LINUS I NEED YOUR GOD LIKE HELP

[darioLucantoni]

For anyone reading this there is a picture attached to this post. My friend brought his PC around saying that it was no longer working after he fitted a watercooler on his CPU after hours of trying to figure out why when we moved his PC of the desk (because we gave up) I heard a rattle and there is was this little doohickey.

 

Anyone who can help i need to buy a new doohickey. Any link would be great

 

 

[blu4]

Solder is back on? Look for part number on the side. Looks like a capacitor to me.

[LiamApex]

For anyone reading this there is a picture attached to this post. My friend brought his PC around saying that it was no longer working after he fitted a watercooler on his CPU after hours of trying to figure out why when we moved his PC of the desk (because we gave up) I heard a rattle and there is was this little doohickey.

 

Anyone who can help i need to buy a new doohickey. Any link would be great

whats the part number

[Speedbird]

I was gong to help you, but you asked for Linus and that offended me.

 

jk.

 

Anyway, if the baord is still under warranty send it in and hope that they replace it for you. If not, you can try soldering it back on.

[Damikiller37]

@darioLucantoni Try contacting MSI to see if they could send you a replacement part or if they could fix it for you whether you have a warranty or not.

 

P.S. Make sure to follow your topics. You can do so by clicking the "Follow this post" button which is located at the right hand side of the Title (you can also chose to follow your topics when creating it).

[CalculuS]

If its still under decent condition you can resolder it altough i'd recommend against it, unless you have soldering experience this is gonna be tricky.

 

You can try contacting manufacterer, normally this doesn't fall under warranty but tbh the most will still RMA it.

[H4X3R]

Send it for warranty or solder it on.

[k4p84]

Looks like a capacitor.

 

Not sure an RMA would work, through hole components don't tend to fall off, it would have been given a fair smack to break both the cap legs.

 

You can remove the old legs and solder in a new one but be careful motherboards have lots of SMD components that can be knocked off with a misplaced soldering iron / solder reflow gun.

 

I was a plank once and removed a waterblock backplate with a screwdriver, (it had adhesive pads), I slipped and tore through a few board traces. A few strands of wire and nail polish later all was well and I will not do that again !

[Kherm]

You're going to need to RMA it if it is still under warranty

[darioLucantoni]

thanks for all the reply's. Its a brand new board that i have sent back but ebuyer gave me some bs saying that the pins were bent so they wont fix it. You can see the info of the capacitor in the pic thats all the info i have. what am looking for it to find out where to buy the same part if any one knows

[Matt420740]

That is a 100uf 16V solid state capacitor. This one here will work for a replacement - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/PLF1C101MDL4/?qs=%252bxyxD9GtKu3aNB8vwxMySA%3D%3D

[NannerBeans]

thanks for all the reply's. Its a brand new board that i have sent back but ebuyer gave me some bs saying that the pins were bent so they wont fix it. You can see the info of the capacitor in the pic thats all the info i have. what am looking for it to find out where to buy the same part if any one knows

Um if that fell off it is almost always user error. I wouldn't fix it if I was the one that sold you the board either. 

[Oskar94a]

note that if you try to solder it back, the heat may undo the soldering of things nearby.

[darioLucantoni]

You sir are a legend that is exactly what am looking for. Thank you very much for the time to post....  But be for i put one of these in the board and the hole thing goes bang if anyone has the know-how could you double check his link and tell me that's the correct one to buy 

[Matt420740]

You sir are a legend that is exactly what am looking for. Thank you very much for the time to post....  But be for i put one of these in the board and the hole thing goes bang if anyone has the know-how could you double check his link and tell me that's the correct one to buy 

I know you were probably looking for someone else than me to verify my own post, but I can assure you it will work. If you look at your cap, the numbers at the top, are the model of capacitor. The 101 tells the capacitance. 101 = 100uf. And the 1C tells you its a 16V cap.

The model # is going to vary between different manufacturers. I couldn't find the exact brand, but the one I linked is electrically equivalent.

Note the white line on your cap. Thats the negative side. On the new cap the red is the negative side.

I build amplifiers and effects pedals, so I deal with capacitors a lot. - https://sites.google.com/site/culleramplification/

And for future reference, you can find charts to help with capacitor codes here - http://www.radio-electronics.com/info/data/capacitor/capacitor-markings.php

Get a cheap roll of copper de-solder wick while your at it. Use that to remove the solder from the back side of the board at the capacitor legs, then flip the board over and you should be able push the old legs out by pushing the new cap in. - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MG-Chemicals/423/?qs=nnh8%2FA0SuH%2boKNKnDPnDLw%3D%3D&kpid=2294117&gclid=CjwKEAjwqLWrBRC-_OaG-IfL0kASJAAbzKsVSzOR0xntn2yjCgNTs-Z585BFfPqOvMpif1IP08ZDixoCvSzw_wcB