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Wiping a Hard Drive... Would DBAN work?

ShadowDeity
Go to solution Solved by Captain_WD,

~snip~

 

Hey there ShadowDiety,
 
Any program taht fills the drive with zeros should do the trick. I could recommend using WD Data Lifeguard Diagnostic tool: http://products.wdc.com/support/kb.ashx?id=Z2jW1M
The full "writing zeros" process takes a lot of time but completely wipes the whole drive. :) 
 
Feel free to ask if you happen to have any questions 
 
Captain_WD.

So I'm in the process backing up important files before I try to wipe my hard drive and do a clean install of Windows 10. (Just want to start everything fresh... Don't ask.)

But I have many torrented programs, and if I were to run into a situation with law enforcement, I'd probably be screwed.

 

So,

Would DBAN work by deleting all hidden files so that even law enforcement couldn't find them? :mellow:

 

And I know,

I'm a bit paranoid.  :huh:

 

Thanks!

// Floatplane Pilot //

Main Rig:  Motherboard: ASUS H270 - PLUS - CSM | RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR4 16GB (2x8GB) | Case: Corsair Carbide Series SPEC - 02 | SSD: ADATA SU800 128GB HDD: WD 1TB Hard Drive | PSU: Corsair CX 550M | CPU: Intel Core i7-7700 Cooling: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO | GPU: ASUS GeForce GTX 1070 | Keyboard: Logitech G710+ Mechanical | Mouse: Razer Naga 2014 | Sound: Corsair VOID RGB / USB Headset | OS: Windows 10

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do not use dban

 

it's not the most secure way to delete files

 

use this instead:

 

http://cmrr.ucsd.edu/people/Hughes/secure-erase.html

 

initiating the secure erase command inherit to all newer hdd's is the best way to do this kind of shit

 

edit:

 

it's also MUCH faster!

 

edit:

 

no, you're far from paranoid. everyone should be informed of this tool

BigDay

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harddrivehammer.jpg

then toss it into a volcano! 

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Alright so, the only way to securely delete these files is to destroy my hard drive completely and buy a new one?  Greeeeat.

No other way to completely overwrite it so no program can ever find them?

 

Yes.....Again, I'm a tad paranoid.

// Floatplane Pilot //

Main Rig:  Motherboard: ASUS H270 - PLUS - CSM | RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR4 16GB (2x8GB) | Case: Corsair Carbide Series SPEC - 02 | SSD: ADATA SU800 128GB HDD: WD 1TB Hard Drive | PSU: Corsair CX 550M | CPU: Intel Core i7-7700 Cooling: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO | GPU: ASUS GeForce GTX 1070 | Keyboard: Logitech G710+ Mechanical | Mouse: Razer Naga 2014 | Sound: Corsair VOID RGB / USB Headset | OS: Windows 10

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Alright so, the only way to securely delete these files is to destroy my hard drive completely and buy a new one?  Greeeeat.

No other way to completely overwrite it so no program can ever find them?

 

Yes.....Again, I'm a tad paranoid.

 

I just told you.

 

use secure erase.

 

no one will find it after you do that

 

they've done research. science bro

BigDay

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I just told you.

 

use secure erase.

 

no one will find it after you do that

 

they've done research. science bro

Okay thanks, I'll try it out.

// Floatplane Pilot //

Main Rig:  Motherboard: ASUS H270 - PLUS - CSM | RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR4 16GB (2x8GB) | Case: Corsair Carbide Series SPEC - 02 | SSD: ADATA SU800 128GB HDD: WD 1TB Hard Drive | PSU: Corsair CX 550M | CPU: Intel Core i7-7700 Cooling: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO | GPU: ASUS GeForce GTX 1070 | Keyboard: Logitech G710+ Mechanical | Mouse: Razer Naga 2014 | Sound: Corsair VOID RGB / USB Headset | OS: Windows 10

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So I'm in the process backing up important files before I try to wipe my hard drive and do a clean install of Windows 10. (Just want to start everything fresh... Don't ask.)

But I have many torrented programs, and if I were to run into a situation with law enforcement, I'd probably be screwed.

 

So,

Would DBAN work by deleting all hidden files so that even law enforcement couldn't find them? :mellow:

 

And I know,

I'm a bit paranoid.  :huh:

 

Thanks!

Using DBAN is totally fine to securely erase your HDD - the most important factor is simply how thorough you want to be.

http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/15817/wipe-delete-and-securely-destroy-your-hard-drives-data-the-easy-way/

 

To prevent the data from being recoverable, you'll want to use the advanced options, and use a more thorough method (Quick Erase does a single write pass I believe). Ideally you'd want to do 3+ passes.

 

However, even the most secure erasing method that leaves the HDD still operational is not impervious. A cleanroom HDD recovery lab could still potentially recover information on any HDD that has been erased in any manner, so long as the HDD still functions.

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Using DBAN is totally fine to securely erase your HDD - the most important factor is simply how thorough you want to be.

http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/15817/wipe-delete-and-securely-destroy-your-hard-drives-data-the-easy-way/

 

To prevent the data from being recoverable, you'll want to use the advanced options, and use a more thorough method (Quick Erase does a single write pass I believe). Ideally you'd want to do 3+ passes.

 

However, even the most secure erasing method that leaves the HDD still operational is not impervious. A cleanroom HDD recovery lab could still potentially recover information on any HDD that has been erased in any manner, so long as the HDD still functions.

 

sorry. wrong.

 

secure erase is currently the most secure way and the most efficient

 

takes no time at all

 

dban sucks. it's for 15 year olds

BigDay

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Just an FYI law enforcement in Canada doesn't care about personal use of torrented programs. Its not illegal in canada to download them its illegal to seed them though. As long as you were not using them for corporate use you would be fine.

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Just an FYI law enforcement in Canada doesn't care about personal use of torrented programs. Its not illegal in canada to download them its illegal to seed them though. As long as you were not using them for corporate use you would be fine.

I didn't know that... Thanks.

 

But I still want to start fresh. 

 

SO I need a third opinion now.  DBAN or Secure Erase.  Secure Erase looks pretty good but is DBAN completely thorough?

// Floatplane Pilot //

Main Rig:  Motherboard: ASUS H270 - PLUS - CSM | RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR4 16GB (2x8GB) | Case: Corsair Carbide Series SPEC - 02 | SSD: ADATA SU800 128GB HDD: WD 1TB Hard Drive | PSU: Corsair CX 550M | CPU: Intel Core i7-7700 Cooling: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO | GPU: ASUS GeForce GTX 1070 | Keyboard: Logitech G710+ Mechanical | Mouse: Razer Naga 2014 | Sound: Corsair VOID RGB / USB Headset | OS: Windows 10

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I didn't know that... Thanks.

 

But I still want to start fresh. 

 

SO I need a third opinion now.  DBAN or Secure Erase.  Secure Erase looks pretty good but is DBAN completely thorough?

You could always use something like CCleaner or I usually use superFDisk(runs outside the OS). But honestly as soon as you reinstall and start using windows again those sectors will be overwritten and the data would probably end up as non-recoverable. I wouldn't worry too much about it.

Windows 10 likes to spy on you. Protect your Data! Run GNU/Linux!
That One Privacy Guy's VPN Comparison Chart.

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|ARCH LINUX| |CPU i5 4690k @ 4.7GHz| |GPU: Asus Strix 390x| |Mobo: Asus Sabertooth Z97 Mk 2| |RAM: Corsair Veangence Pro 16gb (2x8gb) @2133mhz| |CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i| |PSU: 750w EVGA Supernova 80+ Gold| |Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX(Silver)| |K/B: Pok3r w/ Cherry MX Blues|

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|Samsung 250GB 840 EVO: Arch Linux installation.| |Seagate Barracuda 2TB: Mostly Games and stuff related to that. Music and most Media as well.| |Seagate NAS 4TB: Anime and Anime Art-Whoring.| |Seagate 1TB 2.5" SSHD: Arch install on my Thinkpad X220.| |Samsung OEM Lenovo SSD: Windows 8.1 cause I need to play JRPGs some how.|

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|Cans: Sennheiser HD 558(Modded)| |Earbuds: Shure SE215| I'm working on expanding this.

 

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sorry. wrong.

 

secure erase is currently the most secure way and the most efficient

 

takes no time at all

 

dban sucks. it's for 15 year olds

Secure Erase might be quite good - I'm not debating that. But dban does not "suck". Your comment - it being for "15 year olds" - seems quite ignorant.

 

Not to mention that as good as Secure Erase is, it still isn't perfect. Even in the Q&A doc on the very site you linked, do they note that some fragments of data can still exist - which while extremely difficult to recover, can still piece together data - especially if the drive is disassembled in a clean room and manually examined with data recovery tools.

 

The only perfect data erasure method is to literally shred the disk - which some companies and organizations do in fact do. I'd imagine most government bodies that deal with sensitive data shred the disks after performing one or another erasure. Some even use machines that first erase the disk using extremely powerful electromagnets, and then shred them, all in one.

 

But sure, for the OP's purposes, both dban and Secure Erase would probably serve him just fine.

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Okay, now what about Windows 10's "Fully clean the disc" feature that wipes your drive and reinstalls the OS?

And after using DBAN or Secure Erase, can you still use the drive? I plan to reinstall Windows 10 and start fresh.

// Floatplane Pilot //

Main Rig:  Motherboard: ASUS H270 - PLUS - CSM | RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR4 16GB (2x8GB) | Case: Corsair Carbide Series SPEC - 02 | SSD: ADATA SU800 128GB HDD: WD 1TB Hard Drive | PSU: Corsair CX 550M | CPU: Intel Core i7-7700 Cooling: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO | GPU: ASUS GeForce GTX 1070 | Keyboard: Logitech G710+ Mechanical | Mouse: Razer Naga 2014 | Sound: Corsair VOID RGB / USB Headset | OS: Windows 10

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Okay, now what about Windows 10's "Fully clean the disc" feature that wipes your drive and reinstalls the OS?

And after using DBAN or Secure Erase, can you still use the drive? I plan to reinstall Windows 10 and start fresh.

Yep the drive is still fully useable after erasing it.

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~snip~

 

Hey there ShadowDiety,
 
Any program taht fills the drive with zeros should do the trick. I could recommend using WD Data Lifeguard Diagnostic tool: http://products.wdc.com/support/kb.ashx?id=Z2jW1M
The full "writing zeros" process takes a lot of time but completely wipes the whole drive. :) 
 
Feel free to ask if you happen to have any questions 
 
Captain_WD.

If this helped you, like and choose it as best answer - you might help someone else with the same issue. ^_^
WDC Representative, http://www.wdc.com/ 

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Hey there ShadowDiety,

Any program taht fills the drive with zeros should do the trick. I could recommend using WD Data Lifeguard Diagnostic tool: http://products.wdc.com/support/kb.ashx?id=Z2jW1M

The full "writing zeros" process takes a lot of time but completely wipes the whole drive. :)

Feel free to ask if you happen to have any questions

Captain_WD.

Wow this seems like the most trustful to me. Especially considering it is a WD drive.

I'll use this! Thanks! :)

// Floatplane Pilot //

Main Rig:  Motherboard: ASUS H270 - PLUS - CSM | RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR4 16GB (2x8GB) | Case: Corsair Carbide Series SPEC - 02 | SSD: ADATA SU800 128GB HDD: WD 1TB Hard Drive | PSU: Corsair CX 550M | CPU: Intel Core i7-7700 Cooling: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO | GPU: ASUS GeForce GTX 1070 | Keyboard: Logitech G710+ Mechanical | Mouse: Razer Naga 2014 | Sound: Corsair VOID RGB / USB Headset | OS: Windows 10

Laptop:   Razer Blade Stealth 2016

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Hey there ShadowDiety,
 
Any program taht fills the drive with zeros should do the trick. I could recommend using WD Data Lifeguard Diagnostic tool: http://products.wdc.com/support/kb.ashx?id=Z2jW1M
The full "writing zeros" process takes a lot of time but completely wipes the whole drive. :)
 
Feel free to ask if you happen to have any questions 
 
Captain_WD.

 

So apparantly with this program, I can't write zeros to my Windows drive?  Is there a way around this?

// Floatplane Pilot //

Main Rig:  Motherboard: ASUS H270 - PLUS - CSM | RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR4 16GB (2x8GB) | Case: Corsair Carbide Series SPEC - 02 | SSD: ADATA SU800 128GB HDD: WD 1TB Hard Drive | PSU: Corsair CX 550M | CPU: Intel Core i7-7700 Cooling: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO | GPU: ASUS GeForce GTX 1070 | Keyboard: Logitech G710+ Mechanical | Mouse: Razer Naga 2014 | Sound: Corsair VOID RGB / USB Headset | OS: Windows 10

Laptop:   Razer Blade Stealth 2016

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So apparantly with this program, I can't write zeros to my Windows drive?  Is there a way around this?

Oh, you either need to use a Bootable CD, or plug the HDD into another computer. You can't wipe a HDD that you're actively using.

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Oh, you either need to use a Bootable CD, or plug the HDD into another computer. You can't wipe a HDD that you're actively using.

I downloaded Windows 10 onto a new 16GB USB using Windows Media Creation Tool off their website (for a new install).

 

Would this be considered bootable even though it's not yet through the activation process?

// Floatplane Pilot //

Main Rig:  Motherboard: ASUS H270 - PLUS - CSM | RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR4 16GB (2x8GB) | Case: Corsair Carbide Series SPEC - 02 | SSD: ADATA SU800 128GB HDD: WD 1TB Hard Drive | PSU: Corsair CX 550M | CPU: Intel Core i7-7700 Cooling: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO | GPU: ASUS GeForce GTX 1070 | Keyboard: Logitech G710+ Mechanical | Mouse: Razer Naga 2014 | Sound: Corsair VOID RGB / USB Headset | OS: Windows 10

Laptop:   Razer Blade Stealth 2016

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I downloaded Windows 10 onto a new 16GB USB using Windows Media Creation Tool off their website (for a new install).

 

Would this be considered bootable even though it's not yet through the activation process?

No - in that case, it's a bootable Installer, not a bootable "Live" OS.

 

WD Lifeguard Diagnostics Tool has a bootable USB/CD version though. There's also "Ultimate Boot CD", which includes dban, among other HDD erasing utilities (And might actually include WD Lifeguard as well).

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No - in that case, it's a bootable Installer, not a bootable "Live" OS.

 

WD Lifeguard Diagnostics Tool has a bootable USB/CD version though. There's also "Ultimate Boot CD", which includes dban, among other HDD erasing utilities (And might actually include WD Lifeguard as well).

Could you link me to a tool for a bootable live OS please then?

 

I'm so confused at this point, lol.

// Floatplane Pilot //

Main Rig:  Motherboard: ASUS H270 - PLUS - CSM | RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR4 16GB (2x8GB) | Case: Corsair Carbide Series SPEC - 02 | SSD: ADATA SU800 128GB HDD: WD 1TB Hard Drive | PSU: Corsair CX 550M | CPU: Intel Core i7-7700 Cooling: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO | GPU: ASUS GeForce GTX 1070 | Keyboard: Logitech G710+ Mechanical | Mouse: Razer Naga 2014 | Sound: Corsair VOID RGB / USB Headset | OS: Windows 10

Laptop:   Razer Blade Stealth 2016

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Could you link me to a tool for a bootable live OS please then?

 

I'm so confused at this point, lol.

http://support.wdc.com/product/download.asp?groupid=608&sid=2〈=en

 

That page has instructions on how to create a Bootable USB w/ WD Lifeguard on it.

 

Alternative: Create Universal Boot CD USB Tool

http://www.pendrivelinux.com/install-and-boot-ultimate-boot-cd-ubcd-from-a-usb-device/

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So apparantly with this program, I can't write zeros to my Windows drive?  Is there a way around this?

 

Filling a drive with zeros that contains the OS is very hard to do because you will delete the OS and there's nothing to run the software that does this. You can boot another OS and run the program from it or simply take the drive out and connect it to another computer and do this from there. :) This should be the safest and easiest option. :)
 
Captain_WD.

If this helped you, like and choose it as best answer - you might help someone else with the same issue. ^_^
WDC Representative, http://www.wdc.com/ 

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