Raijintek Triton AIO watercooling

[0ld_Chicken]

I don't have the time to do a proper review but I just installed my Triton I got off newegg for 84.99 on sale.  I'll give you a taste of what I'm seeing.  This is my first watercooler so my experience is limited but I will answer any questions that I can

 

All in all I'm very happy with this cooler as my entry into watercooling

 

what I'm running

Raijintek Triton water cooler

 

case-DIYpc Shadow-H01-bk (not recommended for this cooler!!!)
i7 4790k at 4.7ghz
(2) 8gb gskill ripjaws @1600
ASUS z97-a mobo
corsair cs450m gold plus
gigabyte g1 gtx960
silicon power 120gb ssd
Western Digital Blue WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM
stock fans pulling on top (no more than 80% rpm)

4 cougar cf-t12s4 fans on (2)front, (1) rear (1) side 

Logisys 300mm dual cold cathode UV lights

 

I was hitting about 72c+ using max setting on intel burn at stock clock on old CM212 hyper evo. 

 

same stock clock settings got me 60c on max with fans at 75% pulling on top

I am able to safely oc to 4.7 and stay below 70c and 1.2v with fans under 80%.

 

The fans are controllable with a dial controller that is connected via a 2 pin harness.  The controller gives a good range of control but it is extremely sensitive and will seemingly go from ~40%to 100% in no time if you arent careful and slow moving.

 

The fans themselves are really loud at 100%, they move a ton of air but they are super loud so I keep them under 80% even if I'm running synthetic tests. (they move so much air at 100% im not sure all of it is even going in the right direction haha)

I leave the fans on 100% and control them with Speedfan (as I do with all my fans on all my computers)

 

One thing to be careful of is keeping the air in the res instead of in the radiator.  This proved to be very difficult for me since I mounted on top and the bubbles had a tendency to want to go up to the radiator.  Keeping the block in the same orientation as it is installed (hoses on the bottom of the face) allowed me to keep the air in the res.  The first time I installed I noticed that the res was totally full of liquid (it had some air in it before install) and if the air isn't in the res then its got to be in the radiator.  This takes up some of your radiator space that would otherwise be full of liquid as it cools, and if enough air gets in there it could cause a blockage that could totally cut off water flow.  I don't know if this is a problem exclusive to this cooler, I haven't seen a lot of other units with reservoirs on the block.  It seemed like I got a 2c-3c difference between re installing with no air in the radiator.  

     

     If anything I think that this cooler makes it easier to see where your air is because the hoses and res/block are clear so I dont mind this or think negatively of Raijintek because of it.  Plus if you were front mounting the radiator lower than the block the air would go to the res automatically. 

 

Only other gripe I have with this is that the block is nickle plated copper, the radiator is aluminum.  From what I've read this can cause corrosion issues if/when the nickle plating wears off and exposes the different metal.  supposedly this is only a problem if the liquid inside is conductive and I would assume they are using distilled water or some other "non-conductive".  I plan on changing the liquid before 1 year of usage with some sort of non conductive liquid for water coolers, probably UV just to make sure.

 

I run the pump at 100% all the time, I have read that this is sometimes beneficial for pump life and I haven't found anything to the contrary yet but please let me know if you know differently. I just Email Raijintek at 4:54pm 3/8/15 via Facebook asking about the pump speeds, ill try my hardest to remember to post their response.  I have contacted them this way twice before and gotten very prompt and helpful responses.

 

A Raijintek rep got back to me (2:02am on 3/9/15) and said that it would not be a problem to drop pump speed down to 75% for idle loads

 

The LED lights do not seem as bright as I thought they would be, this may be because I've only got two led fans and my case window is tinted, they do change with the pump power but since I stay at 100 so do the LEDs.  at this time I don't have any additional lighting in my case besides the two led fans so I cant expect any crazy light shows.  The picture seems to capture more of the light from the LEDs, they don't look quite that bright in real life

 

Also in my opinion the hoses on this thing stink (literally) since I've put it in.  It is the worst and most noticeable when the computer has been off (stagnant air) for several hours.  I'll take the case off and notice the smell of maybe rubber and antifreeze, would be the only way to describe it.  I've looked extensively for a week everyday now and seen absolutely no evidence of water or liquid anywhere it shouldn't be.  I can put my nose directly on the hoses and smell it coming directly from them. The smell has gotten less and less noticeable everyday and it now pretty much gone.

 

EDIT: I added a couple cathode tube UV lights and was surprised to find that the stock blue fluid is UV reactive

 

so much for a quick review

 

 

 

[Raudi_]

Please edit your post and change the text color to automatic night theme users have issues reading dark text.

[0ld_Chicken]

I had no idea, I've never really posted to forums in the past.  Thanks for letting me know.  Is it better now?

[OnCue]

Please change the text color to "automatic"

[thekeemo]

My CoolIT Elite V2 also has the same smell. I hate it

[0ld_Chicken]

smell has now faded to next to none for me

[Walz88]

Hi guys! I have a question about triton
I have a Triton and i have another 240mm radiator (from an h105), do you think that the pump of triton can handle both? I could put the other radiator on top of case 

[thekeemo]

Hi guys! I have a question about triton

I have a Triton and i have another 240mm radiator (from an h105), do you think that the pump of triton can handle both? I could put the other radiator on top of case 

I dont think you can even connect the h105 rad

[0ld_Chicken]

Hi guys! I have a question about triton

I have a Triton and i have another 240mm radiator (from an h105), do you think that the pump of triton can handle both? I could put the other radiator on top of case

If you could get the radiator securely connected (I have no idea how you would but I would probably not even try unless it has threads or something like that I'm missing) I would think that the pump strength would be a little lacking. I think it was only a 140L/hr pump if I remember correctly. I have seen pictures of a triton expanded into gpu cooling but I don't know about the performance.

I think you'd end up with about the same cooling but I could be wrong

[imthewalrus]

It is not the hoses that stink, it is the plasticiser that they used. If you added colorant to the tubing you will start noticing some fogging or smoking due to this plasticiser. air on radiators is always expected, and no it will not do any potential blocking as air does not provide any resistance in the water channels. 

[0ld_Chicken]

air on radiators is always expected, and no it will not do any potential blocking as air does not provide any resistance in the water channels.

I wouldnt worry so much in a vertical radiator setup with the hoses at the top since there is a small chamber there. But in a horizontal set up the air will equalize through the tubes at the top and liquid will flow through below that. This will work fine but you are reducing the liquid volume and surface area at least slightly. Changed my temps although not really significantly and nearly within margin of error. Although now that I've evaporated some liquid out it would probably be more significant.

[Abir Vandergriff]

Huh. I just purchased this same cooler on Saturday. (I wish I'd have known about the $85 deal...) Should be coming in either today or tomorrow, and I'm looking forward to it even more now that you've shed some light on the exact quality of the thing. I just bought it because it was the cheapest expandable, but the two people in this thread mentioning it so far seem to think it's pretty good. I'll probably post again once it comes in with my first impressions.

[Walz88]

If you could get the radiator securely connected (I have no idea how you would but I would probably not even try unless it has threads or something like that I'm missing) I would think that the pump strength would be a little lacking. I think it was only a 140L/hr pump if I remember correctly. I have seen pictures of a triton expanded into gpu cooling but I don't know about the performance.

I think you'd end up with about the same cooling but I could be wrong

I think that in some way is possible to connect (maybe with metal tie), but my doubt is precisely the pump. You're right, it is a 140L/hr and i think that i saw the same pictures on web . Triton with gpu cooling and another 120/140mm radiator

I dont think you can even connect the h105 rad

You mean for the hose connection?

[thekeemo]

I think that in some way is possible to connect (maybe with metal tie), but my doubt is precisely the pump. You're right, it is a 140L/hr and i think that i saw the same pictures on web . Triton with gpu cooling and another 120/140mm radiator

You mean for the hose connection?

yes

[0ld_Chicken]

It is not the hoses that stink, it is the plasticiser that they used. If you added colorant to the tubing you will start noticing some fogging or smoking due to this plasticiser

So changing the liquid to distilled water w/ pt nuke would eliminate the smell completely?

[imthewalrus]

So changing the liquid to distilled water w/ pt nuke would eliminate the smell completely?

No, you should replace the tuning and clean the radiators and block with something strong. Plasticizer doesn't come out easy. I would use vinegar and then something flush it a couple times with boiling water.

[Abir Vandergriff]

So I got my Triton yesterday. I upgraded from the Intel stock cooler (my budget got cut short right at the end of my build) and this thing is just amazing. However, I did run in to a few problems, since my build is mATX in an Obsidian 350D. As was covered in the LTT video (coincidence, I think not. Illuminati confirmed?) the tubing kinks incredibly easy. I had to do some serious toying with the tubes to get it to not kink, yet not be sprawled over any PCB. 

(If I end up taking a picture, I'll put it here.)

The only thing that gets me is the sticker for the warranty. I understand why they did this with the fill port, because if you are responsible for destroying the pump after putting in some stupid liquid that fills it with debris or something, that isn't their fault. However, at the same time, it makes one wonder why they have a clear version with the three dyes, but you have to void the warranty to use them? (Pre-dyed is an option though, and it's all that was available when I bought mine, so that's something, I guess.)

Anyway, over the stock cooler, my idle temps went down 10°C cooler after installing, with fans on lowest setting from the in-line fan controller. This thing is awesome, although mine came with one of the compression fittings rather loose on the rad. I was able to tighten it with my fingers, and I did so. It potentially could have leaked if I'd have not had the foresight to check the fittings. Or maybe it wouldn't have. What do I know. 

Anyway, this cooler is awesome, but the tubes are kinda long for mATX, resulting in many attempts at a kink-less run before you can actually get it. The included fans are quiet when below a certain thresh-hold, and seem to move a fair bit of air. I have my side panels off at this time so that I can see leaks right away over the next week or so, and my personal fan settings are completely drowned out by my current mashing on my Cherry MX Blue keyboard. Be weary of loose fittings if you're thinking about buying this.