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right speaker does not work after driver update

Go to solution Solved by zanthros,

Check for a bad wire on the speaker cable or since your board has the Realtek ALC892 8 channel chip in it just use the full realtek driver and re-task a different audio port for your speakers if you are just using 2 speakers.

after installing the newest realtek audio driver for my sabertooth 990fx rev2 using Slim Drivers my right speaker did not work. I suspected the driver to be the problem and uninstalled it and let windows 7 install the one i had previously. after rebooting, my right speaker still did not work. I got worried, so i rebooted to a linux distro and well, bad news, right speaker still does not work. Back in windows i connected my speakers to the front panle jack. They work.

 

Does that mean that the audio chip on the mobo is damaged? RMA is pretty annoying here in Austria...

 

Anything else i can do? :(

CPU: Intel i7-6700K @4.8Ghz - MB: ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Ranger - RAM: 2x8GB G.Skill RipJaws V DDR4@2400Mhz - GPU: EVGA FTW GeForce GTX1080 - SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB - HDD: Seagate Desktop HDD 3TB, bunch of old WD 500GB drives, old WD green 1.5TB - Case: AeroCool Mechatron - PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750 750W - Display: iijama ProLite B2712HDS 27" 1080p Display - Cooling: Enermax Liqmax II 240 - Keyboard: Corsair K70 Cherry-MX Brown - Mouse: Corsair M65 FPS Gunmetal Black - Sound: Logitech X230

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Check for a bad wire on the speaker cable or since your board has the Realtek ALC892 8 channel chip in it just use the full realtek driver and re-task a different audio port for your speakers if you are just using 2 speakers.

                  Did I help you to fix your problem or at least did offer somewhat valuable advice? Consider giving my post a "informative" or "thumbs up".

SYSTEM 2: Modded G3 case with Gigabyte GA-G33M-S2L, Intel E8600 (O.C to 4.2GHz.), 4GB GSkill PC8500, Nvidia 8800GTS (512M), Cooling provided by Scythe Big Shrunkin, HDD 1 = OSX 10.9.5, HDD 2 = Windows 7 Pro X64. (Placed 3rd in MacMod  of the year 2012) (For info see:  http://insanelymac.com/forum/topic/285641-and-the-winner-for-macmod-of-2012-is/

LAPTOP: Inspiron 1720, Modded BIOS, X9000 Core 2 extreme OC'ed and undervolted to 3.4GHz (windows only) , 6GB DDR2 800, 8600M GT, 1920x1200 Glossy display, Sigmatel Audio, 2 Kingston HyperX 120GB drives (1 with Windows 7 x64 pro & 1 with OSX 10.9.5) X9000 Processor World Record Holder since 02/2013 on Geekbench 2 : http://browser.primatelabs.com/geekbench2/search?dir=desc&q=x9000&sort=score

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Check for a bad wire on the speaker cable or since your board has the Realtek ALC892 8 channel chip in it just use the full realtek driver and re-task a different audio port for your speakers if you are just using 2 speakers.

thanks, I actually realised by myself that i messed up when i found out that my headphones work on my front panel but the speakers are broken. What a bummer, i loved my X230 :(

 

I am convinced its the cable, as the right speaker makes static noise when i turn the connector on and the led and volume control work, they are both located on that right speaker. Is there any way to repair it for someone with very basic soldering and wiring abilities?

CPU: Intel i7-6700K @4.8Ghz - MB: ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Ranger - RAM: 2x8GB G.Skill RipJaws V DDR4@2400Mhz - GPU: EVGA FTW GeForce GTX1080 - SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB - HDD: Seagate Desktop HDD 3TB, bunch of old WD 500GB drives, old WD green 1.5TB - Case: AeroCool Mechatron - PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750 750W - Display: iijama ProLite B2712HDS 27" 1080p Display - Cooling: Enermax Liqmax II 240 - Keyboard: Corsair K70 Cherry-MX Brown - Mouse: Corsair M65 FPS Gunmetal Black - Sound: Logitech X230

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If it is the jack that creates the static when you turn it then just clean off the jack with some contact cleaner and spray just a little cleaner (only a very little bit) into the jack hole whit the system is off and "work the jack in and out of the hole. This will remove any dirt and oxidation that is on the contact surfaces that can cause static and cracking noises. If the wiring is "bad" it is no big deal to go to radio shack and buy a replacement jack and the same size speaker wire(It is important to use wire that is of the same specs). The big challenge is to open the speaker without damaging it. I use a dremel with a cutting wheel on speakers that have no screws that hold the speaker together. Speakers like this are either held together with adhesive or sonic welded together. After i am done with the wire replacement you can use a special glue made just for plastics to glue it back together. The glue is made by Locktite and is specially made to hold plastics together that regular superglue does not work on. It is a type of superglue with a primer. Dries in seconds, so be careful. Good luck!

                  Did I help you to fix your problem or at least did offer somewhat valuable advice? Consider giving my post a "informative" or "thumbs up".

SYSTEM 2: Modded G3 case with Gigabyte GA-G33M-S2L, Intel E8600 (O.C to 4.2GHz.), 4GB GSkill PC8500, Nvidia 8800GTS (512M), Cooling provided by Scythe Big Shrunkin, HDD 1 = OSX 10.9.5, HDD 2 = Windows 7 Pro X64. (Placed 3rd in MacMod  of the year 2012) (For info see:  http://insanelymac.com/forum/topic/285641-and-the-winner-for-macmod-of-2012-is/

LAPTOP: Inspiron 1720, Modded BIOS, X9000 Core 2 extreme OC'ed and undervolted to 3.4GHz (windows only) , 6GB DDR2 800, 8600M GT, 1920x1200 Glossy display, Sigmatel Audio, 2 Kingston HyperX 120GB drives (1 with Windows 7 x64 pro & 1 with OSX 10.9.5) X9000 Processor World Record Holder since 02/2013 on Geekbench 2 : http://browser.primatelabs.com/geekbench2/search?dir=desc&q=x9000&sort=score

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