Canon 70D vs Panasonic GH3

[Guest]

I've narrowed it down for these two options in terms of what I'm looking for in my next DSLR. I'm currently using a T3, and the specs just don't cut it for my usage scenario. I need sharper image quality and FAR sharper video quality, as well as more features within the camera itself.

Here is basically what I'm doing atm, but I may move into other forms of photography/video work:

 

• Timelapsing (Using both still images and video)
• Long exposure shots (such as at nighttime)
•  Other kinds of video work (not sure what I'll get into)
• HDR
• Overall functional DSLR for everyday photography (so a zoom lens with a lot of zoom variance would be preferrable.)

I am leaning toward the 70D for these reasons:

 

• Lens compatibility - I don't have to sell all my lenses (I can keep my 50mm f1.8 )
• 18-135 lens gives me plenty of options in one lens (I hate switching between a 18-55 and a 75-300, for example)
• Continous autofocus in video mode (Big +1)
• HDR functionality
• More choices in terms of lenses in the future
• Familiar with Canon

 

But I am also interested in the GH3 for these reasons:

 

• Built in intervelometer (timelapsing device)
• Non-stop video recording until the card is full 
• Cheaper than the 70D (slightly)
• Smaller, lighter, and more portable

 

Keep in mind my interests may change in the future, but what do you think would be a better camera for my uses? I'm still leaning on the 70D a bit more for not having to sell my lenses, but what do you guys think?

Thanks.

[Flyguygamer]

70D. You gan get a decent  intervelometer for not much. 

[ZacDaMan72]

70D hands down.

[Ruostunut kokis]

Like all other suggestions have gone: 70D. Although even 70D's continuous AF while recording videos isn't that good, still better than some former Canon DSLRs.

 

And by the way: would you be able to get a new / second-hand 5D Mark II for the same price or less than 70Ds go as new? Just randomly came in mind.

[Guest]

 

And by the way: would you be able to get a new / second-hand 5D Mark II for the same price or less than 70Ds go as new? Just randomly came in mind.

 

I looked around at what was being offered in my area, but so far no luck I also find it hard to buy used from another city - you can't really try out the product until you've already bought it.

[Ruostunut kokis]

I looked around at what was being offered in my area, but so far no luck I also find it hard to buy used from another city - you can't really try out the product until you've already bought it.

Yeah... That's definitely an issue with second-hand stuff. Luckily while I buy nearly all of my stuff as used, scams are really rare in this country in general. Not sure about Canada though...

 

And more about 5D Mark II: even if it was as much as a 70D, you'd better off going for 70D, as it's a lot newer, you can use EF-S lenses too and not just EF lenses like with Full frame, video quality is much better (and even 5D Mark III lacks continuous AF, so if you need that, forget them) and it just has more features.

[Botasky]

If you do a lot of photo definitely go for 70D, but keep in mind that the video quality from 70D is not as half as good of video from GH3.

[bcb5000]

Canon 70d. If you want an intervalometer, go buy one of the cheap ones off amazon.

[MTROB]

I use the included canon software for time lapses, however it needs to be connected to a computer for it to work.  

[Guest]

I use the included canon software for time lapses, however it needs to be connected to a computer for it to work.  

 

Would you mind telling me more about this software? I'd be interested. (Maybe a link if you can)

[MTROB]

When I bought my 70D it came with a disk which  included a whole suite of software. The two I use from the suite are Digital Photo Professional, which I use to convert RAW photos to Jpg. The other is EOS Utility. It allows you download photos from the camera, or view them. However it also allows you to do remote shooting. When connected to the camera you can change the settings of the camera such as iso, aperture, and shutter speed. It can also be used as an intervalometer. You can set the time between shots, and how many shots you want to take. It can then either save the shots to the computer, the flashcard, or both. The downside of this is it has to be connected to a computer, but depending on the space on the computer, you can take your timelapse in RAW (Better for night timelapses) and not worry about filling the SD card.

 

Here is a tutorial on how to set it up.

http://timelapsenetwork.com/mini-tutorials/tutorial-how-to-create-a-time-lapse-using-canon-eos-utility/

 

If the timer icon cannot be pressed in the software, make sure you have flipped the switch for the screen viewing mode. (Will make sense on the camera or when reading the manual)

 

The other software I use is the Canon EOS app on the my phone. It connects to the camera wifi, and allows you to do remote shooting, however the pictures cannot be saved to the phone, and you cannot use this app as an intervalometer. Its only really good if you can't be beside the camera, or you are taking a macro, and don't want to have to touch the shutter. I primarily use it for downloading pictures from the camera to my phone.

 

I hope that makes sense, if you have any questions please ask.

 

By the way, I don't believe you can use the remote shooting with video, and video recording definitely does not work when wifi is enabled.

[Dw136]

I may be the minority but GH3. 

 

It sound like you're quite heavy into time lapse. 

The GH3 has a electronic shutter mode that will work for time lapse. It's silent and doesn't wear down the mechanical shutter. (I killed my D90 doing that)

 

If you're getting heavily into video the GH3 also has really nice codecs that grade well.

I have a buddy that shoots the GH3. His rig is a gorilla pod with one leg bent in front of him and two that wrap around his shoulder. I've use it and it is honestly one of the best solutions for long shoots. 

 

One of the other advantage is the GH3's sensor cropping. Instead of using the whole sensor you can tell the camera to just a 2mp portion in the center to effectively lengthen the focal range of your lens. 

Its really nice to just be able to briefly punch in for that tight shot then revert back. 

 

Headphone jack. I have no clue why Canon forgot to put one on the 70D. 

 

In addition the GH3 also has 1080 60p. Honestly you don't think you need/want it but once you have it the ability to conform footage to 0.5 speed (down to 30fps) or even 0.4 speed (down to 24fps) it is really neat. 

[MTROB]

They don't have a headphone jack because you would never use the onboard audio, for high quality sound that needed to be monitored. The 70D shutter is rated at 100,000 pictures, and by the time you take that many you will probably be ready for a new camera. While the cropping is a nice feature, the 70D does have it to, however it can only be used to focus the camera, and not to record footage.

 

1080p at 60FPS is nice, and does make shaky footage look smoother its not necessary unless you plan on having shaky footage.

 

The other thing to take into account, is Canon leneses are much more common, and if you ever got a camera that is not a canon, it would be much easier to find lens adapters for the canon lenses.

[Dw136]

 

They don't have a headphone jack because you would never use the onboard audio, for high quality sound that needed to be monitored. The 70D shutter is rated at 100,000 pictures, and by the time you take that many you will probably be ready for a new camera. While the cropping is a nice feature, the 70D does have it to, however it can only be used to focus the camera, and not to record footage.

 

1080p at 60FPS is nice, and does make shaky footage look smoother its not necessary unless you plan on having shaky footage. 

The electronic shutter mode isn't really about preserving your mechanical shutter. It's more about not having click-click-click-click going off constantly. In public any camera shutter draws attention to you and your camera. That being said, showing up with a tripod/slider tends to do that anyways... However, the click-click-click does wear on the nerves after a while.  

 

Running a Rode Shotgun Mic or a Lav mic into the camera body, then monitor it with headphones. Levels are good, but when you have to worry about focus, composition, and/or moving around (yourself or the camera) It's much easier just to listen to the audio to make sure there's enough gain or if there's too much, we do it naturally anyways.