PSU Shroud for Define R5 - Advice?

[xeromynd]

So I'm looking into making a custom PSU shroud for my Define R5.

I'm trying to have a metal fabrication shop handle the initial bending and cutting, but they don't do intricate stuff, so the small cuts, grommeting, and painting is up to me.

 

Basically I need to know if it's difficult to make precise measured cuts in aluminum sheeting with your standard Dremel.

-Is there a specific attachment I should look into for cutting aluminum? For cutting, for sanding down?

 

Rudimentary plans are below. These don't show it, but I plan to have two  parallel grommeted cable holes on the right side of the top piece for GPU and motherboard stuff (Case, USB, etc..)

I also want to cut out a very small nook in the top left of the "top" piece for my audio cable to route through to my mobo.

 

I'm also open to suggestions for how to mount this thing in the case. My initial thought was to attach some 90° flat corners onto the inside bottom of the shroud, and put velcro on those and the case, but I'm not sure that'd be the best option here.

 

*EDITED* - replaced images with final dimensions, now in good ol' inches

 

 

 

 

Sorry this isn't the most specific of questions, but I'm open to any and all suggestions from anyone who's done this kind of stuff before.

[W-L]

-SNIP-

 

For aluminum t's fairly easy to cut with a dremel or rotary tool using a reinforced cutting disc, for sanding or shaping I suggest a good fold fashion metal file will give you get better control and straighter lines than the sanding disc or drum on the dremel I find.

 

For the front are you planning to leave it open or have something like the drive cages there?

[xeromynd]

For aluminum t's fairly easy to cut with a dremel or rotary tool using a reinforced cutting disc, for sanding or shaping I suggest a good fold fashion metal file will give you get better control and straighter lines than the sanding disc or drum on the dremel I find.

 

For the front are you planning to leave it open or have something like the drive cages there?

 

Thanks for the advice, I am planning to leave it open, as I have a bottom-front intake fan, and one of my two front intakes also sits more-or-less flush with the bottom of the case, so a full closed-off shroud would restrict airflow methinks. The main point is to hide PSU cabling, hide the colors on the PSU that don't match my build, and give me an opportunity for a cool design, computer name, or logo or something in the future.

 

This is an example, and someone else's image, but this is pretty much what I'm going for, not the design, just the concept.

 

Inside of my case as it is now (shitty phone pic)

[W-L]

Thanks for the advice, I am planning to leave it open, as I have a bottom-front intake fan, and one of my two front intakes also sits more-or-less flush with the bottom of the case, so a full closed-off shroud would restrict airflow methinks. The main point is to hide PSU cabling, hide the colors on the PSU that don't match my build, and give me an opportunity for a cool design, computer name, or logo or something in the future.

 

This is an example, and someone else's image, but this is pretty much what I'm going for, not the design, just the concept.

 

-PIC-

Inside of my case as it is now (shitty phone pic)

 

 

I think it would look good are you planning to paint or wrap the cover?

Also what did you use to color those vibration mounts on those Noctua fans.

[xeromynd]

I think it would look good are you planning to paint or wrap the cover?

Also what did you use to color those vibration mounts on those Noctua fans.

 

Going to paint it black, and either cut & adhere some white accent designs with another material, or just paint some stuff on it.

There will be two grommets in the top of the shroud for cables to the GPU and Mobo. Probably will paint those white, ordered some replacement S340 grommets from NZXT that should fit perfectly. 

 

Far as painting the Noctua corners, that was just Plastidip spray. Tried the actual dip dip, but it didn't work well. Took about 6 coats to make it look good. The pieces that don't look good were used in places you can't see them haha.

[AlanTheEmu]

 

Basically I need to know if it's difficult to make precise measured cuts in aluminum sheeting with your standard Dremel.

-Is there a specific attachment I should look into for cutting aluminum? For cutting, for sanding down?

 

 

I'm also open to suggestions for how to mount this thing in the case. My initial thought was to attach some 90° flat corners onto the inside bottom of the shroud, and put velcro on those and the case, but I'm not sure that'd be the best option here.

 

I have a shroud for my R5 and did the same thing. I let the aluminium manufacturer cut and bend the metal and then I just cut holes for grommets and cut where the front panel IO, usb headers and the HD audio header. A dremel should handle it as long as it's a decent one otherwise it may keep getting stuck whilst cutting and just a standard cutting wheel will do.  Also what's the depth of the aluminum? I'm using 1.5mm and my dremel cut through it with relative ease you just have to be patient. The way I mount my shroud is by having some velcro on the PSU and using a 90° bracket which is bolted onto the motherboard tray.

[xeromynd]

I have a shroud for my R5 and did the same thing. I let the aluminium manufacturer cut and bend the metal and then I just cut holes for grommets and cut where the front panel IO, usb headers and the HD audio header. A dremel should handle it as long as it's a decent one otherwise it may keep getting stuck whilst cutting and just a standard cutting wheel will do.  Also what's the depth of the aluminum? I'm using 1.5mm and my dremel cut through it with relative ease you just have to be patient. The way I mount my shroud is by having some velcro on the PSU and using a 90° bracket which is bolted onto the motherboard tray.

 

Nice to hear from someone else whos actually done it. Haven't had it completed by the metal shop yet, so probably 1.5mm thickness I guess, doesn't really need to be thick at all.

By velcro on the PSU do you mean just on the top of it? That could work actually.

[AlanTheEmu]

Nice to hear from someone else whos actually done it. Haven't had it completed by the metal shop yet, so probably 1.5mm thickness I guess, doesn't really need to be thick at all.

By velcro on the PSU do you mean just on the top of it? That could work actually.

Yeah I just have a little bit of velcro on the outer corner of the PSU and it holds it just fine mine doesn't move but I have the 90 bracket to support the shrouds weight otherwise it dips slightly at the unsupported end, but since yours is quite short in terms of the actual cover you should get away with velcro. Also make sure you give yourself a few mm on the length of the shroud so you can fit and remove it easily. I have to put my shroud in at an angle first due to the R5's side panel frame because it's wider at the back.

[rahyan16]

Any updates on this? I want to make one for my r5 as well but I don't know where to buy or have the metal sheet bent.

[W-L]

Any updates on this? I want to make one for my r5 as well but I don't know where to buy or have the metal sheet bent.

 

Welcome to the Forums!

 

For sheet metal most hardware stores or local metal shops will have the stuff you need, but if you need material bent try to look for local metal shops or even roofing locations they have metal brakes and the material you need. Just provide them a drawing with the proper dimensions and they can take care of everything.

[xeromynd]

Any updates on this? I want to make one for my r5 as well but I don't know where to buy or have the metal sheet bent.

 

Everything W-L said above. I looked for metal fabrication shops in my area, those seem to be the key. There was a post on another forum saying that Home Depot can cut and bend metal for you, but I can never find anyone to help me at Home Depot, so I imagine finding someone who has the time to do that would be like looking for a needle in a haystack.

 

No updates on my end yet, I got in contact with a local metal fabrication shop a town over from me, sent over my markup, and am currently waiting to hear back for a quote. I'd be happy to send my marked up document if you want a starting point, made it in SketchUp. Now, I double checked all my measurements and theoretically they should fit, but like it said, it isn't actually made yet, so I can't comment on whether it's the perfect dimensions or not. 

 

I also forgot to take into account how to actually get this thing in the R5, I'm worried it'll be a bit too wide, but hopefully I can wiggle it in without scratching anything.

 

*EDIT* I taped together a few pieces of paper to see what the two designs I had in my head would actually look like inside the R5. Took some pictures below, ultimately, I decided I liked the longer, more open one better.

 

DESIGN 1.) More boxy, closes off all cables, but ultimately just looks like a bigass PSU, ~~ meh.

  

 

DESIGN 2.) More open, spans the whole width of the case. Will tuck cables back in more so you can't see them so much as you do here:

 

 

[rahyan16]

Everything W-L said above. I looked for metal fabrication shops in my area, those seem to be the key. There was a post on another forum saying that Home Depot can cut and bend metal for you, but I can never find anyone to help me at Home Depot, so I imagine finding someone who has the time to do that would be like looking for a needle in a haystack.

 

No updates on my end yet, I got in contact with a local metal fabrication shop a town over from me, sent over my markup, and am currently waiting to hear back for a quote. I'd be happy to send my marked up document if you want a starting point, made it in SketchUp. Now, I double checked all my measurements and theoretically they should fit, but like it said, it isn't actually made yet, so I can't comment on whether it's the perfect dimensions or not. 

 

I also forgot to take into account how to actually get this thing in the R5, I'm worried it'll be a bit too wide, but hopefully I can wiggle it in without scratching anything.

 

*EDIT* I taped together a few pieces of paper to see what the two designs I had in my head would actually look like inside the R5. Took some pictures below, ultimately, I decided I liked the longer, more open one better.

 

DESIGN 1.) More boxy, closes off all cables, but ultimately just looks like a bigass PSU, ~~ meh.

  

 

DESIGN 2.) More open, spans the whole width of the case. Will tuck cables back in more so you can't see them so much as you do here:

 

 

​

Is the dimensions different from the original post ? I actually like the longer one too, looks more sleek

[TheProfosist]

I'm sure @Charger has some idea for this. I also plan on designing a shroud for my Anthrax build and having it made so I'll be keeping an eye on this thread.

[Charger]

I'm sure @Charger has some idea for this. I also plan on designing a shroud for my Anthrax build and having it made so I'll be keeping an eye on this thread.

I would just get sheet metal and cut and bend it myself but I have everything to do that. If I didnt have it I would ask my little brother to make me it since he works at a sheet metal shop lol.

[TheProfosist]

I would just get sheet metal and cut and bend it myself but I have everything to do that. If I didnt have it I would ask my little brother to make me it since he works at a sheet metal shop lol.

I was going more into the design and how you attach it. I know you could do it all yourself.

[xeromynd]

I was going more into the design and how you attach it. I know you could do it all yourself.

 

Yeah, any ideas on how to attach would be nice, honestly I was just planning on winging it. Probably with double sided adhesive to the top of the PSU, something like a command strip so I can easily remove it, and so it doesn't vibrate or scratch the bottom of the R5, a thin piece of weatherseal foam (one side adhesive, one side foam) all across the length of the shroud where it normally would be touching the floor. Maybe I could attach some L-Brackets to the inside of the shroud so one side is on the shroud, other is on the bottom of the case, and screw it into the honeycomb grills on the bottom, idk.

 

 

Is the dimensions different from the original post ? I actually like the longer one too, looks more sleek

 

Updated the original post with my final dimensions, shops (or at least the ones I've been in contact with) tend to prefer good ol' inches to the superior metric system.

[Nosfy]

Thought about using acrylic like this dude.

 

[xeromynd]

Thought about using acrylic like this dude.

 

 

I can dig it, but that bend/corner on the shroud kills me :-/

 

What convinced me to make my own PSU shroud was this:

 

AKA the sexiest PSU shroud I've ever seen in my life. But I have NO idea how you would make such a clean three-way bend in the metal

[Nosfy]

I can dig it, but that bend/corner on the shroud kills me :-/

 

What convinced me to make my own PSU shroud was this:

 

 

AKA the sexiest PSU shroud I've ever seen in my life. But I have NO idea how you would make such a clean three-way bend in the metal

 

Yeah I agree with the bend it kills me too but I guess you could try to do a better job. I think he tried to curve it which It was probs a mistake. 90degree straight bend would have been better. Saying that..... that is one sexy shroud there so not surprise you would want to try and replicate it. I would love something like that also.

 

That SSD mount tho.... :unsure:

[rahyan16]

I sent an edited layout of the one you posted to some guy in kijiji and he is asking for 80cad. Is this normal? Seems way too overpriced.

[W-L]

I can dig it, but that bend/corner on the shroud kills me :-/

What convinced me to make my own PSU shroud was this:

 

-PIC-

AKA the sexiest PSU shroud I've ever seen in my life. But I have NO idea how you would make such a clean three-way bend in the metal

 

I would assume the bent and welded it but that looks awesome never the less. For the mounting I would say use some foam blocks on the edges of the shroud and attaching them to the sides of the case.

 

 

I sent an edited layout of the one you posted to some guy in kijiji and he is asking for 80cad. Is this normal? Seems way too overpriced.

 

Depends if they are using 3-4mm aluminum then I would say it's around the right ball park for new material but if it's just 18 or 20 gauge unfinished steel it's overpriced I would say for essential one bend and 3 cuts.

 

I did some roofing work previously and had to get a piece of powder coated metal custom cut and got a 36"x24" sheet of metal cut with two edges bend 90 degrees and all the edges rolled for $60. 

[TacticlTwinkie]

If you are a cheap bastard like me, you can cut up a cardboard box and spray paint it black. It works pretty well for basically free. It will tide you over until you make a nice metal one. I plan to make a nice one out of steel eventually and paint it up all fancy and shit.

[rahyan16]

Depends if they are using 3-4mm aluminum then I would say it's around the right ball park for new material but if it's just 18 or 20 gauge unfinished steel it's overpriced I would say for essential one bend and 3 cuts.

I did some roofing work previously and had to get a piece of powder coated metal custom cut and got a 36"x24" sheet of metal cut with two edges bend 90 degrees and all the edges rolled for $60.

I told the guy to use 1.5mm or is that too thin?

If you are a cheap bastard like me, you can cut up a cardboard box and spray paint it black. It works pretty well for basically free. It will tide you over until you make a nice metal one. I plan to make a nice one out of steel eventually and paint it up all fancy and shit.
image.jpg
image.jpg

that would actually be pretty legit with stickers, like this carbon fiber one http://www.amazon.ca/YESURPRISE-Carbon-Sticker-Adhesive-Notebook/dp/B00KR9Q42W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1429676571&sr=8-2&keywords=carbon+fiber+sticker

[W-L]

I told the guy to use 1.5mm or is that too thin?

 

1.5mm is pretty thick it's around 16-17 gauge metal, a good idea of something like that is a metal mouse mat those are usually 2mm thick. It will however prevent sag a lot better compared to thinner materials.

[rahyan16]

1.5mm is pretty thick it's around 16-17 gauge metal, a good idea of something like that is a metal mouse mat those are usually 2mm thick. It will however prevent sag a lot better compared to thinner materials.

yea. so wouldn't thinner sheet be cheaper? if he is asking for 80cad for a 1.5mm how much more for a 2mm or 4mm. If its this expensive I might as well go with the ghetto cardboard shroud and save for a caselabs, 900d or something similar.