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Fractal Node 804 + H110? (think twice)

Hello,,

 

I am in the proccess of building my second computer ever.  

The plan is to build in the Fractal design Node 804, and use a Corsair H110 watercooler.

 

First thing you need to know is; the H110 screw holes  are spaced out 15mm apart rather the 10mm must 280mm rads use, this is a problem because the Node 804 in the other hand uses the "standard" 10mm separation. So you will need to drill some holes if you want to hold the rad with more than 4 screws.

 

Secong thing you may want to know is; the tubing of the H110 is too short is you want to mount the 280mm rad in the PSU chamber (this is my plan). So you will have to replace the tubing os the H110 unit in order to have a better and not so tight route from the PSu chamber to the CPU.

I think the motherboard is a factor here because I saw someone using a Node804 + H105, and the tubes reach from the psu chamber to the cpu just fine.... but them I notice that his mobo had RAM slots on both sides of the cpu socket so the socket was placed more to the right of the board which could be the reason his tubes reach without a problem... eitherway, my new tubes match the color theme of my build, blue. hehe.

 

 

 

 

I will drill the new holes tonight, but I already did replace the tubing of my H110... pics below.

http://i.imgur.com/EajC9Eq http://i.imgur.com/SFm219n

http://imgur.com/5XXrKDn http://imgur.com/XYlNxRA

http://imgur.com/bK39bzP http://imgur.com/xCULWhV

Looking around,

bla bla bla this, meh that!

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just a though, how are you gonna refill the loop?

ITX Monster: CPU: I5 4690K GPU: MSI 970 4G Mobo: Asus Formula VI Impact RAM: Kingston 8 GB 1600MHz PSU: Corsair RM 650 SSD: Crucial MX100 512 GB HDD: laptop drive 1TB Keyboard: logitech G710+ Mouse: Steelseries Rival Monitor: LG IPS 23" Case: Corsair 250D Cooling: H100i

Mobile: Phone: Broken HTC One (M7) Totaly Broken OnePlus ONE Samsung S6 32GB  :wub:  Tablet: Google Nexus 7 2013 edition
 

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Those loops are sealed shut for a reason, and you've pulled off the pipes etc for an air bubble to get in and now go through your pump all the time which is bad if its a big enough one to get stuck there and make the pump run dry at a worst case scenario but the little bubbles will now make noise and make that AIO noisy too.

 

Should of gone custom loop or that AIO that allows for expansion, forgot which.

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Chernobyl

AMD FX8350 @ 5GHz | Asus Sabretooth 990FX R2 | 16GB HyperX Savage @1950mhz CL9 | 120GB Kingston SSDNow

EK AMD LTX CSQ | XSPC D5 Dual Bay | Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 240mm & Coolgate Triple HD360

 

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Kraken

Intel i5 4670K Bare Die 4.9GHz | ASUS Maximus VII Ranger Z97 | 16GB HyperX Savage 2400MHz | Samsung EVO 250GB

EK Supremecy EVO & EK-MOSFET M7G  | Dual 360mm Rads | Primochill CTR Phase II w/D5 | MSI GTX970 1670MHz/8000MHz

 

Graphic Design Student & Overall Nerd

 

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just a though, how are you gonna refill the loop?

I fill a bowl with fluid, them I manually fill the inlet tube and submerge it in the blow, them I suck (still manually) thought the outlet tube until it was half full... Them submerge it in the bowl.

After that I ran the pump, first pulsing it on and off until both tube were full, them I let it run for half hour, with the ocational shakes to make sure no air bubble is trap in the pump.

Them and while the pump was running I connect the outlet tube to the radiator and let it fill, them shake it to get air bubbles out.

After all that and hopefully no more air in the rad, I submerged the rad connectors in the fluid and connect the inlet tube to the rad...

Done, so far its running great, the sound is pretty similar of before the mod.

Looking around,

bla bla bla this, meh that!

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Those loops are sealed shut for a reason, and you've pulled off the pipes etc for an air bubble to get in and now go through your pump all the time which is bad if its a big enough one to get stuck there and make the pump run dry at a worst case scenario but the little bubbles will now make noise and make that AIO noisy too.

Should of gone custom loop or that AIO that allows for expansion, forgot which.

They come seal so the not so DIYer users toss them when one element of the loop fails. And to make it easier for the companies to control the whole product.

Functionally speaking the is not diff seal or not seal, you just have to take your time when filling it up. Also you can add a reservoir which makes the refill a piece of cake.

Looking around,

bla bla bla this, meh that!

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They come seal so the not so DIYer users toss them when one element of the loop fails. And to make it easier for the companies to control the whole product.

Functionally speaking the is not diff seal or not seal, you just have to take your time when filling it up. Also you can add a reservoir which makes the refill a piece of cake.

Well I tip my hat to you sir, the way I would of filled it would of been far too complex, my only comeback question is, how strong is the pump if you wanted to add a res and fittings they all effect the flow rate etc so that would bother me slightly.

 

I hope you filled that loop with distilled water and some form of anti corrosion mixture?

Spoiler

Chernobyl

AMD FX8350 @ 5GHz | Asus Sabretooth 990FX R2 | 16GB HyperX Savage @1950mhz CL9 | 120GB Kingston SSDNow

EK AMD LTX CSQ | XSPC D5 Dual Bay | Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 240mm & Coolgate Triple HD360

 

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Kraken

Intel i5 4670K Bare Die 4.9GHz | ASUS Maximus VII Ranger Z97 | 16GB HyperX Savage 2400MHz | Samsung EVO 250GB

EK Supremecy EVO & EK-MOSFET M7G  | Dual 360mm Rads | Primochill CTR Phase II w/D5 | MSI GTX970 1670MHz/8000MHz

 

Graphic Design Student & Overall Nerd

 

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-snip-

baller, ive seen it done before, but imo id rather have a fully custom loop once you put 'all that effort' in it,

ITX Monster: CPU: I5 4690K GPU: MSI 970 4G Mobo: Asus Formula VI Impact RAM: Kingston 8 GB 1600MHz PSU: Corsair RM 650 SSD: Crucial MX100 512 GB HDD: laptop drive 1TB Keyboard: logitech G710+ Mouse: Steelseries Rival Monitor: LG IPS 23" Case: Corsair 250D Cooling: H100i

Mobile: Phone: Broken HTC One (M7) Totaly Broken OnePlus ONE Samsung S6 32GB  :wub:  Tablet: Google Nexus 7 2013 edition
 

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Well I tip my hat to you sir, the way I would of filled it would of been far too complex, my only comeback question is, how strong is the pump if you wanted to add a res and fittings they all effect the flow rate etc so that would bother me slightly.

 

I hope you filled that loop with distilled water and some form of anti corrosion mixture?

 

- It was easy once I set it all up for the task, I mean fix the tubes to the bowl so they dont move over the fluid and suck air.... also have a big enough bowl to submerge the rad (just part of it)   a PSU with a molex adaptor to run the pump....

- Well, I didn't measure the flow rate.

- Yep, I use distilled water + my car coolant (it should have all the anticorrotion stuff need.

 

 

baller, ive seen it done before, but imo id rather have a fully custom loop once you put 'all that effort' in it,

 

This was my first water cooler experience, so I went the cheap route (since the unit was bought used).  Also since I am in a crappy country with no real dealer of computer parts let alone custom water cooler parts, I have to take advantage of the little I can find.

 

You cant Imagine how much I pay to import all the parts I need for the pc I am putting together. (I think that money would buy me a good custom loop, for sure)

Looking around,

bla bla bla this, meh that!

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- It was easy once I set it all up for the task, I mean fix the tubes to the bowl so they dont move over the fluid and suck air.... also have a big enough bowl to submerge the rad (just part of it)   a PSU with a molex adaptor to run the pump....

- Well, I didn't measure the flow rate.

- Yep, I use distilled water + my car coolant (it should have all the anticorrotion stuff need.

Cars use aluminium rads etc so I would be a bit unsure about using additives for that metal seeing as you shouldn't mix copper and aluminium.

Spoiler

Chernobyl

AMD FX8350 @ 5GHz | Asus Sabretooth 990FX R2 | 16GB HyperX Savage @1950mhz CL9 | 120GB Kingston SSDNow

EK AMD LTX CSQ | XSPC D5 Dual Bay | Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 240mm & Coolgate Triple HD360

 

Spoiler

Kraken

Intel i5 4670K Bare Die 4.9GHz | ASUS Maximus VII Ranger Z97 | 16GB HyperX Savage 2400MHz | Samsung EVO 250GB

EK Supremecy EVO & EK-MOSFET M7G  | Dual 360mm Rads | Primochill CTR Phase II w/D5 | MSI GTX970 1670MHz/8000MHz

 

Graphic Design Student & Overall Nerd

 

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Cars use aluminium rads etc so I would be a bit unsure about using additives for that metal seeing as you shouldn't mix copper and aluminium.

this rad is aluminum,, the block is copper thou, so I time will tell.

Looking around,

bla bla bla this, meh that!

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