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Entire new 5820K build with AIO, need advice

Hey folks,

 

So, I've bee reading these forums for quite a while now but can't make up my mind on what's best for me at the moment.

I've moved from other country to Canada and sold my old i7 860 to start an entire new build here.

I will be doing mostly gaming, video editing and running VMs to study (about 5).

Since I'm starting from scratch, this build is already very expensive, but it's an investment since it's not only for gaming.

 

This is my build so far:

http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/DR84TW

Note that I haven't chosen the PSU yet and it's already at $3k cad. I will probably hit $3.5k cad with this build.

 

I have chosen the Corsair H105 so far, but I still don't know if I should go push/pull or only pull. Also, which fans should I be using for that?

I've seen recommendations for Noctua NF-12, EK's EK-VARDAR F4-120, Phantek PH-F120MP, Corsair SP120, Noiseblocker eLoop B12-3...  can't really choose.

 

120x120x25mm Noiseblocker NB-eLoop S-Series B12-3 1900 U/min 27

Ek Water Blocks EK-VARDAR F4-120 (2200RPM) HIGH-STATIC Pressure Computer Cooling Fan - 120mm

Phanteks PH-F120MP 120 mm PWM, High Static Pressure Radiator Fan

Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition CO-9050006-WW 120mm Twin Pack High Static Pressure Case Fan

Noctua NF-P12-1300 120mm Case Fans

 

So far I've been thinking of:

Processor: Intel 5820K

Mobo: MSI X99S Gaming 7

Case: NZXT H440

 

For the airflow

Top: 2x Corsair AF140

Back: 1x Corsair AF140

Front: 1x Corsair AF140 + Corsair H105 w/ 2x <radiator fans mentioned above> or 4x <radiator fans mentioned above>

 

All fans would be connected to the motherboard using Y-splitters. Most likely using the same technique this guy used:

He messed up in this video for the testing part due to high voltages, but he made another video fixing it and temps dropped to low 70's C.

 

Newegg and Amazon have what I need for this build, I want a silent build, hence the separated AIOs for CPU and GPU.

I've never used WC before, so I don't want to start with a custom loop. An AIO is ok for now.

 

Thoughts?

 

Thanks.

 

TL;DR: H440 case, which AIO? Which fans for the radiator? Enough for the 5820K? Other case fans? Halpz.

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Get a 980ti not a Fury X the drivers r shit rn

 

The fans it comes with r plenty to cool a 5820k

Laptop: Thinkpad W520 i7 2720QM 24GB RAM 1920x1080 2x SSDs Main Rig: 4790k 12GB Hyperx Beast Zotac 980ti AMP! Fractal Define S (window) RM850 Noctua NH-D15 EVGA Z97 FTW with 3 1080P 144hz monitors from Asus Secondary: i5 6600K, R9 390 STRIX, 16GB DDR4, Acer Predator 144Hz 1440P

As Centos 7 SU once said: With great power comes great responsibility.

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Why not the H105i GT, or however they call the newer version of this AiO

CPU: Xeon 1230v3 - GPU: GTX 770  - SSD: 120GB 840 Evo - HDD: WD Blue 1TB - RAM: Ballistix 8GB - Case: CM N400 - PSU: CX 600M - Cooling: Cooler Master 212 Evo

Update Plans: Mini ITX this bitch

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snip

Follow ur topics

Laptop: Thinkpad W520 i7 2720QM 24GB RAM 1920x1080 2x SSDs Main Rig: 4790k 12GB Hyperx Beast Zotac 980ti AMP! Fractal Define S (window) RM850 Noctua NH-D15 EVGA Z97 FTW with 3 1080P 144hz monitors from Asus Secondary: i5 6600K, R9 390 STRIX, 16GB DDR4, Acer Predator 144Hz 1440P

As Centos 7 SU once said: With great power comes great responsibility.

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Get a 980ti not a Fury X the drivers r shit rn

 

The fans it comes with r plenty to cool a 5820k

Plus 2GB's more VRAM on the 980 Ti.

PC Specs: 

CPU: i7-9700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Elite | RAM: 16GB's Team T-Force Vulcan 3000MHz | GPU: Zotac GTX 1070 8GB AMP! Edition  | Storage: 500GB WD Caviar Blue | 1TB WD Caviar Black | Crucial BX200 240GB SSD | OS: Windows 10 64-bit  | PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold | CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 | Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum Headphones: Sennheiser HD 598 Special Edition's, HD 598 Cs | Keyboard: CM Storm QuickFire XT MX Blues Monitors: Acer GN246HL 144Hz, Acer G226HQLBbd 60Hz | Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro.

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The reason why I chose the Fury X vs 980, was this:

 

Monitor:
Acer XB270HU bprz Black 27'' 144Hz WQHD G-SYNC Widescreen LED Backlight LCD Monitor IPS 350 cd/m2 1,000:1
950cad
+
VGA:
EVGA 04G-P4-2983-KR GeForce GTX 980 Superclocked ACX 2.0 4GB 256-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 SLI Support Video Card
Total: $950 + $700 = $1650
 
vs
 
Monitor:
ASUS MG279Q Black 27" 144 Hz 4ms (GTG)WQHD Widescreen 2560X1440 LED IPS Panel, Adaptive-Sync (Free-Sync), Ergonomic Professional high performance Monitor, Pivot & High Adjustable
$700
+
VGA:
Sapphire Radeon R9 FURY X 4GB HBM PCI-E HDMI / TRIPLE DP
$865
Total: $1565
 
Freesync vs G-Sync. Same price, but the 980 is inferior to the Fury X. If I wanted to go with the 980Ti, that would add another $400 to the build...
And I'm not 100% with H105 yet, but I couldn't find anything about H105i GT yet. I think H105 would be enough for CPU only though... or not?
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Hey folks,

 

So, I've bee reading these forums for quite a while now but can't make up my mind on what's best for me at the moment.

I've moved from other country to Canada and sold my old i7 860 to start an entire new build here.

I will be doing mostly gaming, video editing and running VMs to study (about 5).

Since I'm starting from scratch, this build is already very expensive, but it's an investment since it's not only for gaming.

 

This is my build so far:

http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/DR84TW

Note that I haven't chosen the PSU yet and it's already at $3k cad. I will probably hit $3.5k cad with this build.

 

I have chosen the Corsair H105 so far, but I still don't know if I should go push/pull or only pull. Also, which fans should I be using for that?

I've seen recommendations for Noctua NF-12, EK's EK-VARDAR F4-120, Phantek PH-F120MP, Corsair SP120, Noiseblocker eLoop B12-3...  can't really choose.

 

120x120x25mm Noiseblocker NB-eLoop S-Series B12-3 1900 U/min 27

Ek Water Blocks EK-VARDAR F4-120 (2200RPM) HIGH-STATIC Pressure Computer Cooling Fan - 120mm

Phanteks PH-F120MP 120 mm PWM, High Static Pressure Radiator Fan

Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition CO-9050006-WW 120mm Twin Pack High Static Pressure Case Fan

Noctua NF-P12-1300 120mm Case Fans

 

So far I've been thinking of:

Processor: Intel 5820K

Mobo: MSI X99S Gaming 7

Case: NZXT H440

 

For the airflow

Top: 2x Corsair AF140

Back: 1x Corsair AF140

Front: 1x Corsair AF140 + Corsair H105 w/ 2x <radiator fans mentioned above> or 4x <radiator fans mentioned above>

 

All fans would be connected to the motherboard using Y-splitters. Most likely using the same technique this guy used:

He messed up in this video for the testing part due to high voltages, but he made another video fixing it and temps dropped to low 70's C.

 

Newegg and Amazon have what I need for this build, I want a silent build, hence the separated AIOs for CPU and GPU.

I've never used WC before, so I don't want to start with a custom loop. An AIO is ok for now.

 

Thoughts?

 

Thanks.

 

TL;DR: H440 case, which AIO? Which fans for the radiator? Enough for the 5820K? Other case fans? Halpz.

All the fans you mentioned are very good except for the corsair ones, i would avoid those, an H105 is enough for your CPU, you can get a 280mm rad, the difference in price and performance isn't earth shaking tho. Push/pull makes sense if you got the rad on the front since it provides a badass intake for your GPU and VRMs. I got that config, with PH-F120MPs pushing and Silverstone AP121s pulling, so i take advantage of the focused airflow. This has worked great for me, but you could replace the 121s for AP123s or Noctua's NF-P12s, they are quieter and have the same focused airflow. The GPU choice...the way i see it, HBM is a very new technology, and considering how important this build is for you, i think a 980 ti is a safer bet. For the other fans, honestly it doesn't matter that much, but NF-P12s and NF-A14s are very versatile and quiet. But since the top and rear aren't restricted places, pretty much any fan would do the job, just AF fans in general are a dumb concept, since you don't have to do much to optimize airflow, but it sure compromises SP, which is somewhat important in all aplications, so maybe Cougar Vortex would be a not expensive and good option, with NF-A14s being the premium option. PSU, i recomend the EVGA G2 series, the 750 or 850W, depending on what you're comfortable with, they are just extremely high quality PSUs at a decent price.

System

  • CPU
    I7-4790K @ 4,7GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus MAXIMUS Formula VI
  • RAM
    Kingston HyperX FURY 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 1866MHz
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X
  • Case
    Cooler Master Cosmos SE
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 EVO 500GB+WD Green 3TB
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 850G2 80PLUS Gold Certified
  • Display(s)
    ASUS PB277Q 27" WQHD 2560x1440 75Hz 1ms
  • Cooling
    Corsair H105 with AP121s and Phanteks fans
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G610 Orion
  • Mouse
    E-3lue E-Blue Mazer II 2500 DPI Blue LED 2.4GHz Wireless Optical Gaming Mouse
  • Sound
    Audio-Technica ATH-M20x
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
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The reason why I chose the Fury X vs 980, was this:

 

Monitor:
Acer XB270HU bprz Black 27'' 144Hz WQHD G-SYNC Widescreen LED Backlight LCD Monitor IPS 350 cd/m2 1,000:1
950cad
+
VGA:
EVGA 04G-P4-2983-KR GeForce GTX 980 Superclocked ACX 2.0 4GB 256-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 SLI Support Video Card
Total: $950 + $700 = $1650
 
vs
 
Monitor:
ASUS MG279Q Black 27" 144 Hz 4ms (GTG)WQHD Widescreen 2560X1440 LED IPS Panel, Adaptive-Sync (Free-Sync), Ergonomic Professional high performance Monitor, Pivot & High Adjustable
$700
+
VGA:
Sapphire Radeon R9 FURY X 4GB HBM PCI-E HDMI / TRIPLE DP
$865
Total: $1565
 
Freesync vs G-Sync. Same price, but the 980 is inferior to the Fury X. If I wanted to go with the 980Ti, that would add another $400 to the build...
And I'm not 100% with H105 yet, but I couldn't find anything about H105i GT yet. I think H105 would be enough for CPU only though... or not?

 

There is no H105i GT, idk who said that, it has no corsair link, which in my case was a plus since i dont care much for that software and the extra cables would have been annoying.

System

  • CPU
    I7-4790K @ 4,7GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus MAXIMUS Formula VI
  • RAM
    Kingston HyperX FURY 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 1866MHz
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X
  • Case
    Cooler Master Cosmos SE
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 EVO 500GB+WD Green 3TB
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 850G2 80PLUS Gold Certified
  • Display(s)
    ASUS PB277Q 27" WQHD 2560x1440 75Hz 1ms
  • Cooling
    Corsair H105 with AP121s and Phanteks fans
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G610 Orion
  • Mouse
    E-3lue E-Blue Mazer II 2500 DPI Blue LED 2.4GHz Wireless Optical Gaming Mouse
  • Sound
    Audio-Technica ATH-M20x
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
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The H110i GT is so much better performance and aesthetics wise than the H105. 

aesthetics are subjective, and the difference on an extremely overclocked system is 5ºC, like i said, the cost difference is small, so is the performance, so, not something to sweat about, specially if you plan on running you CPU at 1.3V or lower, which is the reasonable thing for a work PC

System

  • CPU
    I7-4790K @ 4,7GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus MAXIMUS Formula VI
  • RAM
    Kingston HyperX FURY 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 1866MHz
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X
  • Case
    Cooler Master Cosmos SE
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 EVO 500GB+WD Green 3TB
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 850G2 80PLUS Gold Certified
  • Display(s)
    ASUS PB277Q 27" WQHD 2560x1440 75Hz 1ms
  • Cooling
    Corsair H105 with AP121s and Phanteks fans
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G610 Orion
  • Mouse
    E-3lue E-Blue Mazer II 2500 DPI Blue LED 2.4GHz Wireless Optical Gaming Mouse
  • Sound
    Audio-Technica ATH-M20x
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
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All the fans you mentioned are very good except for the corsair ones, i would avoid those, an H105 is enough for your CPU, you can get a 280mm rad, the difference in price and performance isn't earth shaking tho. Push/pull makes sense if you got the rad on the front since it provides a badass intake for your GPU and VRMs. I got that config, with PH-F120MPs pushing and Silverstone AP121s pulling, so i take advantage of the focused airflow. This has worked great for me, but you could replace the 121s for AP123s or Noctua's NF-P12s, they are quieter and have the same focused airflow. The GPU choice...the way i see it, HBM is a very new technology, and considering how important this build is for you, i think a 980 ti is a safer bet. For the other fans, honestly it doesn't matter that much, but NF-P12s and NF-A14s are very versatile and quiet. But since the top and rear aren't restricted places, pretty much any fan would do the job, just AF fans in general are a dumb concept, since you don't have to do much to optimize airflow, but it sure compromises SP, which is somewhat important in all aplications, so maybe Cougar Vortex would be a not expensive and good option, with NF-A14s being the premium option. PSU, i recomend the EVGA G2 series, the 750 or 850W, depending on what you're comfortable with, they are just extremely high quality PSUs at a decent price.

 

That's what I thought, H105 might be just enough, I don't know if a 280mm radiator would fit as well as a 240mm one in the front of the H440, which is my plan.

I don't care much about software, they're not always trustable anyway, don't know about this one...

I'll search about those other fans and that PSU, thanks!

 

 

The H110i GT is so much better performance and aesthetics wise than the H105. 

 

Size wise, I don't know if a 280mm rad would fit as well as a 240mm in front of the NZXT H440.

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I'd say aesthetics are solely opinion-based. The reason I went for the H110i GT was because of (performance wise) the 113.0 CFM rating and (aesthetic wise) the square CPU block and brushed steel reservoir. But these are just my reasons, I can't justify spending $40 more for a cooler that you won't take advantage of. Just a suggestion. 

The airflow and static pressure ratings are very deceiving, they usually show the value at max RPMs which is unbearably loud, honestly, corsair stock fans are terrible on any AIO, i changed mine the moment i installed my AIO, plus, if you change the fans, the CFM rating means nothing, if i buy a double rad im going for quiet operation as well.

System

  • CPU
    I7-4790K @ 4,7GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus MAXIMUS Formula VI
  • RAM
    Kingston HyperX FURY 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 1866MHz
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X
  • Case
    Cooler Master Cosmos SE
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 EVO 500GB+WD Green 3TB
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 850G2 80PLUS Gold Certified
  • Display(s)
    ASUS PB277Q 27" WQHD 2560x1440 75Hz 1ms
  • Cooling
    Corsair H105 with AP121s and Phanteks fans
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G610 Orion
  • Mouse
    E-3lue E-Blue Mazer II 2500 DPI Blue LED 2.4GHz Wireless Optical Gaming Mouse
  • Sound
    Audio-Technica ATH-M20x
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
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While this may be true, I have indeed replaced the stock fans with white SP120's, and they spin at 2350 RPM. While this seems to be quiet loud, my case makes them almost silent. 

SP120s on a 280mm rad?

System

  • CPU
    I7-4790K @ 4,7GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus MAXIMUS Formula VI
  • RAM
    Kingston HyperX FURY 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 1866MHz
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X
  • Case
    Cooler Master Cosmos SE
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 EVO 500GB+WD Green 3TB
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 850G2 80PLUS Gold Certified
  • Display(s)
    ASUS PB277Q 27" WQHD 2560x1440 75Hz 1ms
  • Cooling
    Corsair H105 with AP121s and Phanteks fans
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G610 Orion
  • Mouse
    E-3lue E-Blue Mazer II 2500 DPI Blue LED 2.4GHz Wireless Optical Gaming Mouse
  • Sound
    Audio-Technica ATH-M20x
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
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Oh crap,  :D  my bad! SP140's is what I meant. Sorry about that bro

oh ok, seemed odd. the Nepton 280L allows that but still makes no sense :P

System

  • CPU
    I7-4790K @ 4,7GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus MAXIMUS Formula VI
  • RAM
    Kingston HyperX FURY 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 1866MHz
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X
  • Case
    Cooler Master Cosmos SE
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 EVO 500GB+WD Green 3TB
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 850G2 80PLUS Gold Certified
  • Display(s)
    ASUS PB277Q 27" WQHD 2560x1440 75Hz 1ms
  • Cooling
    Corsair H105 with AP121s and Phanteks fans
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G610 Orion
  • Mouse
    E-3lue E-Blue Mazer II 2500 DPI Blue LED 2.4GHz Wireless Optical Gaming Mouse
  • Sound
    Audio-Technica ATH-M20x
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
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PCPartPicker part list: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/C34YZL

 
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor  ($474.75 @ Vuugo) 
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($119.88 @ Canada Computers) 
Motherboard: Asus X99-A ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard  ($283.98 @ DirectCanada) 
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2666 Memory  ($213.50 @ Vuugo) 
Storage: Mushkin Chronos Deluxe 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (Purchased For $0.00) 
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($128.75 @ shopRBC) 
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive  (Purchased For $0.00) 
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  (Purchased For $0.00) 
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card  ($884.99 @ Memory Express) 
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($129.99 @ NCIX) 
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($119.99 @ NCIX) 
Monitor: Acer XB270HU bprz 144Hz 27.0" Monitor  ($863.17 @ DirectCanada) 
Total: $3219.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-23 18:16 EDT-0400
 
Don't waste your money on fans. Get the cheapest stuff you can find at your local computer store. 
 
Although to be honest, with the price difference between x99 and Z97 in Canada, you might be want to wait until Skylake comes out. 
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Wait, so it allows 120mm fans on a 280mm rad? That could actually be pretty handy.

i guess, but less than ideal

System

  • CPU
    I7-4790K @ 4,7GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus MAXIMUS Formula VI
  • RAM
    Kingston HyperX FURY 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 1866MHz
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X
  • Case
    Cooler Master Cosmos SE
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 EVO 500GB+WD Green 3TB
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 850G2 80PLUS Gold Certified
  • Display(s)
    ASUS PB277Q 27" WQHD 2560x1440 75Hz 1ms
  • Cooling
    Corsair H105 with AP121s and Phanteks fans
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G610 Orion
  • Mouse
    E-3lue E-Blue Mazer II 2500 DPI Blue LED 2.4GHz Wireless Optical Gaming Mouse
  • Sound
    Audio-Technica ATH-M20x
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
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The storage solution here is a bit crazy...Personally I'd go for 1 2TB drive instead of 2 1TB drives. Those drives are even different speeds.

i think thats just cuz he is reusing old drives.

 

go blue 

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That's right, bomerr. I just used to have those HDDs from my old i7 860, used them only to bring my data with me.

I'll probably get a new Black and get rid of the Green. I'm also waiting for a M.2-NVMe to get one.

About the price of all the stuff, I'm not yet worried about it, I'm just making the build and when I'm done with that, then I'll take care of that.

Maybe I'll go to NCIX talk to them and see if I can get a better deal buying a ton of stuff from them.

There aren't many computer shops in Vancouver, but NCIX is a good one.

 

So far I think I'll be using this cooling solution:

H105 pull/push front mount on H440 with 2x Phantek PH-F120MP (on sale on NewEgg right now) pushing and 2x Silverstone AP123 pulling (those are cheaper than Noctua's).

For the rest of the case, I think I'll save some money for now and in the future I might get something like Cougar CF-V14HP.

Are the fans that come with the H440 any good? Otherwise I'll have to get the Cougars as well.

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Ok, so... I ended up changing a few things here and there on this build.

 

First, the case. I've read mixed reviews of the NZXT H440 and as far as I could understand, the airflow sucks but it's silent. Changing it to Fractal Define R5 instead, I'll just remove optical drives cages and one hdd cage.

 

Second, I'm considering changing the Corsair H105 to Fractal Kelvin S36. Reason being the option to expand to a CPU+GPU AIO. Price doesn't help, though. The S36 would cost about 200cad, while the H105 is about 120cad... or I could go dual AIO, H105 for CPU and HG10+Hsomething for GPU.

 

Third, like you guys said, maybe the Fury X isn't the best choice here since it's too new. I've chosen that videocard for two reasons: 1) Factory watercooled; 2) Freesync with an Asus monitor, which in my opinion is better than Acer. The plan is to go for 1440p@144Hz, not 4K. I think a single 980Ti would do a good job, but then I'd need to go with an Acer monitor.

Also last time I bought a Nvidia card was a Geforce Ti4400, 13 years ago. Been using Radeons for 10 years, no regrets. But I'm not a fanboy, so I can always change. Don't care.

 

My plan is to build a custom loop someday, just not now. I'm not ready for it yet but I don't want to go for air cooling again. It's time to try something new.

 

Current build: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/7dPYZL

 

Thoughts?

Thanks.

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grab the newer H110i GTX or the or the H110i GT or the 100i GTX (the newer models have GT, GTI, GTX at the end) and have better adjustable speed pumps, and use less power!! so u dont blow motherboard headers anymore 

 

Fan wise please do not fall for the noctuas. the claimed fan noise vs what you actually hear is huge! 
the stock fans that come with the Corsair coolers are the High performance editions. so they are loud around 40DB. 
Grab the Sp120 Quiet editions 
I have a H80i GT and I switched to the 2 Quiet edition fans. and they knock 40db down to 27db! . and the claimed Noctuas is like an extra 40% cash for another 2-5DB. but the funny thing is 
background noise in most houses is 30 odd DB. so getting Noctuas that claim 24bd. is silly, as the background is already louder, and makes the extra cost unjustifiable

your decision on fan orientation. is all right
never put a high pressure fan on PULL only! because the intake side of the fans. they create LOW pressure on the intake side. meaning it will be very ineffective! 
if you only want to run 1 fan have the High Static pressure on PUSH. I had my H80i GT like this, but I realized it had trouble getting enough heat away, it would keep creeping up Temp wise. 
Last night I bought some Noctua Thermal grease, and wiped the stock crap off (never use the stock corsair stuff its bad)! 
put new grease on , and changed my fan orientation to push and PULL so Im running 2 fans now. and the temps are much much better. 
There is a few reasons this will be more important for me as the H80iGT has a 50mm thick radiator. so it needs more air speed/volume flow. 
the 240 and 280mm radiators are thinner and 1 fan on the psuh side is pretty decent. but push/pull will still work better of course. 

So to recap 
don't have a single fan on PULL. have a single fan on PUSH or 2 on push /PULL never a single PULL fan
The stock Thermal grease on the water blocks is not good at all. I went from 35 degrees idle to 29-31 with High quality Thermal paste applied in X style (its the best) 
when I installed  my H80.  
 

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  • 2 months later...

Ok, folks. I'm necroing my thread because the purpose is still the same.

The difference is that I've bought all the parts already now, only need some advice about the airflow.

I got the H105 because I don't trust the software to control the pump.

 

I have this now:

http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/mJTMkL

 

The monitor is not the best for gaming but for working/studying it's simply perfect. I may get a 144hz@1440p IPS in the near future for that purpose, but for now this is what I have, got it on sale for half the price, couldn't resist.

 

My question is regarding the H105 push/pull config. I've seen a lot of discussions but never got to really know what's the best option. It will be P/P using 2x Silverstone AP123 + 2x PH-F120MP, but I don't know what's the best option with this. I also have the GPU's rad to fix somewhere.

 

What I'm thinking now is this:

H105 on top, with 2x PHs on top of it and 2x APs below it, all exhaust.

GPU Rad on the rear, exhaust.

The included 140mm fans on the front & bottom as intake.

 

I know the Enthoo Primo is huge and I should have a custom loop there, but that's for the future, would be too expensive to buy the system + whole WC system at once. That's why the double AIO (CPU/GPU).

 

Thoughts?

Thanks.

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Either you put those rad fans as exhaust or intake, that's totally up to you. You can try both set up first and see which set up gives you the best result. Although by default, we've been saying to pull fresh air outside the case and blow them through the radiator, making them intake. But realistically, it can go either way, you'll just have to reconfigure the rear, bottom, and front fan set up depending on the kind of air flow you prefer or whatever air flow set up provides you the best cooling.

 

And just a quick note, I see those AP123 and PH-F120MP fan have different specs. If you're doing p/p config, you may want to pair the same fan on one side (stack them) of the rad, i.e. AP123 fans on left side of the rad, top and bottom, then PH-F120MP right side of the rad, top and bottom. This way you don't create turbulence between the two fans that have two different CFMs and Static pressure. It'll have a more fluid airflow and more effective when cooling the rad. Just my 2c

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Either you put those rad fans as exhaust or intake, that's totally up to you. You can try both set up first and see which set up gives you the best result. Although by default, we've been saying to pull fresh air outside the case and blow them through the radiator, making them intake. But realistically, it can go either way, you'll just have to reconfigure the rear, bottom, and front fan set up depending on the kind of air flow you prefer or whatever air flow set up provides you the best cooling.

 

And just a quick note, I see those AP123 and PH-F120MP fan have different specs. If you're doing p/p config, you may want to pair the same fan on one side (stack them) of the rad, i.e. AP123 fans on left side of the rad, top and bottom, then PH-F120MP right side of the rad, top and bottom. This way you don't create turbulence between the two fans that have two different CFMs and Static pressure. It'll have a more fluid airflow and more effective when cooling the rad. Just my 2c

 

Oh crap. So I should've bought 4x AP123 instead? Too late. :(

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