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1 rad 2 rad 3 rad or more.

how many should i have, 
will be using the node 804, here is a link.
http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/node-series/node-804


im just wondering, like, if im going to be cooling the cpu and 1 gtx titan x hydro copper ( http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=12G-P4-2999-KR ) but will buy another down the road,
so essentially 3 blocks to cool, how many rads should i use in this case...no pun intended.

 

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i would get at least 480mm of radiators (in length of course)

 

there is a formula: add the number of CPUs and GPUs, add one, and multiply by 120

thats the least amount of length you will need

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so it doesn't need to be 1 long rad, but that number can be broken down into multiple rads ?

water cooling rads are confusing as all heck. was researching all last night and i still feel useless in this department.

so how do i break up 480mm worth of rads in this case... any clue ?

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so it doesn't need to be 1 long rad, but that number can be broken down into multiple rads ?

water cooling rads are confusing as all heck. was researching all last night and i still feel useless in this department.

so how do i break up 480mm worth of rads in this case... any clue ?

well a single 480mm rad is pretty much the same thing as 4x120mm rad

mix and match all you want (even switch between 120mm and 140mm)

the more real estate the radiators have the better the cooling performance will be

just buy ones that will fit in your case

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okay cool, but no less than the 480mm amount correct ?
also if i were to add all these rads do i need some kind of super pump to move all the water? or will a normal pump work just fine.

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okay cool, but no less than the 480mm amount correct ?

also if i were to add all these rads do i need some kind of super pump to move all the water? or will a normal pump work just fine.

get at least a ddc pump

maybe a d5

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hmmm well, on the fractal page you can see the water cooling compatibility, thus:

"Water cooling compatibility

  • Front (right chamber) - 240 mm radiator configurations up to 60 mm thick (with fans) and 278 mm tall are allowed.
  • Front (left chamber) - 240 mm radiator configurations up to 60 mm thick (with fans) and 278 mm tall are allowed. Using a radiator in this position prevents the use of a fan in the top position just next to it.
  • Top (right chamber) - 240/280 mm radiators up to 130mm thick (with fans) may be fitted if the HDD drive bays are taken out or placed elsewhere. No limitation to thickness.
  • Top (left chamber) - 240 mm radiator configurations up to 130 mm thick (with fans) will fit. Radiators in this position limits the height of memory modules to 48 mm tall.

*Maximum radiator configuration: 1x240mm,1x280mm and 2x120mm radiators simultaneously."

 

- also, the maximum length gpu is up to 320mm. Now if this is up to the edge of the front fans then with a Hydro copper (~270mm) you'll have 5cm to play with. So it seems then that mounting your radiators on the roof of both chambers would be a better option.

 

i.e. two 240 rads in total. Probably less than 40mm thick in the front chamber to avoid clearance issues with the motherboard and to avoid blocking the view of the motherboard from the window, don't forget you need to add 20mm for fans, would probably only do push or pull not push/pull on this side.

 

In the rear chamber you could grab a 60mm thick 240 rad, I don't see any cable management issues and this chamber isn't visible, you could do push/pull here. The thicker the rad the better, also you will be able to mount one of those HDD racks on the floor of the rear chamber next to the PSU if you were planning on using a HDD. Have a look at the bottom half of page two of this review for some pics --> [http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2014/09/17/fractal-design-node-804-review/2]

 

For a pump, considering this is such a small case  then maybe a combo unit like the EK XRES 140 D5 PWM [1500 Litres/Hour, more than enough]. You'll have to check if this will fit but it could go in the front chamber to the right of the mobo, mounted to the back panel or onto a fan with one of these [https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-uni-pump-holder-120mm-fan] I think aquatuning have them, not sure where you are. You may have to get the 100 version as the 140s total height is 193mm, but the 140 should fit, and hide all the cables behind it.

 

If your still confused about radiator size etc just remember they are offered in different lengths and thicknesses which you will have to look in the product details for, there are also different series [for EK there is PE, XE, CE, WE...urgh!] these usually indicate the thickness, but also they have differing FPI [Fins per inch, which indicates basically the density of the radiator]. Check out this video from the 1:30 min mark for more help [--> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HzRdutIq-VE].

 

For fans, you should grab some high static pressure ones, like these new EK Vardar F4 120s, or maybe the Fractal Venturi HPs. [EK F4 review --> http://thermalbench.com/2015/06/29/ek-vardar-f4-120er-120mm-fan/]

 

Also mebe smack some magnetic dust filters to the fan ports on the outside of the rear of the case to stop dustification.

 

Anyhow, hope that helps.

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so let me run some stuff by you,

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-dbay-d5-vario-incl-pump is this better than a ddc pump, or is ddc better ??

and 2 of these high pressure fans per rad correct ?
 http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608053&cm_re=NF-S12A-_-35-608-053-_-Product


and a few of these in the front of the case for airflow correct ?
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608049&cm_re=NF-S12A-_-35-608-049-_-Product

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also, can you guys take a look at this dudes setup,
the case, mobo and dual gpu this guy has is the same setup im going for, now the amount of rads he has, is this over kill or will my components be super chilly ? or normal ?
also he modded some holes to fit the rads, will this be complicated ?
and hes using darkside rads, would going ek be better.. or ek might not fit ?

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so let me run some stuff by you,

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-dbay-d5-vario-incl-pump is this better than a ddc pump, or is ddc better ??

and 2 of these high pressure fans per rad correct ?

 http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608053&cm_re=NF-S12A-_-35-608-053-_-Product

and a few of these in the front of the case for airflow correct ?

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608049&cm_re=NF-S12A-_-35-608-049-_-Product

This is what jayztwocents uses

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xres-100-d5-pwm-incl-pump.html

This one is recomended many times by Linus

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2128/ex-pmp-27/Swiftech_MCP655-B_12v_Water_Pump_w_38_Conversion_Kit_317_GPH.html

 

The fans are...excellent, if you got the money, pretty much best fans on the market, altho if you got more than enough rad surface you can use lower RPM fans, the NF-P15 redux are excellent, gentle typhoons, EK Vardars, Fractal design Venturis, silverstone air penetrators, noiseblockers, lots of very high quality quiet high SP fans out there

For what i've heard, D5 pumps are the best, both i linked are D5 and maybe the reservoir/pump combo thing may fit your needs, if not, the swiftech one is still the gold standard

I would put a 280mm rad on the top and a thick low fin density 240 on the front, so you can get airflow into the case. Maybe you can benefit from  push/pull, and i would put either AP123s or Noctua NF-F12 pulling air into the case through the rad. I like this particular fans because they have channeled airflow, which is useful in restricted enviroments (AKA rads)

System

  • CPU
    I7-4790K @ 4,7GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus MAXIMUS Formula VI
  • RAM
    Kingston HyperX FURY 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 1866MHz
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X
  • Case
    Cooler Master Cosmos SE
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 EVO 500GB+WD Green 3TB
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 850G2 80PLUS Gold Certified
  • Display(s)
    ASUS PB277Q 27" WQHD 2560x1440 75Hz 1ms
  • Cooling
    Corsair H105 with AP121s and Phanteks fans
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G610 Orion
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also, can you guys take a look at this dudes setup,

the case, mobo and dual gpu this guy has is the same setup im going for, now the amount of rads he has, is this over kill or will my components be super chilly ? or normal ?

also he modded some holes to fit the rads, will this be complicated ?

and hes using darkside rads, would going ek be better.. or ek might not fit ?

alphacool is the safest bet when it comes to rads, EK or swiftech are totally fine, it's just, it's like buying an AIO from corsair, many brands make good AIOs but corsair has the biggest sales volume, therefore they need to keep quality up.

System

  • CPU
    I7-4790K @ 4,7GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus MAXIMUS Formula VI
  • RAM
    Kingston HyperX FURY 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 1866MHz
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X
  • Case
    Cooler Master Cosmos SE
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 EVO 500GB+WD Green 3TB
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 850G2 80PLUS Gold Certified
  • Display(s)
    ASUS PB277Q 27" WQHD 2560x1440 75Hz 1ms
  • Cooling
    Corsair H105 with AP121s and Phanteks fans
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G610 Orion
  • Mouse
    E-3lue E-Blue Mazer II 2500 DPI Blue LED 2.4GHz Wireless Optical Gaming Mouse
  • Sound
    Audio-Technica ATH-M20x
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
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ok,

 

1. Thats what I'm using in my build now haha. I don't think the 804 has a drive bay though which is where that unit slots in, I suppose you could mod the front of the case to have it showing? The pump that is in the DBAY is the Laing D5 with an EK sticker on it. The D5 comes in vario [there is a little notch on the back that you adjust to range the flow rate up to 1500 L/h] and in a PWM version that you plug into your motherboard or into a fan controller like the Corsair Commander Mini, then using your motherboard's included software or the software with the fan controller you can adjust the speed of the pump.

 

The DDC is a smaller version of the D5, its square and there are some differences between them but just think of them as differently shaped pumps. The most important thing is the flowrate, you can place rubber under the pump to reduce vibration. If I switch my PWM D5 up to max now in my software I can still barely hear it, mostly just the sploosh of water speeding up, my fans make more noise to be honest, that said the DBAY has rubber dampeners where you screw it into the drive bay.

 

Either or they both have their merits, it usually comes down to whats available. I have only used the D5 and I'm running two 240 rads [one 60mm, one 80mm] so from experience this pump is great for my needs. Maybe someone else can advise you of a DDC pump/combo if you give us an idea of where you want it.

 

2. ooahh Noctua fans, they do seem to have a bit of a reputa[cult following cough...]tion. Have a look at the reviews, I believe Linus did one but yes comparing the Noctua to the EK F4 the main things that stand out are:

  • airflow - noctua: 121.8, EK: 131
  • RPM - Noctua: 2000, EK: 2200
  • noise - Noctua: 29.7, EK: 33.5
  • Static pressure - Noctua: 3.94 mm H20, EK: 3.16 mm H20
  • Price - Noctua: $35 CAD, EK: $22 AUD basically same exchange
  • The noctua is waterproof - unless you are going swimming with your PC this is kinda useless, its meant for industrial applications.

3. For the front yea, you can grab some 140s, I'm not sure I would spend that much on them, but they do move a lot of air. Its up to you, do you have a budget? Are you trying to fit into a colour scheme, do you want the best of teh best?

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ok,

 

1. Thats what I'm using in my build now haha. I don't think the 804 has a drive bay though which is where that unit slots in, I suppose you could mod the front of the case to have it showing? The pump that is in the DBAY is the Laing D5 with an EK sticker on it. The D5 comes in vario [there is a little notch on the back that you adjust to range the flow rate up to 1500 L/h] and in a PWM version that you plug into your motherboard or into a fan controller like the Corsair Commander Mini, then using your motherboard's included software or the software with the fan controller you can adjust the speed of the pump.

 

The DDC is a smaller version of the D5, its square and there are some differences between them but just think of them as differently shaped pumps. The most important thing is the flowrate, you can place rubber under the pump to reduce vibration. If I switch my PWM D5 up to max now in my software I can still barely hear it, mostly just the sploosh of water speeding up, my fans make more noise to be honest, that said the DBAY has rubber dampeners where you screw it into the drive bay.

 

Either or they both have their merits, it usually comes down to whats available. I have only used the D5 and I'm running two 240 rads [one 60mm, one 80mm] so from experience this pump is great for my needs. Maybe someone else can advise you of a DDC pump/combo if you give us an idea of where you want it.

 

ooahh Noctua fans, they do seem to have a bit of a reputa[cult following cough...]tion. Have a look at the reviews, I believe Linus did one but yes comparing the CFM to the EK F4 the main things that stand out are:

  • airflow - noctua: 121.8, EK: 131
  • RPM - Noctua: 2000, EK: 2200
  • noise - Noctua: 29.7, EK: 33.5
  • Static pressure - Noctua: 3.94 mm H20, EK: 3.16 mm H20
  • Price - Noctua: $35 CAD, EK: $22 AUD basically same exchange
  • The noctua is waterproof - unless you are going swimming with your PC this is kinda useless, its meant for industrial applications.

For the front yea, you can grab some 140s, I'm not sure I would spend that much on them, but they do move a lot of air. Its up to you, do you have a budget? Are you trying to fit into a colour scheme, do you want the best of teh best?

lol, cult following, i don't mind people recomending noctuas in high end builds, what does bother me is people recomending them for EVERYTHING, like 'Get the Hyper 212 evo, WITH A NOCTUA FAN'.... In this particular case he seems to have the money and they are excellent fans, are they the only choice? NOP, are they a good choice if you got a big budget, totally

System

  • CPU
    I7-4790K @ 4,7GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus MAXIMUS Formula VI
  • RAM
    Kingston HyperX FURY 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 1866MHz
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X
  • Case
    Cooler Master Cosmos SE
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 EVO 500GB+WD Green 3TB
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 850G2 80PLUS Gold Certified
  • Display(s)
    ASUS PB277Q 27" WQHD 2560x1440 75Hz 1ms
  • Cooling
    Corsair H105 with AP121s and Phanteks fans
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G610 Orion
  • Mouse
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That's total overkill, nothing wrong with that, but think of it this way, if you're cooling a CPU a 280mm rad is more than you'll ever need, and a thin one. A GPU can do perfectly fine with a single 120 or 140, so a thick 280 and a thick 240 is already more than you'll ever need, that build is more of a showcase piece.

System

  • CPU
    I7-4790K @ 4,7GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus MAXIMUS Formula VI
  • RAM
    Kingston HyperX FURY 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 1866MHz
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X
  • Case
    Cooler Master Cosmos SE
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 EVO 500GB+WD Green 3TB
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 850G2 80PLUS Gold Certified
  • Display(s)
    ASUS PB277Q 27" WQHD 2560x1440 75Hz 1ms
  • Cooling
    Corsair H105 with AP121s and Phanteks fans
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G610 Orion
  • Mouse
    E-3lue E-Blue Mazer II 2500 DPI Blue LED 2.4GHz Wireless Optical Gaming Mouse
  • Sound
    Audio-Technica ATH-M20x
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
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i was actually trying to stay away from noctua because they are everywhere and seem expensive, but i went wandering the interwebs and found myself on noctuas front door, and i looked at there site, read a shit ton of reviews, and watched a few of there videos, and now....i think im sold. but 240 canadian dollars is alot for 8 fans ?? or is it ??

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thank you thank you thank you for your responses guys, this is helping me out so much,

okay so yeah my budget for the build is 3k, that's not including the water cooling stuff i need, for the water cooling budget itll be 500 canadian.
right now in regards to the water cooling stuff i will already have is the 2x hydro copper titan x's (it will be 1 to start then buy the other one down the road) 
but both will come pre installed with the gpu water blocks,

so all i really need water cooling wise within the 500 canadian price range is,
cpu block, rads that fit, i dont want to thick because to me they don't look as nice as thin so need some help here,
will need tubing, coolant, compression fittings, and the res/pump combo i linked 
https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-dbay-d5-vario-incl-pump

unless im missing something.....all the comments and help is much appreciated.

:D 

 

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yeah thats what i was thinking, his build is epic, a bit cramped....but looked over kill to me and i have never even done water cooling before and thats what it seemed like.

so should i run 2 rads ? or ??? 

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yeah thats what i was thinking, his build is epic, a bit cramped....but looked over kill to me and i have never even done water cooling before and thats what it seemed like.

so should i run 2 rads ? or ??? 

2 rads is fine, i would insist on getting at least a thick one on the front, there are colored rads, many ways to make them look nice, and there are MANY alternatives when it comes to fans, probably more than any other component, and since you'll be having vast rad surface you don't have to get super expensive noctuas, for the front AP121s or AP123s (the second is quieter) is a very good option. EK Vardars are not exactly cheap, but cheaper than noctuas and really fucking good fans. Also, get some copper sulfate, is very cheap, you add a couple drops and it prevents growth.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11744/ex-liq-154/IandH_Dead-Water_Copper_Sulfate_Biocidal_PC_Coolant_Additive_-_15_mL.html?tl=g30c103s186

you can also add a silver coil if you wanna be 110% safe.

Also, the NF-P12s and NF-P14s fans from noctua are cheaper but they are still excellent quiet fans

System

  • CPU
    I7-4790K @ 4,7GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus MAXIMUS Formula VI
  • RAM
    Kingston HyperX FURY 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 1866MHz
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X
  • Case
    Cooler Master Cosmos SE
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 EVO 500GB+WD Green 3TB
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 850G2 80PLUS Gold Certified
  • Display(s)
    ASUS PB277Q 27" WQHD 2560x1440 75Hz 1ms
  • Cooling
    Corsair H105 with AP121s and Phanteks fans
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G610 Orion
  • Mouse
    E-3lue E-Blue Mazer II 2500 DPI Blue LED 2.4GHz Wireless Optical Gaming Mouse
  • Sound
    Audio-Technica ATH-M20x
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
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yeah thats what i was thinking, his build is epic, a bit cramped....but looked over kill to me and i have never even done water cooling before and thats what it seemed like.

so should i run 2 rads ? or ??? 

(When you reply to someone quote the comment, otherwise we may not know)

System

  • CPU
    I7-4790K @ 4,7GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus MAXIMUS Formula VI
  • RAM
    Kingston HyperX FURY 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 1866MHz
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X
  • Case
    Cooler Master Cosmos SE
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 EVO 500GB+WD Green 3TB
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 850G2 80PLUS Gold Certified
  • Display(s)
    ASUS PB277Q 27" WQHD 2560x1440 75Hz 1ms
  • Cooling
    Corsair H105 with AP121s and Phanteks fans
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G610 Orion
  • Mouse
    E-3lue E-Blue Mazer II 2500 DPI Blue LED 2.4GHz Wireless Optical Gaming Mouse
  • Sound
    Audio-Technica ATH-M20x
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
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ok so total TDP of that guys build is for 2 x 290s and an i7 ~~660watt and yes 4 radiators is completely overkill. You cannot cool your system below the ambient temperature of the room so say if your room is 25 dc then you will be unable to go below that. For your build I'm guessing an i7 and 2 x titan Xs TDP = 590 watts.

 

I believe with that build the guy was just trying to see what he could shove into the case because it is quite small. For you build I would think that a 45 or 30 mm thick rad in the front chamber in push and a 60mm or 80mm in the rear in push/pull would be enough. Following the aforementioned rule of thumb - 2 + 1 = 3 --> 3 x 120 = 360. So 480mm of radiator space should be enough and with thicker rads should be even better.

 

To provide you will some more advice could you please list your full build, also do you plan to overclock? Are you trying to keep to a colour scheme? Unfortunately I don't believe the node 804 has a 5.25" drive bay, it can support a slimline optical CD drive on the front edge of the case, so I don't think the DBAY will fit  unless you're willing to get creative with an electric jigsaw.

 

EDIT:

 

Also where do you live, Canada? I only know of Dazmode, and shit compared to PCCG its expensive, hahaa.

 

Basics:

 

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how thick ? is 40mm okay?

never heard of 40mm, ive heard of 45mm, but yeah, that's a decently thick rad. Try to get a low fin density rad (That's why i was advocating for thickness) on the front so the ariflow won't be too impeded.

System

  • CPU
    I7-4790K @ 4,7GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus MAXIMUS Formula VI
  • RAM
    Kingston HyperX FURY 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 1866MHz
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X
  • Case
    Cooler Master Cosmos SE
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 EVO 500GB+WD Green 3TB
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 850G2 80PLUS Gold Certified
  • Display(s)
    ASUS PB277Q 27" WQHD 2560x1440 75Hz 1ms
  • Cooling
    Corsair H105 with AP121s and Phanteks fans
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G610 Orion
  • Mouse
    E-3lue E-Blue Mazer II 2500 DPI Blue LED 2.4GHz Wireless Optical Gaming Mouse
  • Sound
    Audio-Technica ATH-M20x
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
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(When you reply to someone quote the comment, otherwise we may not know)

okay my bad. !!

 

 

never heard of 40mm, ive heard of 45mm, but yeah, that's a decently thick rad. Try to get a low fin density rad (That's why i was advocating for thickness) on the front so the ariflow won't be too impeded.

any links?

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