Speedbird's review of the Noctua NH-U14S

[Speedbird]

Hello and welcome to my review of Noctua's NH-U14S CPU cooler.

 

Introduction

 

The NH-U14S is designed with RAM compatibilty in mind. On the box, it's advertised to be compatible with all RAM on the LGA2011 socket and it should be good on other sockets. However, that's not what I needed from this cooler. In fact, I just needed some good cooler so I can overclock my CPU and have less noise. So why didn't I get the Hyper 212 EVO? Well, I just wanted to try Noctua this time. Everybody seems to praise their build quality, ease of installation and low noise. So I thought I'd give it a try.

 

Unboxing

 

This is what the box looks like:

As you can see, Noctua advertises full RAM compatibilty on LGA2011 and reasonable size for better overall compatibilty

 

Here's what you find when you open her up:

2 boxes containing the SecuFirm2 mounting system (which is universal across most Noctua coolers) and the accessory box

 

In the Intel box you'll find the backplate, mounting bars, screws and instructions. This is compatible with LGA115X and LGA2011-X, but if you're using it for 1366 or even 775, you can order the older SecuFirm hardware at their site.

 

Inside the AMD box are the mounting bars and screws. Noctua uses the stock AMD backplate found on most motherboards, but double-check at http://noctua.at/main.php?show=compatibility_mb&lng=en if your motherboard supports it. It should be compatible with AM2 and up, including FM1, FM2 and FM2+

 

And here's the cooler itself with the NF-A15 fan.

 

Installation (on FM2+)

 

Remove the stock cooler and clean the CPU.

Unscrew the stock AMD retention module

Now, you might hear the backplate pop off, and that's why the next part is the tricky part. You need to attach the backplate back to the board, now using Noctua's mounting hardware. I found that the easiest way to do this without removing the motherboard was to lay the case down (with the CPU facing up), stick your hand behind the motherboard tray, and hold the backplate steady while using the other hand to put a spacer in one hole and screwing the cooler to it, also attaching one corner of the backplate. Here's the first corner installed.

Continue the installation of the first mounting bar by adding another spacer, then screwing the bar through it. Do the same with the other bar. Here's the end result with thermal past applied.

SecuFirm2 is now installed. The actual cooler installation is very easy. First, dry fit the cooler without thermal paste. This will allow you to make sure that it has enough clearance. Now, apply the thermal paste of your choice (the included NT-H1 is good) any way you wish (I prefer the pea method), remove the fan from the heatsink, and place the heatsink on the CPU. Start screwing it in, do about 3 turns with one screw, then switch. Repeat until it's tight. Now reinstall the fan and connect it to the 4-pin CPU fan header in your board.

As you can see, I got plenty of RAM clearance on my board.

 

Before:

After:

 

Performance

 

Now, I can't really compare it with a ton of coolers really, but I can compare it with the AMD stock cooler.

 

AMD Stock HSF

Idle: 31C

Load (Prime95 Blend): 59C

 

Noctua NH-U14S

Idle: 31C

Load: (Prime95 Blend): 32C

 

Yes... 32C... It's that good, and also very quiet. Unfortunately, I forgot to record a noise sample of the AMD HSF, so I can't really compare noise with that.

 

Well, that's it for now. Thanks for reading.

 

[Levent]

holy shit thats real good I might replace my messed up 212 evo with this one 

[Geekazoid]

It looks like you forgot to put a couple of photos in spoilers . They're quite large.

[Speedbird]

It looks like you forgot to put a couple of photos in spoilers . They're quite large.

OK, fixing it now. Thanks.

[flibberdipper]

Me likey. Time to start looking for one.

[Geekazoid]

OK, fixing it now. Thanks.

Swoit!

[LemonSpice]

Hello and welcome to my review of Noctua's NH-U14S CPU cooler.

 

Introduction

 

The NH-U14S is designed with RAM compatibilty in mind. On the box, it's advertised to be compatible with all RAM on the LGA2011 socket and it should be good on other sockets. However, that's not what I needed from this cooler. In fact, I just needed some good cooler so I can overclock my CPU and have less noise. So why didn't I get the Hyper 212 EVO? Well, I just wanted to try Noctua this time. Everybody seems to praise their build quality, ease of installation and low noise. So I thought I'd give it a try.

 

Unboxing

 

This is what the box looks like:

IMAG0011_BURST002.jpg

As you can see, Noctua advertises full RAM compatibilty on LGA2011 and reasonable size for better overall compatibilty

 

Here's what you find when you open her up:

IMAG0012_BURST003.jpg

2 boxes containing the SecuFirm2 mounting system (which is universal across most Noctua coolers) and the accessory box

 

IMAG0013.jpg

In the Intel box you'll find the backplate, mounting bars, screws and instructions. This is compatible with LGA115X and LGA2011-X, but if you're using it for 1366 or even 775, you can order the older SecuFirm hardware at their site.

 

IMAG0015_BURST003.jpg

Inside the AMD box are the mounting bars and screws. Noctua uses the stock AMD backplate found on most motherboards, but double-check at http://noctua.at/main.php?show=compatibility_mb&lng=en if your motherboard supports it. It should be compatible with AM2 and up, including FM1, FM2 and FM2+

 

And here's the cooler itself with the NF-A15 fan.

IMAG0018.jpg

 

Installation (on FM2+)

 

Remove the stock cooler and clean the CPU.

IMAG0020.jpg

Unscrew the stock AMD retention module

IMAG0021.jpg

Now, you might hear the backplate pop off, and that's why the next part is the tricky part. You need to attach the backplate back to the board, now using Noctua's mounting hardware. I found that the easiest way to do this without removing the motherboard was to lay the case down (with the CPU facing up), stick your hand behind the motherboard tray, and hold the backplate steady while using the other hand to put a spacer in one hole and screwing the cooler to it, also attaching one corner of the backplate. Here's the first corner installed.

IMAG0022.jpg

Continue the installation of the first mounting bar by adding another spacer, then screwing the bar through it. Do the same with the other bar. Here's the end result with thermal past applied.

IMAG0024.jpg

SecuFirm2 is now installed. The actual cooler installation is very easy. First, dry fit the cooler without thermal paste. This will allow you to make sure that it has enough clearance. Now, apply the thermal paste of your choice (the included NT-H1 is good) any way you wish (I prefer the pea method), remove the fan from the heatsink, and place the heatsink on the CPU. Start screwing it in, do about 3 turns with one screw, then switch. Repeat until it's tight. Now reinstall the fan and connect it to the 4-pin CPU fan header in your board.

As you can see, I got plenty of RAM clearance on my board.

IMAG0028.jpg

 

Before:

IMAG0010_BURST001.jpg

After:

IMAG0029.jpg

 

Performance

 

Now, I can't really compare it with a ton of coolers really, but I can compare it with the AMD stock cooler.

 

AMD Stock HSF

Idle: 31C

Load (Prime95 Blend): 59C

 

Noctua NH-U14S

Idle: 31C

Load: (Prime95 Blend): 32C

 

Yes... 32C... It's that good, and also very quiet. Unfortunately, I forgot to record a noise sample of the AMD HSF, so I can't really compare noise with that.

 

Well, that's it for now. Thanks for reading.

nice this is great news also what is that application method called it looks like a radiation warning sticker

[Speedbird]

nice this is great news also what is that application method called it looks like a radiation warning sticker

It was my attempt at the pea method

[Victor Yiu]

.

[Aniallation]

I find it really hard to believe that P95 load is only 1 degree higher then idle if ambient temp and other testing conditions were the same. If you could strap that cooler to my phone's CPU somehow, it would still heat up more then 1 degree under idle vs stress testing load.

[Speedbird]

What are you ambient temperatures? This is all meaningless without it.

About 20C

[ManWithBeard1990]

Now that's a good air cooler. Better than my 212 can manage: It does 53 degrees load in OCCT. Were you running stock settings?

[Speedbird]

Now that's a good air cooler. Better than my 212 can manage: It does 53 degrees load in OCCT. Were you running stock settings?

Yes.

[ManWithBeard1990]

Still a great result though, didn't expect it to do that good.

[Jumper118]

Hello and welcome to my review of Noctua's NH-U14S CPU cooler.

 

Introduction

 

The NH-U14S is designed with RAM compatibilty in mind. On the box, it's advertised to be compatible with all RAM on the LGA2011 socket and it should be good on other sockets. However, that's not what I needed from this cooler. In fact, I just needed some good cooler so I can overclock my CPU and have less noise. So why didn't I get the Hyper 212 EVO? Well, I just wanted to try Noctua this time. Everybody seems to praise their build quality, ease of installation and low noise. So I thought I'd give it a try.

 

Unboxing

 

This is what the box looks like:

IMAG0011_BURST002.jpg

As you can see, Noctua advertises full RAM compatibilty on LGA2011 and reasonable size for better overall compatibilty

 

Here's what you find when you open her up:

IMAG0012_BURST003.jpg

2 boxes containing the SecuFirm2 mounting system (which is universal across most Noctua coolers) and the accessory box

 

IMAG0013.jpg

In the Intel box you'll find the backplate, mounting bars, screws and instructions. This is compatible with LGA115X and LGA2011-X, but if you're using it for 1366 or even 775, you can order the older SecuFirm hardware at their site.

 

IMAG0015_BURST003.jpg

Inside the AMD box are the mounting bars and screws. Noctua uses the stock AMD backplate found on most motherboards, but double-check at http://noctua.at/main.php?show=compatibility_mb&lng=en if your motherboard supports it. It should be compatible with AM2 and up, including FM1, FM2 and FM2+

 

And here's the cooler itself with the NF-A15 fan.

IMAG0018.jpg

 

Installation (on FM2+)

 

Remove the stock cooler and clean the CPU.

IMAG0020.jpg

Unscrew the stock AMD retention module

IMAG0021.jpg

Now, you might hear the backplate pop off, and that's why the next part is the tricky part. You need to attach the backplate back to the board, now using Noctua's mounting hardware. I found that the easiest way to do this without removing the motherboard was to lay the case down (with the CPU facing up), stick your hand behind the motherboard tray, and hold the backplate steady while using the other hand to put a spacer in one hole and screwing the cooler to it, also attaching one corner of the backplate. Here's the first corner installed.

IMAG0022.jpg

Continue the installation of the first mounting bar by adding another spacer, then screwing the bar through it. Do the same with the other bar. Here's the end result with thermal past applied.

IMAG0024.jpg

SecuFirm2 is now installed. The actual cooler installation is very easy. First, dry fit the cooler without thermal paste. This will allow you to make sure that it has enough clearance. Now, apply the thermal paste of your choice (the included NT-H1 is good) any way you wish (I prefer the pea method), remove the fan from the heatsink, and place the heatsink on the CPU. Start screwing it in, do about 3 turns with one screw, then switch. Repeat until it's tight. Now reinstall the fan and connect it to the 4-pin CPU fan header in your board.

As you can see, I got plenty of RAM clearance on my board.

IMAG0028.jpg

 

Before:

IMAG0010_BURST001.jpg

After:

IMAG0029.jpg

 

Performance

 

Now, I can't really compare it with a ton of coolers really, but I can compare it with the AMD stock cooler.

 

AMD Stock HSF

Idle: 31C

Load (Prime95 Blend): 59C

 

Noctua NH-U14S

Idle: 31C

Load: (Prime95 Blend): 32C

 

Yes... 32C... It's that good, and also very quiet. Unfortunately, I forgot to record a noise sample of the AMD HSF, so I can't really compare noise with that.

 

Well, that's it for now. Thanks for reading.

those temps seem too low. i think you need to overclock and add more voltage

[Speedbird]

those temps seem too low. i think you need to overclock and add more voltage

I did.

[Jumper118]

I did.

how much?

[Speedbird]

how much?

4.3 GHz, 1.608V

[Jumper118]

4.3 GHz, 1.608V

and its still 32c

[Opcode]

It was my attempt at the pea method

Some constructive criticism, that pretzel may cost you a few degrees. You're basically opening up the paste to air pockets (hot spots) directly over the where the die meets the IHS. The pea method is just a simple dot, you hold still and squeeze until you have a dot. Not the size of a pea as that's simply too much (less is more) but more along the lines of in between a BB and a pea.

[Speedbird]

and its still 32c

Nope, about 57C.

[Jumper118]

Nope, about 57C.

thats better

[Brood]

Unrelated to OP's post but, what processor are you gonna put in your H81M-P33? I'm thinking of doing a build with the same mobo with the G3258 and was thinking if it would OC to like 4.0-4.2 (Stock cooler first) then 4.4 when I get a cooler same as yours.

[Speedbird]

Unrelated to OP's post but, what processor are you gonna put in your H81M-P33? I'm thinking of doing a build with the same mobo with the G3258 and was thinking if it would OC to like 4.0-4.2 (Stock cooler first) then 4.4 when I get a cooler same as yours.

G3258, but it's not my PC. It will be for my grandparents.

[Brood]

G3258, but it's not my PC. It will be for my grandparents.

Have u tried OC-ing it? I'm kinda anxious since it's my first PC Build and don't wanna regret any of my buys. 8D

Sorry if out of topic again