another decade of RUFs.

[brownninja97]

No Porsche because EA has the monopoly on that license. The license is supposedly expiring in 2016 though so who knows what DLC is on the way. Once that expires, it's fair game for dozens upon dozens of studios (unless EA snatches it up again but there must be a clause accounting for that in the draft of the contracts. At least make it shorter term so we aren't stuck with another decade of RUFs.

no im talking about the mod, why wouldnt they add a porsche 

[chaozbandit]

no im talking about the mod, why wouldnt they add a porsche

Same it's probably on the drawing board somewhere. These cars have been announced ages ago and nothing else has been leaked, other than possible work on the aventador.

[chaozbandit]

Sneak peak Write up to come in the morning.

 

[brownninja97]

accidentally feel asleep after the race but 6h of shanghai was bloody insane but porsche win and then they win the well everything, the manufacture title, the driver title. g drive thankfully shit themselves a minute before it ended. 

[xAcid9]

Sneak peak Write up to come in the morning.

 

-snip-

 

What is the wheel size? Pedal shifter still easily reachable?

[chaozbandit]

accidentally feel asleep after the race but 6h of shanghai was bloody insane but porsche win and then they win the well everything, the manufacture title, the driver title. g drive thankfully shit themselves a minute before it ended. 

 

I feel ya. Was exhausted after work and fell asleep 20 laps into Super GT Rd.8 @ Autopolis. This year in WEC is really just audi vs porsche, and the former have made quite a few costly mistakes thus far. Hoping next year brings more competition with the energy limit being raised to max 10 MJ, and all teams expected to move up at least 2 MJ.

 

What is the wheel size? Pedal shifter still easily reachable?

 

340mm Nardi rim; it's got a 2in concave + 1in between the paddles and the hub adapter, so with large hands I am just barely able to comfortably tap the paddles (i.e. get the tips of my fingers fully behind the paddles). Overall, they're not too intrusive and are quite out of the way if you don't need them; the edge of the rim sits right beside the shifter on a WheelStand Pro making shifting easy(ier) work, though it sits a bit farther back because of the concave. If you don't want a concaved wheel, you can get a Momo or OMP wheel that is flat faced, which would make the paddles easier to use (though this is a subjective thing). 

[MEC-777]

Sneak peak Write up to come in the morning.

 

 

Dang, that looks huge! Probably just perspective, though.  

 

I need to pull mine apart again and make a few adjustments. The motor shaft free-play fix I performed yesterday made it a little too tight, lol. Pretty easy wheel to take a part and work on though.

[WolfDeville]

I recently got a G29 wheel and I've been playing some Project CARS, Assetto Corsa and DiRT Rally and I suck at all of them

 

I uploaded some gameplay to YouTube if you guys wanna check it out and give me some tips

 

[brownninja97]

I recently got a G29 wheel and I've been playing some Project CARS, Assetto Corsa and DiRT Rally and I suck at all of them

 

I uploaded some gameplay to YouTube if you guys wanna check it out and give me some tips

 

 

Got to start somewhere. I still suck at dirt rally. Just gonna warn you while both games are realistic AC and Pcars drive very differently

[WolfDeville]

brownninja97, on 02 Nov 2015 - 7:57 PM, said:

Got to start somewhere. I still suck at dirt rally. Just gonna warn you while both games are realistic AC and Pcars drive very differently

Yeah I noticed. AC feels a bit easier if I'm honest.

[brownninja97]

Yeah I noticed. AC feels a bit easier if I'm honest.

yep thats because pcars doesnt know the meaning of downforce hence the difference of mechanical grip. im not going to go in detail about which is more realistic as that is a cesspool of a discussion

[WolfDeville]

brownninja97, on 02 Nov 2015 - 8:34 PM, said:

yep thats because pcars doesnt know the meaning of downforce hence the difference of mechanical grip. im not going to go in detail about which is more realistic as that is a cesspool of a discussion

I'd say AC is more realistic. It could just be me but in pcars you REALLY have to fight the wheel, whereas it is much smoother in AC.

[VortexS]

I recently got a G29 wheel and I've been playing some Project CARS, Assetto Corsa and DiRT Rally and I suck at all of them

 

I uploaded some gameplay to YouTube if you guys wanna check it out and give me some tips

 

 

What are your graphics settings? Looks really bland to me (could just be YouTube).

[WolfDeville]

VortexS, on 02 Nov 2015 - 10:02 PM, said:

What are your graphics settings? Looks really bland to me (could just be YouTube).

I believe I have it maxed out

[VortexS]

I believe I have it maxed out

 

Well then it's just YouTube since I have it maxed out as well and that looks much better

[WolfDeville]

VortexS, on 02 Nov 2015 - 10:12 PM, said:

Well then it's just YouTube since I have it maxed out as well and that looks much better

What exactly looks bad?

[chaozbandit]

Derek Speare Designs (DSD) – Logitech G27 Upgrade Guide

It’s finally time to post this thing! After a day of working on other stuff and taking a nap for daylight savings, I can finally post this sort of step by step guide and review of sorts! But before we begin, a few words.

 

Full disclosure: Derek Speare Designs (DSD) wanted me to cover these components so badly that they charged me full price for it, even with the terrible CAD-US exchange rates. In all seriousness, this is not a sponsored post and I put this together out of genuine curiosity. I have not talked to Derek beyond the initial order placement and follow-up fulfillment and confirmation. Overall, was it a financially sound purchase? Absolutely not, and if you too are considering upgrading your G27 to this extent, I highly recommend reconsidering saving up for either a higher-end Thrustmaster wheel or to go for a full Fanatec setup. That being said, feel free to take any of the opinions I present below for any individual component into account for future reference. DSD make a lot of custom simulation grade hardware, though mostly for the Logitech G27 platform (others are USB compatible and have excellent third-party software support). You can browse his work here: http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/

 

Without further ado, lets get started!

 

 

As you can see above, each of these items comes pre-wrapped in USPS padded envelopes with all the necessary hardware included inside. While this is tidy, it doesn’t allow for DSD to account for orders that order a full set of stuff instead of piece-wise, but I’ll get more into this later. The iFixit ProTech Toolkit is optional – I only used two bits and some of the tweezers and screwdrivers, but feel free to use any precision screwdriver bit set you have. 

 

 

Not shown above was the Leo Bodnar SLI-Pro, which I had taken delivery of last month. You can read the “review” I did of it here. Other than that, everything on the table (minus the Nardi Competition wheel) is available from DSD and are as follows: DSD Wheel Hub Adapter, DSD SLI-Pro Tab Extended, DSD G27 Mini Plate (custom made to order), DSD Tilton Style Pedal Pads, DSD 330-350mm Extended Paddles.

 

While there is nothing inherently wrong with the stock pedals (they’re excellent value for what they’re worth), these pads didn’t cost very much and I figured it’d be worth a shot to give them a try.

 

 

Above are the OEM pedals in the cleanest state they’ve been in since I got them, and to the left my iFixit Precision Screwdriver kit and a second torx-bit screwdriver for instances that require a bit more physical persuasion. These OEM pedals are actually pretty hefty in weight, made from a very smooth metal (aluminum?) with plastic inserts sitting behind. They are held in place with torx T10 bits, and can be removed with relative ease.

 

 

In case you’ve never taken your pedals apart before, each “arm” has 3 adjustable positions in regards to where you can place your pedals. While you can’t move them up or down, you can at least move them one stop either left or right to accommodate for things such as a post for a sim rig or WheelStand Pro. Depending on where you distribute the majority of your force, it could be beneficial to play around with this if you do get the DSD Tilton style pedals as they have a smaller footprint and you don’t lose energy that might be bending the OEM pedals.

 

 

A comparison between the DSD pedals versus the Logitech ones. Both use the same screws, and similar to the Logitech set, 2 of the pedals are the same profile but one is slightly more convex. As you can imagine, this is to accommodate for the accelerator arm that is set further back compared to the brake arm – although, feel free to swap these around as you see fit. The pedals are made from what feels like a delrin material and are incredibly light yet rigid. DSD makes these for the Logitech G25/G27 pedals, Fanatec Clubsport V1/V2 pedals (the V3 also comes with a set of OEM Tilton style pads), Fanatec Clubsport Elite pedals, and the Thrustmaster T500 pedals.

 

 

 The pedals installed on the G27 pedals – they sure look good if I say so myself! Below: side profile with the middle positioning on each arm and the single thicker pedal pad on the accelerator (far right).

 

 

 

The one part of this guide most of you are going to be interested in. To start off, no you won’t have to open up the rear compartment where the motors are – just the front portion where the button interface is. The tools you’ll need are the same precision bit set from above, with screwdrivers, and a hammer just in case. 

 

NOTE: You do NOT have to purchase every component shown here. At the minimum, you will need the hub adaptor and extended paddles appropriate for your wheel rim. Any wheel rim will work so long as it uses the standard 6-bolt pattern on it; doing it this way will leave you button-less (for the G27 at least) and thus you will need the mini plate as well.

 

 

First order of duty – removing the OEM wheel rim. Six Torx T25 screws later, and it can come off; do be careful as the leads for either bank of buttons will still be attached to the base. Don’t pull too hard or else you could risk damaging the headers. As you can see, I didn’t do it the smart way – instead of unscrewing those two screws in the middle, I left the PCB in and tried to wiggle the cables out. A lot of wasted effort here – don’t make the same mistake I did!

 

 

Close up on the PCB – limit switches on either side for the paddles, the headers for the wheel rim buttons on the bottom, and the stupidly dim shift LEDs at the top. Removing this PCB will give you access to the four screws holding in the two paddles behind.

 

 

Comparison between the DSD extended paddles (330-350mm) compared to the Logitech paddles on top. If at all possible, I HIGHLY recommend you save money here and try to make them yourself because that’s pretty much the impression I got from these. Laser cut from sheet aluminum, these arrived with unfiled edges that were sharp to the touch and felt much weaker than the OEM paddles (which are made from the same dense metal of the OEM pedals, and just as heavy). 

 

Also note the differences between the two: the Logitech item has both a cutout for weight and punched indents to strengthen that critical area where the paddle is most likely to bend during its life span; the paddle is also slightly curved inwards to give the user a better feel when using them to shift. The DSD has none of the above features, though I assume the bending will come with time. As for hardware, the DSD holes (far right) where they mount to the steering column are not threaded. DSD supplies self-tapping metal screws to accommodate, so be sure you have those when you get this product.

 

 

The DSD paddles installed on the G27 base. As these are quite long, it is not recommended that you use these with the OEM G27 wheel as your fingers will get caught in the middle of the shifting action; a work around would be to keep them behind the paddles at all times, but at that point why even bother swapping out the, frankly, excellent OEM paddles to begin with?

 

 

Hands down the most critical component of this whole guide – the DSD Wheel Rim Adaptor. As you can imagine, the inner set of screw holes line up with the stock screws (you re-use these) on the G27 and the outer holes are for your wheel rim; 12 holes available for how you want to align your six-hole aftermarket rim. Note the enlarged outer holes – the adaptor takes into account in-set nuts for the bolts that you use to attach the wheel to the rim but BE WARNED: depending on the width of your rim and whether or not you get the mini plate, the included hardware MAY OR MAY NOT be long enough to attach these securely to the base.

 

 

Close up of the hub adapter installed onto the Logitech G27 (also applicable to the G25). The item itself is precision cast from composite urethane and feels incredibly durable; make note of the orientation of the DSD logo; with the G27 in particular, the hub is a tad oblong and if you invert it by accident, the holes may not line up and you risk damaging the interior components. DSD also makes adaptors for the Thrustmaster T5400, T300, and TX wheels though these are quick-detach styles.

 

 

Just for fun, decided to compare the Logitech wheel against the Nardi. The 270mm G27 rim sits perfectly inside of the 340mm Nardi rim, and some! Definitely gets rid of the “toy-like” feeling of the wheel, and while you may argue that it is massive (it is), 340-350mm is the standard sizing for an actual car (though notable racing disciplines use smaller wheels for faster lock-to-lock action). 

 

 

As mentioned before, here’s what the gap looks like. With my large hands, I am just barely able to get the tips of my fingers across that gap in a comfortable enough way that I can “hook” onto them and pull without much effort. The gap is an estimated 3in (2in concave on the Nardi + 1in from the paddles to the hub). It’s quite manageable as it sits – the paddles do provide quite a bit of flex so I may do some work on them in the long run. 

 

Also, if you aren’t a fan of the mild concave on the Nardi you can also source a flat OMP, Sparco, Momo wheel, etc. to close the gap and regain the feel of the OEM set up. I was actually looking for an OMP 320 or Targa at one point, but then I came across the suede Nardi and just had to have it. Plus, it screams JDM and is in a lot of top level competition vehicles, so why not!?

 

 

NOTE: As I mentioned before, the screws (in my case) were not long enough to bite into the nuts in the adapter because of the cumulative depth resulting from both the wheel and the mini plate. Will be sourcing longer ones within the week and will post updated pics asap.

 

The eagle-eyed reader might have noticed this already but I never actually mounted the SLI-PRO tab… yet. Two problems with this: one, I don’t have the screws required to mount the SLI-PRO to the tab itself, so it is currently still in the old cardboard holder or held in with painters tape; second, I haven’t gotten around to drilling into the G27 base itself to mount the tab to the base. More on the second point, I had originally planned on getting the regular sized tabs but due to miscommunication on my part accidentally got the extended version; not a bad thing now since it opens up more mounting options, but worse comes to worse I may just dremmel off the ends for a cleaner look. Adhesive wise, I’m thinking industrial strength Velcro. But enough of the boring stuff, onto the…

 

 

Final Thoughts

While the exercise of modding the rim was fun, I honestly can’t say it’s worth it. If you do insist on getting an aftermarket rim, you’re better off shopping for other options for certain components. I now understand why the chillocoke adaptors are so popular in the community, though it could be because they are made from aluminum (CC also provides paddle extensions). However, I really can’t recommend anyone else but DSD when it comes to the button mini plate or the pedals; had it not been for me wanting a complete DSD order, I would have definitely changed out everything else. Who knows, I may even switch some out in the future – I’m just a tad salty that, at our exchange rate, I blew enough money to buy second hand clubsport pedals.

 

However, aside from the actual components in the order, the fulfillment process was relatively pain-free. The initial order process is extremely easy, as the online cart on the DSD is a matter of a few buttons and drop down menus. Once the order is sent, Derek sends you a copy of the invoice and emails you again once it ships. Shipping time is at least five business days, however if you have an aftermarket rim like I do (Nardi Competition) that isn't in his system, he will have to make a new template for your mini-plate, which pushes the fulfillment date to 10-15 business days. Otherwise, he'll use an existing template or find one that is similar).

 

Anyways, to summarize: 

DSD Wheel Hub Adapter: If it wasn’t for me wanting to get a full DSD set, this is one area where I would have looked elsewhere; that being said, for what it’s worth, the hub adapter is designed pretty well for the job it needs to do. While the material does feel a tad cheap (it’s could almost be 3D printed), the overall footprint is as minimalistic as possible while giving you some degree of freedom with how you mount your rim. If you need alternatives to this style of adapter, have a look at chillicoke (aluminm) and simracinghardware (acetate) for similar products, though both are more expensive. (8/10)

 

DSD Paddle Extensions: As you can imagine, I’m not a huge fan of these; in fact, they look like the kind of thing that came out of my high school robotics shop with the way the aluminum is cut. That being said, it does fulfill the task of shifting up and down but at a tremendous cost; with the lack of strengthening and curving found on the Logitech paddles, the DSD item is essentially a downgrade. However, if you do wish to use paddles with your aftermarket rim, you don’t have much of a choice (alternatively if you have access to a 3D printer, that would be the way to go). Lastly, the online product photos showed black anodized paddles, so there’s that. (5/10)

 

DSD Mini Plate (G27): Probably one of the budget items that DSD is most well-known for, and a must for any G27 owner that has an aftermarket rim installed (regardless of which hub adapter you go with). As you saw above, this is a plug-and-play item whereby all you have to do to regain button functionality is to plug the two cables into their respective headers. The buttons themselves have a very tactile click and short travel but be weary: they are physically remapped (from top to bottom) as B3, B2, B1 compared to B1, B2, B3 on the stock wheel. Would have gotten a perfect score if the wiring on the back side was tidier I do wish the buttons were further out, but that’s mostly because of my concave rim. (9/10)

 

DSD Tilton-Style Pedals: I LOVE the feel of these things. They feel durable enough to take several newtons of force without cracking and the concave shape allows you to direct that energy at a single point – useful for if you use driving shoes with hard soles. Due to the small footprint, your feet never overlap and thus you won’t accidentally be hitting two pedals at once because your foot wasn’t centered on the one. I can definitely see why racing pedals are designed with this kind of plating, and if Fanatec are including similar pads on their Clubsport V3 pedals, then it must be common knowledge in the industry. It’s extremely easy to do the swap and I HIGHLY recommend you get these. (9/10)

 

DSD SLI-PRO Tab (Fanatec Extended): While this does work well on a Fanatec base, there is no mounting option for the G27 across the board. This means you will have to either drill into your base or go dow the double-sided tape or Velcro route, neither of which provides a secure enough bond to keep it from tilting backwards or falling off completely. For what it is, this is the only SLI companion device I’ve seen and it is cut with stunningly precise detail. Again, be weary that you will need additional screws (4) to attach the SLI-PRO (only the Leo Bodnar unit is compatible) to the tab itself; I won’t be addressing the side extensions as I will probably be cutting those off in the near future. (7/10)

 

Overall: 38/50 (76% satisfaction)

Was it fun? Yes. Super fun? Probably not.

 

 

So if you enjoyed reading my wall of text… many thanks! I hope to do more of these in the future, that’s for sure. May or may not be doing a Fanatec product next.

 

Also... it appears spoilers are broken... oops. Fixed!

[VortexS]

What exactly looks bad?

 

Compared to when I play it it seems to lack colors and depth, like I'm watching it on a really old and bad TN panel.

[VortexS]

Snip snap

 

Yeah you might want to try and fix those spoilers, at least put the images individually in spoilers

[chaozbandit]

Yeah you might want to try and fix those spoilers, at least put the images individually in spoilers

 

Fixed; copy pasta from Word is always a pain if you use tags.

[chaozbandit]

I'm jealous of all you Dirt Rally owners... Modern Masters dropped today and there's an STI wagon in it!!!

 

 

Patiently waiting for this game to go on sale. Not that theres a lack of content to keep me entertained between now and NFS 2015 when it drops for the PC in 2016.

[MEC-777]

 

Derek Speare Designs (DSD) – Logitech G27 Upgrade Guide

 

[wall - O - text]

 

So if you enjoyed reading my wall of text… many thanks! I hope to do more of these in the future, that’s for sure. May or may not be doing a Fanatec product next.

 

Awesome write up! Tons of detail in your overview. Great job.  

 

Only one thing you forgot to include; your thoughts on how it is to use the new upgrades in-game.  

 

How does it compare to the stock wheel? Does it take some getting used to with the extra diameter? Does it somewhat reduce FFB strength due to the reduced leverage (torque) of the motors acting on your input? 

 

How about the button placement on the wheel? One thing I like about the stock G27 wheel is that the buttons on the wheel are very close to the grip and easy to reach with your thumbs (like for holding the KERS button while keeping your hand fully on the wheel, for example). 

 

I'm jealous of all you Dirt Rally owners... Modern Masters dropped today and there's an STI wagon in it!!!

 

Patiently waiting for this game to go on sale. Not that theres a lack of content to keep me entertained between now and NFS 2015 when it drops for the PC in 2016.

 

If only the game would run properly. I tried doing a stage last night to test me wheel after "fixing" it again but the game would CTD every time it loaded the stage. Message in the corner would pop up saying "a driver issue caused the game to crash, bla bla bla." Really sucks because I don't want to switch to 15.10 (on 15.9.1 right now), when the new Omega driver is just about to drop... I have quite a few custom game profiles in CCC (because some games don't like crossfire) and I loose those profiles every time I install new drivers. Needless to say, the game still has some issues and could be a little more optimized (should run better than it does). Been wanting to try the flying fin stages they recently added, will try it again tonight.  

[chaozbandit]

Awesome write up! Tons of detail in your overview. Great job.

 

Only one thing you forgot to include; your thoughts on how it is to use the new upgrades in-game.

 

How does it compare to the stock wheel? Does it take some getting used to with the extra diameter? Does it somewhat reduce FFB strength due to the reduced leverage (torque) of the motors acting on your input? 

 

How about the button placement on the wheel? One thing I like about the stock G27 wheel is that the buttons on the wheel are very close to the grip and easy to reach with your thumbs (like for holding the KERS button while keeping your hand fully on the wheel, for example). 

 

 

If only the game would run properly. I tried doing a stage last night to test me wheel after "fixing" it again but the game would CTD every time it loaded the stage. Message in the corner would pop up saying "a driver issue caused the game to crash, bla bla bla." Really sucks because I don't want to switch to 15.10 (on 15.9.1 right now), when the new Omega driver is just about to drop... I have quite a few custom game profiles in CCC (because some games don't like crossfire) and I loose those profiles every time I install new drivers. Needless to say, the game still has some issues and could be a little more optimized (should run better than it does). Been wanting to try the flying fin stages they recently added, will try it again tonight.  

 

 

Hehe walls of text are my specialty. I mentioned (I think) that the screws that Derek supplied weren't long enough to actually go through both the Nardi and the mini plate, so I couldn't actually mount it to the G27 yet. Was actually just about to head out and try to source some longer counter-sunk screws, but will definitely post a follow up when I get some experience with it.

 

As for the larger rim itself - no, it doesnt take that long to adjust to the size because it is the same diameter as the wheel in any road car, so to use it feels almost natural in a sense. At the same time, the increased diameter does dilute the feedback through the wheel but this is something that can be adjusted in-game (will be investigating this later on because FFB is a matter of personal preference). During the mock up, I did play around with trying to reach the buttons. Verdict thus far is that they are much harder to reach compared to the stock G27 wheel, often requiring one hand off the wheel, but at the same time I believe it to be a fault of the concave nature of the Nardi. With a flat OMP wheel, for example, you could at least still keep the top half of your fingers on the wheel, whereas with the Nardi I have to take my hand off and reach behind the rim to hit each button (easiest with the thumb).

 

One important thing to look out for in a wheel is the material it is wrapped in - the suede on the Nardi is pretty grippy which means you can do more fine adjustments, during transitions for example. My thoughts are all over the place atm, but I'll probably give a clearer opinion in the follow-up.

 

And yeah, I heard a lot of people with DiRT Rally experiencing issues launching the game Hopefully they clear it up soon, because the new content does seem like a lot of fun to play. I'd personally probably wait until Omega drops.