Hydro Series HG10. Will it be worth it?

[WhiteSkyMage]

With G10, u run problems with VRM. Dont use it. Wait for the Corsair bracket and use that. Corsair at least isnt so careless about giving you something to cool VRMs...

[riad]

With G10, u run problems with VRM. Dont use it. Wait for the Corsair bracket and use that. Corsair at least isnt so careless about giving you something to cool VRMs...

Ya but will the G10 be compatible with my EVGA titans?

[Faceman]

With G10, u run problems with VRM. Dont use it. Wait for the Corsair bracket and use that. Corsair at least isnt so careless about giving you something to cool VRMs...

The G10 is really not bad for the VRMs.  It is only 1 program that is bad for the VRMs, everything else the temperatures are lower.  And to be safe, you can spend $10 extra, (the difference in price G10 to HG10) and get heatsinks to place all over your card.

 

We haven't even seen the performance of the Corsair HG10, and it is only compatible with a select number of cards, whereas the G10 is compatible with a wide range of cards.

 

The G10 is a viable option considering the cost and performance gains.

[Faceman]

Ya but will the G10 be compatible with my EVGA titans?

Yes, the G10 is compatible with EVGA Titans.

[riad]

Yes, the G10 is compatible with EVGA Titans.

With the backplates i have or do i need to remove it?

[spwath]

Wait a sec... Hg10??? Copying nzxt g10?? Am I missing some thing?

[WhiteSkyMage]

The G10 is really not bad for the VRMs. It is only 1 program that is bad for the VRMs, everything else the temperatures are lower. And to be safe, you can spend $10 extra, (the difference in price G10 to HG10) and get heatsinks to place all over your card.

We haven't even seen the performance of the Corsair HG10, and it is only compatible with a select number of cards, whereas the G10 is compatible with a wide range of cards.

The G10 is a viable option considering the cost and performance gains.

You think Corsair will not make it compatible with wide range of cards? I really think thats a little on the unlikely side - Corsair will try to compete with that G10 in any way possible. I dont think they will just leave up a product like that carelessly

[Faceman]

You think Corsair will not make it compatible with wide range of cards? I really think thats a little on the unlikely side - Corsair will try to compete with that G10 in any way possible. I dont think they will just leave up a product like that carelessly

Read their press release from June.  Compatible with Reference, Revision N1 Cards only at launch, with more cards/designs to be added later.

[Faceman]

With the backplates i have or do i need to remove it?

You can keep the backplates on... I went over all this in an earlier post.  You can even go into my gallery and see the G10 Modification Album.

[riad]

You can keep the backplates on... I went over all this in an earlier post.  You can even go into my gallery and see the G10 Modification Album.

shit, i meant if i could keep the backplate on with the HG10 not G10.

[Faceman]

shit, i meant if i could keep the backplate on with the HG10 not G10.

Oh, that I do not know.

[Faceman]

@riad

 

By the way, here is a picture of my Rig with the G10 Mod:

[WhiteSkyMage]

...with more cards/designs to be added later.

I'm happy to wait for them then

[Faceman]

I'm happy to wait for them then

If you would like to wait for them, that is your prerogative, but I think you are misunderstanding the VRM Cooling *problem*.

 

     This is the review that often gets pointed at when VRM Cooling is talked about with the G10.  They don't have sensors on their Nvidia card, so they used Infrared pictures.  As you can see, during Unigine Heaven, which is a very realistic gaming scenario the G10 actually cools the VRAM and VRMs better than the stock Titan cooler.  It isn't until Furmark/Kombustor is used that VRM temperature gets to an unsafe level.  Furmark/Kombustor is an application that should NEVER be used on a graphics card, it places far too much unnecessary stress on the GPU and it will break your card.  This is an uncommon occurrence, but it happens enough that it should never be used. 

 

     I personally had a card break because of Kombustor.  I had an MSI GTX 770 Lightning, I used it for two weeks perfectly before deciding to overclock because you want to give your components "break-in" time before overclocking, at least this is the philosophy I adhere to.  When doing my initial benchmarks and stress tests at stock settings, Kombustor was the 3rd test I ran behind Unigine Heaven, and the Metro:Last Light Benchmark.  After 6 minutes in Kombustor the card bricked.  I am not the first person to have this happen. 

 

     Kombustor/Furmark is a card killer, so using their test as a reference when talking about VRM and VRAM temperatures of the G10 you must understand that it is an unrealistic and dangerous test and no real world scenario will ever put that amount of heat and load onto your card.  Of course it is always a good idea to prepare for the worst and hope for the best, another philosophy I live by... Even though I never plan to run Kombustor/Furmark, and my GPU already comes with a passive heatsink for the VRMs and VRAM I decided to add $10 worth of heat sinks just to be safe.  These heat sinks are easily removable, and drop your VRM temperatures by up to 20C, VRAM only fell by 12C but VRAM is not an issue to begin with, the *problem* is the VRMs.  A member on OC.net's G10 Owner's Club ran some tests with his Asus GTX 780 Matrix, one of the few Nvidia cars that comes with sensors for the VRMs and VRAM.  He did a before and after test in FURMARK-Yes, the guy used the dangerous problem even when I told him not to.  His VRM temperatures in Furmark without the Heatsinks were maxing out at 77C(which was the same as with the DCUII Cooler), after adding heat sinks he was down to 56C.  These are very good temperatures for the VRMs even without heat sinks.

 

     In conclusion, by all means, wait for the HG10 to be released,  and then wait further for a compatible model with your specific card.  For all we know, it could reduce VRM temperatures be an exorbitant amount and will be far and away a much better option than the G10.  I am personally excited to see how the HG10 performs because waiting for the HG10 was my initial plan, but after two delays, compatibility issues, and more research on the G10, I decided to wait no more and I am incredibly happy with my decision.  In the mean time, the Kraken G10 is an incredible option to water cool your GPU.  The only *problem* that ever arises is a software issue, not a hardware issue.  It is as simple as avoiding that one program which has been known to kill perfectly normal and healthy cards.  If you would like to be sure that no issue will ever arise with your VRMs, it is as simple as spending $10 on Aluminum Heat Sinks(20 count) and Double Sided Adhesive Thermal Tape.

[riad]

If you would like to wait for them, that is your prerogative, but I think you are misunderstanding the VRM Cooling *problem*.

 

     This is the review that often gets pointed at when VRM Cooling is talked about with the G10.  They don't have sensors on their Nvidia card, so they used Infrared pictures.  As you can see, during Unigine Heaven, which is a very realistic gaming scenario the G10 actually cools the VRAM and VRMs better than the stock Titan cooler.  It isn't until Furmark/Kombustor is used that VRM temperature gets to an unsafe level.  Furmark/Kombustor is an application that should NEVER be used on a graphics card, it places far too much unnecessary stress on the GPU and it will break your card.  This is an uncommon occurrence, but it happens enough that it should never be used. 

 

     I personally had a card break because of Kombustor.  I had an MSI GTX 770 Lightning, I used it for two weeks perfectly before deciding to overclock because you want to give your components "break-in" time before overclocking, at least this is the philosophy I adhere to.  When doing my initial benchmarks and stress tests at stock settings, Kombustor was the 3rd test I ran behind Unigine Heaven, and the Metro:Last Light Benchmark.  After 6 minutes in Kombustor the card bricked.  I am not the first person to have this happen. 

 

     Kombustor/Furmark is a card killer, so using their test as a reference when talking about VRM and VRAM temperatures of the G10 you must understand that it is an unrealistic and dangerous test and no real world scenario will ever put that amount of heat and load onto your card.  Of course it is always a good idea to prepare for the worst and hope for the best, another philosophy I live by... Even though I never plan to run Kombustor/Furmark, and my GPU already comes with a passive heatsink for the VRMs and VRAM I decided to add $10 worth of heat sinks just to be safe.  These heat sinks are easily removable, and drop your VRM temperatures by up to 20C, VRAM only fell by 12C but VRAM is not an issue to begin with, the *problem* is the VRMs.  A member on OC.net's G10 Owner's Club ran some tests with his Asus GTX 780 Matrix, one of the few Nvidia cars that comes with sensors for the VRMs and VRAM.  He did a before and after test in FURMARK-Yes, the guy used the dangerous problem even when I told him not to.  His VRM temperatures in Furmark without the Heatsinks were maxing out at 77C(which was the same as with the DCUII Cooler), after adding heat sinks he was down to 56C.  These are very good temperatures for the VRMs even without heat sinks.

 

     In conclusion, by all means, wait for the HG10 to be released,  and then wait further for a compatible model with your specific card.  For all we know, it could reduce VRM temperatures be an exorbitant amount and will be far and away a much better option than the G10.  I am personally excited to see how the HG10 performs because waiting for the HG10 was my initial plan, but after two delays, compatibility issues, and more research on the G10, I decided to wait no more and I am incredibly happy with my decision.  In the mean time, the Kraken G10 is an incredible option to water cool your GPU.  The only *problem* that ever arises is a software issue, not a hardware issue.  It is as simple as avoiding that one program which has been known to kill perfectly normal and healthy cards.  If you would like to be sure that no issue will ever arise with your VRMs, it is as simple as spending $10 on Aluminum Heat Sinks(20 count) and Double Sided Adhesive Thermal Tape.

Okay, all things considered, i have a few last questions, first of all, why do you need to replace the stock thermal adhesive with those aluminum heat sinks. Second, you linked me to copper ones, do i still need to use those or what? Third, you also linked a copper plate in an earlier post, what do you use it for? 

[Faceman]

Okay, all things considered, i have a few last questions, first of all, why do you need to replace the stock thermal adhesive with those aluminum heat sinks. Second, you linked me to copper ones, do i still need to use those or what? Third, you also linked a copper plate in an earlier post, what do you use it for? 

You have to replace the stock thermal adhesive tape on both copper and aluminum heat sinks if you decide to use both because they are not very sticky.  People on the G10 Owner's Club who used the stock thermal tape have reported that their heat sinks are falling off the next day-the copper ones.  The aluminum ones are probably fine, because they are much lighter than copper.   I used the Sekisui Thermal Tape that I linked to you, and haven't had a single one fall, copper or aluminum.  It is also probably a better material and transfers heat much better.

 

Thinking about it, I think you could skip the copper ones around the VRAM because the VRAM doesn't get hot, its only the VRMs that get hot.

 

The Copper Shim is required for the AIO to make proper contact with the GPU Die.  The base plate that passively cools the VRMs gets in the way of the cooler making proper contact, so a copper shim must be used.  The alternative is to cut down and modify the base plate.  Something I don't recommend because it will void your warranty.

 

^^^^Do you see the 4 prong-like screw holes that are close to the GPU's Die?  Those get in the way of the AIO making proper contact  You have to either remove them like in the picture below, or you use a copper shim placed on top of the GPU's core with thermal paste on both sides.  I did the Copper Shim method, and it has worked perfectly.

 

You see in this picture how the guy removed the 4 prongs so that his cooler would sit flush.  He got it to work, but he voided his warranty when he did this.  Copper Shim method is the way to go.

[riad]

You have to replace the stock thermal adhesive tape on both copper and aluminum heat sinks if you decide to use both because they are not very sticky.  People on the G10 Owner's Club who used the stock thermal tape have reported that their heat sinks are falling off the next day-the copper ones.  The aluminum ones are probably fine, because they are much lighter than copper.   I used the Sekisui Thermal Tape that I linked to you, and haven't had a single one fall, copper or aluminum.  It is also probably a better material and transfers heat much better.

 

Thinking about it, I think you could skip the copper ones around the VRAM because the VRAM doesn't get hot, its only the VRMs that get hot.

 

The Copper Shim is required for the AIO to make proper contact with the GPU Die.  The base plate that passively cools the VRMs gets in the way of the cooler making proper contact, so a copper shim must be used.  The alternative is to cut down and modify the base plate.  Something I don't recommend because it will void your warranty.

 

^^^^Do you see the 4 prong-like screw holes that are close to the GPU's Die?  Those get in the way of the AIO making proper contact  You have to either remove them like in the picture below, or you use a copper shim placed on top of the GPU's core with thermal paste on both sides.  I did the Copper Shim method, and it has worked perfectly.

 

You see in this picture how the guy removed the 4 prongs so that his cooler would sit flush.  He got it to work, but he voided his warranty when he did this.  Copper Shim method is the way to go.

Alright, i get what you're saying 100% now. What's the best thermal paste for both cpu and gpu? So far i have Artic silver 5. What is a good thermal adhesive you can recommend for me on Amazon? I have problems using ebay. Also, is there a guide showing you how to place the heat sinks on the TITANS? Is this a good amazon replacement for the copper shims?http://www.amazon.com/0-8mm-Heatsink-Thermal-Copper-Laptop/dp/B007PPEUXQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1409725653&sr=8-4&keywords=copper+thermal+shim  Thanks for your help soo far. 

One last thing about your mod, I notice 3 Copper plates highlighted in red can you tell me what those 3 are for? Also, i assume you just mounted the green highlighted copper pads OVER the baseplate on the VRAM? If so, what if my titan doesn't come with a faceplate, do i negate the Copper SHIM for the Core and just place the heat sinks on it directly? Also why use aluminium sinks for the VRM? SORRY for all the questions i'm just very cautious about these kinda things.

[Faceman]

Alright, i get what you're saying 100% now. What's the best thermal paste for both cpu and gpu? So far i have Artic silver 5. What is a good thermal adhesive you can recommend for me on Amazon? I have problems using ebay. Also, is there a guide showing you how to place the heat sinks on the TITANS? Is this a good amazon replacement for the copper shims?http://www.amazon.com/0-8mm-Heatsink-Thermal-Copper-Laptop/dp/B007PPEUXQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1409725653&sr=8-4&keywords=copper+thermal+shim  Thanks for your help soo far. 

elast thing about your mod, I notice 3 Copper plates highlighted in red can you tell me what those 3 are for? Also, i assume you just mounted the green highlighted copper pads OVER the baseplate on the VRAM? If so, what if my titan doesn't come with a faceplate, do i negate the Copper SHIM for the Core and just place the heat sinks on it directly? Also why use aluminium sinks for the VRM? SORRY for all the questions i'm just very cautious about these kinda things.

Its good that you ask questions, better than a lot of people who would rather jump in, not read the manual and just fail miserably and give the product a bad rating because of their own shortcomings. I asked all of these questions myself before buying, and I'm happy to help you figure it out too.

 

For starters, if your Titan doesn't come with a base plate, you will not need a copper shim.  If you do need a copper shim for whatever reason, get the 20mm x 20mm x .8mm one on Amazon.

 

Arctic Silver 5 is not a good thermal compound, it is very old and it is conductive, which is on the more dangerous side.  I personally use Gelid GC Extreme, it is about $11 per 3.5g.  There are less expensive options out there.  Noctua NH-1, IC Diamond 7, Prolimatek-PK1, MX-4 are all good alternatives, they will all be within 1C difference of each other.  You could continue to use the AS5 if you wanted, but it is conductive, so if it gets on any of the circuitry, kiss your computer bye bye because you run the risk of it shorting out.

 

Don't use a thermal adhesive, if you use a thermal adhesive, it is permanent, and you don't want that.  Get some double-sided adhesive thermal tape.  I'm looking on Amazon and I cannot find any good kind that is cheap.  I actually bought a lot more of the thermal tape than I needed, so if you send me your address in a private message, I will be happy to send you the proper thermal tape, and I will send enough of it.  No cost, just happy to help, it can be sent in a standard envelope so it will only cost me 50c to mail it.

 

The 3 Copper Heat Sinks in red that you highlighted were just precautionary.  I had extra copper heat sinks, there looked to be open space, so I said to myself, its not like it is bad to put more on there, so I added them for the heck of it.  I used aluminum heat sinks on the VRMs because they are more fragile, and didn't have as much surface area, so I was worried that the copper ones would fall off if I placed them on such a small base. The copper heatsinks are kind of heavy, much more heavy than aluminum, so I decided to skip the "see if the copper ones work or not" step and went right for something that I knew would work, and would work well. I don't know this for sure, I just kind of went with it and haven't had any problems.  I think it looks much more tidy as well.

 

If your Titan doesn't come with a base plate, you will apply the heat sinks directly to the VRAM.

[riad]

Its good that you ask questions, better than a lot of people who would rather jump in, not read the manual and just fail miserably and give the product a bad rating because of their own shortcomings. I asked all of these questions myself before buying, and I'm happy to help you figure it out too.

 

For starters, if your Titan doesn't come with a base plate, you will not need a copper shim.  If you do need a copper shim for whatever reason, get the 20mm x 20mm x .8mm one on Amazon.

 

Arctic Silver 5 is not a good thermal compound, it is very old and it is conductive, which is on the more dangerous side.  I personally use Gelid GC Extreme, it is about $11 per 3.5g.  There are less expensive options out there.  Noctua NH-1, IC Diamond 7, Prolimatek-PK1, MX-4 are all good alternatives, they will all be within 1C difference of each other.  You could continue to use the AS5 if you wanted, but it is conductive, so if it gets on any of the circuitry, kiss your computer bye bye because you run the risk of it shorting out.

 

Don't use a thermal adhesive, if you use a thermal adhesive, it is permanent, and you don't want that.  Get some double-sided adhesive thermal tape.  I'm looking on Amazon and I cannot find any good kind that is cheap.  I actually bought a lot more of the thermal tape than I needed, so if you send me your address in a private message, I will be happy to send you the proper thermal tape, and I will send enough of it.  No cost, just happy to help, it can be sent in a standard envelope so it will only cost me 50c to mail it.

 

The 3 Copper Heat Sinks in red that you highlighted were just precautionary.  I had extra copper heat sinks, there looked to be open space, so I said to myself, its not like it is bad to put more on there, so I added them for the heck of it.  I used aluminum heat sinks on the VRMs because they are more fragile, and didn't have as much surface area, so I was worried that the copper ones would fall off if I placed them on such a small base. The copper heatsinks are kind of heavy, much more heavy than aluminum, so I decided to skip the "see if the copper ones work or not" step and went right for something that I knew would work, and would work well. I don't know this for sure, I just kind of went with it and haven't had any problems.  I think it looks much more tidy as well.

 

If your Titan doesn't come with a base plate, you will apply the heat sinks directly to the VRAM.

Thanks soo much for the infomation, i was wondering what cleaning kit i should buy and i was wondering if you think this one is good 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007TOR08/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A119K31BOSN2QF

As for the copper heatsinks, i am purchasing 3 packs for my 2 TITANS, i figure that would be enough with a little extra to spare. 

As for the aluminium heatsinks how much packs would i have to buy for the 2 cards? I only put 1 in my cart as it has 20 pieces but if i need more let me know. 

I'm also looking for a cooler for the X10, i've read that the corsair H55 is a no brainer which i wouldn't mind but i would buy a Kraken X40 or x41 if i knew it was possible to mount on my HDD cages for my 900D. Do you think i should get a Kraken or just stick to the standard 120mm AIO and play it safe.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009VV56TY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Also, i you said you bought an adapter to use the G10 fan from the GPU's header, can you link that for me? 

Thanks!

[Faceman]

Thanks soo much for the infomation, i was wondering what cleaning kit i should buy and i was wondering if you think this one is good 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007TOR08/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A119K31BOSN2QF

As for the copper heatsinks, i am purchasing 3 packs for my 2 TITANS, i figure that would be enough with a little extra to spare. 

As for the aluminium heatsinks how much packs would i have to buy for the 2 cards? I only put 1 in my cart as it has 20 pieces but if i need more let me know. 

I'm also looking for a cooler for the X10, i've read that the corsair H55 is a no brainer which i wouldn't mind but i would buy a Kraken X40 or x41 if i knew it was possible to mount on my HDD cages for my 900D. Do you think i should get a Kraken or just stick to the standard 120mm AIO and play it safe.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009VV56TY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Also, i you said you bought an adapter to use the G10 fan from the GPU's header, can you link that for me? 

Thanks!

You just need some Isopropyl Alcohol for cleaning anything.  90% or higher.  I like 90% because it evaporates quickly.

 

3 Packs will be perfect for 2 Titans.  12 VRAM chips on each. 1 Pack of the Aluminum will be enough for both.  Send me your home address in a personal message and I will mail you the Sekisui Thermal Tape if you live in the US.

You can get the X31/X41 if it will fit in your chassis.  The bast place to mount it is the rear exhaust in the back of your case.  Is it worth it over the H55?  I personally don't think so.  The CAM software is a mess.  That being said, the Kraken AIOs have much longer hoses than the H55s, which may be necessary depending on the size of your case, where you are mounting them, and because you have 2 GPUs.  Could you take a picture of the inside of your computer so I can see the layout and give advice on where I would place the coolers.

[riad]

You just need some Isopropyl Alcohol for cleaning anything.  90% or higher.  I like 90% because it evaporates quickly.

 

3 Packs will be perfect for 2 Titans.  12 VRAM chips on each. 1 Pack of the Aluminum will be enough for both.  Send me your home address in a personal message and I will mail you the Sekisui Thermal Tape if you live in the US.

You can get the X31/X41 if it will fit in your chassis.  The bast place to mount it is the rear exhaust in the back of your case.  Is it worth it over the H55?  I personally don't think so.  The CAM software is a mess.  That being said, the Kraken AIOs have much longer hoses than the H55s, which may be necessary depending on the size of your case, where you are mounting them, and because you have 2 GPUs.  Could you take a picture of the inside of your computer so I can see the layout and give advice on where I would place the coolers.

This is the basic direction i want my cooler. 

This is how i imagine both will look when i install mine. ( not soo cramped though. )

What i imagine the distance might be like for my case.

What my case really looks like, showing the options for rad mounts etc.

[Faceman]

@riad

 

Ok, that gives me a better idea of how it will go.  I recommend you buy NZXT X31s because they are 120mm and have the longest tube length, which will come in handy.  You're going to have to remove a lot of the HDD/SSD bays in order to make room for both coolers and the tubing. 

 

Also, you are going to want them set to EXHAUST.  This is important, because the TDP of GPUs is around 220, they get HOT.  So the radiator absorbs that heat a lot more than a CPU with less than half that TDP.  You want that hot air blowing out of your case, not in.  So you will want to reverse the airflow so the intake is the top and back, and the exhaust is the front.

[riad]

@riad

 

Ok, that gives me a better idea of how it will go.  I recommend you buy NZXT X31s because they are 120mm and have the longest tube length, which will come in handy.  You're going to have to remove a lot of the HDD/SSD bays in order to make room for both coolers and the tubing. 

 

Also, you are going to want them set to EXHAUST.  This is important, because the TDP of GPUs is around 220, they get HOT.  So the radiator absorbs that heat a lot more than a CPU with less than half that TDP.  You want that hot air blowing out of your case, not in.  So you will want to reverse the airflow so the intake is the top and back, and the exhaust is the front.

Hmm, alright i see your logic in that but i don't see any x31's on amazon for sale and i was going to mount the H55's on the hard drive bays but then hot air would basically be circulating in my case, i might have to change my h100i to an exhaust rather than an intake right? Also about your kind offer on the thermal adhesive, i live in the caribbean so shipping to me will be useless I do have a skybox type service in miami so that's how i get my stuff from amazon, i'll try to keep looking for good adhesive, thanks though

[Faceman]

Hmm, alright i see your logic in that but i don't see any x31's on amazon for sale and i was going to mount the H55's on the hard drive bays but then hot air would basically be circulating in my case, i might have to change my h100i to an exhaust rather than an intake right? Also about your kind offer on the thermal adhesive, i live in the caribbean so shipping to me will be useless I do have a skybox type service in miami so that's how i get my stuff from amazon, i'll try to keep looking for good adhesive, thanks though

Its an envelope.  Shipping can't be that bad.  I would rather you get this done right.  The thermal tape products I saw on Amazon were no good or too expensive.  Can you use Newegg?

 

You will have to send me a picture of your actual computer so I can better visualize where everything is and how it would go.  Its going to get cramped and complex with 3 AIOs in a case.  You can attach your AIOs onto the hard drive cages, but temperatures will be higher, not only your graphics card, but your CPU as well because hot air rises and it will rise into the H100i's radiator.

[riad]

Its an envelope.  Shipping can't be that bad.  I would rather you get this done right.  The thermal tape products I saw on Amazon were no good or too expensive.  Can you use Newegg?

 

You will have to send me a picture of your actual computer so I can better visualize where everything is and how it would go.  Its going to get cramped and complex with 3 AIOs in a case.  You can attach your AIOs onto the hard drive cages, but temperatures will be higher, not only your graphics card, but your CPU as well because hot air rises and it will rise into the H100i's radiator.

This is the only decent pic i have of the inside of my rig, the only other ideas i have would be to put 1 AIO in the rear exhaust spot and the other AIO in the bottom compartment as an intake